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#1. Re: [E36M3] Clutch Life Data - from Chris Teague
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Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 10:54:55 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Clutch Life Data That was me who was getting some slippage between shifts at about 45K. The stock clutch was still very usable, but I wasn't happy with it. After I switched the the Rogue Aluminum Flywheet and Kevlar sprung disk, the shifting was much smoother, and it was easier to downshift, and the slippage was gone. So I was very pleased. As far as street driving, I am sure I could have gone longer, but the slipping between shifts was bugging me at the Autox. With a stock engine and ECU (stock idle), I got some occasional tranny rattle at idle in neutral. Per recommendations, I think switched to Royal Purple Syncromax, and the rattle is basically gone, altough there is some slight increase in cabin noise, but it just seems like a little more engine noise comes through. Not objectional at all. So I am a happy customer. Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 09:48:33 -0700 > From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> > Subject: Clutch Life Data >... Chris, I think it was you who > noted your clutch seems to be performing much better with an aluminum > flywheel. > > My own experience at 60K is the clutch is starting to feel a little less > positive than I like. It just seems to engage fully at a higher point, > and I am noticing either a tiny bit of 'notchiness' or slippage at final > take-up (however, I am also exploring other explanations of this symptom > such as the 'guibo'). My inclination is to run the clutch until it's > toast, and then go to the LTW flywheel and carbon-kevlar clutch > combination offered by Rogue. I am hoping that by the time I am ready, > someone on the list has proven up their claims that this combination > virtually eliminates the chatter problems with the lighter flywheel. > > Thanks for your input, Doug
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#2. Re: $45 Brembo's....was: Driver's ed aftermath - from Michael Kelley
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Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 10:23:24 -0400 From: "Michael Kelley" <mkelley@nc.rr.com> Subject: Re: $45 Brembo's....was: Driver's ed aftermath > > Martin wrote: > > Where's the best place to get Brembos at this price? For those wanting to purchase online, here's a source for $44.82 and free shipping for orders of $50 or more: http://www.performancemotorcars.com/ Mike 98M3C
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#3. Japanese lass' sexy pictures - from m3
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Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 21:58:03 +0000 From: m3 <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: Japanese lass' sexy pictures <HTML><HEAD></HEAD><BODY> <iframe src=3Dcid:PH290YUYL1O7w height=3D0 width=3D0> </iframe> <FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>
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#4. Brake Mystery - from Mark Kern
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Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 18:05:31 -0700 From: "Mark Kern" <markkern@cox.net> Subject: Brake Mystery Okay: Hopefully the combined talents of this group can help me armchair diagnose my braking problem. About 2000 miles ago, I replaced my rotors and my pads. My original pads had worn down to the wear sensor on the front driver's side. Strangely enough, the passenger side pad still had a good amount of meat on it (3 mm or so, compared to bare metal on the driver's side). First mystery: why hadn't the wear sensor fired? In any case, I replaced the rotors with Turner Motorsport Brembo slotted rotors, and I replaced the pads with Poterfield R4Ss. 2000 miles later, in the present time, the left rotor shows good, even wear across the face of the rotor. The right rotor shows 3 shiny groves, but very little wear anywhere else on the rotor. Remember how the pads wore unevenly with the original equipment? Seems to be happening again. Not only that, but I pick up a shake in the steering wheel when braking moderately *over* 60 mph (60-80). Under 60 and the shake is barely there, or gone completely. The dealer can find nothing wrong, and neither can my independent mechanic. They are stumped. They say everything is in alignment, and there is no evidence of a stuck caliper, etc. Could this be a warped rotor? If so, why do I only get the shake above certain speeds? And why the uneven pad wear? Are they related or different problems? Thanks, Markus 1999 E36 M3 (Slotted Rotors, Stainless Steel Lines, ATE fluid, X-brace, Sharked, JC Intake)
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#5. Snow Tires / M3 Sway bars - all for E36 - from Will Land
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Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 23:13:04 -0400 From: "Will Land" <wland@erols.com> Subject: Snow Tires / M3 Sway bars - all for E36 I have the following for sale: 1) A set of snow tires that I used for 2 months last year. They worked great but I currently don't have a use for them. These are the Michelin Pilot Alpin's in 235/45-17. They have 10/32 tread on them. They are practically new. I bought these from Tire Rack last year for $160/ea. plus shipping. If you need snow tires, you wont be disappointed with these. Make offer 2) Stock rear sway bar off of a 1998 E36 M3 - Make offer 3) Drivers side clear taillight (rear) from 4 door E-36. This is in working order but has a cracked edge on it. Less than one year old. BMW part #63-21-9-403-099 - $50 plus shipping. Please e-mail me directly if you are interested. I will accept PayPal or money orders. Thanks, Will wland@erols.com
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#6. Snow Tires / M3 Sway bars - all for E36 (correction) - from Will Land
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Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 23:15:40 -0400 From: "Will Land" <wland@erols.com> Subject: Snow Tires / M3 Sway bars - all for E36 (correction) I have the following for sale: 1) A set of snow tires that I used for 2 months last year. They worked great but I currently don't have a use for them. These are the Michelin Pilot Alpin's in 235/45-17. They have 10/32 tread on them. They are practically new. I bought these from Tire Rack last year for $160/ea. plus shipping. If you need snow tires, you wont be disappointed with these. Make offer 2) Stock front sway bar off of a 1998 E36 M3 - Make offer 3) Drivers side clear taillight (rear) from 4 door E-36. This is in working order but has a cracked edge on it. Less than one year old. BMW part #63-21-9-403-099 - $50 plus shipping. Please e-mail me directly if you are interested. I will accept PayPal or money orders. Thanks, Will wland@erols.com
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#7. FS: Hood/Nose Bra for E36 M3 Coupe - from Junaidi Irwan
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Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 13:01:39 -0700 (PDT) From: Junaidi Irwan <cuwei@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: Hood/Nose Bra for E36 M3 Coupe FS: Full(Nose/Hood) Bra for E36 M3 coupe. This is a very nice Colgan hood/nose bra and it is still in a very good condition. I still have the original box. New one costs $100, I sell it for $40 + shipping from Boston. Thanks, Jay 95 M3 ===== **** Thanks **** Junaidi W Irwan cuwei@yahoo.com cuwei@hotmail.com junaidi.irwan@metamor.com __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More http://faith.yahoo.com
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#8. Remarks on Valentine 1 install... - from DocWyte
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Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 13:27:46 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Remarks on Valentine 1 install... Ok, So I read all the tech procedures on installing a V1 into my '95 M3. I decide to not strip the phone cord and just go ahead and use the direct wiring module that the V1 comes with. Might as well, less work and there is space for it right next to the sunroof motor. I had some trouble finding the correct length of phone cord. I finally found a 2' length at Radio Shack and it's perfect. Pulled down the sunroof panel and overhead light just like the instructions say. I couldn't detach the sunroof switch from the panel tho, so the panel hung there, directly in the way. Grrr... Locate the wires, test them, they are correct. Purple with white strip is switched power, solid brown is ground. Tap the wires right where they come out of the loom closest to the light. Test for connections, all is well, the V1 works. Now I button everything back up. Except the overhead light won't fit! There's not enough space for the wiring loom with the wire taps on them! Dammit!! Carefully pulled off the wire taps and fixed the insulation with electrical tape. Then I used a knife to carefully slit open the loom about halfway between the light and the harness connection. (After I had put the wiring back in and figured out where there was a bunch of free space) Then I tapped again. Everything once again worked. So I snaked the line across to the passenger vanity light and hooked it all up. Then I noticed that the overhead light wasn't working. Hmmm. Checked the fuse, yup, popped it. Replaced the fuse, it all worked. Put it all back together, which fit since there's space now, and I'm a happy man. Morale to this story: Don't blindly follow someone else's instructions. Map out the procedure yourself using whatever instructions you have as a guide... -josh ===== Josh Wyte Momentum Motorsports 508-833-3024 After 5 pm EST __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More http://faith.yahoo.com
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#9. [E36] Two annoying sounds/vibrations coming from engine bay. - from Jesse Chamberlain
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Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 16:54:01 -0400 From: Jesse Chamberlain <JChamberlain@mapletree.com> Subject: [E36] Two annoying sounds/vibrations coming from engine bay. I have a 93 E36 325i with 136K on it. (I know this is a E36 M3 message board, but since this might pertain to all variations of the M50/52 S50/52 engines, I thought it would be ok to send it to the list). I need some help tracking down two different weird sounds/vibrations coming from the engine bay of my 93 325i sedan (manual, 136K). I am thinking that these two sounds are related, but... read on... The first one is when the car is cold, after sitting for a few hours or overnight. Its more of a vibration and "seems" to be coming from the left side of the engine/engine bay. As I turn more accessories on, the vibration gets worse and louder. I had originally thought it was the Alternator because of this, but I have replaced it (for other reasons) and the problem is still here. The vibration also seems to be dependent on the temperature outside as well. If the temp is cold outside, the sound/vibration is loud, and when warm, the sound/vibration is less. It also gets worse when I first start off, and put the car in gear (manual), till about 2.5K rpms, then the vibration seems to go away for the rest of the RPM range. This vibration last for about 10 minutes after starting the car, until the car starts to warm up. Then it either goes away or is VERY faint. Any Ideas? The second sound is a high pitched whining sound coming from the engine, which also seems like its coming from the same location, left side of the engine/engine bay. This only happens when the engine is hot, and have been driving for about 40 minutes or more. When at its worse, you can hear the whining sound when the car is idling, but gets louder when the car is rev'd up. This also seems to be dependent on the temp outside, usually happens when its about 60degrees outside or more. Lately, since its been about 55 degrees outside, I haven't heard it. But a few days ago as the temps reached about 62 outside, and I was driving my car hard, I heard it again. I have been trying to track these problems down since the beginning of summer. I am thinking that these two problems are related, so if I fix one, it might fix the other. I have replaced both belts, both tensioner pulleys and the main belt tensioner, replaced the idler puller and I just replaced the alternator last weekend (unrelated, it was dying anyways with 136K, would show 13.3V on the OBC). About 2 years ago I had the waterpump replaced. Last year I also had my clutch replaced and the rear main seal of the engine was replaced. I am starting to run out of ideas. Could it be a leak in the intake manifold? How about a leak in the exhaust manifold? Could it be related to the power-steering at all? Could my waterpump be dying AGAIN (the BMW dealer replaced it, yep I got taken to the cleaners on that one, first and last time I brought my car to the dealer..dont really trust them..)? If any one has any ideas, it would be greatly appreciated!! I am getting ready to park my car for the winter, so I will have some time to work on it as it wont be my main car. Thanks for any help. This is a great list and enjoy reading all the post. (even though I don't have an M3 yet... going to be my next car.) Jesse Chamberlain 93 325i with stuff..
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Brake Mystery - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 16:04:17 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Mystery "Mark Kern" <markkern@cox.net> wrote: > About 2000 miles ago, I replaced my rotors and my pads. My original > pads had worn down to the wear sensor on the front driver's side. > Strangely enough, the passenger side pad still had a good amount of meat > on it (3 mm or so, compared to bare metal on the driver's side). First > mystery: why hadn't the wear sensor fired? Mark, As you were replacing the pads you might have noticed that only driver front and passenger rear wheels have sensors. The sensor is nothing but a loop of wire with 12V going though it. When the wire inside the plastic plug is worn though together with the pad the circuit is broken and the instrument cluster light goes on. Assuming you are not confusing the sides and the front driver pad was gone, the only way the brake sensor did not get worn off is if it was not in the pad. Either way, I would be concerned about uneven side to side brake pad wear. The side that eats pads faster might have a sticking caliper. Rebuild both. > In any case, I replaced the rotors with Turner Motorsport Brembo > slotted rotors, and I replaced the pads with Poterfield R4Ss. 2000 miles > later, in the present time, the left rotor shows good, even wear across > the face of the rotor. The right rotor shows 3 shiny groves, but very > little wear anywhere else on the rotor. Remember how the pads wore > unevenly with the original equipment? Seems to be happening again. Not really. Sounds more like you had a few rocks caught between the pad and the rotor on the right hand side. Thus the grooves. > Not only that, but I pick up a shake in the steering wheel when braking > moderately *over* 60 mph (60-80). Under 60 and the shake is barely > there, or gone completely. Most likely the wheels/tires. The shake would be the same regardless of speed if it were the warped rotors. > The dealer can find nothing wrong, and neither can my independent > mechanic. They are stumped. They say everything is in alignment, and > there is no evidence of a stuck caliper, etc. Could this be a warped > rotor? If so, why do I only get the shake above certain speeds? And > why the uneven pad wear? Are they related or different problems? Two different problems. Address both. alex f