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#1. Re: [E36M3] LTW Wing Risers - from DocWyte
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Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 09:49:03 -0800 (PST) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] LTW Wing Risers Thanks David! Several people have graciously offered me their unused risers. Thanks guys! -josh --- dholeman <dholeman@racepad.com> wrote: > Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 11:29:43 -0500 > From: "dholeman" <dholeman@racepad.com> > Subject: LTW Wing Risers > > Hi, > > The OEM LTW wing risers are NLA (no longer > available). They run over $270.00 if you can find > them. These are not easy to copy as they are a two > piece molded and fused part with a metal bracket set > inside. If these were easy and cheap to copy > somebody would had done this already. More power to > anyone who can find a way. > > My hope is that someone using my wing w/o will pony > up the inserts for Josh as I do not have any spares > on hand. > > David Holeman > > > ************************************************* > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > ===== Josh Wyte Momentum Motorsports 508-833-3024 After 5 pm EST __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com
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#2. Replacement Bushings - from Matt Graham
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Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 13:46:03 -0500 From: "Matt Graham" <mgraham@amcc.com> Subject: Replacement Bushings All, First off, I'm new to BMWs in general and M3s in particular, so bear with me if I asked stupid questions. I recently bought a '95 M3 to use as a track car. It will remain street legal, and won't go beyond SOLO1 levels of prep (BSP) for a while (i.e. roll bar, harnesses, but no cage). I plan to street drive the car (to work) when it's not raining or my wife doesn't commandeer it to drive it to work herself. In the interest of reliablility I've decided to start the modifications with rear shock mounts, tranny mounts (the UUC part) front control arms and rear camber arms. The car has almost 90k miles on it, and since I'm doing all this crap anyway, I figured it wasn't such a bad time to replace all the bushings in it as well. Now to the real question - should I go with stock bushings (all rubber I'm assuming) or some sort of aftermarket bushing (which I'm guessing would be poly, or some similar material)? Thanks in advance for any and all opinions and suggestions. Cheers, Matt Graham Durham, NC PS - If you're a track hound in the southeast, you may have seen me in a Blue C5 Corvette with NC tag "I SAY EH" before. The C5, I'm sad to say, met an untimely end. Le C5 et mort. Vive le M3. ;)
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#3. Assembly sequence for rear shock mounts - from David Flanary
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Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 11:31:59 -0800 From: "David Flanary" <dflanary@markhamvineyards.com> Subject: Assembly sequence for rear shock mounts I replaced my RSM's over the holiday. The car is stock, except for Bilsteins/H&R sports/E46M3 RSM's, all installed by a Indie BMW mechanic at 38K. Ever since the install, I have had some intermittent noises from the left rear. The mechanic tried to find the noise and couldn't, even installing another left rear Bilstein in an attempt to fix it. He could not see any evidence of contact elsewhere underneath the car ( muffler, sways, etc.). So, I lived with it for a year. At 51K, I started to get a nastier, crashing sound over larger bumps. So, I decide to replace the mounts and install the Z3 plates. This gets rid of the crashing noise but the minor noise continues. When R&Ring the mounts, I began to wonder about the way the washers were installed. At the lower side, where the shock meets the shock mount, the top of the dust shield (which contains a washer) bears against the mount. I think this is ok. But on the top of the mount, there is a large, concave washer. This washer has been installed facing up (think of a soup bowl), with a couple of smaller washers on top of it, followed by the shock nut. It seems like the concave washer should be facing down (like a mushroom) so that its outer edger bears against the top of the shock mount. This way, the center of this washer would bear against the metal center of the shock mount, and the outer part would be against the rubber out part of the mount. Anyone have any suggestions? Dave Flanary 99 ///M3
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#4. LTW wing - from dholeman
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Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 14:51:26 -0500 From: "dholeman" <dholeman@racepad.com> Subject: LTW wing I am sorry that Gerry is disappointed. I make it clear many times over to my customers and on the web site what the wing is and is not. This is a $500.00 wing not a $1300 OEM wing (plus add $270 for BMW NLA inserts) Installations may vary depending on who is doing the work and how the customer wants it done. This makes it difficult if not impossible to specify correct bolt sizes since I did not do the installation. This is a race part and is not intended for street use. David Holeman
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Assembly sequence for rear shock mounts - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 12:09:21 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Assembly sequence for rear shock mounts At 11:36 AM 1/2/03, David Flanary wrote: >Anyone have any suggestions? Hmm, as far as I can recall, they should be oriented as a "soup bowl". Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 - test/practice day at Sears Point tomorrow, wheee :-)
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Front Camber - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 14:21:25 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Front Camber "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> wrote: > > When swapping the hats 120 degrees back and forth between street > and track, does is really mess up the toe? Ahmad, Yep, it does. > (Altough toe is set static when the hat is installed). In a > nut shell, when adding camber, one gets toed out. That's is my experience as well. When I had first installed KMACs and set them to max camber (around -2.5 on both sides), I gained a LOT of toe out. I don't remember the exact amount as it was 2+ years ago, but I did post the details to this list and they might be archived somewhere. Long story short, I was frying the insides of my front tires on track/autoX. The insides were consistently +15+25F hotter than the outsides and turned blue after two events. That's how long it took me to get the hint and get the car properly aligned to zero toe up front. > Since I will be brining it back to stock hat setting after the > track and can use the extra bit of toe out. Ahmad, 1. you will get way too much toe change by adjusting the camber between 'street' and 'track' settings. 2. you are kidding yourself if you think you will be futzing with camber settings before and after every single event. Well, 'maybe' if you are club racing and have a portable alignment jig. That's it. Even if you have relatively 'easy' to adjust adjustable camber plates. > But I care about how much since I dont want to burn out my front > tires after a few laps. What is your experience on this? Read above. Whichever camber plates you choose to go with, get the car aligned to those settings and stick with them. > Secondly, would the toe be static when roated back from 120 to > normal setting? You mean will the toe return to stock once you set the camber plates back to stock? It should, though the purists might argue that the car needs to be realigned after each suspension reassembly. Hope this helps, alex f
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#7. driveline fluids - from Scott McClung
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Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 14:02:49 -0800 From: Scott McClung <scott.mcclung@ubicom.com> Subject: driveline fluids What is the recommended driveline fluid for the E36 M3. I'll be changing the fluids in the dif and trans (manual) shortly. Also - what is the capacity of each? TIA, Scott '98 M3
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#8. BMW Forged wheels for sale - from Scott McClung
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Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 14:09:00 -0800 From: Scott McClung <scott.mcclung@ubicom.com> Subject: BMW Forged wheels for sale I have a set of the staggered BMW factory forged wheels for sale. Good condition with some very minor road rash, probably 8 out of 10. Comes with stock sized MXX3's with nearly no tread on the rears and ~4/12ths on the fronts. $950 + shipping from San Jose (95135) Scott 408-499-2875 (cell phone)
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#9. 6-disc CD changer - from Scott McClung
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Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 14:10:42 -0800 From: Scott McClung <scott.mcclung@ubicom.com> Subject: 6-disc CD changer From my '98 M3. Very little use - car has 35K miles on it. $250 / offer + shipping from San Jose (95135) Scott 408-499-2875 (cell)
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#10. Re: [E36M3] driveline fluids - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 14:18:09 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] driveline fluids At 02:06 PM 1/2/03, Scott McClung wrote: >What is the recommended driveline fluid for the E36 M3. Recommended by whom? :-) You'll get as many different answers as you get replies, most likely. I currently am using: Royal Purple Synchromax in the tranny (trying it out from last change, usually use Red Line D4 ATF), Red Line 75W90 in the diff. >Also - what is the capacity of each? 1.3 quarts for the tranny, 1.8 quarts for the diff (i.e. get 2 quarts for each :-)). Cheers, Jim Bassett