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#1. Re: [E36M3] Front speaker recommendations / headunit / antenna - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 06:56:05 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Front speaker recommendations / headunit / antenna At 05:04 PM 10/30/02 -0600, you wrote: >Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 17:54:40 -0500 >From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> >Subject: Front speaker recommendations / headunit / antenna > >I'm Thinking about putting a new headunit and new front speakers in the >M3. Would be interested hearing what others have used and liked (or not >liked). Good quality, but not audiophile stuff. Wouldn't want to drown >out my UUC exhaust. :) Audio is not a priority in this car. Simple and >low weight is. It won't take much to do better than a stock headunit >(no display) and front speakers, one blown. I'm gonna try just a >headunit with front speakers. Ideally looking for: > >6.5" component (no shoebox crossovers) or coax that fits without magic >tricks >Efficient and sound good - I know, subjective >Not $16,000/pair > >I put an Alpine CDA-7894 in my other car a few weeks ago and it's a >pretty nice unit. Lots of usable features without a silly >overcomplicated look. I had a hard time finding a true rms amp spec, >but I wanna say it's around 20W rms x 4. Plenty for a set of speakers >at reasonable levels. Actually, I might just swap the 7894 into the M3 >and put a 7995 in the other car since it's got the full treatment (no >need for power). > >Also, I remember someone getting wiring harness adapters and an antenna >adapter for an M3 from Crutchfield. Is the antenna adapter for the >diversity unit that was mentioned recently. I should probably go pull >the deck out and have a look around. > >Thanks in advance, > >Mike Frank >97 M3 > If you're going to power the new speakers with the deck you install, you should stay with coaxials. Component speakers should be used with an amp. I would not try to power coaxials with the factory amp. If you want to keep the factory amp and the same component type setup, you need to replace the bad drivers with a like driver. The midbasses are pretty easy. The tweeters are not so easy unless you go to Mr. BMW. The kickpanel midbass is a 5.25". You can do 6.5" if you get your dremel out. As far as I know, there is no facility to do a diversity antenna with an aftermarket deck. You can get the wire harness adapter and the Euro antenna adapter at your local car audio store or Crutchfield or other internet sources. Questions, let me know. Jay
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#2. RE: Front speaker recommendations / headunit / antenna - from Dahlstrand, Kurt
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 10:33:46 -0500 From: "Dahlstrand, Kurt" <kdahlstrand@empirix.com> Subject: RE: Front speaker recommendations / headunit / antenna Mike, I installed the Alpine CDA-7894 in my M3 several months ago. It is a vast improvement over the stock head unit. The most noticeable improvement, in my opinion, was the sound clarity of FM radio stations. I think CDs also sound a little better. Beyond that, you also have a lot more control over the bass/treble compared with the stock unit. As for a wiring harness and antenna adapter, as long as you have the correct models there isn't any addition work that needs to be done. In fact, I have an extra un-opened wiring harness and antenna adapter lying around somewhere. I could be convinced to pass it along for cheap. I haven't replaced any of the factory HK speakers yet, so I can't offer any opinions on that. Though, I will probably go down this road in the next few months. You may want to check out http://rintintin.colorado.edu/~fraderth/. Someone on the list did a survey of various car audio components a while back and posted it on the net. I just checked it and it's still up. Might give you some ideas on speakers. BTW, I don't think 6.5" will fit in the kickpanel without cutting. -Kurt '97/4 M3 -----Original Message----- Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 17:54:40 -0500 From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> Subject: Front speaker recommendations / headunit / antenna I'm Thinking about putting a new headunit and new front speakers in the M3. Would be interested hearing what others have used and liked (or not liked). Good quality, but not audiophile stuff. Wouldn't want to drown out my UUC exhaust. :) Audio is not a priority in this car. Simple and low weight is. It won't take much to do better than a stock headunit (no display) and front speakers, one blown. I'm gonna try just a headunit with front speakers. Ideally looking for: 6.5" component (no shoebox crossovers) or coax that fits without magic tricks Efficient and sound good - I know, subjective Not $16,000/pair I put an Alpine CDA-7894 in my other car a few weeks ago and it's a pretty nice unit. Lots of usable features without a silly overcomplicated look. I had a hard time finding a true rms amp spec, but I wanna say it's around 20W rms x 4. Plenty for a set of speakers at reasonable levels. Actually, I might just swap the 7894 into the M3 and put a 7995 in the other car since it's got the full treatment (no need for power). Also, I remember someone getting wiring harness adapters and an antenna adapter for an M3 from Crutchfield. Is the antenna adapter for the diversity unit that was mentioned recently. I should probably go pull the deck out and have a look around. Thanks in advance, Mike Frank 97 M3
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#3. Front speaker recommendations / headunit / antenna - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 10:37:43 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Front speaker recommendations / headunit / antenna Frank, >>6.5" component (no shoebox crossovers) or coax that fits without magic tricks Efficient and sound good - I know, subjective Not $16,000/pair<< First, the mid woofers in the front kick panel are 5 1/4, not 6 1/2. Second, I think youll find that the HU upgrade will improve things alot, and the speakers some. But if youve gone that far, realize that the stock amp totally stinks. Probably puts out around 15v rms, if that. Go the extra step and get an amp, and a couple of rear stealthbox subs, and youre done. I did mine, and the whole cost was under $1500, which is considered a mere pittance in this field. This is what I got: Kenwood Excelon Head Unit; Polk woofers and tweeters up front (alot of guys like MB Quartz speakers up front too) ; Stealthboxes for the rear deck; and 1 Kenwood Excelon 4 X 75 watt amp driving the whole thing. Two 75 watt channels drive the front speakers, and the other two channels are bridged to send 150 watts to each sub. I also bought a kenwood 6 CD changer for the trunk to work off the Head Unit. Anyway, its not quite 'audiophile' quality, however, my ears, which are pretty discerning, cant really tell the difference. It sounds awsome. The problem with upgrading the bmw system is that each component really sucks, and unless you upgrade all the components, whatever is remaining will drag down the quality of whatever youve replaced. Its only as good as its weakest link. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#4. Re: Clutch Replacement - DIY or pay someone? - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 12:53:05 -0500 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Clutch Replacement - DIY or pay someone? Mike, While I've never replaced a clutch, I would say that you can't do it with the car on jackstands, for the following reasons: 1) Lift height - You need to drop the transmission out and reinstall it, which means that the car needs to be high enough to allow you to work under the transmission, and pull it out. It's fairly heavy, to you need to be positioned in a way that you'll be able to handle a heavy load. Lying on your back is probably not that position. 2) Stability - You'll probably be rocking the car during the process of removal and installation (the tranny doesn't just slip in and out). I don't think that four small contact areas (hockey puck to narrow jackstand top) is necessarily the safest way to suspend the car when you're doing this. I'd say that this is one job where you should pay the professionals, or find someone willing to let you use their shop and lift. Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata >Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 11:51:49 -0500 >From: "Michael Schaublin" <mike_schaublin@hotmail.com> >Subject: Clutch Replacement - DIY or pay someone? > > >I'll be needing a clutch in the next 6 - 12 months. Is it feasible to do a >clutch job up on four jackstands? A local shop will do it for $650 >complete, but this shop is really bad for keeping appointments. I'd rather >do it myself if I know I can complete it over a weekend. > >Thanks, > >Mike Schaublin _________________________________________________________________ Internet access plans that fit your lifestyle -- join MSN. http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: Clutch Replacement - DIY or pay someone? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 10:04:39 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Clutch Replacement - DIY or pay someone? Guys, If you take the necessary safety precautions, I don't see why this couldn't be a DIY job. To date, I've done it three times with nothing more than 4 jackstands, hand tools and a helping hand. You will need a long extension (I think my Snap-On one is 3 feet) and three different reverse torx sockets (Wayne got these from Steve D). Other than that, a standard torque wrench and a clutch alignment thing. We used Wayne's jackstands that were the TruCut ones with the Ron Stygar jack adapter plates. With that setup, I wasn't worried at all that the car would shift. If I didn't have that, I would take the hockey pucks off and use wood or something. HTH, Chester --- Ron Buchalski <rbuchals@hotmail.com> wrote: > While I've never replaced a clutch, I would say that you can't do it with > the car on jackstands, for the following reasons: > > 1) Lift height - You need to drop the transmission out and reinstall it, > which means that the car needs to be high enough to allow you to work under > the transmission, and pull it out. It's fairly heavy, to you need to be > positioned in a way that you'll be able to handle a heavy load. Lying on > your back is probably not that position. > > 2) Stability - You'll probably be rocking the car during the process of > removal and installation (the tranny doesn't just slip in and out). I don't > think that four small contact areas (hockey puck to narrow jackstand top) is > necessarily the safest way to suspend the car when you're doing this. > > I'd say that this is one job where you should pay the professionals, or find > someone willing to let you use their shop and lift. ===== __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
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#6. Re: [E36M3] ?Temp gauge and warmup - from Joe Dyer
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 10:14:02 -0800 From: "Joe Dyer" <joedyer@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] ?Temp gauge and warmup Tony, In all likelihood your thermostat is stuck in the open position. The problem wouldn't be in a sensor or your heater wouldn't be luke warm. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "bmw" <m3lawdawg@yahoo.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2002 3:24 AM Subject: [E36M3] ?Temp gauge and warmup > Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 03:21:12 -0800 (PST) > From: bmw <m3lawdawg@yahoo.com> > Subject: ?Temp gauge and warmup > > Ok I know the weather is getting a little colder here > in Charlotte, but this morning it was only 50*. > > The past couple of days driving the M3, 95 model, it > seems it has taken the temp gauge an abnormal time to > get to the middle. > Today it stayed in the blue, until I got to work and > pulled into the parking deck. The commute was on the > interstate at 65mph for 32 miles and it never came out > of the blue. > Even driving around town it is taking longer for the > car to show that it has warmed up. > > The therm. unit and housing have been replaced as well > as the water pump about a year and a half ago. > > What do I need to check, where is the temp sensor on > the car. > There are no fault codes showing. > I also turned on the heat to max temp and fan speed in > the car, the air only felt luke warm compared to > normal of running me out of the car. > > Tony > > > __________________________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now > http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/ > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Online shopping - performance and alarm?? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 10:37:16 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Online shopping - performance and alarm?? At 09:04 PM 10/30/02, Paul Smith wrote: >I just bought a 98 M3/4 5-speed from the Chicago area - pick it up Friday:) Congratulations! Great car choice (see below :-)) >I would like to know where I can get a good price on a OEM alarm Probably a good place is any mail order dealer. In your area, The BMW Store in Cincinnati would be a good choice (http://www.bmwstore.com/). I highly recommend joining BMW CCA (http://www.bmwcca.org/) - there are many advertisers in the Roundel that offer discounts. >as well as >getting a shark 'kit'. I get all my JimC stuff direct from the source - Eurosport (http://eurosporthighperformance.com/) >Also will be looking for: >x-brace I think I got mine form the dealer - maybe someone else has a better suggestion(?). >short shift kit Rogue Engineering (http://www.rogueengineering.com/) >Is K&N still the best? Stock? What conforti has to offer? I've got a JimC intake on both of my cars. I'm very happy with them. Cheers, Jim Bassett (Chicago native :-)) 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 KP
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#8. Re: A new record? Replacing an E36M3 - very long but a good story - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 11:47:29 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: Re: A new record? Replacing an E36M3 - very long but a good story Wayne wrote: "....are you ready.....$8,200/year!!!! ....then John wrote: "...an M3 in Germany (with) no insurance history you could pay over $20 000 in the first year. :( That betters my story...I was in the UK for a year and looked into the purchase of an EVOII...insurance quotes of 4800 GBPs or right around $7500 with no history! KLBurgess
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#9. Bosh Wiper refills - from Rex Tener
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 12:40:08 -0800 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Bosh Wiper refills What happened to Bosh wiper refills? I used to be able to go into any national chain auto parts store in the SF Bay Area and be able to buy the 21" and 20" Bosch wiper refills for my E36 M3's wipers. Now there are none, zilch, to be found. Oh, if I want to buy a "universal" Bosh wiper I can, but I can't buy the refills for that wiper either. I checked bimmerparts.com and they sell a "universal" bosch wiper for the E36 M3, but they list the same part number for the left and right wipers. As any E36 M3 owner knows, the left and right wipers can't possible be the same part number because they are different lengths. So are they selling the 21" wipers for both sides and you have cut one wiper down? Or are they selling you 20" wipers for both sides and now you have one wiper is one inch short? Then they list the very same part number for my 2001 M Coupe which has 19" wipers on both side. How can that be? If anyone knows where I can buy Bosh refills in the SF Bay Area or online I would really appreciate the information. My minor rant for the day. :-) Thanks, -- Rex Tener rex_tener@yahoo.com
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Bosh Wiper refills - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 15:54:07 -0500 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bosh Wiper refills At 02:44 PM 10/31/2002 -0600, Rex Tener wrote: >Now there are none, zilch, to be found. Oh, if I want to buy a >"universal" Bosh wiper I can, but I can't buy the refills for that wiper >either. I checked bimmerparts.com and they sell a "universal" bosch wiper >for the E36 M3, but they list the same part number for the left and right >wipers. As any E36 M3 owner knows, the left and right wipers can't >possible be the same part number because they are different lengths. So >are they selling the 21" wipers for both sides and you have cut one wiper >down? Or are they selling you 20" wipers for both sides and now you have >one wiper is one inch short? Then they list the very same part number for >my 2001 M Coupe which has 19" wipers on both side. How can that be? They've been increasingly hard to find in eastern Pennsylvania, so I feel your pain. Unfortunately I can't help you there. But I can suggest a good trick as far as buying the right sizes. Just buy a refill 2-pack for both the 20" and 21" sizes. You'll then have a pair of both sizes for now, and a pair of both sizes for the next set. It's handy to have an extra set around anyway, especially if you have to work to find them now! - Chris