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#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: Koni SA settings and adjustments - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 14:18:39 -0400 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Koni SA settings and adjustments At 11:24 AM 10/18/2002 -0500, Neil Maller wrote: > > I'd like the ride to be a little less soft than stock. Does that lead > me to > > the bilstein/H&R setup? > >Not if you meant it about "a little less soft." > >However if "way harder on your fillings" suits you, then that'd be perfect. I'd like to provide another viewpoint on this. I installed the Bilsteins with the H&R OEM springs (not the H&R Sport). Slight drop all around, maybe half an inch, and a silky wonderful ride over rough roads. Both my car enthusiast friends (one owns a 3000GT VR4 TT, the other a Ferrari 308) have commented on how the car glides over rough roads, and can even corner quite capably on them as well. I have to admit I'm also impressed how well this combination can corner hard under less-than-ideal road conditions. If you want a lower ride height than this, Konis are probably a more comfortable option than the Bilsteins, based on what I've read here. - Chris
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#2. Re: [E36M3] BMW Interior Advice - from Reid Conti
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Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 11:32:36 -0700 From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] BMW Interior Advice Rogue will explain to you why having a heavy shift knob is bad for your tranny.. poke around their site. get a lighted leather one! - reid >> Ok, so my 8-year old shift knob on my 95 M3 is faded and bleached >> out. Any >> recommendations out there for a replacement? I'm installing the E-46 >> aluminum pedal set soon, so should I go with an aluminum shift knob >> and >> handbrake? Anyone done this with the black leather interior? Any >> other >> recommendations? > > Aluminum UUC Rob Knob review: > > Very easy install. But recheck the tightness after a couple of weeks. > > Looks nice IMO, though somewhat out of place in an otherwise > not-very-metallic E36 interior. Maybe with the matching pedals and > brake lever it'll look more integrated. Hell if I know; ask Martha > Stewart. (But if she recommends anything in the doily group, run.) > > The big drawback of metal shift knobs is that they get *really* hot in > the summer if you park in the sun. (Also really cold in the winter if > you park north of Florida.) The good part is that this should improve > your shifting speed, and will quickly break that bad habit of resting > your hand on the shift lever between shifts. The bad part is that it > freakin' hurts. (First gear, ow! Second gear, ow! Third gear, nah, > I'll just wind it up in second.) Keep a glove handy. > > IMO plastic and leather knobs are much more practical because of the > temperature issue, though uglier. > > -- > David Ripton dripton@ripton.net > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of > the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#3. Sticking Shifter - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 16:31:23 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Sticking Shifter Since our last discussions of this, Ive done some more investigating, and it seems like its occurring a whole lot more than I ever imagined. If you are so afflicted, ie, if your shifter, when the car is cold, seems to be at rest all the way to the right underneath fifth gear, and if the fifth gear gate detente seems to be missing til it warms up, you need to read this thread on bimmerforums: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=48002&perpage=2 5&pagenumber=1 This helps put it all in perspective. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#4. Re: Dead Slave Cyl. - from Steve Klein
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Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 17:10:48 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: Dead Slave Cyl. First, thank you Andrew and Jeffrey for your responses. I lifted the front end on jackstands (I need to get a better floor jack) and took a close look at the slave cyl. on the transmission, the source of the leaking, and the hose and fittings. The fluid is comming out of two threaded holes in the bottom of the bell housing, just aft of where the X-brace crosses. A bit more dripped out when I lifted the front, but pumping the pedal (literally) hundreds of times doesn't seem to have dumped any more fluid out. So, my plan of action is to get a slave cylinder from the dealer tomorrow, along with brake resevoir cap to make a pressure bleeder, and hopefully replace the part tomorrow after work. Aside from the top nut on the cylinder looking like a tight fit to access, are there any other things to look out for when replacing? As for bleeding, will exposing the line to the slave mean I'll need to bleed the entire system, brakes included? Thanks again for your help, Steve
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#5. WTB (2) 17 x 8.5 M Contour wheels - from Will Land
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Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 18:51:40 -0400 From: "Will Land" <wland@erols.com> Subject: WTB (2) 17 x 8.5 M Contour wheels I am looking to buy 2ea. 17 x 8.5 M Contour wheels. Please contact me privately if you have a pair of these for sale. Thanks, Will wland@erols.com
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Dead Slave Cyl. - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 15:57:53 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Dead Slave Cyl. Re: > The fluid is comming out of two threaded holes in the bottom of the >bell housing, just aft of where the X-brace crosses. A bit more >dripped out when I lifted the front, but pumping the pedal >(literally) hundreds of times doesn't seem to have dumped any more >fluid out. Sounds like a dead slave cylinder ... >As for bleeding, will exposing the line to the slave mean I'll need >to bleed the entire system, brakes included? No, because the clutch hydraulics take their fluid from a higher point on the reservoir than the brakes do. They can run completely dry and have no effect on the brakes. By (safety) design, when you think about it ... Regards, -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#7. E36 M3 K&N Cold Air Intake for sale - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 20:13:05 -0400 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: E36 M3 K&N Cold Air Intake for sale Last summer, I bought a K&N-based cold air intake from Bob Stommel. Here was his original mailing list post: >>At 06:53 PM 7/4/2001 -0500, Bob Stommel wrote: >>>Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2001 18:49:43 -0500 >>>From: Bob Stommel <rstommel@iquest.net> >>>Subject: FS: Cold air intake system >>> >>>For sale: Cold air intake system with insulated heat shield, K&N cone >>>filter, and all mounting hardware for any E36 M3. Replaces stock air >>>box and connects directly to stock HFM. No engine bay modifications >>>necessary. Used for two driving schools. $90 plus shipping from Avon, >>>Indiana (suburb of Indianapolis - Zip Code 46123). Digital photo available. >>> >>>(Note: This is not Conforti's current system, but it also isn't >>>$400. It's a duplicate of Conforti's original design in 1996.) >>> >>>Bob Stommel >>>97 M3/4, 5-speed (for sale) Well, I bought it from him and it's done nothing but sit in my garage. In an attempt to clean up the garage, I am now putting it back up for sale. I am asking what I paid for it - $90 plus shipping. I took some pictures of the kit: http://home.epix.net/~chris73/cai1.jpg http://home.epix.net/~chris73/cai2.jpg http://home.epix.net/~chris73/cai3.jpg The K&N filter has been wrapped in plastic (I took it off for the pictures), and is quite fresh. Sorry the pictures look so funny, the pool table felt throws off the white balance of my camera. - Chris
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Koni SA settings and adjustments - from Dave Kelley
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Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 20:17:29 -0400 From: "Dave Kelley" <d.kelley@usa.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni SA settings and adjustments > Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 10:54:42 -0700 > From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni SA settings and adjustments > > Most responses seem to cluster around 1/2 to 1 turn from full soft for > front and rear, in many cases with the rear slightly stiffer than the > front. So I'll be setting and installing the rears, and setting the fronts, > this weekend. I haven't completely decided on my settings, but something > like 3/4 turn from soft R, 1/2 turn from soft F. Although I don't really > want to be playing with adjustments a whole lot, having the ability to do > so with the Koni's is a plus. Not to mention the great deal I got on a used > (<25K miles) set <bg>. > > Cheers, > Jim Bassett > I will be having a set of Koni SA's with less than 2,000 miles on the front struts and less than 1,000 miles on the rear shocks, i.e. "like new". Fronts are the stock housing/springs with the Koni cartridges already installed so you don't have the time and expense to do the "cut and gut". Plus, you will still have your stock front struts to sell to some happy E36 owner or M3 owner who needs a set to "cut and gut". I've got a tentative offer of $600, but I'm still taking backup/higher offers! Dave Kelley 98 M3/4 94 325i
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#9. Re: [E36M3] BMW Interior Advice - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 20:52:45 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] BMW Interior Advice Check out the metal shifters at Conrero.com I have the Titanium and CF knob. These are top-notch products from Europe. Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion '97 & '00 BSP Champion '01 & '02
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Re: Dead Slave Cyl. - from Jeremy Warfield
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Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 21:05:11 -0400 From: "Jeremy Warfield" <jww95@earthlink.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Dead Slave Cyl. Well, part of the hydro clutch went out on my car friday night, so I thought it was pretty funny to check my email today and see these postings about slave cyl replacement, lol. Anyway, I'm going to go to the dealer tomorrow and buy both the slave and master cylinders, so does anyone know if it is as simple to replace the master cylinder as the bentley describes? later jeremy- '95 with limited gear selection -----Original Message----- From: Andrew E. Kalman [mailto:aek@pumpkininc.com] Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2002 7:05 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Dead Slave Cyl. Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 15:57:53 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Dead Slave Cyl. Re: > The fluid is comming out of two threaded holes in the bottom of the >bell housing, just aft of where the X-brace crosses. A bit more >dripped out when I lifted the front, but pumping the pedal >(literally) hundreds of times doesn't seem to have dumped any more >fluid out. Sounds like a dead slave cylinder ... >As for bleeding, will exposing the line to the slave mean I'll need >to bleed the entire system, brakes included? No, because the clutch hydraulics take their fluid from a higher point on the reservoir than the brakes do. They can run completely dry and have no effect on the brakes. By (safety) design, when you think about it ... Regards, --