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#1. Changing Brake fluid - from Michael Schaublin
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Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2002 21:55:51 -0500 From: "Michael Schaublin" <mike_schaublin@hotmail.com> Subject: Changing Brake fluid <Johnny Lee wrote> >I have finally decided to get my hands dirty and plan to change the >brake >fluid myself (never done it before.) I am looking to see if >there are >things that I need to watch out from your experience. It's a pretty straightforward job. You'll need the front on stands to get to the calipers and the clutch slave cylinder. The back is easier if the car is up on four stands. More room to move around. > >I plan to follow the following procedure: > >-Get a pump from BMP Good product. Step two is to open the master cylinder, remove the plastic sleeve around the level sensor, and use a turkey baster to remove as much fluid from the cylinder as possible. Top off the fluid level with new fluid. >-Put one liter of fluid in the pump and connect it to the master >cylinder. >-Apply pressure (not sure how much pressure I should apply.) 20 PSI. More will drive bubbles into the system. Be sure to check the seal at the master cylinder for leaks as you apply pressure. >-Follow Bentley's procedure to bleed the brake and clutch Good. You'll need a few feet of 1/4" tubing and a 1/2 or 1 liter bottle with a hole drilled in the lid and the tubing shoved through. Make it a tight fit so the fluid won't leak when you inevitably knock the full bottle over. It's useful to bend up a wire hanger and hang the bottle from the car underbody as well. I use a 1/2 liter catch bottle, knowing I won't run the bleeder or master cylinder dry that way. I've also found using a 7mm box end wrench reduces the chances of sripping the corners on the bleed nipple, as I always seem to do with an open end wrench. >-Watch out and not get the fluid on any painted surface. > >My main concern is that I don't know how to differentiate between >old/new >fluid other than getting different color one. The car has ATE >Superblue >in it. I still have a liter left in my house. Should I get >the amber one >or would I be able to tell the difference between old Be sure your tubing is clear, not translucent. Get the ATE gold, and it is pretty easy to tell. Use the can of blue next year. >and new "blue" fluid? Is there any special area that I need to watch >out >for to avoid getting air in the system? If you want to be extra thourough, change the fluid, go out and activate the ABS to flush new fluid into the valves, and change it again (then you can use the blue fluid ;>) Lastly, dispose of the brake fluid properly. I have 3L of it in my garage, 'cause I haven't found a center that will take it. The whole job should take less than 1/2 hour. _________________________________________________________________ Choose an Internet access plan right for you -- try MSN! http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp
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#2. When to change shocks - from Michael Schaublin
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Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2002 21:59:35 -0500 From: "Michael Schaublin" <mike_schaublin@hotmail.com> Subject: When to change shocks Jason, The best time to replace shocks is when the car is brand new and the OEM parts still have a high resale value. After 30K they are usually toast, and are extremely expensive from the dealer. Go with Koni's (my choice) or Bilsteins. Get a streetline or trackline kit from TC Kline - with the kit discount the springs are virtually free. Mike _________________________________________________________________ Broadband? Dial-up? Get reliable MSN Internet Access. http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp
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#3. H&R springs?, oesport vs.sport vs.race - from GGray657@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 23:14:35 EST From: GGray657@aol.com Subject: H&R springs?, oesport vs.sport vs.race I am going to do the suspension on my car (in DEC) and can't decide what spring to use. I will use the car to Instruct with at Schools, and to autocross next year. I also go driving back roads with it too. I would like to use the race springs for the higher spring rate but am concerned about bottoming out the car, and not enough travel for back road running and street use. Our roads are not exactly smooth. Anyone running the Race springs on the street with not good roads. I have even thought about using the OE sport springs to retain suspension travel. Also does anyone have the top speed of a 95 with Euro AFM, #24lb injectors and chip, and Alum flywheel? Just curious? I have a collection of parts to put on in DEC including the above. It will have a 3.23LS diff also. Gary
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#4. Re: [E36M3] H&R springs?, oesport vs.sport vs.race - from DocWyte
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Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 20:32:02 -0800 (PST) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] H&R springs?, oesport vs.sport vs.race Considering the track and auto-x use that you're doing, why not get the Ground Control coilovers? That way you can get the stiffness and ride height you want. -josh --- GGray657@aol.com wrote: > Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 23:14:35 EST > From: GGray657@aol.com > Subject: H&R springs?, oesport vs.sport vs.race > > > I am going to do the suspension on my car (in DEC) > and can't decide what > spring to use. I will use the car to Instruct with > at Schools, and to > autocross next year. I also go driving back roads > with it too. I would like > to use the race springs for the higher spring rate > but am concerned about > bottoming out the car, and not enough travel for > back road running and street > use. Our roads are not exactly smooth. Anyone > running the Race springs on the > street with not good roads. I have even thought > about using the OE sport > springs to retain suspension travel. > > Also does anyone have the top speed of a 95 with > Euro AFM, #24lb injectors > and chip, and Alum flywheel? Just curious? I have a > collection of parts to > put on in DEC including the above. It will have a > 3.23LS diff also. > > > Gary > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the > list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the > requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as > the > subject of the message to the email address > e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > ===== Josh Wyte Momentum Motorsports 508-833-3024 After 5 pm EST __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
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#5. RE: When to change shocks - from Olin, Jason (NIH/NIMH)
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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 07:15:54 -0500 From: "Olin, Jason (NIH/NIMH)" <jolin@mail.nih.gov> Subject: RE: When to change shocks Mike- Hindsight is 20-20. Thanks for the idea for the next car. Jason -----Original Message----- From: Michael Schaublin To: Olin, Jason (NIH/NIMH); e36m3@bmw-m.net Sent: 11/1/2002 9:59 PM Subject: When to change shocks Jason, The best time to replace shocks is when the car is brand new and the OEM parts still have a high resale value. After 30K they are usually toast, and are extremely expensive from the dealer. Go with Koni's (my choice) or Bilsteins. Get a streetline or trackline kit from TC Kline - with the kit discount the springs are virtually free. Mike _________________________________________________________________ Broadband? Dial-up? Get reliable MSN Internet Access. http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp
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#6. Shock options - TC Kline Trackline kit? - from Shelhart2@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 19:26:33 EST From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: Shock options - TC Kline Trackline kit? My 98 M3 has about 65k and it is time to change shocks. What is the group consensus on the TC Kline kits? Has anyone installed the Trackline kit? Questions: 1. I am running 235 40's all the way around. Will the .05" drop cause me any issues (even with weight in the back seat)? 2. What other options might I consider in a similar price point (prefer entire kit)? 3. How harsh is the ride with the trackline kit as compared with stock suspension? This is a daily driver and has seen only one track event. Future autocrosses planned... 4. Can anyone give me a ball park on labor installation (flat rate manual fine)? Thanks in advance. Shel Hart
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#7. Bosch Wiper Blades - Where did the wing go? - from Chris Teague
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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 17:04:29 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Bosch Wiper Blades - Where did the wing go? Rex got me thinking about my wiper blades. They were only 5.5 years old, and it could rain any day now in South. Calif. So I got a set of Bosch Micro Edge blades (I couldn't find any refills either. These say they are better that the ones with replaceable blades for some reason.). Anyway, I put them on the car, but my OEM blades had a little wing on the drivers blade. I saw no way to transfer it over. Should I care? I don't drive that fast in the rain anyway. Should I put a dealer replacement blade in the OEM holder? Chris 97 M3/4
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#8. brake rotor wear - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 22:36:58 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: brake rotor wear Group, Does anyone know what the minimum front rotor thickness is? My Bentley manual has a misprint. It says 26.4mm or 0.977". Well, 26.4mm is not 0.977" :-P Which is it, 26.4mm or 24.8mm??? I measured mine at 26.6mm, if it's 26.4mm I'm getting close! Anyone, know what thickness they are when new? TIA, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion '97 & '00 BSP Champion '01 & '02
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Shock options - TC Kline Trackline kit? - from Joe Dyer
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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 19:59:12 -0800 From: "Joe Dyer" <joedyer@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shock options - TC Kline Trackline kit? Shel, How do you know the shocks need replacing? Push down on the car real hard. Does it oscillate a few cycles or does it just return to its resting state? If the former, they need replacing. If the latter, you are good for many more miles. You should do a few autocrosses bone stock, as well as a track day or two. Then when you get some experience, you can start thinking about modifying your car. Just get the driver modified first! Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: <Shelhart2@aol.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Saturday, November 02, 2002 4:34 PM Subject: [E36M3] Shock options - TC Kline Trackline kit? > Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 19:26:33 EST > From: Shelhart2@aol.com > Subject: Shock options - TC Kline Trackline kit? > > > My 98 M3 has about 65k and it is time to change shocks. What is the group > consensus on the TC Kline kits? Has anyone installed the Trackline kit? > > Questions: > 1. I am running 235 40's all the way around. Will the .05" drop cause me > any issues (even with weight in the back seat)? > > 2. What other options might I consider in a similar price point (prefer > entire kit)? > > 3. How harsh is the ride with the trackline kit as compared with stock > suspension? This is a daily driver and has seen only one track event. > Future autocrosses planned... > > 4. Can anyone give me a ball park on labor installation (flat rate manual > fine)? > > Thanks in advance. > > Shel Hart > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > >
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#10. E36 radiators on e-bay - from Carguymb@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 08:39:32 EST From: Carguymb@aol.com Subject: E36 radiators on e-bay Given some of the recent radiator/cooling system discussions, I thought this might be of interest: Zygmunt Motors has an e-bay dutch auction for radiators, starting at $118. No bids yet, 20 radiators available. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1871474225&rd=1 No affiliation, just seemed like a good deal compared to the normal $140-ish, yadda, yadda (although in the interests of full disclosure, I've bought stuff from Ziggy, and once parked next to the crew from Zymunt at a driving school). Martin Bullen '95 M3 (55k miles, thinking of bidding; don't take 'em all guys) '97 Z3 2.8