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#1. Re: [E36M3] rear of car leaning to one side - why? - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 16:25:24 -0500 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear of car leaning to one side - why? At 11:28 AM 10/27/2002 -0800, Chris Teague wrote: >Chris, > >No need at all to remove the drive axle. Duane's writeup is the best way. >It's actually very easy. I just stepped on the upper arm with the shock >disconnected, and pulled the spring out. Good luck, Chris, this worked like a champ! I feel quite accomplished now, thanks. :) I ran downstairs with Chris's advice, and had both springs out within a minute. Lining them up side-by-side (and keeping track of which came from where), the heights were spot-on identical. I put the springs back on the opposite sides of the car, and reassembled and dropped the car. I went for a quick drive around my development, then parked in the middle of the road outside my driveway, as to straddle the crown in the road. Imagine my surprise when the tires were tucked into the wheel wells by the same amount! Excited, I pulled back into my garage. The 5/8" lean to the passenger side was still there. Thinking the poured cement floor might be out of whack, I pulled the car up and backed it in, tail-first. It still leaned towards the passenger side, but only by 3/8" now. So now I'm at a loss. Despite being only three years old, maybe my cement garage floor is simply not a good reference point. The floor could be uneven across the diagonal of the car, such that it wouldn't matter if the car was pulled in nose-first or tail-first. When I noticed this lean last week, I was running errands, and the car leaned to the right in three separate parking lots. You'd think the odds would be that I'd see it lean the other way once in awhile. But then, the car has a slight built-in lean, as Lew Becker has pointed out. Plus, my car was flatbedded to my mechanic a few months ago due to a failed water pump, and maybe Jay Hudson's theory of bent lower control arms is the culprit. What I do know is, my story has reached the end of its useful life for now. Clearly the rear shocks and springs are identical, the unsupported droops are identical, and I need to do more measurement in more controlled conditions other than "a few parking lots." I will keep an eye on things and make an effort to find a few more level concrete pads to measure this thing on. I have to go to the mall tomorrow anyway, and the top deck of the parking garage is nice and flat. I'll park my car at each 90 degree multiple, and do a little measuring. Shoppers are gonna wonder who that idiot with the tape measure is... :) When I found out something useful, I will be sure to let the list know. Thanks to everyone for the suggestions and guidance. It feels good to get dirty once in awhile. - Chris
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#2. Re: [E36M3] rear of car leaning to one side - why? - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 14:26:24 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear of car leaning to one side - why? At 02:14 PM 10/27/02 -0500, you wrote: >Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 14:12:11 -0500 >From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear of car leaning to one side - why? > >I want to thank everyone for their assistance with my leaning problem. I >decided to do some experimentation today. > >First, I did the easy part - I swapped the rear shock/RSM suspension column >between the two sides, then went for a drive. The springs stayed in >place. I checked the rear wheel wells, and sure enough the passenger side >is still 5/8" lower than the driver's side. I put the car back in the air >and let the rear suspension hang at the rear shocks' full extent of >travel. The two sides measured within 1/8" across both sides, which is a >good thing (nothing real major bent/broken). I also checked part numbers >on both the rear H+R springs, and they're identical. > >Now I'm ready to try swapping springs. List a good list member, I searched >my list archives and the Unofficial BMW E36 site before posting, but found >two contradictory techniques to do this: > >* Bentley says to remove the drive axle before removing the shock and >letting the suspension droop, or damage to the CV joints can result. > >* Duane Collie's writeup >(http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/suspension/e36_changing_rear_springs.html) >says that this is not necessary, and he releases the e-brake, removes the >shock, and pries with a pipe (!) to get the springs out. > >Given that this is my daily driver, I'd rather be safe than sorry. Is >removing the axle really as easy as just removing the Torx bolts from the >mounting flange, and hanging it with some wire? What's the shadetree >mechanic's method for doing this? > > - Chris (corners real flat around left turns) > You don't need to remove the axle. In fact, I wouldn't try it. You'd probably round off one or more of those torx bolts. Not a fun weekend deal. Remove the shock. Get some help to carefully apply downward pressure on the wheel hub/rotor. Use a pry bar (at the top of the spring) or something like it to pop the spring outta there. Be careful not to hurt yourself when the spring pops loose. Also, don't put too much downward pressure on the hub/rotor so as not to damage the CV joints. I don't remember what kind of springs you have. If they're lowereing springs like H&R, they'll come out easier than stock springs. Jay
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#3. Alternator Pulley Install w/Evosport Pulley's - from Chris Teague
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Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 15:56:45 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Alternator Pulley Install w/Evosport Pulley's I got a set of those Evosport Pulley's. Got them installed ok, and belts are on. The problem is that I cannot find a way to hold the alternator pulley down. I use channel lock plies to hold it down to remove it, but the aluminum is a lot slippier, plus I don't want to scar it, so I have been using towels. But it keeps slipping. Anyone know of a way to lock down the alternator to tighten the nut? I don't think it is much more than hand tight right now. The other Chris who is working on his car today!
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Alternator Pulley Install w/Evosport Pulley's - from NickG
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Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 19:56:05 -0500 From: "NickG" <nick@tech-nick.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Alternator Pulley Install w/Evosport Pulley's Wrap the serpentine belt around it, then use the channel lock pliers over the belt. The other method is to use an impact gun (what I would do). Nick > Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 15:56:45 -0800 > From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> > Subject: Alternator Pulley Install w/Evosport Pulley's > > I got a set of those Evosport Pulley's. Got them installed > ok, and belts are on. The problem is that I cannot find a > way to hold the alternator pulley down. I use channel lock > plies to hold it down to remove it, but the aluminum > is a lot slippier, plus I don't want to scar it, so I have been > using towels. But it keeps slipping. Anyone know of a way > to lock down the alternator to tighten the nut? I don't think > it is much more than hand tight right now. > > The other Chris who is working on his car today!
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#5. FS: Misc Brake Parts - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 17:00:54 -0800 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: FS: Misc Brake Parts I finally got my car converted over to the front/rear UUC Very Serious Brake kit in anticipation of the OTC, so my old parts are looking for a new home: - Front/Rear Zimmerman cross-drilled and slotted rotors for E36 M3. Mild wear, but not many miles at all. Mostly a cosmetic upgrade. - BMW OEM Brake pads for E36M3 or 330i Front. About a week of use. - Stainless Steel lines for E36 3-series. May also fit E46 3-series. All 6 lines to do front and rear. - ATE rebuild kits for front and rear E36M3 calipers. New in individual (per caliper) packaging. - Front/rear E36M3 calipers. Complete set. Freshly rebuilt and painted black. All items are priced 'best offer', as I am trying to not be a pack rat. Available for local pick-up in the SF Bay Area, or buyer pays shipping.
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#6. Low Cost HD Floor Jack - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 20:56:44 -0500 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Low Cost HD Floor Jack Just picked up a sturdy jack at Sam's Club and thought those without one in their garage would like to know about it. It's only available in the stores but you can see it at www.samsclub.com under item: 280342 It's branded as a Michelin. It's a 7000lbs jack and I must say it seems to be extremely sturdy after using it for brake caliper dust boot R&R yesterday. It has two key features: 1) it has a quick lift for the first pump to bring it up to the body, and 2) with the cup removed it fits under my lowered M3 (H&R Sport springs) and has no problem making secure contact the hockey puck. Also, it's $60 out the door. The only thing that could be better is that after chassis contact each pump moves less than some other jacks I've used, a side effect no doubt of being rated for 7000lbs. Jeremy Lucas 95 M3
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#7. Re: Suspension noise - from Tobin Finley
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Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 21:51:00 -0500 From: Tobin Finley <tfinley@fdt.net> Subject: Re: Suspension noise Mark, I had the same problem on my car recently. After installing Bilsteins and H&R Sports, a rattle started in the front suspension and got worse and worse until it sounded like the front subframe was about to fall off. I checked all nuts and bolts manually several times, and nothing was loose. I could never reproduce the sound while the car was standing still until Larry at Redline Autowerks helped me locate it. Instead of rocking the car, We tried pulling up on the fender to move the suspension, and voila, it started clunking. A rubber mallet will never work. I watched the suspension, while he moved it, and saw that the sway bar ends and the sway bar connectors to the Bilsteins were the culprits. It turns out that, although the bolts were tight, they were not tight enough. To fix the problem, we put a washer on the sway bar link-strut bolt, and tightened both ends of the link with an impact wrench. The creaking/clunking is gone, and I couldn't be happier!!! I also had the click you describe, and thought it to be the brake caliper. I have all clips in place. However, now that the sway bar is tight, the click is gone. It must've been the same issue. Do yourself a favor and revisit the sway bar with an impact wrench or breaker bar. Tobin '95 M3 - clunk/creak/click free > >-------------------- 5 -------------------- >Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2002 13:02:46 -0400 (EDT) >From: "Mark Greer" <mark.greer@excite.com> >Subject: Suspension noise -- update. > > Many here responded providing suggestions as to what could cause >clunking in the front end after new struts were installed. This >occurs mainly when I travel over small bumps or expansion joints. I >re-tightened sway bar link ends and all strut bolts, but the noise >remained. On further inspection, it appears that the outboard brake >pad retaining clips are missing. There is a similar noise when I >tap the brake caliper with a rubber mallet [I was banging all over >the suspension in search of a loose component]. Yesterday, as I >was slowing to stop I noticed a small click as I depressed the brake >pedal.I could repeat at will and this led me to think that this may >all be related. Question: Has anyone lost the front brake caliper >pad clips, and did it produce the 'clunk' or the 'click' I'm >experiencing? Either way I'm buying and installing the clips, but >I'd like some satisfaction that this may quiet the car. Mark97 M3/4
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Alternator Pulley Install w/Evosport Pulley's - from Jon S.
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Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 21:03:39 -0600 From: "Jon S." <treehouse@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Alternator Pulley Install w/Evosport Pulley's Or,,,, Even better, use the OLD serpentine belt (assuming you are putting a new one one) that way you can really crank on the belt and not worry about damaging the belt since you have a replacement. Jon ----- Original Message ----- From: "NickG" <nick@tech-nick.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Sunday, October 27, 2002 7:04 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Alternator Pulley Install w/Evosport Pulley's > Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 19:56:05 -0500 > From: "NickG" <nick@tech-nick.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Alternator Pulley Install w/Evosport Pulley's > > Wrap the serpentine belt around it, then use the channel lock pliers over > the belt. The other method is to use an impact gun (what I would do). > > Nick > > > Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 15:56:45 -0800 > > From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> > > Subject: Alternator Pulley Install w/Evosport Pulley's > > > > I got a set of those Evosport Pulley's. Got them installed > > ok, and belts are on. The problem is that I cannot find a > > way to hold the alternator pulley down. I use channel lock > > plies to hold it down to remove it, but the aluminum > > is a lot slippier, plus I don't want to scar it, so I have been > > using towels. But it keeps slipping. Anyone know of a way > > to lock down the alternator to tighten the nut? I don't think > > it is much more than hand tight right now. > > > > The other Chris who is working on his car today! > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#9. M50/S50 Water Pump and Thermostat Replacement - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 23:36:31 -0500 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: M50/S50 Water Pump and Thermostat Replacement I'm in the process of replacing the cooling system components in my E34 (M50 engine), and I had a few questions. The car has 154k miles on it, and I've driven 101k of the total. I've never replaced the water pump, and I don't believe that the previous owner did. Q1) There is no mention of using any type of a sealer between the thermostat cover and the engine block. So, the thermostat gasket and the second rubber gasket under the cover are all that's needed? No sealants (Permatex) is used? The Bentley manual doesn't say anything about it, but I didn't want to assume that no mention means nothing required. The water pump has a metal impeller. The impeller is silver, sort of a spot-welded piece with eight blades. The replacement pump (from BMP) is a Graf pump. It also has a metal impeller, but it's one of those cast pieces, it's black in color, and it only has seven blades. Q2) I'm concerned about putting in a pump with fewer blades on the impeller. The factory pump looks (to me) like it'll be a better pump. Has anyone installed a Graf pump? Any problems? Thanks! Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata _________________________________________________________________ Choose an Internet access plan right for you -- try MSN! http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp
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#10. Re: [E36M3] M50/S50 Water Pump and Thermostat Replacement - from Chris Teague
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Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2002 20:59:04 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] M50/S50 Water Pump and Thermostat Replacement Ron, For Q1, the thermostat housing, the thermostat o-ring and funny shaped rubber gastket are all that is needed. No permatex required. For Q2, my 97 M3 also had a sheet metal impeller, and the replacement one was cast. No idea which is better though. Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Sunday, October 27, 2002 8:44 PM Subject: [E36M3] M50/S50 Water Pump and Thermostat Replacement > I'm in the process of replacing the cooling system components in my E34 (M50 > engine), and I had a few questions. The car has 154k miles on it, and I've > driven 101k of the total. I've never replaced the water pump, and I don't > believe that the previous owner did. > > Q1) There is no mention of using any type of a sealer between the thermostat > cover and the engine block. So, the thermostat gasket and the second rubber > gasket under the cover are all that's needed? No sealants (Permatex) is > used? The Bentley manual doesn't say anything about it, but I didn't want > to assume that no mention means nothing required. > > The water pump has a metal impeller. The impeller is silver, sort of a > spot-welded piece with eight blades. The replacement pump (from BMP) is a > Graf pump. It also has a metal impeller, but it's one of those cast pieces, > it's black in color, and it only has seven blades. > > Q2) I'm concerned about putting in a pump with fewer blades on the impeller. > The factory pump looks (to me) like it'll be a better pump. Has anyone > installed a Graf pump? Any problems?