-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re: [E36M3] Shock options - TC Kline Trackline kit? - from Jay W. Hudson
Top
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2002 06:10:17 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shock options - TC Kline Trackline kit? At 06:34 PM 11/2/02 -0600, you wrote: >Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 19:26:33 EST >From: Shelhart2@aol.com >Subject: Shock options - TC Kline Trackline kit? > > >My 98 M3 has about 65k and it is time to change shocks. What is the group >consensus on the TC Kline kits? Has anyone installed the Trackline kit? > >Questions: >1. I am running 235 40's all the way around. Will the .05" drop cause me >any issues (even with weight in the back seat)? > >2. What other options might I consider in a similar price point (prefer >entire kit)? > >3. How harsh is the ride with the trackline kit as compared with stock >suspension? This is a daily driver and has seen only one track event. >Future autocrosses planned... > >4. Can anyone give me a ball park on labor installation (flat rate manual >fine)? > >Thanks in advance. > >Shel Hart I have the Streetline kit. The spring rates are the same on both kits. The ride is more firm than stock, but not at all harsh. Big improvement. With the Koni SAs, you can adjust for different conditions or preferences. A sissy soft ride for around town or a more aggressive setup for auto-x or track days. Be sure to get the Ground Control RSMs so you can drop the rear shocks from under the car. The front shocks are easily adjustable from the engine compartment. But, unless you get the Koni DAs for the rear, the rears have to be removed from the car to be adjusted. With the GC RSMs, it's a pretty easy one man job. Jay
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Re: [E36M3] Shock options - TC Kline Trackline kit? - from DocWyte
Top
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 07:21:48 -0800 (PST) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shock options - TC Kline Trackline kit? TC Kline now has externally single adjustable rear Koni shocks. They cost ~$80 more for the pair. I have them and like them. No need to remove the shock from the car to adjust it. -josh --- "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> wrote: > Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2002 06:10:17 -0800 > From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shock options - TC Kline > Trackline kit? > > At 06:34 PM 11/2/02 -0600, you wrote: > >Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 19:26:33 EST > >From: Shelhart2@aol.com > >Subject: Shock options - TC Kline Trackline kit? > > > > > >My 98 M3 has about 65k and it is time to change > shocks. What is the group > >consensus on the TC Kline kits? Has anyone > installed the Trackline kit? > > > >Questions: > >1. I am running 235 40's all the way around. Will > the .05" drop cause me > >any issues (even with weight in the back seat)? > > > >2. What other options might I consider in a > similar price point (prefer > >entire kit)? > > > >3. How harsh is the ride with the trackline kit as > compared with stock > >suspension? This is a daily driver and has seen > only one track event. > >Future autocrosses planned... > > > >4. Can anyone give me a ball park on labor > installation (flat rate manual > >fine)? > > > >Thanks in advance. > > > >Shel Hart > > I have the Streetline kit. The spring rates are the > same on both kits. > The ride is more firm than stock, but not at all > harsh. Big improvement. > With the Koni SAs, you can adjust for different > conditions or preferences. > A sissy soft ride for around town or a more > aggressive setup for auto-x or > track days. Be sure to get the Ground Control RSMs > so you can drop the > rear shocks from under the car. The front shocks > are easily adjustable > from the engine compartment. But, unless you get > the Koni DAs for the > rear, the rears have to be removed from the car to > be adjusted. With the > GC RSMs, it's a pretty easy one man job. > > Jay > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the > list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the > requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as > the > subject of the message to the email address > e36m3@bmw-m.net. > ************************************************************* > > ===== Josh Wyte Momentum Motorsports 508-833-3024 After 5 pm EST __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Need help: Check engine light code: FE,FC - from Kin Fong
Top
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2002 11:39:59 -0500 From: Kin Fong <kfong@optonline.net> Subject: Need help: Check engine light code: FE,FC I always remove key before fill up the gas tank. But I'm keep getting check engine light code: FE,FC four times in 2 months period. Anyone have the same problem before? Is it time to get a new gas cap or????? Thanks, Kin 97'///M3 NJ Chapter
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. u-joints and center bearing - from tim robinson
Top
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 12:18:45 -0500 From: "tim robinson" <beemerbo@bellsouth.net> Subject: u-joints and center bearing Any one here know how to check if the center bearing or u-joints are bad? I've got a terrible vibration when accelerating up to about 30 mph in first,second or third. Usually starts fading away at 30. I've checked the bearing and u-joints the best I can by looking. No cracks and no play that I can see. any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Tim
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Re: [E36M3] u-joints and center bearing - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 09:49:02 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] u-joints and center bearing Not sure if many people know this, but the center bearing support is supposed to be pushed forward a few millimeters to place tension on it. It is possible that these crack and need replacement. Chester --- tim robinson <beemerbo@bellsouth.net> wrote: > Any one here know how to check if the center bearing or u-joints are > bad? I've got a terrible vibration when accelerating up to about 30 mph > in first,second or third. Usually starts fading away at 30. I've checked > the bearing and u-joints the best I can by looking. No cracks and no > play that I can see. any help would be greatly appreciated. ===== __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. H&R springs?, oesport vs.sport vs.race - from Steven Hazard
Top
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 17:23:56 -0500 From: "Steven Hazard" <98m3@attbi.com> Subject: H&R springs?, oesport vs.sport vs.race Wow, three people asking suspension problems in one Digest! My ramblings>>>>> I'm a 10 year Autocrosser who occasionally goes to the track. My 98M3/4 is a very well sorted BSP car. I setup the car with the help of Bob Tunnell and other input including some people on this list. After the first year of owning and competing in it I researched all the suspension options available. After much deliberation I opted for TC Klines Race C/O setup with the Double Adjustable Konis's & TC's camber/caster plates. The springs are HR Linear Race..... 450lb fronts and 550lb rears........ The car is of course corner balanced also. The rears springs will bottom/bind quickly transmitting a ton of noise, and energy up into the rear towers on the street on somewhat rough roads. ....potholes, drop offs etc will cause this to happen. I can't remember the rear spring length (way to short) but with the adjustable perch I plan on going with a longer 550lb spring next near. I believe that will solve most of the rear problems. If your serious about competing I believe that you must run a linear spring vs. the progressive springs you mentioned such as H&R Sports.......... How does it feel on the street? Well I can feel every little dimple and bump, but its not that bad. You get used to it pretty quick.....On frost heaves, it will pogo on you, just too much spring in that situation.......But you do have to keep a watch out for potholes, speed bumps, badly broken pavement, etc. This setup along with some UUC swaybars set on soft/soft have the car dialed in perfect for serious Autocross work. Two Evolution Instructors could not get it to handle any better :-) On the track I can tweak the compression on the Koni's and again have a awesome track car. I'm also an Autocross Instructor up this way and have driven just about every possible suspension/spring package available. I'm extremely happy with it vs. the other packages I've driven, or instructed in. If you go any higher than these Spring rates you end up with a nasty street car, but a marginally faster track car. Some of the Club Racers who still autocross with us run 700-900 lb springs and are competitive at the track, but NOT AT AN AUTOCROSS......After the 500-550lb rates the M3 slowly drops off as a competitive car at an Autocross. We see 2 second deltas on 50-55 second courses between my car and a M3 with really stiff springs. The drivers are not the difference BTW :-) IMHO this is a great track/autocross compromise package with some loss of streetability. You can get sound advice from both Bob & Jim at Bimmerhaus, and Jay at Ground Control. Pick a Vendor, do your homework and pull the trigger! BTW Gary, If you want to chat further drop me a note and we can hook up on the phone... Cheers, Steve -------------------- 3 -------------------- Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 23:14:35 EST From: GGray657@aol.com Subject: H&R springs?, oesport vs.sport vs.race I am going to do the suspension on my car (in DEC) and can't decide what spring to use. I will use the car to Instruct with at Schools, and to autocross next year. I also go driving back roads with it too. I would like to use the race springs for the higher spring rate but am concerned about bottoming out the car, and not enough travel for back road running and street use. Our roads are not exactly smooth. Anyone running the Race springs on the street with not good roads. I have even thought about using the OE sport springs to retain suspension travel. Also does anyone have the top speed of a 95 with Euro AFM, #24lb injectors and chip, and Alum flywheel? Just curious? I have a collection of parts to put on in DEC including the above. It will have a 3.23LS diff also. Gary
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. How to Remove Brake Light Switch? - from Lew Becker
Top
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 14:33:49 -0800 From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> Subject: How to Remove Brake Light Switch? Can someone please tell me the trick to getting the old brake light switch out of the bracket that holds it (so I can pop in the new one I've got, close up, and get back on the road)? Thanks. Lew Becker
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Suspension Questions - from Chad Milam
Top
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 15:13:35 -0800 (PST) From: Chad Milam <m_three99@yahoo.com> Subject: Suspension Questions Hello Group.... I am at the point in time where my stock suspension on my 99 M3 is pretty well shot. I was looking at Koni SA struts and shocks. Also, at the same time doing the E46 M3 RSM upgrade and urethane toe bushings. The car has ~67k on it. So my questions are: 1) Is there any thing that would be missing from this list? 2) Where is the best place to buy all of the items I am looking for? 3) Does anyone have a write up on the cut and gut procedure for the struts? 4) Anyone know where the "special" tools that BMW has for toe bushing replacement can be rented? Or is the tried and true, removal, and brute force bushing removal method the best? Or even what the going labor rate at a BMW shop for this should be? 5) Anything else I should be on the look out for when doing this R&R? On an unrelated note, does anyone have the P/N and price for the front lip/splitter (just the normal, box standard, e36 m3 one)? Sorry for the longish message, and thanks for the help/advice.... Chad 99 m3 cosmos __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Winter tires and storage of summer tires - from Paul Smith
Top
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 18:49:50 -0500 From: Paul Smith <pauls@ontario.com> Subject: Winter tires and storage of summer tires I am getting a set of winter tires and wheels for my '98 M3/4. Should I go 16 or 17 inch? I have Stock brakes. Is the Blizzac M-22 the way to go? Now, once I put these on for the season, do I store the other tire/wheels in a horizontal manner on top of each other? What is the preferred way? thanks Paul Smith 98 M3/4
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Shock options - TC Kline Trackline kit? - from KResener@aol.com
Top
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 18:50:36 EST From: KResener@aol.com Subject: Shock options - TC Kline Trackline kit? Shel, I just installed TC Kline's Trackline kit on my '95 M3 with 71k miles and couldn't be happier. Installed it in time for the DE at Mid Ohio last weekend and with the shocks at 1/8 turn off full firm on the rear and a half turn off full firm in the front the car was significantly faster and more controlled in the corners. That was too firm for the street, so with the shocks backed off, it now rides almost as smooth as stock. The .5 - 1.0 inch in drop has given me no issues with tire rubbing, or problems with dragging the front end. In fact, I wish it was a little lower... One of the best bang for the buck upgrades I've done. Installation was about $450, with another $90 for an alignment. Pete at TC was great with alignment spec suggestions as well as shock setting suggestions. Go for it... Kurt '95 ///M3