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#1. Nakamichi install...Couple questions - from marc@plante.com
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Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 04:52:04 -0700 (PDT) From: marc@plante.com Subject: Nakamichi install...Couple questions Well...I bought a Nak MB-75 (courtesey of Ebay) and will be installing it shortly to go with my Alpine Amp, ADS 335s and Stealth boxes. It's been a while since I've done a headunit install. Questions for those that have been there, done that: 1) What length RCA connector cords do I need to get from the headunit to the trunk where the amp is? Will 10 feet do? 12? 2) I have an SRD that should come out fairly easily on the driver's side, I was planning on running the lines up by the center tunnel (about the shortest distance to the amp on the left side of the trunk). Any issues with that? 3) otherwise, I've got existing ground, power and accessory hookups, which I assume will be fairly straightforward. Am I missing anything? 4) Any gotchas with the mechanical installation in the dash? Any special brackets required? Marc Plante E36 325i, 207k Vienna, VA
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Nakamichi install...Couple questions - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 04:59:46 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Nakamichi install...Couple questions --- marc@plante.com wrote: > Well...I bought a Nak MB-75 (courtesey of Ebay) and will be installing it > shortly to go with my > Alpine Amp, ADS 335s and Stealth boxes. It's been a while since I've done a > headunit install. > Questions for those that have been there, done that: Interesting...I'm getting rid of my MB-75 for an Alpine CDA-7998 :) > 1) What length RCA connector cords do I need to get from the headunit to the > trunk where the amp > is? Will 10 feet do? 12? 5 meter length...so something like 15 feet. > 2) I have an SRD that should come out fairly easily on the driver's side, I > was planning on running > the lines up by the center tunnel (about the shortest distance to the amp on > the left side of the > trunk). Any issues with that? If you remove the driver seat, you'll easily see the existing wiring path. > 3) otherwise, I've got existing ground, power and accessory hookups, which I > assume will be fairly > straightforward. Am I missing anything? Run power and ground from the trunk (same place where the amp is powered/grounded to) while you're at it. > 4) Any gotchas with the mechanical installation in the dash? Any special > brackets required? Nope. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Nakamichi install...Couple questions - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 05:45:14 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Nakamichi install...Couple questions At 06:54 AM 10/24/02 -0500, you wrote: >Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 04:52:04 -0700 (PDT) >From: marc@plante.com >Subject: Nakamichi install...Couple questions > >Well...I bought a Nak MB-75 (courtesey of Ebay) and will be installing it shortly to go with my >Alpine Amp, ADS 335s and Stealth boxes. It's been a while since I've done a headunit install. >Questions for those that have been there, done that: > >1) What length RCA connector cords do I need to get from the headunit to the trunk where the amp >is? Will 10 feet do? 12? > >2) I have an SRD that should come out fairly easily on the driver's side, I was planning on running >the lines up by the center tunnel (about the shortest distance to the amp on the left side of the >trunk). Any issues with that? > >3) otherwise, I've got existing ground, power and accessory hookups, which I assume will be fairly >straightforward. Am I missing anything? > >4) Any gotchas with the mechanical installation in the dash? Any special brackets required? > > >Marc Plante >E36 325i, 207k >Vienna, VA 1&2) Center tunnel is probably fine, but it's probably easier to run it down the driver's side near the door. All you have to do is remove the door sill. I'd go with 18-20' RCAs. 10-12' may not make it even if you do go down the center. It's better to be too long than 3" too short. 3&4) Get a wire harness adapter and a Euro antenna adapter from your local car audio shop. That's all you'll need electrically. The sleeve/can for the deck will mount in the existing opening just fine. You may have a problem with the depth of that deck. If so, you'll have to cut the back off the factory plastic bracket that supports the weight of the deck. You'll see what I mean when you get it opened up. If you have any questions or need help, contact me. Jay
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Nakamichi install...Couple questions - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 05:49:42 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Nakamichi install...Couple questions At 06:54 AM 10/24/02 -0500, you wrote: >Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 04:52:04 -0700 (PDT) >From: marc@plante.com >Subject: Nakamichi install...Couple questions > >Well...I bought a Nak MB-75 (courtesey of Ebay) and will be installing it shortly to go with my >Alpine Amp, ADS 335s and Stealth boxes. It's been a while since I've done a headunit install. >Questions for those that have been there, done that: > >1) What length RCA connector cords do I need to get from the headunit to the trunk where the amp >is? Will 10 feet do? 12? > >2) I have an SRD that should come out fairly easily on the driver's side, I was planning on running >the lines up by the center tunnel (about the shortest distance to the amp on the left side of the >trunk). Any issues with that? > >3) otherwise, I've got existing ground, power and accessory hookups, which I assume will be fairly >straightforward. Am I missing anything? > >4) Any gotchas with the mechanical installation in the dash? Any special brackets required? > > >Marc Plante >E36 325i, 207k >Vienna, VA Some more info. While you're at it, I'd run an extra RCA. An extra 18ga Remote wire. And, 2 18ga ground wires that could be used for a source ground setup if you ever need to. You may never need them, but it's better to have them than to have to go through re-running them. Jay
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#5. Re: Sub Belt Install - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 08:19:34 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Sub Belt Install on 10/23/02 10:14 PM, shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com wrote: > I saw a car in the paddock one time that had a thin steel bar about two > inches wide that went under the seat rails and connected the two front > mounting bolts. The sub belt was attached to an eye bolt that stuck up > through the bar. To be clear, the thin bar sat on top of the carpet and > the seat sat on top of it. I would guess that in order to keep the seat > from raking to the rear that you would have to do the same in the back or > adjust the seat manually to make up for the shimming effect. > > Anyway, the sub belt does not have to take too much force, so I always saw > this as an elegant solution for a dual street/track car. On the E36 the carpet rises up between the seat rail front mounting points, so the bar you describe would need to be cranked upward with Z-shaped bends at either end. Not a big deal, but it complicates the fabrication a bit. A straight bar shouldn't be a problem with a stripped race car though. The otherwise similar bar I use spans the rear points and can therefore be flat. Neil 96 M3
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Baby seat tether on back shelf for 1995 M3 - from David Ripton
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Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 11:28:16 -0400 From: David Ripton <dripton@ripton.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Baby seat tether on back shelf for 1995 M3 Msebmwman@aol.com wrote: > Has anyone here converted a 1995 M3 to accept the standard baby seat tether. > This is some sort of metal or other piece that has a small metal bar on it > and perhaps on newer cars a plastic cover to make it look nice. It accepts a > small spring clip that attaches to the top of a baby seat so that the seat > doesn't tilt forward under hard braking. What are the parts needed, things to > do, procedures etc? Is this something that the dealer has in stock to convert > older cars? I haven't heard of a big movement to add LATCH anchors and tethers to older cars. The auto industry would rather have you buy a new minivan. Third-party installers would have to ensure that their three custom-installed anchor points are as sturdy as the factory seat belt, or risk serious liability if a baby seat came loose in a crash. Anyway, LATCH is just about simplifying installation. It hasn't been claimed by NHSTA that a baby in a LATCH seat is safer than one in a seat properly tethered by a seat belt, just that it's easier to install the seat using LATCH than using a seat belt. But it's certainly easier to properly install a baby seat using a seat belt than to properly install LATCH anchors and tethers in an older car. -- David Ripton dripton@ripton.net
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Upcoming work on the M3 - update (longish) - from Dave Kelley
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Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 11:35:18 -0400 From: "Dave Kelley" <d.kelley@usa.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Upcoming work on the M3 - update (longish) So 96+ front strut housings and strut bearings will fit a 95, right? I needed to know since I am selling my Koni struts off my 98 M3. Dave Kelley > Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 04:35:48 -0700 (PDT) > From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Upcoming work on the M3 - update (longish) > > Yep, I have a '95. But I have '97 upper strut > bearings that I've swapped side to side, so it should > be very similar to the newer cars... > > -josh > > > --- Ed Yee <edyee@attbi.com> wrote: > > Bet you have a 95M3, right? > > The later model years offset the top of the strut so > > it > > is kind of tucked underneath the mounting plate. > > > > The 95M3 has the top of the strut pretty much > > centered > > in the mounting hole. > > > > Ed > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "DocWyte" <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> > > To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > > Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2002 11:34 PM > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Upcoming work on the M3 - > > update (longish) > > > > > > > Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 20:24:48 -0700 (PDT) > > > From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> > > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Upcoming work on the M3 - > > update (longish) > > > > > > Uh, what's all this trouble with the front koni > > > adjustment knob? Mine fits just fine and I even > > have > > > the upper strut bearings swapped side to side... > > > > > > -josh > > > > > > > > > --- Mdriver13@aol.com wrote: > > > > Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 22:47:09 -0400 > > > > From: Mdriver13@aol.com > > > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Upcoming work on the M3 - > > > > update (longish) > > > > > > > > In a message dated 10/23/2002 6:24:42 PM Eastern > > > > Standard Time, jimbassett@attbi.com writes: > > > > > > > > > BTW, and I'm sure this has been > > > > > covered before, but does anyone have a > > solution > > > > for a front > > > > > adjuster? Seems > > > > > you can't get the Koni adjuster to fit.) > > > > > > > > Jim, > > > > > > > > Just use some small needle-nose pliers. Not > > fancy, > > > > but does the job. Purchased that $30.00 Dali > > Racing > > > > tool...but it doesn't fit the front Koni's :-( > > > > > > > > Think I may make a small t-handle rod with a > > cut-out > > > > notch at the base. Any buyers??? ;-)) > > > > > > > > Bob Gill > > > > 97 ///M3 coupe > > > > Philly Region SCCA > > > > BSP Champ '01 and '02 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ************************************************************* > > > > List Commands > > > > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > > > > from the mailing list. > > > > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the > > > > list's GET directory. > > > > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the > > > > requested file(s). > > > > > > > > To issue a command/request to the server: > > > > Send a message with the command you wish > > executed as > > > > the > > > > subject of the message to the email address > > > > e36m3@bmw-m.net. > > > > > > > > > > ************************************************************* > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ===== > > > Josh Wyte > > > Momentum Motorsports > > > 508-833-3024 After 5 pm EST > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > > > Do you Yahoo!? > > > Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site > > > http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ > > > > > > > > > > > > ************************************************************* > > > List Commands > > > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > > from the mailing list. > > > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the > > list's GET directory. > > > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the > > requested file(s). > > > > > > To issue a command/request to the server: > > > Send a message with the command you wish executed > > as the > > > subject of the message to the email address > > e36m3@bmw-m.net. > > > > > > ************************************************************* > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ===== > Josh Wyte > Momentum Motorsports > 508-833-3024 After 5 pm EST > > __________________________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site > http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#8. RE: Camber correction shims - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 09:23:25 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Camber correction shims Camber shims - originally from RFKoby@aol.com folks, I came up with that chart for shims and camber. If you use 7/16" SAE flat washers, they usually come around 0.040" thick. Each one washer you place on each bottom strut bolt will yield approximately an ADDITIONAL 1/2 degree negative. You can use as many as you like, as long as you use the proper bolts (grade& length) Torque these grade 8.8 (or better) to 80 ft-lbs. When using LOTS of washers for lots of camber, make sure you check the tire & rim clearance to the strut and spring perch. A few MM is all you need for clearance, if it gets too close, call the TireRack for some hub spacers. Also, when using the washers, this will change the front toe. The front will TOE-OUT. For each washer that you add, an approx. 1/8 turn on the toe-adjusters for each side will bring the toe-in close enough for you to drive to an alignment shop to get it measured correctly. bob and originally from John Jones: Adjustment/Shim size ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 0.5 - 1.16 1.0 - 2.63 1.5 - 4.00 2.0 - 5.44 2.5 - 6.81 Yes, I know it is non-linear. I got the data points from someone else (I can't remember who) when I did the mod myself. I found it to be accurate within the range I was using (2.5 - 4 mm) - Get bolts that are long enough (at least size of old bolt plus shim size) Where to get it: - Easy way = Call Korman and spend $20 for $10 of hardware - you will get what they sell (4mm shims, and longer bolts, if I remember) - Hard way = Call Steve D'G and specify what you want - That way you can correct for uneven camber from the factory. Disclaimer - You do it, you kill yourself, your problem. YMMV. Feel free to supercede any of the above with whatever a real mechanic tells you.
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Upcoming work on the M3 - update (longish) - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 11:42:49 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Upcoming work on the M3 - update (longish) At 08:24 PM 10/23/02, Jay W. Hudson wrote: >Use a dremel or grinder to grind out a nickel sized arc in the edge of the >plate that fits between the shock tower and the top of the strut assy. >It'll allow you to get the adjuster tool in there. That was what my mechanic thought of, but decided against it without consulting me first :-) >Or, make an adjuster >that's not as big around as the plastic one. You can use a fat screw >driver. Cut the end off and then use a hack saw to cut a groove in it. If >you want to be real slick, you can epoxy a piece of steel tubing over it to >keep it from slipping off. Hmmm, I like that idea. Thanks to everybody that responded, I appreciate it. I don't expect to need to adjust them too much (they feel pretty good where they're set right now), but wanted to see what ideas were out there. BTW, the car's aligned and feels great. If you're in the SF Bay Area, I highly recommend Rennwerks in Mt. View. Great job. I got there first thing this morning, in and out in about 2 hours for a 4-wheel alignment. Cheers, Jim Bassett
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#10. [E36M3] More sticking shifter please - from david tow
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Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 12:22:43 -0700 From: "david tow" <david_tow@hotmail.com> Subject: [E36M3] More sticking shifter please Excellent point, Jim. Even though we've got more guesses than solutions so far on this, I would like to hear them. This problem seems to be quite common... David Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 10:35:32 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] sticking shifter At 07:54 AM 10/23/02, Paul Elliott wrote: >Chester and Alex say they dont want this discussed on this forum. <rant> Sorry, missed the part where this was Chester's & Alex's list. Sorry guys, if you don't want to read a particular ON-TOPIC subject, locate the "delete" key and make use of it. Frankly, you don't have the right to tell me (or anyone on this List) what I can or can't discuss. Only Suzy (and her whip :-)) does. </rant> >So if >anybody wants to persue it, feel free to email me privately.. Pfft. I'll continue the discussion right here on the List, thankyouverymuch. Chester & Alex may delete....now. _________________________________________________________________ Unlimited Internet access -- and 2 months free! Try MSN. http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/2monthsfree.asp