E36M3 #2705

Tuesday, October 22, 2002 19:54:45

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. re: sticking fifth gear gate - from Burgess, Kim L
#2. E36M3 knock sensor replacement - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
#3. Re: [E36M3] E36M3 knock sensor replacement - from Chester Wong
#4. Clutch Slave Replaced: A success story - from Steve Klein
#5. Re: [E36M3] sticking fifth gear gate - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
#6. Re: [E36M3] Boogers: What to do? - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
#7. Re: [E36M3] Boogers: What to do? - from twisty M3
#8. FS: Pilot MXX3 235/40 17 - from Kallay@aol.com
#9. Re: [E36M3] Boogers: What to do? - from Mel Myers
#10. Re: [E36M3] Sticky Shifter --> OT 929's - from Jeremy Lucas

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#1. re: sticking fifth gear gate - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 11:28:17 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: re: sticking fifth gear gate All this sticky-shifter talk has got me wondering. How many cases of 'missing' fifth-gear detente are there? And of those individuals that are experiencing the problem are they using a modified shift mechanism? Who's? Self installed or by an experienced technician? Thanks KLBurgess

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#2. E36M3 knock sensor replacement - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 13:49:30 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: E36M3 knock sensor replacement I've been getting a CE code #45 (knock sensor, cylinders 4-6) on and off for the last year or so. Finally ordered a new knock sensor and opened Bentley only to discover that it's borderline useless beyond instructions to take the intake off and mount the new sensor the same way as the old one. Any other hints or gotchas from anyone who has BTDT? Do I need to buy any gaskets or anything else to do this job? TIA, alex f

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#3. Re: [E36M3] E36M3 knock sensor replacement - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 12:21:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 knock sensor replacement I don't think you need any gaskets. From what I've been told, knock sensors ususally don't go bad. It's the wiring that usually screws up...corrodes or whatever. In order to replace the knock sensor, you're going to have to remove the air intake plenum which is a fairly bitchful process....raw back of your hands, here you come! :) As a side note, it's amazing how many of these contacts corrode. I remember doing the stereo on my car only after having it for a few months and finding the contacts for the amplifier connector corroded. My Nikon Coolpix 950 also has a screwed up main switch and some online directions that show you how to fix it swear by a product made by CAIG Labs....DeOxit D5: http://www.caig.com/2c-special.htm Anyway, I'm probably going to order some and use it on whatever contacts I have in the future. Chester --- alex.fadeev@verizon.com wrote: > I've been getting a CE code #45 (knock sensor, cylinders 4-6) on and off > for the last year or so. Finally ordered a new knock sensor and opened > Bentley only to discover that it's borderline useless beyond instructions to > take the intake off and mount the new sensor the > same way as the old one. > Any other hints or gotchas from anyone who has BTDT? > Do I need to buy any gaskets or anything else to do this job? ===== __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site http://webhosting.yahoo.com/

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#4. Clutch Slave Replaced: A success story - from Steve Klein
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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 14:36:07 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Clutch Slave Replaced: A success story One more thanks to all who helped me wrap my brain around my dilemma with the clutch slave. I sourced the parts over lunch yesterday and did the entire job (including fabricating the pressure vessel) in about two and a half hours. I spent half an hour repeating the bleeding procedure because I didn't recognize the return of pressure on the clutch pedal, and couldn't verify it was working until I lowered the front to roll it. Aside from complications with my collector hose and bottle and making a mess of fluid while bleeding, the procedure was rather straight forward. The top nut wasn't nearly as difficult as I thought. As a note, I called the local dealer, Baron BMW, and they wanted $127 for the slave, and it would take 3-4 days to get it, or another $25 for overnighting it. I called my service peeps, Hafkemeyer Motors, and they had one in stock and swapped me even for $63.45 with CCA discount. As another note, the satisfaction of doing it myself and saving the tow/service fees was priceless. Thanks again, Steve

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#5. Re: [E36M3] sticking fifth gear gate - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 15:01:47 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] sticking fifth gear gate Double Amen to that! Fix it and tell us how you did it, or learn to live with it. alex f Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: > > Can we let this thread die? Pretty please? Unless someone has real > information such as what the exact cause is and how to fix it, I could > care less about anecdotal evidence or guesses at what could be wrong > or dealer experiences. If it's broken, fix it..simple as that. Whether > the fix is swapping trannies or opening it up, so be it. > [...] > > > Hi Rich, > > > > >>.......to now needing a new transmission. I hope my car doesn't > > deteriorate so quickly<< > > > > Im touched...you kept all my past quotes! Seriously, what i think happened > > is that by the time I get to the parkway, its about 10 minutes. Then, I'll > <blah blah blah snipped>

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#6. Re: [E36M3] Boogers: What to do? - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 15:05:32 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Boogers: What to do? Mel, Here is one data point: I got my set of 235/40-17 RA1s as soon as they came out in that size (May of 2001?). They became my full time summer/fall/spring/autoX/DE tires. Oh, and I'm in Dallas TX, so there are no winters here. I had put 12K street miles, one and a half autoX seasons, two DEs and they still had some tread left when I sold them together with my old track wheels to a friend. I made a mistake of replacing them with the Hoosiers. The latter are obviously pricier, stickier and can not be driven on the street. The HoHo's are more competitive, but once they wear off I'm going back to Toyos for versatility (either street, track or autoX use) and longevity. Toyo - great tires, lousy distributors. alex f Mel Myers <melmyers76@netscape.net> wrote: > > Just as a little experiment why dont you run those things until they > cord, and let us know how they do. The more I run the Toyo's, the more > I am impressed with them, and I am interested in how much life other > people are getting out of them. > > BTW, the Toyo rep in Texas told me that it is a good idea to flip the > tires on the rim after each event. That seems a little extreme, but may > be an option for you at this poinl. > > -Mel > > > twisty M3 wrote: > > > > I just never cease to be amazed at the longevity of the Toyo RA-1s. I > > have a set with several schools on them (plus driving to and from each > > event, including a trip to Laguna Seca from sourthern Cal), and I > > thought they were just about done. I decided to let some friends use > > them in an enduro at Buttonwillow a week and half ago, but I wasn't > > sure they had enough life to last the entire race. No problem, however. > > > > They still appear to have some life left in them (albeit not much, and > > severly heat cycled). The only "problem" is that the car they were > > running on didn't have much neg. camber at all, so the insides have > > TREMENDOUS amounts of "boogers" which looks noticeably thick. (nice > > visual!) I'm thinking I'll save these as a back up set, but before > > putting some new Toyos on for Laguna Seca, etc. coming up, I think I > > may have a chance to try to tear the old ones up a bit more at Willow > > Springs (not a nice track for tires). > > > > Is it safe to assume that the boogers will fly off after a couple of > > laps, or would they pretty much be a part of tire now, due to the > > temps seen? Also, how badly should 3 hours of nonstop 8-9/10ths of > > driving affected their sticking abilities? Ambient temps were mild, > > but many cars were displaying glowing rotors going into T1, so things > > were gettin' nice and toasty. > > > > Still okay to use these things, or just toss 'em? > > > > Thanks for any opinions, > > Jonathan

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#7. Re: [E36M3] Boogers: What to do? - from twisty M3
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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 13:15:30 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Boogers: What to do? That begs a question... Mel, you weren't running the Toyos for all of your HS wins, were you? Jonathan L. >From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com > >Hoosiers. The latter are >obviously pricier, stickier and can not be driven on the street. The >HoHo's are more competitive, but once they wear off I'm going back to >Toyos for versatility (either street, track or autoX use) and longevity. >Toyo - great tires, lousy distributors. > _________________________________________________________________ Broadband? Dial-up? Get reliable MSN Internet Access. http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp

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#8. FS: Pilot MXX3 235/40 17 - from Kallay@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 17:10:09 EDT From: Kallay@aol.com Subject: FS: Pilot MXX3 235/40 17 Hello everyone, I have 1 nearly unused pilot, 9/32 tread. I am willing to part with it for the paltry sum of $100 plus shipping. If there are any takers please contact me directly. Thanks 98 M3 Dinan S3 package Tom Kallay Kallay@aol

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#9. Re: [E36M3] Boogers: What to do? - from Mel Myers
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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 18:30:19 -0500 From: Mel Myers <melmyers76@netscape.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Boogers: What to do? Well.... let's see what the tire breakdown was Motorsports Ranch 1:25.152 - 255 Toyos w/ 3 track weekends on them, race was w/ approx. 30 deg F ambient temps. Amazing! Road Atlanta 1:41.462 - 245 Hoosiers brand new. 70 deg F ambient Texas World Speedway 1:57.501 - 245 Hoosiers brand new. 60-70 deg ambient Mid Ohio 1:42.519 - 245 Hoosiers brand new. 70 deg ambient Lime Rock Park 1:01.810 - Left over Hoosiers from Mid Ohio, tires were good initially, but I had to baby them through the weekend. Watkins Glen Int'l. 2:18.623 - Brand new 255 Kumhos (sucked @ss!) Roebling Road 1:22.872 - Sat. on old kumhos, Sun. on new 255 shaved Toyos (good lap time), 95 deg ambient Summit Point 1:28.026 - Toyos from Roebling, crashed 6 laps into race. Tires did double duty at a DE at Road Atlanta, probably still have 2-3 school weekends left on them. Notes: 1) I actually ran a 1.57.0 on a stopwatch at TWS on the first set of Toyos at a DE. Those tires weren't shaved initially. 2) Kumhos are the suckiest tires I ever saw. It was my biggest mistake running them at The Glen. They got worse over time and were horrible at Roebling. 3) The new shaved Toyo's at Roebling were awesome. I was keeping up (catching?) with Matt Richmond in his H Prepared LTW, and was less than a second off his best lap time in the same race. He was either running Michelin Pilot cups, or used Hoosiers, I can't remember. 4) At best you should only expect to get ONE weekend out of a set of Hoosiers. After about 2 hours of use, they start to go away bad. Toyos are way more consistent. -Mel twisty M3 wrote: > Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 13:15:30 -0700 > From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Boogers: What to do? > > > > > > > > > > That begs a question... Mel, you weren't running the Toyos for all of > your HS wins, were you? > > Jonathan L. > > >> From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com >> >> Hoosiers. The latter are >> obviously pricier, stickier and can not be driven on the street. The >> HoHo's are more competitive, but once they wear off I'm going back to >> Toyos for versatility (either street, track or autoX use) and longevity. >> Toyo - great tires, lousy distributors. >> > > _________________________________________________________________ > Broadband? Dial-up? Get reliable MSN Internet Access. > http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of > the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >

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#10. Re: [E36M3] Sticky Shifter --> OT 929's - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 20:58:48 -0400 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sticky Shifter --> OT 929's Speaking of 929's..... I've got an extra one for sale if anyone is interested just email me for details. :) Jeremy Lucas Delaware, OH 95 M3 98 Miata 00 CBR929 (red & white) 97 VFR 750 00 CBR929 (for sale - yellow & black) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Cornwell" <mcornwell@yahoo.com> > I posted about this 5 months ago, what took you guys so long to find the > problem in your car! :-) > > http://www.bmw-m.net/Digest/Archive_2002_05%20digest%202253-2331/digest2 323.htm#5 > > I'll probably be making an appointment at the stealer next week, until then > I'll drive the CBR929RR as much as possible. >

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