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#1. sticking fifth gear gate - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 17:22:00 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: sticking fifth gear gate Paul says > > Dear friends, what used to be a sticky gate has now become a nonexistant > gate when the car is cold. Wow, this went from not being a problem last week........ Paul previously said on Friday when I said the problem was in the transmission and repair requires removal > > Maybe, but I still dont see what the problem is. In my case, in normal use, > its never an issue. The only time it sticks is when moving the shifter from > left to right, as in when youre 'feeling' neutral. Its just a little > 'glitch', in that if I move it from left, and force it over all the way to > the right, past the detente, it sometimes stays there, if I dont tap it > back. However, when actively shifting, it never happens, because the only > time Im all the way over to the right is when Im in the process of moving > from fourth up and over to fifth, and when Im moving out of fifth, down and > over to the left into fourth. In neither case does the shifter ever hit > that sticky point in neutral, so, whats the dif? As far as being in the > 'beginning' stages, I dont think so, as Ive noticed it for what must be the > better part of a year. Im positive that in my case, its the linkage, not > the transmission. ........to now needing a new transmission. I hope my car doesn't deteriorate so quickly. :-) Best regards, Rich - Wondering how frequent this problem really is and if it is related to certain production, etc.? 95 M3 90 325is
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Stock brakes and track schools -- don't do it.. - from Zachary Eyler-Walker
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Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 17:55:42 -0400 (EDT) From: Zachary Eyler-Walker <zwalker@cs.utk.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Stock brakes and track schools -- don't do it.. > Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 15:07:36 -0400 > From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Stock brakes and track schools > > You will get a lot of opinions on this but I'll try to be first. > > IMHO, for a new driver with a relatively stock car like yours the OEM brakes > are fine providing you brake properly and don't do something really stupid > like putting on the emergency brake after coming off the track. What do you mean by "braking properly"? From my own experience, the stock pads are fine until you start braking deep from 100+. Then they start getting greasy as hell, requiring substantially more pedal pressure to rein the car in. They dust like crazy, but on the positive side they really do seem to last pretty well. My Hawk HPS, which perform pretty similarly on the track with respect to fade (ie, lots of fade), seemed to wear several times as quickly. I still lost quite a bit of OEM pad in a two day trip to VIR South, though. I warped my rotors at both trips I've taken to VIR South, which is a hard braking course. I can't guarantee they're physically warped, but if it's pad build-up it's severe enough that several months of driving didn't significantly affect the shudder the first time around. This time it sounds like I'm going over rumble strips if I hit the brakes at speeds over 75 or so. Apart from using them to slow my car really quickly on the race track, I babied my brakes at this last event. Took 10 minute cool down cruises, never came to a complete stop with the brakes actuated, etc. The upshot: Even if stock pads last well, they fade like bastards once they're at track temperature. They either warp rotors or melt at track temperature and potentially trash the rotors that way. If you're serious about driving fast on the track, buy some track only brake pads. The rest of the braking system is pretty good. I'm going to try just track pads for my next outing, most likely; if that doesn't cut it, I'll get either or both of euro floating rotors and a brake cooling duct kit. Set up that way the brakes ought to be adequate even under racing conditions. YMMV, of course. Zach
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#3. Boogers: What to do? - from twisty M3
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Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 15:54:42 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Boogers: What to do? I just never cease to be amazed at the longevity of the Toyo RA-1s. I have a set with several schools on them (plus driving to and from each event, including a trip to Laguna Seca from sourthern Cal), and I thought they were just about done. I decided to let some friends use them in an enduro at Buttonwillow a week and half ago, but I wasn't sure they had enough life to last the entire race. No problem, however. They still appear to have some life left in them (albeit not much, and severly heat cycled). The only "problem" is that the car they were running on didn't have much neg. camber at all, so the insides have TREMENDOUS amounts of "boogers" which looks noticeably thick. (nice visual!) I'm thinking I'll save these as a back up set, but before putting some new Toyos on for Laguna Seca, etc. coming up, I think I may have a chance to try to tear the old ones up a bit more at Willow Springs (not a nice track for tires). Is it safe to assume that the boogers will fly off after a couple of laps, or would they pretty much be a part of tire now, due to the temps seen? Also, how badly should 3 hours of nonstop 8-9/10ths of driving affected their sticking abilities? Ambient temps were mild, but many cars were displaying glowing rotors going into T1, so things were gettin' nice and toasty. Still okay to use these things, or just toss 'em? Thanks for any opinions, Jonathan _________________________________________________________________ Unlimited Internet access -- and 2 months free! Try MSN. http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/2monthsfree.asp
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Boogers: What to do? - from Mel Myers
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Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 19:11:35 -0500 From: Mel Myers <melmyers76@netscape.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Boogers: What to do? Just as a little experiment why dont you run those things until they cord, and let us know how they do. The more I run the Toyo's, the more I am impressed with them, and I am interested in how much life other people are getting out of them. BTW, the Toyo rep in Texas told me that it is a good idea to flip the tires on the rim after each event. That seems a little extreme, but may be an option for you at this poinl. -Mel twisty M3 wrote: > Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 15:54:42 -0700 > From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> > Subject: Boogers: What to do? > > I just never cease to be amazed at the longevity of the Toyo RA-1s. I > have a set with several schools on them (plus driving to and from each > event, including a trip to Laguna Seca from sourthern Cal), and I > thought they were just about done. I decided to let some friends use > them in an enduro at Buttonwillow a week and half ago, but I wasn't > sure they had enough life to last the entire race. No problem, however. > > They still appear to have some life left in them (albeit not much, and > severly heat cycled). The only "problem" is that the car they were > running on didn't have much neg. camber at all, so the insides have > TREMENDOUS amounts of "boogers" which looks noticeably thick. (nice > visual!) I'm thinking I'll save these as a back up set, but before > putting some new Toyos on for Laguna Seca, etc. coming up, I think I > may have a chance to try to tear the old ones up a bit more at Willow > Springs (not a nice track for tires). > > Is it safe to assume that the boogers will fly off after a couple of > laps, or would they pretty much be a part of tire now, due to the > temps seen? Also, how badly should 3 hours of nonstop 8-9/10ths of > driving affected their sticking abilities? Ambient temps were mild, > but many cars were displaying glowing rotors going into T1, so things > were gettin' nice and toasty. > > Still okay to use these things, or just toss 'em? > > Thanks for any opinions, > Jonathan > > _________________________________________________________________ > Unlimited Internet access -- and 2 months free! Try MSN. > http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/2monthsfree.asp > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of > the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#5. RSM Question - from Jason Knight
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Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 18:17:39 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: RSM Question Yes, another question about RSMs. When driving my car ('97 with 32k miles) I hear a slight clunking noise coming from the rear of the car going over bumps. It may just be that I have paranoia from reading this list, and the normal suspension noises are being routed through my brain and ending up as soundling like a cracked rear shock mount. I pulled the stuff away from them in the trunk, and it appears that the rubber part on the driver side may be getting brittle, as there are little pieces of rubber dust in that area, but I see no evidence of cracking of the tower or mangled mounts. The rubber is not flush against the metal pieces above and below though. Does anyone have a pic of a "bad" RSM, possibly both the rubber and the actually cracked shock tower? I found a lot of clunking references in a search of the archives, but not much in the way of photos. I'm getting stealth boxes put in the car in a week or so, and would like to do any necessary work before they make inspection of that area difficult. Thanks in advance for answering a qustion that seems to come up about as often as koni vs. bilstein. Jason __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
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#6. RE: [E36M3] RSM Question - from Johnny Lee
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Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 22:20:23 -0400 From: Johnny Lee <mclee@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RSM Question I think this is what you are looking for: http://www.apexcone.com/shockmounts/shockmounts.html -Johnny -----Original Message----- From: Jason Knight [mailto:knight2244@yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, October 21, 2002 9:25 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] RSM Question Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 18:17:39 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: RSM Question Yes, another question about RSMs. When driving my car ('97 with 32k miles) I hear a slight clunking noise coming from the rear of the car going over bumps. It may just be that I have paranoia from reading this list, and the normal suspension noises are being routed through my brain and ending up as soundling like a cracked rear shock mount. I pulled the stuff away from them in the trunk, and it appears that the rubber part on the driver side may be getting brittle, as there are little pieces of rubber dust in that area, but I see no evidence of cracking of the tower or mangled mounts. The rubber is not flush against the metal pieces above and below though. Does anyone have a pic of a "bad" RSM, possibly both the rubber and the actually cracked shock tower? I found a lot of clunking references in a search of the archives, but not much in the way of photos. I'm getting stealth boxes put in the car in a week or so, and would like to do any necessary work before they make inspection of that area difficult. Thanks in advance for answering a qustion that seems to come up about as often as koni vs. bilstein. Jason __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. *************************************************************
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#7. Sticky Shifter - from Mike Cornwell
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Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 22:13:25 -0700 (PDT) From: Mike Cornwell <mcornwell@yahoo.com> Subject: Sticky Shifter I posted about this 5 months ago, what took you guys so long to find the problem in your car! :-) http://www.bmw-m.net/Digest/Archive_2002_05%20digest%202253-2331/digest2323.htm#5 I'll probably be making an appointment at the stealer next week, until then I'll drive the CBR929RR as much as possible. ------------------------------------------ Paul Elliott wrote: >>i never noticed this before, but after seeing this discussion, i checked mine this morning. sure enough, if i push the shifter over to the right while in neutral, it sometimes gets "stuck" there (though it is easily "unstuck" with i light tap).<< Im sorry to say that youve got it too. It will be like this for awhile, but I promise you, before long, for the first 15 minutes after the car is started up when the car is cold, that sticky detente point will disappear completely. What we're finding is that when its cold, it stays there on the right hand side of the shift pattern until the car warms up and drives for about 15 minutes. During that time, you have to fish for third a bit, because that fifth gear detetente is used to help guide your lever into third. Without it, youre shifting into third without any guidance, and you DONT want to find first instead. Most guys just misshift into fifth and then bring it back to third, until it warms up. Ive gotten used to finding third this way, so its really not a problem for me. And if it stayed this way, that is, if the detente always came back after 15 minutes and didnt get any worse, Id probably be ok with it. But I have no proof that after a while, the detente doesnt disappear permanently. In your case, just follow its progress, and note when you lose the detente altogether. We know that some dealers have covered it if youre under warranty. I'll find out next week how they handle mine. Theyve been pretty good to me in that they did the complete weld fix to my rear shock tower tops under warranty. So, hopefully they'll do the right thing again. But if the fix really just involves replacing a little spring and pin inside the transmission near the top, if the dealer refuses to cover the repair and only offers to do an R&R at full price, Id want to try and see if an independant wouldnt be willing to undertake the spring fix. Id guess it would only cost around 10% of the complete R&R. I guess it would be too much to expect the dealer to take the tranny apart!
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#8. Mid-Ohio garage spot - from Michael Turgeon
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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 05:58:46 -0700 (PDT) From: Michael Turgeon <turgeon1@yahoo.com> Subject: Mid-Ohio garage spot Gruppe: Anyone heading down to Mid-Ohio this weekend interested in sharing a garage spot? Let me know. Thanks, Mike __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
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#9. Lug bolts... - from DocWyte
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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 06:59:14 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Lug bolts... Anyone know if the lug bolts are the same between the bmw stock wheels and aftermarket wheels? On my previous VW/Audi's the stock lugbolts had a ball seat and the aftermarket ones needed a cone seat... Is this also true of the bmw lug bolts? -josh ===== Josh Wyte Momentum Motorsports 508-833-3024 After 5 pm EST __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Lug bolts... - from twisty M3
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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 08:48:33 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Lug bolts... My BBS RKs required a new set of lug bolts. The OE bolts fit, and it *may* have been safe to use them, but the seating is noticeably different, so I see no sense in taking any risks. Jonathan L. >From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> > >Anyone know if the lug bolts are the same between the >bmw stock wheels and aftermarket wheels? > >On my previous VW/Audi's the stock lugbolts had a ball >seat and the aftermarket ones needed a cone seat... >Is this also true of the bmw lug bolts? > >-josh > >===== >Josh Wyte >Momentum Motorsports >508-833-3024 After 5 pm EST _________________________________________________________________ Get faster connections -- switch to MSN Internet Access! http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp