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#1. Re: [E36M3] Poor pedal feel - will rebuild help? - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 19:25:43 -0800 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Poor pedal feel - will rebuild help? on 12/17/02 8:18 PM, Rob at speedmaster@telus.net wrote: > Other ideas on how to improve the feel? I find the E36 brake feel makes me > want to sell it and buy a 993! I should note that my last 2 M3s have felt > like this, but this time it is really bothering me... I had an interesting experience this weekend improving the pedal feel in my 328i, and it happened in a very unexpected way: The pedal feel in both my wife's 328i and my M3 just sucks. No matter what I've done -- rebuilding calipers, bleeding various different ways, changing brake lines, etc. -- it's never been good. So, I finally decided to change the master cylinder out. I've had a new M3 master cylinder hanging around, so I figured I'd install it in the 328i. I drained the fluid out of the reservoir and pulled it off, disconnected the lines to the master cylinder, and unbolted the unit. The piston in the master cylinder compressed a little easier than the new one, but not by much. I compared the two master cylinders (328i stock and M3) and they were both almost exactly the same, with one exception. One of the hard lines that bolts to the master cylinder was _bigger_ on the 328i than on the M3. The stupid thing wouldn't work. :-( I was more than a little disappointed, as I expected the M3 part to work. That said, the 328i master cylinder appears to be the same dimensions and wasn't broken, so it went back on. I cleaned up the fittings, cleaned the surface that the master cylinder connects to, and reconnected it all. I made sure everything was bolted together nice and snug, and then I bled. I filled the reservoir with fluid, connected my pressure bleeder, and opened the valve on each caliper. While the valve was open, I pumped the pedal to assist in clearing out the air bubbles. After bolting everything back together, I took the car for a test drive. Night and day difference! The pedal is rock-hard and braking is much better. I've flushed the fluid before, and used my usual bleeding technique, so neither of those can be the reason for the better feel. All I can think is that maybe something wasn't tightened down as well as it should, or something was leaking slightly. After the rebuild, it feels great and has continued to feel good over 75+ miles a day of commuting. Now I'm gonna do the same on the M3 and see what happens. :-) -peterg
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#2. Someone have a spare foglight holder? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 20:57:47 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Someone have a spare foglight holder? I must have misplaced the extra plastic cages or mounts from my replacement foglights :( Anyone have one? Shoot...it evades my memory if I needed the passenger or driver side one...darn! BTW, my baby is back home...albeit very dirty. Needs a good cleaning inside and the interior put back in :) Chester =====
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#3. Need Help re: install steering wheel - from Kin Fong
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 00:04:39 -0500 From: Kin Fong <kfong@optonline.net> Subject: Need Help re: install steering wheel My friend tried to install my 97' M3 -4 spoke steering wheel in his 95' 325. But there are a few extra wires/plug in his column. If anyone know what additional parts he needs please contact me. Thanks, Kin Fong NJ Chapter
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Another Spring/Shock Question - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 06:23:56 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Another Spring/Shock Question I have no personal experience. But, I believe I've read that the Euro springs will actually raise the car in front. Jay At 10:26 AM 12/18/02 -0600, you wrote: >Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 11:21:11 -0500 >From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> >Subject: Another Spring/Shock Question > >Oft repeated but always curious on current data... > >I am looking to put the euro E36 M3 springs on my car this winter (slightly stiffer and slightly lower but still very close to a stock set-up and very streetable). I have been thinking about what the best shock/strut insert to combine with them and I have narrowed down my choices to the Bilstein Sport and the Koni SA. Furthermore, if I go the Koni SA route, I would likely go with the externally adjustable shocks that are offered by TC Kline or Ground Control. > >- So, has anyone here combined euro E36 M3 springs with any of these shocks (Bilstein Sport, GC Koni SA or TCK Koni SA)? > >- Does the rebound and compression of the Bilsteins go well with stock springs or the euro E36 M3 springs? > >- Does the compression of the Konis go well with stock springs or the euro E36 M3 springs? > >- Any particular comments on the effectiveness of either set-up? > >- Best place to buy? > >Private or public replies gladly accepted. > >Best regards, > >Rich > >95 M3 - stock suspension >90 325is - E30 M3 springs and Bilstein Sports (nice combination) > > >************************************************************* >List Commands >UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. >DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. >GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > >To issue a command/request to the server: >Send a message with the command you wish executed as the >subject of the message to the email address e36m3@bmw-m.net. >************************************************************* > > >
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Another Spring/Shock Question - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 14:55:37 +0000 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Another Spring/Shock Question Josh, I am currently using Bilstein sport with stock springs on my 98 M3. I like the setup (on my 97 I have used them with H&R Sport on Boston roads with 15 track days a year and the shocks held fine). I suffer from Obsessive Modification Disorder and when used the 8 way adjustable shocks on my RX7TT was stuck playing with them every darn day. Hence I like the out of the box Bilsetin better than Konis since I dont have to worry about "which will be the right setting". But then thats me. BTW the front of the car was raised one full inch (with stock springs) and I am sure with the Euro springs, you will have the same issue. In this case, with Konis you can soften the shocks and not have this problem. Goodluck and keep us posted on your result. Regards, Ahmad 98 Boston Green M3 in Atlanta. _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Another Spring/Shock Question - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 10:16:56 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Another Spring/Shock Question Jay says > > I have no personal experience. But, I believe I've read that the Euro > springs will actually raise the car in front. Jay The euro springs are shorter in length than the US front springs. Here are the potential US 95 M3 front springs: 31 33 2 227 421 without a/c - ~13.4375" free length 31 33 2 227 422 with a/c - 13.6875" free length per UUC Motorwerks Here are the Euro front springs: 31 33 2 228 170 - little shorter (assuming same wire diameter, # of coils, id., etc.) 31 33 2 228 171 - 12.75" per UUC Motorwerks 31 33 2 228 172 - little longer (assuming same wire diameter, # of coils, id., etc.) I still have yet to see what part number 1995 LTWs (which came to the US) used and I think it was the 31 33 2 227 421 spring in the front but I have yet to see this confirmed by anyone (Michael Lawrence may be able to confirm this). If this was the case, the 421 has a smaller wire diameter and is 0.25" longer than the 422 but probably has a slightly lower static ride height equipped on the same car. In general, BMW springs come in series with consecutive numbers that cover a range of loads, higher number for heavier cars. Lower numbered springs are typically shorter and the higher numbers are typically longer (unless the wire diameter changes like in the LTW example IIRC). Spring rates are typically very similar within a series I would imagine since the number of coils stays the same and the wire diameter does not change (or very little). The length will generally just affect the static ride height. I assume BMW does this so vehicles across a model line have the same static ride height (I presume to facilitate suspension set-up and alignment specs). http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_techtip/techtips/e36_m3_spring.htm Anyway, the only way the euro springs would end up higher is via the use of gas pressurized shocks (like the Bilstein Sports) that are pressurized much more than the stock shocks you are using. This has been reported on the digest before with various springs. Regards, Rich 95 M3 - still deciding what to do with my suspension.... 90 325is - E30 M3 springs and Bilstein Sports...nice set-up for the street
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#7. Moving a Trailer - from James W Tilley II
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 07:43:23 -0800 From: James W Tilley II <jtilley@lvcm.com> Subject: Moving a Trailer Considering buying an aluminum, open trailer in Lansing, MI. Need to get it to Las Vegas. Anyone got any ideas/recommendations/assistance on cost effective ways of getting it to Las Vegas without having to drive all the way to Lansing to pick it up. TIA. Cheers, Jim Tilley 99M3 BSP #281 96Z3 SSB/LS #81 91 Spec Miata, #81
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#8. Re: ...and trailering - from Dan Snyder
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 07:59:21 -0500 From: "Dan Snyder" <m3ltw@msn.com> Subject: Re: ...and trailering > From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> > > On a separate note, last weekend a friend borrowed our > truck and trailer to move his '68 Chrysler Newport. > Going downhill the trailer began to get loose, and the > friend attempted to stear the truck to avoid the > trailer getting looser. This resulted in the truck > and trailer doing a 180 (which I can mentally picture, > but can't believe), the tie downs breaking, and the > Newport flipping off the trailer, thus stopping their > spin. All four passengers were fine, as was the > truck. Newport is dead, and the trailer will require > extensive repairs. I believe the event could have > been prevented had the driver engaged the trailer > breaks (our open trailer had (oops, has) breaks on all > four wheels), which he did not think to do. Most > people on this list probably know this... Actually, since most people on the list don't tow, I doubt they'd know it, but you are correct that this could've been resolved with manual activation of the trailer brakes. While it seems counter-intuitive, stepping on the throttle can also "pull" the trailer back into alignment (so long as acceleration isn't a safety issue on its own). Also, the fact that the trailer began to get loose going downhill (under braking?) implies that the trailer brakes might not have been properly adjusted for the Newport (@4,000+ lbs.). Of course, if your friend was just using engine braking, that could be the initiator. I learned both of these lessons while towing my LTW for the first time up to Road America in heavy traffic on a rutted highway. Sway control bars are also very functional (from experience), as is going out with a seasoned veteran tower! On a side note, I'm surprised that the tie downs broke. Each of mine are rated to 10,000 lbs., so I'd hope they wouldn't brake without actually striking something (hard) first. It should be another lesson for many neophytes out there that tow straps will weaken with age, dirt and mistreatment. Replace them periodically (oh, and get the best hardware you can). Dan
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#9. Ground Control Coilover Set-ups - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 12:01:08 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Ground Control Coilover Set-ups Another alternative I am considering is the Ground Control set-up with the Koni SAs and Eibach springs ($1,199 and it comes with the springs and shocks, including front struts complete). I know they have multiple springs rates available with the Eibach springs. The front springs are in the ~3XX-4XX ft. lb. range and the rears in the ~4XX-5XX ft. lb. range. Sometimes the rear springs are cylindrical, sometimes they are barrel shaped. So, is anyone using this set-up for street and track (DE events)? What do you think of it? What was the exact GC set-up you went with (i.e., spring rates)? I am leaning towards more of a street set-up FWIW. Also, any comments on the new hybrid GC camber/caster plates ($399)? GC claims they aren't harsh on the street as some other designs (i.e., TC Kline) as the spherical bushings don't carry the entire load of the front of the car. I believe these are fairly new. Anyone know more about them? Finally, any comments on the GC rear shock mounts (which are basically required with the GC coilover set-up)? Are these a urethane design as compared to the monoball TCK set-up? Best regards, Rich 95 M3
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Ground Control Coilover Set-ups - from cteague@cox.net
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 12:14:41 -0500 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Ground Control Coilover Set-ups Rich, I have the GC RSM, and yes, they do have urethane, but work very well IMHO. I didn't notice any extra NVH or squeaking, and it is a nice quality part. I have other GC parts on the car also. I will probably switch from my H&R Sport springs to the GC coilovers one day. Chris > Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 12:01:08 -0500 > From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> > Subject: Ground Control Coilover Set-ups > > Another alternative I am considering is the Ground Control set-up with the Koni SAs and Eibach springs ($1,199 and it comes with the springs and shocks, including front struts complete). I know they have multiple springs rates available with the Eibach springs. The front springs are in the ~3XX-4XX ft. lb. range and the rears in the ~4XX-5XX ft. lb. range. Sometimes the rear springs are cylindrical, sometimes they are barrel shaped. > > So, is anyone using this set-up for street and track (DE events)? What do you think of it? What was the exact GC set-up you went with (i.e., spring rates)? I am leaning towards more of a street set-up FWIW. > > Also, any comments on the new hybrid GC camber/caster plates ($399)? GC claims they aren't harsh on the street as some other designs (i.e., TC Kline) as the spherical bushings don't carry the entire load of the front of the car. I believe these are fairly new. Anyone know more about them? > > Finally, any comments on the GC rear shock mounts (which are basically required with the GC coilover set-up)? Are these a urethane design as compared to the monoball TCK set-up?