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#1. RE: [E36M3] Advertising to the list - from Robert S. Hatrak II
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 09:14:33 -0800 From: "Robert S. Hatrak II" <hatrak@ix.netcom.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Advertising to the list Suzy, Right now the messages I get from the list all have [E36M3] in the subject. Is it possible to make the advertisements say something like [E36M3-AD] in the subject line? If that could be done, people could use the rules feature of Outlook to sort the mails or even delete the ads completely without ever being bothered by them. Of course this would only work for those NOT in digest mode.... Just a thought. Rob
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#2. Re: [E36M3] List Advertising? - from DocWyte
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 10:01:06 -0800 (PST) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] List Advertising? Well, I've seen alot of posts from people asking to put the ads on the bottom, or send one email with all the ads in it so it's easy to ignore and delete. That kinda belies the entire point of advertising. The advertisers are paying money for exposure, and if it's set up in such a way that most of us won't be viewing it, they won't really want to pay too much. Also, if most of us are just going to delete it, and want it in an easily deletable format, why bother with list advertising at all? There are other ways of fund raising to cover the cost of the list. The VW 16v list had quite a bit of success raising money by having a raffle. Some tuner companies "donated" some products and shelf warmers they had around and list members bought tickets at $10 a pop. Lots of fun was had, people got some great prizes and the list made enough money to keep going for a few years... -josh ===== Josh Wyte Momentum Motorsports 508-833-3024 After 5 pm EST __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your site http://webhosting.yahoo.com
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#3. Re: Brake Master Cyl and Garage mate - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 13:08:39 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Brake Master Cyl and Garage mate on 11/19/02 12:22 PM, Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> wrote: > Before I drive off to stargaze, I thought I'd post this little beauty from > e-bay for your viewing pleasure: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872351688 Damn, I was going to bid, then noticed that the armament is fake. Oh well... > . . . then ask if swapping the brake master cylinder is as straightforward as > it appears to be? Brake caliper/clutch slave bleeding aside, is the removal > and installation as simple as draining and disconnecting the resevoir, > unbolting and replacing the master, then reconnecting and bleeding? When I > looked in the engine bay, I almost couldn't believe how accessable it seemed > to be. Yes, it is pretty easy. Messy though...I bought a replacement form Steve D'G and did it last winter. Took me only about an hour, plus bleeding. Here are some instructions I wrote up for another Lister: - You're going to need a 3/8" drive socket set and lots of paper towels, plus of course a 1 litre can of new brake fluid. - My 96 has two large electrical connectors on the fender side of the M/C. Unscrew their tops and tuck the harnesses out of the way. - There was also some kind of electric component right in front of the M/C that later would prevent pulling it clear. Unscrew this from its mount and push aside. - Then you need to empty the fluid reservoir as much as possible. Either use a turkey baster, or pressure bleed the fluid out at a caliper. - The plastic reservoir has several (3?) rubber hoses going to it, and in my case they didn't want to come off. Rather than risk damaging something I decided to leave them in place, and this worked fine. - Now you need to separate the reservoir from the M/C underneath it. On the bottom the reservoir has two plastic pipes which push into the M/C through big rubber seals. Nothing other than the pressure of these seals holds the two parts together. Grasp the reservoir and wiggle/pull it upward until it comes free. - More fluid will immediately leak out, so mop it up as best you can with paper towels. Now you'll start finding out how effective brake fluid is as a paint stripper! Tuck the reservoir aside. - Spray some penetrating oil on all the metal brake line fittings at the M/C. Let sit for a while if you can. Undo the fittings and pull the lines slightly aside without bending them. - Remove the 2 nuts (13mm head?) holding the M/C to the brake booster. Pull the M/C free. - Clean up the area as best you can with paper towels. - Your replacement M/C should have come with a new O-ring for where it attaches to the booster. Install this on the M/C if necessary. However it does not come with new rubber seals for the reservoir unless you ordered them separately. Recycle them from the original part. - OK, here's the MOST IMPORTANT tip: thread the hard line fittings into the new M/C before you tighten it down it on the booster. Otherwise it's difficult to get the threads started. You can't get a torque wrench on the hard lines, so just tighten them "enough." - Now reassembly really is the reverse of disassembly. - Bleed the brakes well, use the car for a couple or three days and bleed them again. Neil 96 M3
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#4. Re: airbag light - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 13:12:12 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: airbag light on 11/19/02 12:22 PM, Doug Wirth <DWirth@serena.com> wrote: > I just found out that my seat belt sensor for my airbag broke. Just wanted > to see if anyone has done the fix for this. The Stealer wants $350 It's a very common fault. Replacement should take 30-45 minutes for someone who has done it before, maybe an hour if not. (Turn off ignition and do NOT turn back on until finished. Remove 2 front nuts and 2 rear bolts securing seat rails to floor; tilt seat back forward and lean partly out of door to expose inboard seat latch/pretensioner assembly; unplug assembly harness under seat, then unbolt and remove part. Replace with new, reassemble in reverse order. Reset SRS light if necessary.) I don't recall how much the part costs, but it's not colossal. I'd suggest ordering it from the discount vendor of your choice and then DIY. You may need Torx bits (get a set at Sears), I forget. Neil 96 M3
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#5. Oil Leak and Cat. rattle... - from Jeremy.Thissell@USPTO.GOV
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 13:14:47 -0500 From: Jeremy.Thissell@USPTO.GOV Subject: Oil Leak and Cat. rattle... Hi Guys, I'm having some issues with my 328i. I haven't had much luck on non-M forums, so I thought I'd try here. If it makes a difference, I used to have a 99 M3. That's when I subscribed to this list. I keep my subscription because I get a good amount of general E36 info, which is applicable to my 328i. Anyways, here goes. I have a slow oil leak on my 328i, that I can't trace the source of. The whole undercarriage is covered from the oilpan forward, but I only get a couple drips on the floor of the garage every couple days. I was thinking (hoping) valvecover gasket, but the best I could do was to trace the source to the area right under the alternator. I can't tell exactly where though. I pulled out the airbox to get a better look, but I still couldn't see it from above or below the engine. Anyone have any idea what it is, and how to fix it. An exploded drawing of the engine showing the gaskets would be of tremendous help. The Bentley manual was useless in this area. Also, I have a rattle that is coming from the metal shield covering one of my cats. Anyone have a fix for this? I can't see anywhere to tighten it down. Lately, the exhaust has been a bit smelly too, especially on startup. Assuming my cat is kaput, how do you replace them? I was under there looking at it, and it almost looks like it just slides on over the pipes, but that can't be right. I couldn't see any bolts though, and again, my Bentley manual gives very little detail. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, -Jeremy 97 328i sport 00 B*xster S
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#6. RE: [E36M3] List Advertising? - from Doug Wirth
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 10:15:07 -0800 From: Doug Wirth <DWirth@serena.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] List Advertising? We buy stuff for our cars all the time, why not find out when good deals are around for our favorite past time. I don't think we are talking about getting 20 Spam emails a day here. I would much rather read or choose not to read an ad than to have to figure out how to pay a yearly subscription fee for this great resource. Doug Wirth *********************************************************************** This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. ***********************************************************************
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#7. Vibration when in gear idling. - from Michael Michalski
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 12:31:09 -0600 From: "Michael Michalski" <mmichalski@leaselink.com> Subject: Vibration when in gear idling. Good Afternoon Guys, It has been awhile since I last asked a question (guess that's a good thing). Anyway, I seem to have a problem that I was wondering if anyone might know something about. I have a 97 M3 4DR AT. When stopped at a light with the brake pedal pressed, idling, I am getting a vibration from the vehicle. I thought it might go away with my Inspection II, but that was performed about a month ago and I still get the vibration. Does anyone know what could be causing it? If I am at a long light and put the transmission in Neutral the vibration is diminished but is not completely eliminated. ???? Thanks is advance for any, and all responses. Michael Michalski Contract Review Coordinator LML Technologies mmichalski@lmltechnologies.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Oil Leak and Cat. rattle... - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 13:38:10 -0500 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil Leak and Cat. rattle... Jeremy Thissell writes: > Also, I have a rattle that is coming from the metal shield covering one of > my cats. Anyone have a fix for this? I can't see anywhere to tighten it > down. Lately, the exhaust has been a bit smelly too, especially on startup. > Assuming my cat is kaput, how do you replace them? I was under there looking > at it, and it almost looks like it just slides on over the pipes, but that > can't be right. I couldn't see any bolts though, and again, my Bentley > manual gives very little detail. The emmissions warranty, which covers the cat, covers you until 80K miles. I was just under that when I reported the rattle to the dealer and they gave me a new catalytic converter under warranty. As far as I know, the heatshield is integral to the cats. Andrej '97 M3
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#9. Re: Brake Master Cyl and Garage mate - from Steve Klein
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 12:43:09 -0600 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: Brake Master Cyl and Garage mate Thanks Neil- That's a good write-up with the caveats I was wondering about. I'm sure I can construct a thorough fluid evacuation device to get as much as possible, but I'll make a point of padding the entire area with layers and layers of towels. Thanks again, Steve Neil Maller wrote: > > > Yes, it is pretty easy. Messy though...I bought a replacement form Steve > D'G and did it last winter. Took me only about an hour, plus bleeding. Here > are some instructions I wrote up for another Lister: .. . .
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Advertising to the list - from Sue Kraft
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 12:48:55 -0600 From: Sue Kraft <suekraft@new.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Advertising to the list Hi Rob, Thanks much for the feedback. And thanks to all the others who responded as well. The last thing I want is for the list to get so bogged down with ads that people have to figure out a way to filter them out. The only purpose of allowing any advertising at all is to hopefully pass along some good deals to listmembers and let them know about new products. I think for now (a trial period of sorts) there will be no charge for advertising, but all ads will have to be cleared through me before posting. Or maybe I could just send out one email every week or two and mention any deals or products I feel are worthy of passing along. Let me think this over for a few more days..... Suzy "Robert S. Hatrak II" wrote: > > Suzy, > > Right now the messages I get from the list all have [E36M3] in the > subject. Is it possible to make the advertisements say something like > [E36M3-AD] in the subject line? If that could be done, people could use > the rules feature of Outlook to sort the mails or even delete the ads > completely without ever being bothered by them. Of course this would > only work for those NOT in digest mode.... > > Just a thought. > > Rob