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#1. Re[2]: [E36M3] Koni SA settings and adjustments - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 11:56:41 -0400 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re[2]: [E36M3] Koni SA settings and adjustments I'll second Chester's recommendation. My M3 is essentially a street car that sees the occasional autocross. The Koni's are perfect for that. Firm things up just a bit, then once they're dialed in right, don't touch 'em. Andrej > For the street, I think you should be leaning towards just Konis and keeping > the stock springs. > Chester > --- "john_stoj@excite.com" <john_stoj@excite.com> wrote: >> All this talk of Koni's and adjustments has got me thinking. I'll probably >> need new shocks/struts soon, but I basically just drive my M3 on the street. >> As a result, I can't imagine I'd ever want to adjust the settings. What I'd >> like is something that's set "right" the first time and I can just leave it. >> I'd like the ride to be a little less soft than stock. Does that lead me to >> the bilstein/H&R setup?
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Re: JC euro hfm intake install story - from Mel Silva
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Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 10:59:14 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: JC euro hfm intake install story Sounds like a new product for Griots. Install 9v battery, press button, walah! Where's Ron Popeal when you need him? -----Original Message----- From: Ron Buchalski [mailto:rbuchals@hotmail.com] Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2002 1:55 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Re: JC euro hfm intake install story Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 02:50:31 -0400 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: JC euro hfm intake install story That would be...an electromagnet! A coil of wire around an iron core, and a battery to provide the electricity. So, lower it in place, turn on the power, and pick up the stray fastener. Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata >Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 23:55:01 -0400 >From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> >Subject: JC euro hfm intake install story > > >>Magnet on a stick to the >rescue. If you don't have one of these, go out and >buy one NOW!<< > >No kidding! I cant even tell you how many times Ive dropped an important >screw, bolt, bracket, etc, and had to retreive with one of these extendable >magnets. Only dont you guys hate it when it wants to stick to every damn >thing on the sides as youre lowering it to try and fish out your part? I >dont know if its Griots, but somebody offers these things with the magnet >protected until you mean to use it, and then you lower it or something >beyond the protection for it to do its busines only where you want. >Sometimes, doesnt that sound like just the ticket?! > > >Paul Elliott _________________________________________________________________ Get a speedy connection with MSN Broadband. Join now! http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/freeactivation.asp ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Winter Tires - from Zack Steinkamp
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Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 10:02:12 -0700 (PDT) From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Winter Tires --- Carey Probst <hcprobst@nycap.rr.com> wrote: > Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 15:18:31 -0400 > From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@nycap.rr.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Winter Tires > > Thanks for the summary and the link but you forgot > to mention that the site > is in GERMAN. have no fear -- go here: http://babelfish.altavista.com//urltrurl?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.auto.t-online.de%2FAU%2FDE%2Fde%2Fhomepage.jhtml%3Fnavi_param%3Dtest_technik%26news_newsart%3Dautotests%26area_navigation%3Dweitere_tests%26report%3Dbericht%26repId%3D%252FAU%252FDE%252Fde%252Fcontentrepositories%252FDE_de_Test_Technik_otherTestReportRepositoryXML%252FXML%252FTestTechnik511.xml&lp=de_en&tt=url then push the lower "translate" button. if that doesn't work, paste the original url into the "url" box at http://babelfish.altavista.com/ and pick "German -> English". it's usually good at the translation, and very funny at times. zs
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#4. Re: [E36M3] BMW Interior Advice - from David Ripton
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Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 17:19:32 -0400 From: David Ripton <dripton@ripton.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] BMW Interior Advice Darling@ludo.dreamhost.com wrote: > Ok, so my 8-year old shift knob on my 95 M3 is faded and bleached out. Any > recommendations out there for a replacement? I'm installing the E-46 > aluminum pedal set soon, so should I go with an aluminum shift knob and > handbrake? Anyone done this with the black leather interior? Any other > recommendations? Aluminum UUC Rob Knob review: Very easy install. But recheck the tightness after a couple of weeks. Looks nice IMO, though somewhat out of place in an otherwise not-very-metallic E36 interior. Maybe with the matching pedals and brake lever it'll look more integrated. Hell if I know; ask Martha Stewart. (But if she recommends anything in the doily group, run.) The big drawback of metal shift knobs is that they get *really* hot in the summer if you park in the sun. (Also really cold in the winter if you park north of Florida.) The good part is that this should improve your shifting speed, and will quickly break that bad habit of resting your hand on the shift lever between shifts. The bad part is that it freakin' hurts. (First gear, ow! Second gear, ow! Third gear, nah, I'll just wind it up in second.) Keep a glove handy. IMO plastic and leather knobs are much more practical because of the temperature issue, though uglier. -- David Ripton dripton@ripton.net
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#5. [OT] Just when you thought you'd seen it all ... - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 08:28:11 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: [OT] Just when you thought you'd seen it all ... You can now get a PC mobo with a tube-based 5.1 amp on it ... see http://www.tomshardware.com , "The First Hammer Board Hits the THG Lab" article ... Too funny! I guess if you processor dissipates tons of power, what's an extra couple of Watts? And yes, I do have a tube preamp (Melos) :-p -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#6. A pool of fluid: Help! - from Steve Klein
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Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 10:56:16 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: A pool of fluid: Help! Ack! This morning, when I went to start M, the clutch pedal dropped straight to the floor, almost as fast as my stomach sank. I put the car in netural and started the engine in my state of utter confusion and denial, but the pedal has no pressure what soever. The brakes are fine (aside from a very slow drop when I try to hold pressure on them, telling me that a new master cyl. is soon in order.) and an inspection of the ground confirmed that there is a spot of about 3-4 tablespoons of fluid. Unfortunately, it is in a friend's driveway. He has driven me home to get my tools and make this post, but I have a feeling that getting under and inspecting will reveal little. Bentley doesn't show any detachable couplings between the master and slave, but I'm holding out hope that it is somewhere in the line connecting them, and that it is something I can fix without having to arrange a tow to the shop. If anyone can offer any insight, advice or help, I would be greatly appreciative. Thanks in advance, Steve (not good enough to drive without a clutch)
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#7. Re: [E36M3] A pool of fluid: Help! - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 09:14:11 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] A pool of fluid: Help! Re: > an inspection >of the ground confirmed that there is a spot of about 3-4 >tablespoons of fluid. If it's that little fluid, I doubt anything has failed catastrophically. More likely, it was cold outside and that caused a seal in the clutch slave cylinder to fail to do its job ... and now you have (a lot of) air in the system. Try this -- with the driver door open and you kneeling just outside the car, try "pumping" the clutch pedal back and forth with your hand. If no more fluid pours out, and there is sufficient fluid in the reservoir, then you may be able to build up pressure after many pumps (20-100). Clutch slave cylinders are self-bleeding, so this just may work. If it still is dumping fluid, then you'll need a tow ... Regards, -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#8. Peake Reset Tool Codes - from Scott Blazey
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Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 11:49:08 -0500 From: Scott Blazey <edpm3@earthlink.net> Subject: Peake Reset Tool Codes Anybody have a Peake Research reset tool code book? I can't find mine and I need to know what a fault code 49 means. Thanks, --Scott
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#9. Re: A pool of fluid: Help! - from Steve Klein
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Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 12:25:50 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: A pool of fluid: Help! Hello, Andrew- Thank you for your reply. There was frost on the car this morning when I went to start it, so temp could definitely be a factor. I did what you suggested, and no more fluid came out. After about 100 pumps or so, the pedal now returns to the up position on its own, and it feels like some pressure has built up. I can also hear a wet 'sucking' sound when I pump. I'm going to be jacking the front end shortly and crawling under to look more closely at the area, and see exactly where the fluid came from. Would it most likely have come from the bleed screw or somewhere else on the slave cyl? Is replacement and pressure bleeding the only proper solution for a situation such as this? Again, thank you very much for your response. It has taken me from panic to confused determination. Steve "Andrew E. Kalman" wrote: > Re: > > an inspection > >of the ground confirmed that there is a spot of about 3-4 > >tablespoons of fluid. > > If it's that little fluid, I doubt anything has failed > catastrophically. More likely, it was cold outside and that caused a > seal in the clutch slave cylinder to fail to do its job ... and now > you have (a lot of) air in the system. > > Try this -- with the driver door open and you kneeling just outside > the car, try "pumping" the clutch pedal back and forth with your > hand. If no more fluid pours out, and there is sufficient fluid in > the reservoir, then you may be able to build up pressure after many > pumps (20-100). Clutch slave cylinders are self-bleeding, so this > just may work. > > If it still is dumping fluid, then you'll need a tow ... > > Regards, > -- > > ______________________________________ > Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: A pool of fluid: Help! - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 10:37:56 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: A pool of fluid: Help! Re: > Thank you for your reply. There was frost on the car this morning >when I went to start it, so temp could definitely be a factor. I did >what you suggested, and no more fluid came out. After about 100 pumps or >so, the pedal now returns to the up position on its own, and it feels >like some pressure has built up. I can also hear a wet 'sucking' sound >when I pump. That could be a suction either at the slave cylinder, or at the reservoir. Master clutch cylinders hardly every fail ... Make sure you have enough fluid in the reservoir ... > I'm going to be jacking the front end shortly and crawling under to >look more closely at the area, and see exactly where the fluid came >from. Would it most likely have come from the bleed screw or somewhere >else on the slave cyl? Is replacement and pressure bleeding the only >proper solution for a situation such as this? I doubt the bleed screw failed -- I've never heard of one coming loose. More likely, the seal(s) inside the slave cylinder have failed / are failing. Usually you can't see them because there's a piston in the slave cylinder (the seals are on the piston), the piston is held in by an inner circlip, and the "dry side" of the piston operates on a rod that pushes on the clutch release lever. The piston (and pedal) are pushed back by the clutch's springs via the operating arm / fork. Usually that whole area is hidden inside the bell housing ... but if you see a lot of leakage coming from that area (e.g. "internal leakage", as opposed to external leakage that you can see from under the car), then the clutch slave needs replacing. Hydraulics like this usually fail due to rust build-up in the cylinder that's just beyond the normal travel of the piston. Then, one day, you push harder / farther than normal on the pedal, the seals run into that rusted area, get torn, and it's all downhill from there ... One other possibility is a damaged or loose hydraulic line from the clutch master to the clutch slave ... Make sure you use jackstands to support the car while you're under it .. Regards, -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com