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#1. RE: [E36M3] driveline fluids - from Scott McClung
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Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 14:26:01 -0800 From: Scott McClung <scott.mcclung@ubicom.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] driveline fluids I figured I'd use the Redline 75W90 in the diff, as I've used it in several cars previously. Do you use the one with the Limited Slip additive? Is the D4 ATF synthetic? I've heard from somewhere to use non synthetic in the trans, not sure why that is or who told me that... Scott -----Original Message----- From: Jim Bassett [mailto:jimbassett@attbi.com] Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2003 2:18 PM To: Scott McClung; E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] driveline fluids At 02:06 PM 1/2/03, Scott McClung wrote: >What is the recommended driveline fluid for the E36 M3. Recommended by whom? :-) You'll get as many different answers as you get replies, most likely. I currently am using: Royal Purple Synchromax in the tranny (trying it out from last change, usually use Red Line D4 ATF), Red Line 75W90 in the diff. >Also - what is the capacity of each? 1.3 quarts for the tranny, 1.8 quarts for the diff (i.e. get 2 quarts for each :-)). Cheers, Jim Bassett
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#2. RE: [E36M3] driveline fluids - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 15:02:04 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] driveline fluids At 02:36 PM 1/2/03, Scott McClung talked about: >I figured I'd use the Redline 75W90 in the diff, as >I've used it in several cars previously. Do you use >the one with the Limited Slip additive? Yes, since 75W90NS is the one *without* :-) >Is the D4 ATF synthetic? Yes. >I've heard from somewhere >to use non synthetic in the trans, not sure why that is >or who told me that... Dunno, but BMW specs a D4 ATF for our cars. Jim Bassett
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#3. Re: Assembly sequence for rear shock mounts - from Michael Kelley
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Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 18:29:00 -0500 From: "Michael Kelley" <mkelley@nc.rr.com> Subject: Re: Assembly sequence for rear shock mounts I couldn't remember how mine were oriented but I'm pretty sure it was as recommended in this write-up from Bavauto....the washers cup away from the RSM: http://bavarianautosport.com/Assets/inst_pages/RearShocksMounts.pdf Mike 98M3C > -------------------- 3 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 11:31:59 -0800 > From: "David Flanary" <dflanary@markhamvineyards.com> > Subject: Assembly sequence for rear shock mounts > > I replaced my RSM's over the holiday. The car is stock, except for > Bilsteins/H&R sports/E46M3 RSM's, all installed by a Indie BMW mechanic at > 38K. Ever since the install, I have had some intermittent noises from the > left rear. The mechanic tried to find the noise and couldn't, even > installing another left rear Bilstein in an attempt to fix it. He could not > see any evidence of contact elsewhere underneath the car ( muffler, sways, > etc.). So, I lived with it for a year. At 51K, I started to get a nastier, > crashing sound over larger bumps. > > So, I decide to replace the mounts and install the Z3 plates. This gets rid > of the crashing noise but the minor noise continues. When R&Ring the > mounts, I began to wonder about the way the washers were installed. At the > lower side, where the shock meets the shock mount, the top of the dust > shield (which contains a washer) bears against the mount. I think this is > ok. But on the top of the mount, there is a large, concave washer. This > washer has been installed facing up (think of a soup bowl), with a couple of > smaller washers on top of it, followed by the shock nut. > > It seems like the concave washer should be facing down (like a mushroom) so > that its outer edger bears against the top of the shock mount. This way, the > center of this washer would bear against the metal center of the shock > mount, and the outer part would be against the rubber out part of the mount. > > Anyone have any suggestions? > > > Dave Flanary > 99 ///M3
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#4. Re: Assembly sequence for rear shock mounts - from Jim Mihal
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Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 16:34:55 -0800 From: "Jim Mihal" <jmihal@jt-designs.com> Subject: Re: Assembly sequence for rear shock mounts David, Install with the top washer cup UP, bottom washer cup DOWN, any other way will bind up the mount. Jim Mihal Unique E36 M3 Specialties www.jt-designs.com Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 11:31:59 -0800 From: "David Flanary" <dflanary@markhamvineyards.com> Subject: Assembly sequence for rear shock mounts I replaced my RSM's over the holiday. The car is stock, except for Bilsteins/H&R sports/E46M3 RSM's, all installed by a Indie BMW mechanic at 38K. Ever since the install, I have had some intermittent noises from the left rear. The mechanic tried to find the noise and couldn't, even installing another left rear Bilstein in an attempt to fix it. He could not see any evidence of contact elsewhere underneath the car ( muffler, sways, etc.). So, I lived with it for a year. At 51K, I started to get a nastier, crashing sound over larger bumps. So, I decide to replace the mounts and install the Z3 plates. This gets rid of the crashing noise but the minor noise continues. When R&Ring the mounts, I began to wonder about the way the washers were installed. At the lower side, where the shock meets the shock mount, the top of the dust shield (which contains a washer) bears against the mount. I think this is ok. But on the top of the mount, there is a large, concave washer. This washer has been installed facing up (think of a soup bowl), with a couple of smaller washers on top of it, followed by the shock nut. It seems like the concave washer should be facing down (like a mushroom) so that its outer edger bears against the top of the shock mount. This way, the center of this washer would bear against the metal center of the shock mount, and the outer part would be against the rubber out part of the mount. Anyone have any suggestions? Dave Flanary 99 ///M3
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#5. Carfax help - from Michael
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Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 21:54:07 -0500 From: "Michael" <95m3ltw@charter.net> Subject: Carfax help Buying a transmission out of this car, could someone please run a carfax report on this vin so I can check the mileage thanks Mike WBACB4313PFL04687 325i
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Front Camber - from Ron Katona
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Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 11:16:43 -0500 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Front Camber I change camber settings before and after almost every autocross I do. The total toe change on a stock height tire (~24.4") is 12.2 minutes. or ..203 degrees, per side, per 1 degree camber change. Since you'll always change both sides of the car (unless you're doing NASCAR stuff in your M3 <g>), you'll get 24.4 minutes, .407 degrees, of TOTAL toe change by changing each strut 1 degree in camber. Going through my TC Kline plate's full 2 degrees of movement, I get 48.8 minutes, or .814 degrees of toe out *change* when adding two degrees negative camber, and vice versa. If your plates do not have a convenient and consistent max and min mechanical stop within the range you need, then I agree this is not practical. I also wouldn't think rotating the stock plates wouldn't be practical before every event. Now, translating to inches, that's .347" of total toe change for 2 degrees camber change. Splitting the difference, if you align the car with .1735" total toe in at minimum camber (about -1.5 on my car), then you'll end up with .1735" total toe out at max camber (-3.5 degrees for my example). That's a little less than 3/16ths, or a little more than 1/8th in or out. Yes, that's a *bit* much for either setting, but it's not extreme. For track work, that is too much toe out. For a lot daily driving, that's probably too much toe in. For autocross and some street driving it's fine. There are options, however; get yourself a camber gauge. The bubble ones are ok, the Smartcamber gauge is better (learn to calibrate it properly). Limit the change to one degree and then you'll have only ..087" in and out total toe on either side of your min/max camber settings. That's 1.4 16ths (if that makes sense) of total toe in or out. That's entirely workable for almost any type of driving. You can bias the toe in or out one way or another if, for instance, you absolutely don't want any toe out for the track. Making this measurement is easy. Jack the car up and measure the camber with the wheel in the air. It will show something silly like +5 degrees. Loosen the three nuts on top of the strut tower and tap the top of the tire with a rubber mallet to get to (for example) +4 degrees and you've made -1 degree of camber change. One degree is one degree whether the tire is on the ground, or in the air. To have repeatable measurements, you have to have the camber plate at one limit for either setting, however. In other words, the min or max camber should be a physical limit for the plate. That way you always have a solid reference point from which to start. I get -1.5 with the Kline plates as a minimum. I could jack the car up and let in one more degree negative per side, then at the end of the day just slam it back to the minimum setting and not worry about measuring it at all. The minimum camber should not change unless other parts of your suspension are worn. It takes literally less than five minutes extra per side when changing tires to perform this ritual, and that includes removing my strut tower bar. Now... somewhere around my messy computer desk I also have how much toe change is gained for each revolution of the tie rod... I'll let you know if I find it. Advanced students <g> can actually change camber and toe at the track or autocross with little fuss and get repeatable results. Do this over a year and your toe settings will drift, so get it aligned professionally on good equipment by a local race shop to keep a good baseline. But for the rest of the year you can do these alignments before every event and save a LOT of tire wear. I finally started doing this when I realized driving even short distances to autocrosses with 3.5 degrees of camber was going to cost me a lot in new tires since I don't own a trailer. It is important to start with a good square car, so take it someplace that can perform a competent performance alignment at the start of each season to establish that baseline. -- Ron Katona alex f wrote: > "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> wrote: > > [snip] > > Since I will be brining it back to stock hat setting after the > > track and can use the extra bit of toe out. > > Ahmad, > 1. you will get way too much toe change by adjusting the camber between > 'street' and 'track' settings. > 2. you are kidding yourself if you think you will be futzing with camber > settings before and after every single event. Well, 'maybe' if you are > club racing and have a portable alignment jig. That's it. Even if you have > relatively 'easy' to adjust adjustable camber plates. > > > But I care about how much since I dont want to burn out my front > > tires after a few laps. What is your experience on this? > > Read above. > Whichever camber plates you choose to go with, get the car aligned to > those settings and stick with them. > > > Secondly, would the toe be static when roated back from 120 to > > normal setting? > > You mean will the toe return to stock once you set the camber plates back > to stock? > It should, though the purists might argue that the car needs to be > realigned after each suspension reassembly. > > Hope this helps, > alex f > >
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#7. Feedback on new bushings and rsms - from The Buch
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Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 09:28:21 -0800 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Feedback on new bushings and rsms I have had my car back from the shop for a few days now, and wanted to report out on the following bushing replacements after 65,000mi on my '99 M3 ... 1. JT Designs rear shock mounts 2. OEM rear trailing arm bushings with Ground Control 'spacers' 3. OEM front lower control arm bushings 4. Alignment close to BMW's 'sport suspension' specs I am running the Streetline suspension (H&R OE Sports and Koni SAs), and I now realize I have been putting up with some 'squirrely' suspension performance for the last 15,000mi. This car is now handling like it did (or better than) when I drove it off the lot three years ago. I can not over-emphasize the value of these replacements in combination with aftermarket improvements. I have been complaining to the dealer about my handling concerns for nearly a year, and they continued to report nothing wrong with these bushing elements. However, once they had the suspension apart, wear was noteable. As another data point, I only got about 25,000mi out of the e46 rsms plus z3 reinforcement plates with the slightly stiffer Streetline suspension - pathetic. Regards, Doug
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#8. [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal - from Jeff_Wingstrom@jackmorton.com
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Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 15:11:42 -0600 From: Jeff_Wingstrom@jackmorton.com Subject: [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal Anybody know where I can buy the tool for holding the water pump pulley while wrenching on the 32mm bolt to get the fan off? Dealer parts counter does the blank stare thing and I can't find it online. I know Brett Anderson rents it out ($30) and I've seen mention of making your own with a slice of sheet metal and a drill... Or.. any other suggestions for holding that damn pulley still without said tool? I've never removed the fan myself, and whoever did last (dealer) musta tightened that sucker down big time because nothing I've tried short of the special tool has enabled me to loosen it. TIA for any suggestions! -Jeff
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#9. Re: [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal - from Zack Steinkamp
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Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 13:21:44 -0800 (PST) From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal i use a small screwdriver wedged between two of the bolt heads surrounding the big nut. also remember that the big nut is reverse-threaded, so if you are facing the car you will need to rotate the nut clockwise to loosen it. zs --- Jeff_Wingstrom@jackmorton.com wrote: > Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 15:11:42 -0600 > From: Jeff_Wingstrom@jackmorton.com > Subject: [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal > > Anybody know where I can buy the tool for holding > the water pump pulley > while wrenching on the 32mm bolt to get the fan off? > Dealer parts counter > does the blank stare thing and I can't find it > online. I know Brett > Anderson rents it out ($30) and I've seen mention of > making your own with > a slice of sheet metal and a drill... > > Or.. any other suggestions for holding that damn > pulley still without > said tool? I've never removed the fan myself, and > whoever did last > (dealer) musta tightened that sucker down big time > because nothing I've > tried short of the special tool has enabled me to > loosen it. TIA for any > suggestions! > > -Jeff > > > > > ************************************************* > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#10. Re: [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal - from Chester Wong
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Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 13:31:34 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal I have the tool, but have never used it because it's somewhat of a pain. If you hit 32mm wrench sharply enough, it will spin off usually. Chester --- Jeff_Wingstrom@jackmorton.com wrote: > Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 15:11:42 -0600 > From: Jeff_Wingstrom@jackmorton.com > Subject: [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal > > Anybody know where I can buy the tool for holding the water pump pulley > while wrenching on the 32mm bolt to get the fan off? Dealer parts counter > does the blank stare thing and I can't find it online. I know Brett > Anderson rents it out ($30) and I've seen mention of making your own with > a slice of sheet metal and a drill... > > Or.. any other suggestions for holding that damn pulley still without > said tool? I've never removed the fan myself, and whoever did last > (dealer) musta tightened that sucker down big time because nothing I've > tried short of the special tool has enabled me to loosen it. TIA for any > suggestions! > > -Jeff > > > > > ************************************************* > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > =====
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#11. Re: [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 15:34:53 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal Jeff_Wingstrom@jackmorton.com wrote: > > Anybody know where I can buy the tool for holding the water pump > pulley while wrenching on the 32mm bolt to get the fan off? Jeff, You don't need a tool. Put a thin long 32mm wrench on the fan and whack it real good (reverse threaded!) with a rubber mallet. Repeat as necessary and it will come off. If it's not coming off, you are not whacking it hard enough. <Do the following at your own risk> During installation, have a helper turn the engine over as you hold the fan and press it against the water pump. Once it catches, let go and get your hands away from the spinning fan blades. Or tell the helper to either kill the engine after a few revolutions or pull the fuel pump fuse to keep it from starting. If the fan clutch is cold, the blades will free wheel on the clutch, but I still prefer to get my hands out as soon as possible. The alternative method is trying to rotate the fan as you are pushing it horizontally onto the water pump. Very time consuming and frustrating. But safer and does not require a helper. alex f