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#1. I've found my marbles - from Steve Klein
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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 10:11:02 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: I've found my marbles Hello, Gruppe- In the process of elimination, I'm eying (earing) the upper chain tensioner for the source of a loud rattle on the front of the valve cover, right next to the VANOS unit. When blipping the throttle from the engine compartment, as the revs drop and the chain/valves are unloaded, I get a nice, loud klacking that I can feel if I put my hand on the cover. I just had the VANOS replaced, but as Chester pointed out, they probably didn't replace the sprocket/gear but just the solenoid and plunger unit (my shiny desk art). So my questions: Where is a good source for the upper, secondary chain tensioner (already replaced the lower) and are there any caveats or things to watch for while replacing it that aren't covered in the Bentley? While I'm at it and the topic is current, what about replacing the guibo, and how is it pronounced? Any writeups available? I've been feeling a touch of slack in the driveline as well. Thanks all- Steve
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#2. Re: Cracked rear shock tower - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 10:12:04 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Cracked rear shock tower on 10/15/02 9:34 AM, "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> wrote: > Well, I think I finally found out where that suspension clunk was coming > from....One of the bolts on the passengers side shock > ripped off a chunk of the body. > Looked on the archives for the Z3 plates part numbers. Has anyone tried > welding these on over the cracked or damaged holes? While that probably wouldn't hurt, I don't think it's an optimal solution. As long as you're having someone weld in extra metal, it might be better to go for a larger piece with more weld and reinforcing area. The Z3 plates are thick and strong but not very large. Depending on how damaged or corroded the shock tower metal is, it may well be necessary to weld in replacement tower tops first. This isn't something you want to have to revisit. BMW lists these as: Support for shock absorber left 41 14 8 169 027 Support for shock absorber right 41 14 8 169 028 and they'll be shown in any body shop's repair book. I assume you're going to have both sides done. > And I'm assuming that the E46 RSM are direct replacements. Yes. Neil 96 M3
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#3. cracked rear shock tower - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 11:27:55 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: cracked rear shock tower As chester said, these are the 2 plates which get welded in: 41 14 8 169 027 - left 41 14 8 169 028 - right My dealer said theyve had up to a dozen E36s develop the cracked rear towers, and theyve worked it out with their contract body shop that each side gets two of the plates, one below and one above, effectively sandwiching the shock tower. This must be an effective way to fix it, as they say none have come back. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#4. Re: Review of Koni's and TC Kline RSM's - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 10:26:33 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Review of Koni's and TC Kline RSM's on 10/15/02 9:34 AM, DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> wrote: > I've had the koni's on my '95 M3 for a few days now. > I went with the stock springs and TC Kline rear shock > mounts, as well as the "new" externally adjustable > rear shocks. No more dropping the shocks out to > adjust them!! How much were the SA/externally adjustable rear shocks? > The rear shocks are pretty cool, but you have to drop > the rear speakers out to get at the top of the shock > to adjust it. Still easier than pulling the shock out > completely, but I was hoping to have access tot he top > of the shock from the side of the shock tower. > Unfortunately there isn't enough room to fit the knob > in there that way. Couldn't you cut an access hole in the top of the fuzzy trunk liner right over the shocks and directly under the speakers? There's maybe 2" of clearance under my H-K rear speaker housings, and the top of my "normal" Koni SA shock is maybe 1" under that. Looks as if it should be possible unless the adjuster knob is unusually bulky. You could make a clean 3" diameter hole with a hole saw, then use any BMW 75 mm diameter front strut tower cap (flat Z8 or domed E34) to cover the access when not in use. Neil 96 M3
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#5. Re: [E36M3] I've found my marbles - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 08:30:27 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] I've found my marbles In order to replace the upper tensioner, you have to remove the head cover. If you're going that far, it might be worthwhile to replace the VANOS sprocket too :) Chester --- Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> wrote: > didn't replace the sprocket/gear but just the solenoid and plunger unit (my > shiny desk art). So my questions: Where is a good source for the upper, > secondary chain tensioner (already replaced the lower) and are there any > caveats or > things to watch for while replacing it that aren't covered in the Bentley? ===== __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More http://faith.yahoo.com
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#6. Re: cracked rear shock tower - from Jonathan Evans
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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 11:37:32 -0400 From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: cracked rear shock tower Interesting. 2 plates per side. Has anyone actually seen or had this done? I'll order 2 of each side along with 4 of the z3 plates, hand them to my mechanic and see what he can do, . I'm guessing he's going to need longer bolts. Just heard back and the stock RSM's are healthy and happy. Rear shocks are completely shot though. My choices are stock BOGE or Bilsteins. I've heard cautions about putting gas (blistering) and hydraulic (stock BOGE) shocks mixed on the same vehicle. Am I dreaming? Do I even have the type of shocks correct? $70 stock rear shocks are mighty tempting considering the repair cost for the rest... Thanks guys and gals, Jonathan ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> To: <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> Cc: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2002 11:27 AM Subject: cracked rear shock tower > As chester said, these are the 2 plates which get welded in: > > 41 14 8 169 027 - left > 41 14 8 169 028 - right > > My dealer said theyve had up to a dozen E36s develop the cracked rear > towers, and theyve worked it out with their contract body shop that each > side gets two of the plates, one below and one above, effectively > sandwiching the shock tower. This must be an effective way to fix it, as > they say none have come back. > > Paul Elliott > --------------------------------------------------------- > '99 White M3; 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 > psi; AA Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan > Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio >
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#7. Re: I've found my marbles - from Steve Klein
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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 10:41:29 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: I've found my marbles That's a bit more of a sticy wicket, aye wot? Aren't you working on a jig or tool for doing just that? I've no problem pulling the head cover, but I don't want to risk bungling up the cams, timing or chains. Nervousness of the unknown, I guess, since I haven't pulled the head cover before. I've done a fair amount of cam work (swapping shims on the tappets and reinstalling cams and journals) on my 2000 ZX-9, but that's a glorified 4-cyl. lawnmower engine and not my main source of transport. ;?P -Jasper 'Pee Wee' Cat's Eye, Esq. Chester Wong wrote: > In order to replace the upper tensioner, you have to remove the head cover. If > you're going that far, it might be worthwhile to replace the VANOS sprocket too > :) > > Chester
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#8. Re: cracked rear shock tower - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 11:49:20 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: cracked rear shock tower >>> Interesting. 2 plates per side. Has anyone actually seen or had this done?<< Absolutely. As I said, this is the fix my dealer and their body shop have agreed on as being the most effective fix for the problem, which theyve taken care of in this way about a dozen times. Its what they used on mine, and Ive seen nothing to dispute this. Its been great since they implemented it a few months ago. In my case, the dealer felt the Z3 plates would have been superfluous added to the welded braces. > I'll order 2 of each side along with 4 of the z3 plates Why would you want 4 Z3 plates?? As I said, I dont think youll need any once the two supports are welded into each tower. But if you want to persist and use them anyway, I cant see the harm. But why would you use 4? The doubling up I was referring to only applied to the welded in reinforcement plates, as one gets welded beneath the tower and one gets welded on top, sandwiching the existing shock tower top . Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> To: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Cc: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2002 11:37 AM Subject: Re: cracked rear shock tower > Interesting. 2 plates per side. Has anyone actually seen or had this done? > > I'll order 2 of each side along with 4 of the z3 plates, hand them to my > mechanic and see what he can do, . I'm guessing he's going to need longer > bolts. > > Just heard back and the stock RSM's are healthy and happy. Rear shocks are > completely shot though. My choices are stock BOGE or Bilsteins. I've heard > cautions about putting gas (blistering) and hydraulic (stock BOGE) shocks > mixed on the same vehicle. Am I dreaming? Do I even have the type of > shocks correct? $70 stock rear shocks are mighty tempting considering the > repair cost for the rest... > > Thanks guys and gals, > Jonathan > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> > To: <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> > Cc: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2002 11:27 AM > Subject: cracked rear shock tower > > > > As chester said, these are the 2 plates which get welded in: > > > > 41 14 8 169 027 - left > > 41 14 8 169 028 - right > > > > My dealer said theyve had up to a dozen E36s develop the cracked rear > > towers, and theyve worked it out with their contract body shop that each > > side gets two of the plates, one below and one above, effectively > > sandwiching the shock tower. This must be an effective way to fix it, as > > they say none have come back. > > > > Paul Elliott > > --------------------------------------------------------- > > '99 White M3; 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: > 11 > > psi; AA Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan > > Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, > JLAudio > > >
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#9. OT: E46 M3 ? - from David Morad
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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 10:53:23 -0500 From: "David Morad" <Dogdave@msn.com> Subject: OT: E46 M3 ? I am interested in an E46 and would like to ask a few questions to someone who has ordered one. Mainly what options were worth it. Please email me privately. Thanks David
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#10. Drop in RPM - from Venkata Yella
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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 09:33:18 -0700 (PDT) From: Venkata Yella <v_yella@yahoo.com> Subject: Drop in RPM Folks, My 99 M3 seems to have an intermittent problem. When I let go of the gas, engine RPM drops to around 250-300 RPM and then comes back to idle RPM(~650) . This happens once in a while. Even if the throttle is blipped to only 800-1000 RPM and released, the RPM drops to 250 and comes back to idle RPM. Has anyone seen this? Whats the problem? By the way, I use Shell gas. Thanks in Advance. 99 M3/2 42000 miles ===== -Yella v_yella@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More http://faith.yahoo.com