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#1. Re: [E36M3] Driver's ed aftermath - from Bob Lenarcik
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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 13:40:17 -0700 From: "Bob Lenarcik" <lenarcik@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Driver's ed aftermath Martin, I get them at Import Connection: Import Connection, 25 S. Central Ave Campbell CA 95008 408-378-6008 They are just a small detour from my daily commute so I don't have to worry about shipping. - Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: <Carguymb@aol.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2002 7:29 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Driver's ed aftermath > Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 22:20:44 EDT > From: Carguymb@aol.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Driver's ed aftermath > > Bob, > > Where's the best place to get Brembos at this price? > > TIA, > > Martin Bullen > '95 M3 > '97 Z3 2.8
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Vinyl graphics adhesive removal - from Bob Vaughn
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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 14:06:23 -0700 From: Bob Vaughn <Bob_Vaughn@Telestream.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Vinyl graphics adhesive removal I find that Goof Off will take off stuff that Goo Gone won't. http://www.goof-off.com/ -- Bob >goo gone! > >http://www.magicamerican.com/googone.shtml > >i haven't yet found something this can't remove.
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#3. Re: How to remove old wax from black side trim?? - from Michael Kelley
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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 17:50:05 -0400 From: "Michael Kelley" <mkelley@nc.rr.com> Subject: Re: How to remove old wax from black side trim?? >Rich wrote: >I have tried peanut butter and "Magic Rub" erasers. Neither worked that great in my >opinion but I have yet to find something better. I have found something better and it really does work. The product is the "Gonzo Wonder Sponge" (no kidding !) and it can be had from arts/crafts stores like A.C. Moore or Michaels and I have also seen them in Lowes home improvement centers. It's a 3"x6"x1.5" brick of dense foam rubber. The cellular surface allows it to get into the texture of trim to remove the wax quite well and, unlike some erasers, it doesn't contain grit or abrasive so it wonn't mar the paint surfaces. I've also found that a good coat of vinyl protectant (I prefer Vinylex) on the trim before waxing keeps the wax from adhering to the trim in the first place. Mike 98M3C
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#4. WTB: OEM front struts - from Lee E. Piccione
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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 17:48:02 -0400 From: "Lee E. Piccione" <leepic@smart.net> Subject: WTB: OEM front struts This past week I put a set of triple-adjustable Motons on the car but the front struts do not come w/ the little treaded stud and brackets to hold the ABS wires and brake line. So I was thinking, instead of using zip-ties, if I were to cut the center section out of an OEM strut then cut it length-wise and use band clamps to hold the halves together it would work. My OEM struts are in pretty good shape so I'd rather not hack them up (just yet). Does any one have a set of trashed/shot front struts they would like to sell/donate ;-) to the experiment? Thanks, Lee '95 Violet
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#5. RE: [E36M3] How to remove old wax from black side trim?? - from Mel Silva
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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 17:54:10 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] How to remove old wax from black side trim?? You too?! For those that I responded to privately, excuse the double posting. I just never thought I would get so many questions about this one statement. Tide and bleach, of course. Use a toothbrush to scrub the gunk out. The problem is that you don't want to apply laundry detergent and bleach to your cars finish so the trim must be removed to do this. It does work however. Bleach just seems to break down the wax, I would imagine ammonia works as well since it is supposed to remove wax, but I haven't tried that. I found the bleach thing out by accident since that Is what I have always used to clean up grease spots on the driveway. I had a very nice wax applicator that "somebody" left on the bench and it had dried to a hard plasticy disc. I tried rinsing it with water and dish soap, nothing. Since I figured it was ruined anyway I sprayed it with some of the mixture I had in a spray bottle. Took the old hard wax right out. I can't explain it, it just worked. Hope this helps, Mel -----Original Message----- From: Dorffer, Rich [mailto:RDORFFER@CleIndians.com] Sent: Friday, October 11, 2002 8:10 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] How to remove old wax from black side trim?? Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 09:07:18 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: [E36M3] How to remove old wax from black side trim?? Mel says > > I have heard that "Magic Rub" brand erasers work, but for me the best answer > was to remove the trim, and strip the trim of all wax and apply "black > magic". Made the trim look brand new (again). Stripped the wax with what? I have tried peanut butter and "Magic Rub" erasers. Neither worked that great in my opinion but I have yet to find something better. On my '95 M3, I sold the pebbled textured trim for the bumpers and bought the smooth, pre 04/05 trim pieces which are smooth instead of textured. I now avoid getting wax on any rubber/plastic pieces (although I understand this doesn't help you since someone else waxed the car). Best regards, Rich 95 M3 90 325is ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#6. RE: turning rotors - from BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)
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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 15:54:43 -0700 From: "BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)" <bill_boom@hp.com> Subject: RE: turning rotors > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dave Kelley" <d.kelley@usa.net> > > > ... I can't see any scientific reason that turning > > them would be a problems as long as you are above minimum > > thickness and I have a degree in Metallurgical Engineering! > > From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] As the Rotor Turns.... > > M rotors are balanced which is part of the reason why, also > the thinner > the rotor the less heat capacity it has. I guess I can understand the balance thing (although I always thought all rotors were balanced from the factory.) But re. the less heat capacity as it gets thinner: that's true whether the rotor is turned or wears down on its own - so it doesn't explain why BMW says it's safe to run a rotor as long as it is not below minimum thickness, but unsafe to run a rotor that's been turned but is still not below minimum thickness. Incidentally, I've had my Euro rotors turned for years by a machine shop without any problems. The shop owner would just check them with a caliper, read the minimum thickness stamped on the rotor, and turn them if there was enough metal left. But when I brought my first set of stock rotors in, he had to look up the min thickness in a book since it's not stamped on the rotor. In doing so he found the notation that these rotors were not to be turned. He made me sign a statement saying these were "for off-road use only" before he would turn them. - Bill
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#7. m3 Parts for $ale or trade - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 00:20:03 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: m3 Parts for $ale or trade >> kinda hard to see how one guys piece of pipe with a cone filter is better than another given all other parameters are the same<< I really wasnt going to chime in on this one, because I was plenty active years ago when the topic was really hot, and emotional. But I had to just comment briefly on the above comment. If I recall, and some of you guys could back me up, all the other parameters Arent equal. I recall Jim making a big technical detail about how the filter is actually connected to the HFM. I believe his kit has a hard molded fitting with clamps, exactly how its done with the stock air box, vs all the other kits which use silicone and hose clamp fittings. He said that testing showed that the reason the stock air box has this kind of hard molded fitting with clamps is so that its positioned EXACTLY in front of the center of the HFM screen, at a certain exact prescribed distance. Both the centering and the distance, he said, are crucial for accurate metering. None of the other kits pay this kind of attention to this one detail. So if you choose to believe what Jim's saying, none of the others measure up in this regard. Of course the other main difference is the material of the cone itself, but Im not going to make a big issue of that here...Personally, Im using a K&N cone, and I have no problem with K&N at all. To each his own on this one, but I have a feeling there may be something to this centering and distance idea. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#8. Cleaning out Garage - from Daniel
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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 21:45:20 -0700 (PDT) From: Daniel <m3_driver@yahoo.com> Subject: Cleaning out Garage If you are in Houston Texas and want this stuff come by and get it...FREE Mahle oil filter (E36M3) Mahle air filter (E36M3) Mahle Fuel Filter (E36M3) All new sitting in garage I also have 4 wheels spacers (3mm universal) lightly used once... __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More http://faith.yahoo.com
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Ballast for Alignment - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 10:45:23 -0400 From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Ballast for Alignment In a message dated 10/10/2002 8:50:00 AM Eastern Standard Time, the_buch@telus.net writes: > Since I usually (95% of the time) have just me on board with > no luggage, why not just ballast it for me, or am I missing > something in > the assumptions used by the alignment folks? Yep, did just that last week. Had them put 180lbs. ballast in driver seat, spare tire in place, and half tank of gas. Now we'll see what happens to tire wear. Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe #13 BSP
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#10. Clutch Life Data - from The Buch
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Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 09:48:33 -0700 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Clutch Life Data Further to my original message (attached), I only received three responses, and therefore would not consider the data representative. Clutch life between the three of you varied widely from 44K to 150K, with the lower end on a car with 20 autocrosses a year, and the higher end representing spirited street use. Chris, I think it was you who noted your clutch seems to be performing much better with an aluminum flywheel. My own experience at 60K is the clutch is starting to feel a little less positive than I like. It just seems to engage fully at a higher point, and I am noticing either a tiny bit of 'notchiness' or slippage at final take-up (however, I am also exploring other explanations of this symptom such as the 'guibo'). My inclination is to run the clutch until it's toast, and then go to the LTW flywheel and carbon-kevlar clutch combination offered by Rogue. I am hoping that by the time I am ready, someone on the list has proven up their claims that this combination virtually eliminates the chatter problems with the lighter flywheel. Thanks for your input, Doug <snip> I am interested in knowing what to expect for a duty cycle on the clutch in our cars. If anyone who has had to replace a clutch sends me the mileage(s) and other details, I will compile the data and post the distribution. Regards, Doug