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#1. Front speaker recommendations / headunit / antenna - from Mike Frank
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Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 17:54:40 -0500 From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: Front speaker recommendations / headunit / antenna I'm Thinking about putting a new headunit and new front speakers in the M3. Would be interested hearing what others have used and liked (or not liked). Good quality, but not audiophile stuff. Wouldn't want to drown out my UUC exhaust. :) Audio is not a priority in this car. Simple and low weight is. It won't take much to do better than a stock headunit (no display) and front speakers, one blown. I'm gonna try just a headunit with front speakers. Ideally looking for: 6.5" component (no shoebox crossovers) or coax that fits without magic tricks Efficient and sound good - I know, subjective Not $16,000/pair I put an Alpine CDA-7894 in my other car a few weeks ago and it's a pretty nice unit. Lots of usable features without a silly overcomplicated look. I had a hard time finding a true rms amp spec, but I wanna say it's around 20W rms x 4. Plenty for a set of speakers at reasonable levels. Actually, I might just swap the 7894 into the M3 and put a 7995 in the other car since it's got the full treatment (no need for power). Also, I remember someone getting wiring harness adapters and an antenna adapter for an M3 from Crutchfield. Is the antenna adapter for the diversity unit that was mentioned recently. I should probably go pull the deck out and have a look around. Thanks in advance, Mike Frank 97 M3
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#2. Radio buttons backlight no mas - from Rex Tener
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Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 14:56:33 -0800 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Radio buttons backlight no mas I have searched the archives, but I can't find an answer to my problem. I have a 1996 M3 with the stock stereo and the buttons on the radio are no longer backlit. The LCD display on the radio works and dims appropriately with the dash dimmer control. Any ideas? Maybe this is my excuse to get the CD43. :-) Thanks, Rex
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#3. [E36M3] overheat, overflow, budget overrun - from Cody_McCoy
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Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 14:56:54 -0800 From: Cody_McCoy <Cody_McCoy@sd.vrtx.com> Subject: [E36M3] overheat, overflow, budget overrun Group, Once again a fantastic response to my questions, diagnosis: broken upper hose neck on radiator 128,000 mi., remedy: new behr radiator...but damn it's plastic too!!!, thanks to all who replied, especially Mike Michalski and Chris Teague, for the early morning advice, thanks guys!!! -------------------- 10 -------------------- Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 16:54:37 -0500 From: Sam Langley <samrl@triad.rr.com> Subject: Fwd: [E36M3] overheat, overflow, budget overrun welcome to my world!!.. look at your return line at the top of the radiator on the drivers side.. pull the hose to see if the neck broke like mine did on sunday monday got new radiator and changed it myself, saving big money.. fairly easy install, no lift necessary sam Cody McCoy Prototype Machinist Instrumentation Research & Development Vertex Pharmaceuticals Incorporated 11010 Torreyana rd. San Diego, Ca 92121,USA Corporate (858) 404-5000 Direct (858) 404-6617 Fax (858)404-6727 mailto:Cody_McCoy@sd.vrtx.com
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#4. Bieffe F1-GP Helmet for Sale - from Ted W. Chan
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Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 20:16:51 -0800 From: "Ted W. Chan" <twc@peoplepc.com> Subject: Bieffe F1-GP Helmet for Sale Getting rid of some office props which happen to be fully functional = closed face helmets: F1-GP Diniz F1 Replica - Medium, amber & clear visor SA95 $300 F1-GP Paul Tracy "Girlie" Honda CART Replica - Medium, light grey & = clear visor SA2000 $350 See http://www.helmetcity.com/helmets/bieffe.html#f1gp for photos and = street pricing. Both are BRAND NEW, with Bieffe bag and spare visor = (about $40). Work great for both open wheel and closed cockpit driving = events/track school. Just in time for Andrie's track event in Nov! = Prefer local Silicon Valley buyers.
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#5. Online shopping - performance and alarm?? - from Paul Smith
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Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 23:54:47 -0500 From: Paul Smith <pauls@ontario.com> Subject: Online shopping - performance and alarm?? I just bought a 98 M3/4 5-speed from the Chicago area - pick it up Friday:) I would like to know where I can get a good price on a OEM alarm as well as getting a shark 'kit'. Where is a good place to get either? Also will be looking for: x-brace short shift kit Is K&N still the best? Stock? What conforti has to offer? thanks in advance Paul Smith 36 hrs from a 98 M3/4
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#6. Thanks for the baby seat tether info - from Msebmwman@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 00:46:41 EST From: Msebmwman@aol.com Subject: Thanks for the baby seat tether info To those that sent me a message or sent the group a message after I had asked; thanks for sending the information about the tether that could be installed in my 95 M3. Though it is not time yet I''ve kept the information for future use. Regards, Marc 95M3 (tetherless for now).
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#7. ?Temp gauge and warmup - from bmw
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 03:21:12 -0800 (PST) From: bmw <m3lawdawg@yahoo.com> Subject: ?Temp gauge and warmup Ok I know the weather is getting a little colder here in Charlotte, but this morning it was only 50*. The past couple of days driving the M3, 95 model, it seems it has taken the temp gauge an abnormal time to get to the middle. Today it stayed in the blue, until I got to work and pulled into the parking deck. The commute was on the interstate at 65mph for 32 miles and it never came out of the blue. Even driving around town it is taking longer for the car to show that it has warmed up. The therm. unit and housing have been replaced as well as the water pump about a year and a half ago. What do I need to check, where is the temp sensor on the car. There are no fault codes showing. I also turned on the heat to max temp and fan speed in the car, the air only felt luke warm compared to normal of running me out of the car. Tony __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
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#8. Re: In-Dash CD - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 09:06:47 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: In-Dash CD Thanks to several people for their responses on this subject. Bottom line is that the E46 unit wouldn't fit my E36 because its faceplate is wider than the DIN standard, but that the CD43 unit from the Z3 is a drop-in. Neil 96 M3
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Clutch Replacement - DIY or pay someone? - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 06:15:22 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Clutch Replacement - DIY or pay someone? At 10:53 AM 10/30/02 -0600, you wrote: >Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 11:51:49 -0500 >From: "Michael Schaublin" <mike_schaublin@hotmail.com> >Subject: Clutch Replacement - DIY or pay someone? > > >I'll be needing a clutch in the next 6 - 12 months. Is it feasible to do a >clutch job up on four jackstands? A local shop will do it for $650 >complete, but this shop is really bad for keeping appointments. I'd rather >do it myself if I know I can complete it over a weekend. > >Thanks, > >Mike Schaublin > I did mine that way. It's not an easy DIY but it ain't rocket science either. Be sure to get new pressure plate bolts. I rounded one off (very soft) and had a difficult time finding another on the weekend. Replace the throwout bearing and maybe the pilot bearing. I'd also suggest renting a tranny jack unless your pretty strong. The other thing is if you get the clutch out and find that the flywheel is bad, are you prepared to stop what you're doing until you are able to get a new flywheel? If you do replace the flywheel, use new flywheel bolts too. It took me the better part of 2 days. But, I'm old and don't move as fast as I used to. I also spent extra time drilling out one of the pressure plate bolts and tracking down a new one. Good luck - Jay
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#10. [OT]: Mac game attack - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 06:34:28 -0800 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: [OT]: Mac game attack OK, since we're all computer users, you may want to see this: >Hilarious spoof Mac/Switch advert (13.5 MB) > >http://www.columbia.edu/~tdb29/dg_switch.mov :-) -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#11. Re: [E36M3] Re: Alighnment Differences (long for info) - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 06:43:09 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Alighnment Differences (long for info) Brad- I'm going thru a similar situation, post accident. It could be that crash bolts (smaller diameter upper bolt connecting strut to steering arm) were used, to correct an alignment problem, at the time of the original accident repair. Those things can loosen up and change the alignment settings. Especially, if you've hit speed bumps or whatever. If this was previously done, it means there was frame or shock tower damage that was not corrected properly and they opted for the band-aid method. It's also possible that the mounting points on your left c/o have been bent/moved as a result of your "distraction". These are only two possibilities. I'm sure there are others. I my case, I'm told that the frame and shock towers are perfect after tweaking/bending or whatever. They've replaced both lower control arms and the crossmember. They say the steering arms are OK. There is still .5 degree too much negative camber on the right side. Funny thing is that the accident was to the left front corner. But, pushed things to the right. I've noticed a difference in the tire-to-strut clearance between the sides. At the top of the tires, right side has ~.4" and the left has ~.2". They're going to get me a new strut housing for the right side. I'll cut n gut to install my Koni SA and we'll see what happens. If anyone has any ideas, I'd like some help too. If anyone has knowledge of what SAI or included angle measurements should be, please contact me. The guys at the repair facility say BMW cannot provide them with any specs. Thanks - Jay At 12:13 PM 10/30/02 -0600, you wrote: >Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 10:11:41 -0800 (PST) >From: Brad Ahrens <txsaggie97@yahoo.com> >Subject: Re: Alighnment Differences (long for info) > >First off thanks to everyone who weighed in on my low >coolant warning issue after replacing the rad. Level >is good and stays constant so it looks like the sensor >didn't like being disturbed and will be checked and >replaced. > >New issue is alighnment. Yippee. I'm off .7 deg. > >Neg camber: Drivers side is 1.5 and pass side is .8 >Wheel gap - center of rim to fender: d=12.5" p=13" >(rears are equal) > >Background: >Suspension is H&R coilover kit. Three threads up on >each side - even. Car was hit prior to my purchase >(big rear / light front - only supposed just trailer >hitch to rad) but alighned fine according to some >yahoo shop. I regret not asking for the printout at >the time but I was less informed than even now - not a >gearhead prior to M3 purchase (ahem ford ranger ahem) >but always loved cars. Anyway... > >Since then no accidents but I have run over 4 or um so >of those large "DD" road bump titties. The ones like >3" tall and 5-6" in dia. (Don't ask - I was >distracted and not in a good way). Impact was hard >enough to bend both my driv side new (2wks at the >time) superleggeras -17s. Front had 2 good sized flat >spots rear 1 smaller. H&R c/o's NOT on the car at the >time. > >Possibilities? >1. Bent control arm? "Looks" ok..but.. >2. Bent shock? H&Rs haven't hit anything more than >occasional pothole. >3. Runnng the slightly bent rim up front on drivers >side..inside edge balances fine..getting fixed soon. >Wishfull thinking this would be it. Have to be bent >badly I would think. >4. Bent frame? Ugh. I do seem to remember during my >Euro frt spring guinea pig chapter that the pass side >of the car was higher as well (pre-road titty >incident) but I would have thought the alighnment >monkeys (not at the current shop - old shop) would >have mentioned the discrepancy when I asked... > >Would love to hear opinions aside from #4. > >Thinking about maybe changing control arms (70k on >current) and front control arm bushings (maybe >powerflex) while I am in there. If that doesn't fix >then shimming and living with it? Maybe some camber >plates? Or even using the c/o to even up the wheel >gap in front in the hopes of evening camber? (prob bad >idea shock travel wise?) > >TIA >Brad >97 - M3/4 with 70k miles where everything is >approaching "that time" > >__________________________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now >http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/ > > >************************************************************* >List Commands >UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. >DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. >GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > >To issue a command/request to the server: >Send a message with the command you wish executed as the >subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. >************************************************************* > > >