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#1. Re: Finally a combo Street/Track brake pad - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 23:22:19 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Finally a combo Street/Track brake pad on 11/5/02 5:05 PM, "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> wrote: > I guess we have a solution without compromise. Last month at the Glen I met > with a bunch of list members. Tom Kallay was running CarboTech (sp?) brake > pads. The DID NOT dust or squeled. One of my students in his M Coupe was > running the same pads so I had a good second hand experience with it. Pretty > decent stopping Mo Karamat is going the same route. Apparently we have a gem > on the list. Gerry Low who can get us the pads for reasonable prices > (gerry@parallel-mkt.com) The unknown would be how long they last. A friend tried the Carbotech Panthers on his 325i a couple of years ago and they just about made it through one track weekend. However Carbotech was still playing around with the friction material formulation at the time, so it seems likely that the current pads are different. Neil 96 M3
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#2. Questions about jack stands? - from Johnny Lee
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Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 00:21:18 -0500 From: Johnny Lee <mclee@comcast.net> Subject: Questions about jack stands? I will be needing to buy jack stands in the near future. I am wondering if anyone just uses any Sears/Pep Boys jack stands for the Hockey Pucks or use Ron's adapter? Would there be any problems using commercial jack stands on our cars without any modification? Thanks, Johnny 1998 M3/4
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#3. Re: E36 6 cyl head removal - from Scott Blazey
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 23:37:37 -0600 From: Scott Blazey <edpm3@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: E36 6 cyl head removal Mike, As a matter of fact, I have had some recent experience with that project. It's a little daunting, but with the right tools, references, and resources, it can be done. At least I think so--the car's still running after a weekend at Mid-Ohio. You must have the special tools. There are some you might be able to substitute for or work around, but most of them you need. The Bentley manual lists most of them, and I'm sure Brett has what you need. I compiled my own list and collected the tools, and I was still surprised part way through the job when it became apparent I needed some Torx sockets in addition to the long skinny one for the head bolts. Also, don't forget a good precision torque wrench and a dial caliper. I found that the Bentley book had about 85% of the information I needed, and the BMW TIS CD had about 75% of what I needed, and between the two of them I had about 90% of the information I needed. The rest of the information came through the good graces of a top notch technician who was kind enough to help me out over the phone when I had questions and from the service manager at my local dealer. You'll also need to find a good shop to machine the head if necessary. I also had them measure and replace worn valve guides. I'm sure the pros can give you better advice than I can on the procedures and techniques, but one piece of advice I found useful was to pull the cams before loosening the head bolts, and vice versa when re-installing. (It takes tension off the head before you loosen the head bolts and makes it a little easier to lift in and out.) Re-installing the VANOS controller was interesting as well and took a couple tries to get it right. (By the way, roll bar padding is handy for wrapping around cams to protect them when they're out of the head.) You can buy all the necessary gaskets separately, but BMW also sells a kit with all the gaskets you need to do the job, and then some. However, for the head gasket itself I went with the BMP head gasket. If you have any specific questions, feel free to ask, but if you get stuck, your best bet is to find a generous and understanding BMW tech expert who doesn't mind phone calls, or even a local tech who might be induced to make a house call if the price is right. Good luck. --Scott '95 M3 --------------------- >Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 16:08:51 -0800 (PST) >From: Michael Turgeon <turgeon1@yahoo.com> >Subject: E36 6 cyl head removal > >Gruppe: > >Any one undertake the above project at home yet? > >If so, please feel free to provide any tips, pointers, >etc. > >I have the Bentley and have contact Brett to rent the >right tools. > >I am looking to tap into the gruppes vast experience >for anything that would have been good to know or is >not covered in any instructions. > >Thanks, >Mike >#418 ITS/JP(yeah, that's a reasonable >classification?!? NOT!) >
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#4. Re: metal valve stems - from Paul England
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Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 02:21:38 -0500 From: "Paul England" <ettsn@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: metal valve stems > >>Counterpoint. I've been using metal valve stems for well over 20 years. > Good ones have a rubber washer/seal and don't leak. I have a set I've used > in mutiple sets of wheels<< I'll also add that my stock 10 spokes were cutting down rubber stems at a pretty appalling rate. I switched to metal, and zero problems since. YMMV. -Paul
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Questions about jack stands? - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 05:53:43 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Questions about jack stands? At 11:16 PM 11/5/02 -0600, you wrote: >Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 00:21:18 -0500 >From: Johnny Lee <mclee@comcast.net> >Subject: Questions about jack stands? > > > I will be needing to buy jack stands in the near future. I am wondering if >anyone just uses any Sears/Pep Boys jack stands for the Hockey Pucks or use >Ron's adapter? Would there be any problems using commercial jack stands on >our cars without any modification? > > Thanks, > > >Johnny > >1998 M3/4 > I use regular jackstands all the time. I have no rubber pucks on my car. Previous owner removed or lost them. I use a peice of 5/8" plywood between the top pf the jackstand and the car. Works fine. Jay
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#6. Question for Atlanta/Gerogia Area Members - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 14:21:31 +0000 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Question for Atlanta/Gerogia Area Members I just moved to Atlanta from Boston. I am concerned with the insurance policy in Georgia. Do they cover your car when you are attending driver's school? For instance, NY covers it whereas MA does not. Any experiences or info please drop me a line (TIA). Plus I am also interested in getting involved with the local car clubs and meetings. I did get some info. from the CCA webpage. Wondering if there is a group of local M3 drivers who attend tracks/beer meetings etc. Ahmad 98 Boston Green _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
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#7. Re: speed sensor bad? - from Rob Verenna
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Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 09:52:48 -0500 From: Rob Verenna <rob@willraceforbeer.com> Subject: Re: speed sensor bad? Todd- This happened to me on my '95 and the dealer ended up replacing the entire gauge cluster for me. I seem to remember asking around at the time and I wasn't the first person to have this happen. - rob At Tuesday, 5 November 2002, you wrote: >From: "Todd C. Merrill" <tmerrill@mathworks.com> > >Anybody ever have a speed sensor go bad? > >Not every time, but a couple of the last few times I've driven over 30 >minutes or so, I've casually looked down to check my speed and the >speedometer needle is resting on the post. The fuel consumption gauge >needle isn't visible. And, the odometer doesn't increase. > >It doesn't ever seem to happen if I drive less than 20-30 minutes. >And, when it does happen, it's dead until I drive the car next. >Stopping the car, going in reverse, turning off the car (key in or out) >doesn't seem to stop the symptoms. Only time. A rest of a full night >helps, as does about 30-40 minutes. (I'm only working with three data >points, though). > >I've pulled the connector to the speed sensor off and reseated it, to >no avail. Bentley shows (ELE-167) speed sensor goes straight to the >instrument cluster. My first inclination is to hope the part is cheap >and replace the sensor first (those little bolts look like a pain to >get off). I don't even want to think about an instrument cluster.... > >I'm hoping the experience of this list has some wisdom to share. =================================================================== EASY and FREE access to your email anywhere: http://Mailreader.com/ ===================================================================
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#8. RE: warranty on squeaks - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 07:11:41 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: warranty on squeaks Jim wrote: "Well, according to the Service & Warranty Manual, "adjustments" are covered for 1 year/12,000 miles. Squeaks & rattles may fall under the vague term "adjustments", and that may be what the dealer is referring to." ....and that has been my experience as well with door adjustment. Fortunatly the dealer waved the $80 to adjust the door when he read in my records that they had postponed the adjustment for a while (at this point well past one year), "...we'll wait till the doors settle in and to the adjustment down the road a bit"... Kim L Burgess
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#9. Re: [E36M3] RE: M3 owners with an AA, Supersprint, or UUC exhaust? - from Dave Kelley
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Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 10:16:28 -0500 From: "Dave Kelley" <d.kelley@usa.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: M3 owners with an AA, Supersprint, or UUC exhaust? > Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 19:05:14 -0500 > From: Mike Frank <mfrank28@comcast.net> > Subject: RE: M3 owners with an AA, Supersprint, or UUC exhaust? > > Ajay, > > You're welcome to listen to my UUC exhaust if you're ever in > Indianapolis. It's NOT quiet but it sounds very good. I've had many > people tell me how good it sounds. In fact, I guy followed me home last > week because it sounded good and he wanted to find out what kind it was. > > Does anyone know if UUC changed the exhaust? Reason I ask is because I > got one of the first ones and it's pretty loud. Other UUC exhausts I've > heard that were purchased maybe a year later were noticeably quieter > (smoother, less resonance and rumbling :), especially on the 3.0L 95s. > To me they sounded excellent also though. > > Good Luck, > > Mike Frank > 97 M3 > Do you have the UUC System U exhaust? They have just released the new Twin Silencer Exhaust (TSE) which is a little quiter than the System U. I have one and really like it. But I would still say it is "loud"! Dave Kelley 98 M3/4 94 325i
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#10. Starter Removal - from DiVincenti, A.J.
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Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 09:35:37 -0600 From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> Subject: Starter Removal Has anyone removed the starter form their M3? What is the best way to get at this thing? AJ (95 M3 awaiting heart transplant)