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#1. pagid brake pads - from Scott Smith
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Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 14:31:00 -0800 From: Scott Smith <scott@gelatinous.com> Subject: pagid brake pads anyone know a cheap (online?) source for Pagid racing brake pads? Scott
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#2. clutch - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 17:51:45 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: clutch Anybody know where to buy a Sachs Sport clutch for an E36 M3? Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Help: Rear Strut Tower Brace Install - from Bob Stommel
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Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 18:02:46 -0500 From: Bob Stommel <rstommel@iquest.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help: Rear Strut Tower Brace Install Scott: Chester is right. The Motorsport STB is adjustable in length, so it should be installed with the car on the ground. It is only necessary to raise the front end of the car if a non-adjustable aftermarket STB won't otherwise line up with the strut tower holes. HTH, Bob Stommel (not at Bimmerhaus) ;-) >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 12:39:13 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help: Rear Strut Tower Brace Install Why would you raise the car? So the towers flex outwards and decrease (make more positive) your negative camber? Chester --- "Riley, Scott" <sriley@cardinalcapital.com> wrote: > I have the Motorsport front STB on my '95 M3 which is simple to install > (cliff notes: raise car, remove strut bolts, install brace, re-install and > torque strut bolts, lower car). However, the rear STB seems more difficult > in theory given the rear shock mounts (for the record, I have Ground Control > RSMs).
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#4. Anyone with the LTW decals? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 14:54:27 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Anyone with the LTW decals? Can someone send me a high res snappy-snap-snap of the passenger rear quarter? ....preferrably perpendicular to the surface, etc. TIA, Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
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#5. RE: Thanks, and a General Audio Question - from Mike Frank
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Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 19:54:48 -0500 From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: RE: Thanks, and a General Audio Question Shane, There's several ways to check it out, but I'd guess it's the amp. Speakers don't typically die completely. I'd double check all the connections first then check to see if the power light illuminates on the amp (if there is one). If you've got a multimeter you can easily check the amp to see if the power/ground/remote turn on connections are good and also check for signal on the output(s)/input(s). Depending on how easy it is you can try hooking up the outputs of the other amp to the sub. Depending on your configuration it might not sound very good, but it should confirm the sub (and sub wiring) are good. If you have spare speakers you could always try hooking one up to the sub amp (turn gain down first). If possible, swapping inputs (RCA connectors most likely) on the amps can uncover possible problems with wiring from the headunit or the headunit itself. If none of this helps there's more. Good Luck (staying warm too - used to live in Milwaukee), Mike Frank 97 M3 > -------------------- 7 -------------------- > Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 15:18:34 -0500 > From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com > Subject: Thanks, and a General Audio Question > > My question > is, how do I go > about determining what is busted? I figure there is just as much of a > chance that the sub is not working as there is that the amp > is not working. > But again, I am not a big stereo guy so I have never had to > diagnose audio > issues. Any suggestions will be appreciated, even though I > can't work on > the car until Friday (I'm currently freezing in Milwaukee). > > Thanks. > > Shane K. > > '96 M3 > '94 325i #335 KP
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#6. Math people - help with gearing? - from Rob
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Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 20:41:33 -0700 From: "Rob" <speedmaster@telus.net> Subject: Math people - help with gearing? Okay, my brain is a bit fuzzy tonight :) Can anyone please help me with this? I am trying to figure out the overall final drive for two combos. M3 trans, 3.15 diff, 235/40/17 tire (24.4" diameter) vs. M3 trans, 3.23 diff, 245/40/17 tire (24.7" diameter) My initial calculations show the 3.23 and 245/40 combo to be the slightly shorter geared of the two. Can anyone confirm? Thanks :) Rob
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Rolling Fender - update! - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 22:45:42 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rolling Fender - update! Here's a question though - who has a washer/spacer between the lower shock mounting hole and the control arm, where it attaches? The washer is a spacer to move the shock inboard about 1-2mm. My stock M3 shocks didn't have it. My Dinan shocks (Koni) didn't come with it. My friends Dinan (Koni) shocks did! This would clearly give me the clearance that I need. [Control arm]-(washer)-SHOCK--(bolt) Collin, Actually, that is the wrong way to mount the shocks. The washer (or spacer as you call it) should be on the inside, UNDER the bolt head. Why? If you look at the shock mounting loop, there is a steel sleeve inside of the rubber donut. When you mount the shock, you are basically bolting this inner sleeve to the control arm. The rubber donut can slide off the sleeve to the inside. I've seen one shock half way off the bolt. We had a "heck of a time" beating the shock back on so we could get to the bolt head. The washer is much larger than the bolt head so the rubber donut can't slide off the bolt. However, as you pointed out, many shocks don't have the built in washer. I'm surprised your OEM shocks did not. About half the Bilsteins have the washer. I don't think Koni has it. I'd recommend going to the hardware store and getting a couple of washers for this reason. I guess you could mount your shock either way. Just make sure you have either a store washer or the built-in washer under the bolt head. If you really need to move the shock inward, you could probably put 2 or 3 washers between the shock and the control arm with the built-in washer under the bolt. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 - Bilsteins with added store bought washers Dallas, Texas
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Stereo upgrade to be installed soon - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 19:46:55 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stereo upgrade to be installed soon At 11:15 AM 10/29/02 -0500, you wrote: >Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 08:04:46 -0800 (PST) >From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stereo upgrade to be installed soon > >While stereo discussion is on the table, I've found >that my system, which was just installed, has a >humming noise when there is a gap in the music that >appears to be directly related to engine rpms. I've >noticed this in previous (lesser) vehicles I've owned >when listnening to AM and going under a bridge. I >know next to nothing of electronics, but I'm guess >this is a result of improper grounding. Can anyone >confirm this? Or could something else be the cause? >And more importantly, is there a way to alleviate >this? > >Thanks, Jason Engine noise is usually caused by one of two things. 1) A ground loop. Different ground potentials between components in the system. 2) Induced noise caused by components or interconnects being too close to power/battery wires. Without knowing more about the design of your system, it's hard to hazard a guess. Many E36 systems exhibit at least a small amount of engine noise. Mine does and I have all the right stuff that's been installed correctly. I don't have enough to be concerned. It can also be caused by inferior amps or decks. Jay
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Math people - help with gearing? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 20:02:03 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Math people - help with gearing? This is pretty easy, no? Config #1: it takes 3.15 turns of the input shaft to travel 24.4 * pi inches. Therefore, 1 turn of the input shaft travels 7.75 * pi inches Config #2: The same yields 7.65 * pi inches. Therefore, config 2 is indeed shorter geared. Chester --- Rob <speedmaster@telus.net> wrote: > M3 trans, 3.15 diff, 235/40/17 tire (24.4" diameter) > > vs. > > M3 trans, 3.23 diff, 245/40/17 tire (24.7" diameter) > > My initial calculations show the 3.23 and 245/40 combo to be the slightly > shorter geared of the two. Can anyone confirm? > > Thanks :) > Rob > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Math people - help with gearing? - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 23:33:10 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Math people - help with gearing? The equation for calculating your speed given engine speed is: engine rpm x 60(min/hr) / transmission ratio / rear end ratio x tire dia(in) x pi / 63360(in/mile) = miles/hr Assuming you use the same transmission gear, the only variables are rear end ratio and tire diameter. 3.15 w/ 235/40 tires => 24.4 / 3.15 = 7.746 3.23 w/ 245/40 tires => 24.7 / 3.23 = 7.647 Therefore, the 3.23 w/ 245/40 tires is geared slightly lower (about 1.3% lower). I often wonder if this slightly lower gearing for '96+ models vs. '95 M3 accounts for the quicker 0-60 mph acceleration of the '96+ M3. However, we just had a discussion of how some 245/40 tires rub and some don't. Tires of the same "size" vary in diameter. A "tall" 245/40 tire w/ 3.23 rear end might have higher gearing than a "short" 235/40 tire w/ 3.15 rear end. Same for a brand new 245/40 tire vs. a bald 235/40 tire. A bald tire has a smaller diameter than a new tire. Bottom line, both combos are real close. About all you can say for sure is oversized tires on the same car will increase the final drive ratio and reduce your drag race times. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas