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#1. Re: [E36M3] better sound - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 06:07:43 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] better sound At 02:40 PM 10/25/02 -0600, you wrote: >Jay, > >You mention the Alpine CDA 7894. I've been eyeing that one myself. >That unit is now boasting a 60Wx4 internal amp (w/ bass engine, whatever >that is). I know that historically those are not realistic numbers, >but do you think that would be enough to drive a pair of the JL Stealthboxes >without using another external amp? > >thanks, > >Carl Stern >11/95 M3 Carl- Those are peak power numbers. Most manufacturers use peak (read larger) numbers because if the brand x guys do it and they don't, they look inferior. You need an external amp for those stealthboxes. They'd work off deck power. But, not very well. Also, the amp in your deck may overheat. Jay
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#2. Re: [E36M3] rear of car leaning to one side - why? - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 06:18:15 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear of car leaning to one side - why? At 08:24 PM 10/25/02 -0500, you wrote: >Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 21:16:49 -0400 >From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> >Subject: rear of car leaning to one side - why? > >I'm hoping some fellow list members can help me noodle this one out. > >About six months ago, I noticed that I had slightly more tire clearance in >one rear wheel well than the other - maybe 1/4" difference. I didn't think >much of it, because this slight lean was towards the passenger side, and I >figured that the driver's weight would even it back out. Besides, the >difference was extremely slight. > >Walking back to my car in the parking lot the other day, I noticed the rear >of the car was leaning to the right much more significantly than before. I >measured the difference out at 5/8" - very obvious from the rear of the car >now. The car is my daily driver, and drives fine with no strange clunks or >noises. I guess it's time to get dirty > >The car has Bilsteins and H+R OEM springs, and Ground Control RSMs. What's >the first step in diagnosing this? Back when I noticed the slight lean six >months ago, I swapped the rear shock columns (RSM and all) and the lean >stayed on the passenger side. I didn't see any sheet metal damage where >the RSMs rest against the body. Should I pull 'em out and swap columns >again? Have springs been known to weaken? Are there any other rear >suspension components (failed bushings, etc.) that could affect the >settling height of the rear suspension? > >Thanks in advance, > > - Chris > > > > >************************************************************* >List Commands >UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. >DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. >GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > >To issue a command/request to the server: >Send a message with the command you wish executed as the >subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. >************************************************************* > > Chris- I had a similar problem when I 1st bought my car and added 18" wheels/tires. Less fender clearance on the passenger side. Turned out to be a bent r/r lower control arm. These "salad tongs" bend very easily. Flat bed tow truck drivers like to throw a hook over them to tie down a car being transported. Same thing for dumb guys at dyno shops. Another thing could be the spring rubber at the top or bottom of the r/r spring. One could be missing or the wrong size. The top ones come in 3 thicknesses. 5mm = 33 53 1 136 385, 7.5mm = 33 53 1 136 386, 10mm = 33 53 1 136 387. Good luck - Jay
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#3. rear of car leaning to one side - why? - from Lew Becker
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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 08:22:55 -0700 From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> Subject: rear of car leaning to one side - why? That's the way they're built -- unloaded, the driver's side sits higher, so that with a driver both sides sit at the same ride height. My 97's like that (Dinan Stage 3); and it made me a bit crazy until someone ostensibly knowledgeable (Brett Anderson?) addressed this issue several years ago (on the Welty Digest, as I recall). Lew Becker -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 21:16:49 -0400 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: rear of car leaning to one side - why? I'm hoping some fellow list members can help me noodle this one out. About six months ago, I noticed that I had slightly more tire clearance in one rear wheel well than the other - maybe 1/4" difference. I didn't think much of it, because this slight lean was towards the passenger side, and I figured that the driver's weight would even it back out. Besides, the difference was extremely slight. Walking back to my car in the parking lot the other day, I noticed the rear of the car was leaning to the right much more significantly than before. I measured the difference out at 5/8" - very obvious from the rear of the car now. The car is my daily driver, and drives fine with no strange clunks or noises. I guess it's time to get dirty The car has Bilsteins and H+R OEM springs, and Ground Control RSMs. What's the first step in diagnosing this? Back when I noticed the slight lean six months ago, I swapped the rear shock columns (RSM and all) and the lean stayed on the passenger side. I didn't see any sheet metal damage where the RSMs rest against the body. Should I pull 'em out and swap columns again? Have springs been known to weaken? Are there any other rear suspension components (failed bushings, etc.) that could affect the settling height of the rear suspension? Thanks in advance, - Chris
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#4. FS: New MXX3 225/45/17 - from Rob
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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 10:28:19 -0600 From: "Rob" <speedmaster@telus.net> Subject: FS: New MXX3 225/45/17 I have one 225/45/17 Michelin Pilot MXX3 that has been mouted and dismounted but never driven. $125. Thanks, Rob
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#5. Suspension noise -- update. - from Mark Greer
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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 13:02:46 -0400 (EDT) From: "Mark Greer" <mark.greer@excite.com> Subject: Suspension noise -- update. Many here responded providing suggestions as to what could cause clunking in the front end after new struts were installed. This occurs mainly when I travel over small bumps or expansion joints. I re-tightened sway bar link ends and all strut bolts, but the noise remained. On further inspection, it appears that the outboard brake pad retaining clips are missing. There is a similar noise when I tap the brake caliper with a rubber mallet [I was banging all over the suspension in search of a loose component]. Yesterday, as I was slowing to stop I noticed a small click as I depressed the brake pedal.I could repeat at will and this led me to think that this may all be related. Question: Has anyone lost the front brake caliper pad clips, and did it produce the 'clunk' or the 'click' I'm experiencing? Either way I'm buying and installing the clips, but I'd like some satisfaction that this may quiet the car. Mark97 M3/4 _______________________________________________ Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web!
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#6.Recaro SRD - from Ned Coonen
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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 19:30:37 -0500 From: "Ned Coonen" <Ned@fastbears.com> Subject: <FS> Recaro SRD I have a Recaro SRD in black cloth with the slider and T.C. Kline E36 mount. The lower cushion has the optional ($50) sub-belt hole. The seat is in great shape and was the passenger seat in my track-only E36 M3 for two years. I've removed it because the car is now race only and the SRD is far too plush to be used for that purpose. I plan to replace it eventually with a Recaro Pole Position to match the driver's seat. This whole setup costs $820 from http://www.tcklineracing.com.. I'll sell it for $600 plus shipping. It's in the Chicago, IL area and local buyers will get free delivery. Otherwise, the UPS bill will be yours. Pictures are available at http://www.fastbears.com/images/srd. Do you have a Pole Position in your street/track car that you'd like to trade for the more comfortable and adjustable SRD? Ned Coonen ned@fastbears.com
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#7. Re: [E36M3] rear of car leaning to one side - why? - from K Quistorff
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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 21:36:29 -0400 From: "K Quistorff" <kqkq@nc.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear of car leaning to one side - why? Be sure the car is parked for ride height measurement on a truly horizontal surface or measure twice and average, once with the car facing forward, then with the car facing rearward in the same location. Also, be sure the front wheels are pointed straight for at least 15-20 ft. prior to parking for the measurement - if you turn into a space to park, like in a parking lot, the two sides will end up at a different heights. Finally, it shouldn't make any difference with the suspension loaded, but it wouldn't hurt to avoid pulling the parking brake when parking for measurement. Good luck! Keith Quistorff 1996 M3 Original Message: Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 21:16:49 -0400 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: rear of car leaning to one side - why?
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#8. Camshaft question - and WTB - from Jon S.
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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 23:48:45 -0500 From: "Jon S." <treehouse@comcast.net> Subject: Camshaft question - and WTB Anyone know if there is a difference between the 3.0l M3 cams and the 3.2l M3 cams. Is there a duration and/or lift difference? If anyone has a set of stock cams left over from an upgrade, please email me with info and price - Privately Thanks, Jon
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#9. Re: [E36M3] rear of car leaning to one side - why? - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 14:12:11 -0500 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear of car leaning to one side - why? I want to thank everyone for their assistance with my leaning problem. I decided to do some experimentation today. First, I did the easy part - I swapped the rear shock/RSM suspension column between the two sides, then went for a drive. The springs stayed in place. I checked the rear wheel wells, and sure enough the passenger side is still 5/8" lower than the driver's side. I put the car back in the air and let the rear suspension hang at the rear shocks' full extent of travel. The two sides measured within 1/8" across both sides, which is a good thing (nothing real major bent/broken). I also checked part numbers on both the rear H+R springs, and they're identical. Now I'm ready to try swapping springs. List a good list member, I searched my list archives and the Unofficial BMW E36 site before posting, but found two contradictory techniques to do this: * Bentley says to remove the drive axle before removing the shock and letting the suspension droop, or damage to the CV joints can result. * Duane Collie's writeup (http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/suspension/e36_changing_rear_springs.html) says that this is not necessary, and he releases the e-brake, removes the shock, and pries with a pipe (!) to get the springs out. Given that this is my daily driver, I'd rather be safe than sorry. Is removing the axle really as easy as just removing the Torx bolts from the mounting flange, and hanging it with some wire? What's the shadetree mechanic's method for doing this? - Chris (corners real flat around left turns)
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#10. Re: [E36M3] rear of car leaning to one side - why? - from Chris Teague
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Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 11:28:55 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear of car leaning to one side - why? Chris, No need at all to remove the drive axle. Duane's writeup is the best way. It's actually very easy. I just stepped on the upper arm with the shock disconnected, and pulled the spring out. Good luck, Chris T. 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- > > Now I'm ready to try swapping springs. List a good list member, I searched > my list archives and the Unofficial BMW E36 site before posting, but found > two contradictory techniques to do this: > > * Bentley says to remove the drive axle before removing the shock and > letting the suspension droop, or damage to the CV joints can result. > > * Duane Collie's writeup > (http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/suspension/e36_changing_rear_springs.html) > says that this is not necessary, and he releases the e-brake, removes the > shock, and pries with a pipe (!) to get the springs out. > > Given that this is my daily driver, I'd rather be safe than sorry. Is > removing the axle really as easy as just removing the Torx bolts from the > mounting flange, and hanging it with some wire? What's the shadetree > mechanic's method for doing this? > > - Chris (corners real flat around left turns)