E36M3 #2738

Monday, November 04, 2002 16:26:33

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: Aftermarket radiators?> - from Neil Maller
#2. Re: post-driving school brake fade - from m3ltw@msn.com
#3. Re: [E36M3] post-driving school brake fade - from Zachary Eyler-Walker
#4. Re: [E36M3] How to use child safety seats in E36 - from Wen Liew
#5. 95 M3 MISFIRE - from Cody_McCoy
#6. Re: care and Feeding of RA-1's? - from James Clay
#7. plugs - from James Clay
#8. Re: How to Remove Brake Light Switch? - from James Clay
#9. radiators - from James Clay
#10. Re: [E36M3] Wheel bearing going out? - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com

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#1. Re: Aftermarket radiators?> - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 16:21:50 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Aftermarket radiators?> on 11/4/02 3:46 PM, "barrettn@swbell.net" <barrettn@swbell.net wrote: > Anyone know the skinny on aftermarket radiators? I had someone pull out > right in front of me, I need a new radiator and the insurance is only > wanting to pay for an aftermarket. I have a '95 325i (I'm here by the grace > of Suzy - that plus I have all sorts of go fast goodies. Unfortunatly, even > the Brembo 4 pot go SLOW goodies weren't enough.) Should I fight to get > them to pay for OEM? The aftermarket has a lifetime warrantee, not sure yet > if it has plastic tanks or not. Anyone know if the project JimP was working > of with one of the big radiator makers to do the radiator right ever came > to fruition? Barrett, I think you'll find that this one is fairly simple: there's only one manufacturer of E36 radiators, and that's Behr. A given replacement may or may not carry the BMW roundel, but it's the same hybrid plastic/metal part - with all its vices and virtues... It would be nice to find an all-aluminum radiator, but as far as I know that doesn't exist at present. However if you're quick you can get a very good price on the Behr unit. Surf on over to: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1871474225&ssP ageName=ADME:B:BN:US:1 where you'll find the replacement unit for $118 plus shipping. This is $25-30 less than the usual best mail order price, and a fraction of the $350+ that many dealers charge. I've ordered mine, just on the basis that with 73K miles I'm going to need it sooner or later. Neil 96 M3

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#2. Re: post-driving school brake fade - from m3ltw@msn.com
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 13:43:18 -0500 From: m3ltw@msn.com Subject: Re: post-driving school brake fade > Wrom: CONEUQZAAFXISHJEXXIMQZUIVOTQNQEM > > Hi Dan... The pedal is now LOWER when it gets firm. Not softer, really. > > Tons of brake dust, so maybe I just wore off a bunch of pad. No doubt about it. Look through the wheel, you can see the edge of the pad, new ones are something like 17mm thick. > For what it's worth, my brake fluid is at exact same level before as before > the weekend, and same color blue. I don't know if this is helpful > information, but it's what I've observed. I'm sure it is lower, but the displacement of the caliper is so small relative to the reservoir that you wouldn't notice it. (you can notice the effect if you top off the reservoir BEFORE you replace the pads, because it will likely overflow when you push in the pistons!) > Car is under warranty (CPO), but isn't the entire brake system wear and > tear, and not covered? Not remembering what CPO means, it depends. Current cars get 3 years of maintenance (yes, my dealer has replaced both pads and rotors on my M3 and X5 due to track fun) covering everything. Dan

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#3. Re: [E36M3] post-driving school brake fade - from Zachary Eyler-Walker
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 16:57:41 -0500 (EST) From: Zachary Eyler-Walker <zwalker@cs.utk.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] post-driving school brake fade At 09:26 AM 11/4/02, Peter Guagenti wrote: > Interestingly, I ran the same event yesterday with the UUC big brakes and > Carbotech pads. The braking force was excellent and the pedal felt great, > with the exception of a low pedal height (still looking for advice on what > that could be). I came in after the last session yesterday, popped my hood, > and discovered that I had boiled my fluid (also super blue). Fluids are pretty much incompressible, but they expand and contract with changes in temperature a fair amount. Even if your brake fluid reservoir is filled just to or slightly below the fill point, the fluid may get hot enough under the heavy use at the track to expand and leak out. Same with coolant -- check your fill level before and after bringing the car up to temperature, and you'll see a big difference in fluid level. Zach

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#4. Re: [E36M3] How to use child safety seats in E36 - from Wen Liew
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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 14:00:54 -0800 From: "Wen Liew" <wwliew@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] How to use child safety seats in E36 >From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] ? >Chester is correct, if you pull the seat belt all the way out, it will >ratchet back in, securing the child seat. Most modern cars have this. Not to beat on a dead horse but try securing a car seat in a E36 M3 COUPE and then report back. The rear belts in the coupe will ratchet back but will not lock, there by allowing car seats to move and slide around and even a rubber mat won't do any good. As many have found out, including the original poster, the belts on the coupe do act differently than the sedan. Case closed for me :) Wen _________________________________________________________________ Unlimited Internet access -- and 2 months free!  Try MSN. http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/2monthsfree.asp

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#5. 95 M3 MISFIRE - from Cody_McCoy
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 13:55:31 -0800 From: Cody_McCoy <Cody_McCoy@sd.vrtx.com> Subject: 95 M3 MISFIRE Group, Again I am in need of more fantastic advice from you all, second problem in a week, after replacing the broken radiator now I have a misfire when first started that goes away after the first few miles and a lot of frustrated revving occasionally comes back during idle/low revs but ok on freeway, anyone experience this problem and possible solutions ???, thanks all!!! Cody McCoy 95 M3/2 mailto:Cody_McCoy@sd.vrtx.com

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#6. Re:  care and Feeding of RA-1's? - from James Clay
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 17:06:03 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: care and Feeding of RA-1's? Wail on them! Pressures are closer to 30, about 40 hot. No heat cycling needed, but they will be greasy if you didn't get them shaved. Like any tire, listen to them and get them warm, but it doesn't take any more than a lap or two. If they get greasy, back off and they will come back nicely. James -------------------------------------------------------------------- James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance Genuine and OEM BMW Parts 540.639.9648 -------------------------------------------------------------------- We now carry a full line of DEC catalytic converters - now offering free shipping on these parts through the end of the year.

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#7. plugs - from James Clay
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 17:06:01 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: plugs I think NGK is the OEM for these. The NGKs we use in the race engines are colder, but come in a BMW box. We tried a few out recently and the Denso Iridium (+15 Hp in a V-8, $10 each) are WORTHLESS! James -------------------------------------------------------------------- James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance Genuine and OEM BMW Parts 540.639.9648 -------------------------------------------------------------------- We now carry a full line of DEC catalytic converters - now offering free shipping on these parts through the end of the year.

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#8. Re:  How to Remove Brake Light Switch? - from James Clay
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 17:06:52 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: How to Remove Brake Light Switch? Big pair of sheetmetal cutters works well... -------------------------------------------------------------------- James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance Genuine and OEM BMW Parts 540.639.9648 -------------------------------------------------------------------- We now carry a full line of DEC catalytic converters - now offering free shipping on these parts through the end of the year.

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#9. radiators - from James Clay
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 17:19:17 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: radiators Fliudyne will have their new E36 radiators finished soon. We have been pushing them for over a year, but Honda parts sell better... They will be in the $5-600 ballpark, but with better cooling capability and 100% aluminum construction (no weak plastic). I have used the Fuidynes in other cars and the quality is worth it. James -------------------------------------------------------------------- James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance Genuine and OEM BMW Parts 540.639.9648 -------------------------------------------------------------------- We now carry a full line of DEC catalytic converters - now offering free shipping on these parts through the end of the year.

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#10. Re: [E36M3] Wheel bearing going out? - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 16:24:09 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wheel bearing going out? eevans@planetc.com wrote: > > I'm starting to notice that when the car is cold, as in the > first 5 miles or so, when I brake fairly hard I feel this > gritty feeling through the steering. Evan, As temps drop, your summer tires may exhibit signs of early morning flat spotting. Once they warm up it goes away. Dunflops are notorious for this 'feature'. But others may be susceptible as well. > My brother swears my front wheel bearing is going out. I've > never had a bearing go out so this is a new feeling for me. Highly unlikely. Have you hit and major put holes/ditches lately? Enough to bend a wheel/control arm? Done 5+ DEs hitting every curb in sight? Maybe than. Long before a wheel bearing develops any free play it starts howling. Loudly. Loud enough to compete with the stereo and give you a head ache unless you replace it. None of the loud as hell bad wheel bearings I had replaced in the past exhibited any free play whatsoever. Not to mention that a bad wheel bearing will not get any better as it warms up. > BTW, my ABS light just came on too, could this be related to > the bearing? Unlikely. Start by cleaning the crud from the ABS rings on each wheel/bearing. > This is on a '95 M3 w/ 72K miles. My heavily autoXed/tracked '95 M3 with 70K miles is still on the original good and quiet bearings. FWIW, I had swapped out all four bearings on my E30 between 125-175K miles. alex f

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