-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re: [E36M3] A number of things - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 19:43:05 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] A number of things > Finally (sorry I'm so long winded) as to the removal of the rear > deck, are the plastic snaps others have mentioned muscling out the ones > holding the trim piece behind the seats? You will kill these one way rivets no matter what. Some have said to use push pin expanding rivets in place or you can just replacement ones from the dealer. HTH, Chester =====
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Spring Suggestion - from Ahmad Lutfeali
Top
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 13:59:10 +0000 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Spring Suggestion Hello everyone, On my 98 I installed a set of Bilsteins at 60K. I want to keep the car AS STOCK as possible. My 97 had Bisteins/H&R Sports/RD and now driving the 98 its sooo much pleasurable on the streets. I will only be doing 6-8 track days a year now. What springs should I use? 1) Stock- but with Bilsteins it sits a full inch higer in the front. I dont care about the looks but center of gravity? 2) H&R OE- will it get rid of the extra height I have gained? I know the spring rate is as stiff as the Sport. I dont want to sacrafice the ride too much. Turner said the car will still sit higher (anyone expereinced this?) 3) Eibach- A bit lower than # 2 and the spring rates are lower too. Any experiences? Are swaybar optional or would I need a set to finetune the handling? I have camber shims to get a tid bit beyond -2 camber up front. Thanks in advance. Ahmad 98 Boston Green in Atlanta _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Re: [E36M3] Spring Suggestion - from Jay W. Hudson
Top
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 06:25:28 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Spring Suggestion If you do the H&Rs, I'd go with the Sports. The OE Sports only dropped my '97 M3/2 .25" in the front and none in the rear. If both front and rear are higher because of the Bilstiens, the Sports should do the trick. If only the front is higher, do the Sports up front and the OE sports in the rear. As you know, they have the same spring rates. Jay At 08:06 AM 12/17/02 -0600, you wrote: >Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 13:59:10 +0000 >From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> >Subject: Spring Suggestion > > > >Hello everyone, > >On my 98 I installed a set of Bilsteins at 60K. I want to keep the car AS >STOCK as possible. My 97 had Bisteins/H&R Sports/RD and now driving the 98 >its sooo much pleasurable on the streets. I will only be doing 6-8 track >days a year now. > >What springs should I use? > >1) Stock- but with Bilsteins it sits a full inch higer in the front. I dont >care about the looks but center of gravity? > >2) H&R OE- will it get rid of the extra height I have gained? I know the >spring rate is as stiff as the Sport. I dont want to sacrafice the ride too >much. Turner said the car will still sit higher (anyone expereinced this?) > >3) Eibach- A bit lower than # 2 and the spring rates are lower too. Any >experiences? > > > >Are swaybar optional or would I need a set to finetune the handling? I have >camber shims to get a tid bit beyond -2 camber up front. > > >Thanks in advance. > >Ahmad >98 Boston Green in Atlanta > >_________________________________________________________________ >Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. >http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail > > > >************************************************************* >List Commands >UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. >DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. >GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > >To issue a command/request to the server: >Send a message with the command you wish executed as the >subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. >************************************************************* > > >
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. FS - Kmac camber plates - from James Clay
Top
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 11:21:38 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: FS - Kmac camber plates Used set, excellent condition, replaced with a full race plate. $100 for the pair. James -------------------------------------------------------------------- James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance Genuine and OEM BMW Parts 540.639.9648 --------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Helmet radio - from Jason Knight
Top
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 08:28:43 -0800 (PST) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: Helmet radio I'm looking to purchase a helmet-to-helmet communication device for use in driving instruction. I've seen these used at the track before, but a fairly extensive web search is not turning up the unit that I remember. What I recall is a single battery powered box about 3"x4"x1" (or so) that accepted plugs for two headsets, and perhaps also a plug for a secondary power source. Anyone know where to acquire these? Thank you. Jason P.S. To those that know me, fear not, as I will not be doing the instructing. This is going to be a gift. __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. RE: [E36M3] Helmet radio - from Wayne Miller
Top
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 11:49:17 -0500 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Helmet radio Jason, This is the most common one that I have seen (and the one that I have) is from Nady Systems: http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=18442&BQ=jcw2 My only beef with JC Whitney is that the last time I ordered from them, they added a ridiculous handling charger on top of the shipping charge but that was a few years ago. You can do a Google search for HELMET-ADAPTABLE FULL DUPLEX INTERCOM and get a bunch of results. You don't need the one with the FM receiver because you likely won't be listening to the radio at the same time. -Wayne -----Original Message----- From: Jason Knight [mailto:knight2244@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 11:36 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Helmet radio Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 08:28:43 -0800 (PST) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: Helmet radio I'm looking to purchase a helmet-to-helmet communication device for use in driving instruction. I've seen these used at the track before, but a fairly extensive web search is not turning up the unit that I remember. What I recall is a single battery powered box about 3"x4"x1" (or so) that accepted plugs for two headsets, and perhaps also a plug for a secondary power source. Anyone know where to acquire these? Thank you. Jason P.S. To those that know me, fear not, as I will not be doing the instructing. This is going to be a gift.
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. 'Twas a loose plug! - from twisty M3
Top
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 08:49:34 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: 'Twas a loose plug! Well a big, fat thank you to everyone who responded to my fearful inquiry regarding all the "tok, tok, tok" coming from the general area of cylinder #5. I got in there and went straight for that area, and the plug was just a little bit loose. I really barely had to tighten it at all, which is why I was surprised to restart the car and find no more sounds. Thank God it was nothing serious! ;) This does beg another question or two, however. 1) What causes the knocking sound? Is it the spark plug moving, or more to do with the distance of the plug causing combustion issues? 2) What kind of damage, if any, could that have caused? Car runs fine now, and was actually, and still is, running stronger than usual. For what it's worth, I checked on the prices for the spark plug tool with my local dealer... Over $20 and I'd have to special order it! Went to Sears and got a 6" extension and spark plug socket for $11, with tax... Plus, I get to return the spark plug socket since I didn't realize I actually had one in my socket set... hehe! Oops! Thanks again to everyone, Jonathan _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: [E36M3] Helmet radio - from ajvdh1@attbi.com
Top
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 17:07:32 +0000 From: ajvdh1@attbi.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Helmet radio A Google search for "motorcycle intercomm" will give you a bunch of hits. Our CCA chapter uses these: http://www.nadywireless.com/products/product_pgs/prcmoto_pg1.html -- "1 2 3 4!" - Johnny "Gabba gabba hey!" - Joey > Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 08:28:43 -0800 (PST) > From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> > Subject: Helmet radio > > I'm looking to purchase a helmet-to-helmet > communication device > [snip]
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Bimmerworld Solid Brake Guides - from Neil Maller
Top
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 12:14:40 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Bimmerworld Solid Brake Guides Bimmerworld has come up with a potentially interesting new product, which they describe as follows: > SOLID BRAKE GUIDES > > The best brake upgrade you can buy for your BMW! Eliminate caliper twisting > caused by rubber guide pin bushings in a stock single piston caliper. These > kits, consisting of precision guide pins and machined brass guide bushings, > will allow your calipers to squeeze evenly on both sides of the brake rotor - > just like expensive multi-piston big brake kits. Results in significantly > longer pad life and more consistent brake system feel. > > $119 per car set or $35 per caliper. > > $99 introductory price through December 31,2002 You can see a picture at: www.bimmerworld.com/catalog/brakes.htm I'm a longtime happy user of Bimmerworld's brake ducting kit. This new product seemed like a reasonable concept to me and its price is affordable, so I thought I'd order a set. They arrived yesterday. You get a set of eight each: - Brass bushings, machined with a lip at one end and a snap ring groove at the other. These replace the original rubber bushings in the calipers. - Snap rings to secure the brass bushings. - Guide pins, same size and general configuration as stock, but with a rough-turned finish on the OD instead of the smooth ground finish of the original BMW guide pins. Threads are cut rather than rolled, and still had a little swarf in them which needs to be brushed out before assembly. There were no instructions included, but assembly of the bushings into the calipers is pretty obvious. I don't plan to install mine until next spring for track season. I was curious about the rough surface finish of the replacement guide pins, and guessed it's intended to retain grease. Normally this type of finish would tend to ream out the bore of the relatively soft brass bushings, but on the other hand there's really not a lot of relative motion between the two parts in brakes. Although there are no instructions to call for any, I assume that a suitable hi-temp grease such as Syl-Glide on the pins would be essential. I contacted Bimmerworld about these points and they confirmed both, as well as emailing me the missing instructions. The instructions also point out that: > Proper maintenance of your brake calipers is important with these kits. Make > sure that the pin/bushing contact area is greased. We recommend that this > grease be cleaned off and replaced every time pads or rotors are replaced. We > do this step before each track weekend as part of a standard nut and bolt. > Whatever your schedule, make sure that these surfaces remain greased. This makes sense, since the grease is likely to pick up some brake dust and road crud. In conclusion these seem like a worthwhile upgrade more suitable for serious track junkies than for road warriors. There's the typical performance part trade-off of (slightly) increased maintenance against a useful performance benefit. I'm looking forward to trying them out next season. Neil 96 M3
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Re: Speedo, Odometer & Gas Mileage gauge not working. - from Ron Buchalski
Top
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 16:19:27 -0500 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Speedo, Odometer & Gas Mileage gauge not working. Bob, Check the fuses for the instrument panel. There may be more than one that are associated with them. If fuses are okay, check the wire attached to the sending unit on the rear diff. That's where the speed signal comes from. I haven't heard of failed sending units, so it's probably something fairly simple. To verify whether you're getting a signal from the speed sending unit, check out: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/repair_faqs/obc.html If you get a value for Current Speed (Test #8), it means that your sending unit is working. Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata >Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 18:00:07 -0800 >From: "Bob Smith" <bob421@sonic.net> >Subject: Speedo, Odometer & Gas Mileage gauge not working. > > > >On a trip today, with my 98 M3/4 I noticed that the subject three items >in the instrument cluster stopped registering all of a sudden. The fuel >and temp gauges seem to be fine. > >Any thoughts, > >Thanks > >Bob Smith _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail