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#1. Re: [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal - from Jeff_Wingstrom@jackmorton.com
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Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 15:43:14 -0600 From: Jeff_Wingstrom@jackmorton.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal alex.fadeev@verizon.com wrote, --- Jeff, You don't need a tool. Put a thin long 32mm wrench on the fan and whack it real good (reverse threaded!) with a rubber mallet. Repeat as necessary and it will come off. If it's not coming off, you are not whacking it hard enough. --- hmm... trouble is, the pulley rotates inside the belt. Believe me, I whacked it good <g>. Oddly I had no trouble at all fitting a big Ace adjustable wrench down there onto the 32mm bolt. Room to spare. -Jeff will try whacking again tonight w/ screwdriver as brace.. thanks all.
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#2. RE: Effect of tie rod turns on toe (was: Front Camber) - from BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)
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Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 16:59:44 -0500 From: "BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)" <bill_boom@hp.com> Subject: RE: Effect of tie rod turns on toe (was: Front Camber) > From: Ron Katona <rkatona@cox.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Front Camber > > Now... somewhere around my messy computer desk I also have > how much toe > change is gained for each revolution of the tie rod... As a ballpark, I know that one full turn of the tie rod equals right around 1/3" of toe on that wheel. - Bill
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#3. Re: [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 16:06:26 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal Jeff_Wingstrom@jackmorton.com wrote: > > > alex.fadeev@verizon.com wrote, > > > > Jeff, > > You don't need a tool. > > Put a thin long 32mm wrench on the fan and whack it real good > > (reverse threaded!) with a rubber mallet. > > Repeat as necessary and it will come off. If it's not coming off, > > you are not whacking it hard enough. > > > hmm... trouble is, the pulley rotates inside the belt. Believe me, > I whacked it good <g>. Oddly I had no trouble at all fitting a big > Ace adjustable wrench down there onto the 32mm bolt. Room to spare. Jeff, I believe that's your problem right there: a far adjustable wrench is binding on the water pump pulley bolts and rotating the pulley with the fan clutch. Thus the force of you 'whack' is transferred to the pulley and just rotates it inside the belt, not the fan clutch. That's the reason for using a thin 32mm wrench. alex f
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#4. RE: [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal - from Doug Wirth
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Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 14:09:23 -0800 From: Doug Wirth <DWirth@SERENA.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal You can get a thin 32m wrench from any bike shop for about $8 Doug Wirth *********************************************************************** This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. ***********************************************************************
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#5. fan and other BMW tools - from dholeman
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Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 17:27:18 -0500 From: "dholeman" <dholeman@racepad.com> Subject: fan and other BMW tools Hi, Someone was looking for sources for BMW tools (fan). Here are some sources: http://www.technictool.com/bmwtools.htm http://www.autospecialtytools.com http://www.etoolcart.com/productgroup.asp?33=16 http://www.sirtools.com/ http://www.autospecialtytools.com/cgi-bin/dyn.exe?doc=sirtoolsindex1.dht&
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#6. Re: [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 17:23:29 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal alex.fadeev@verizon.com writes: > <Do the following at your own risk> > During installation, have a helper turn the engine over as you hold the > fan and press it against the water pump. Once it catches, let go and get > your hands away from the spinning fan blades. Or tell the helper to either > kill the engine after a few revolutions or pull the fuel pump fuse to keep > it from starting. If the fan clutch is cold, the blades will free wheel on > the clutch, but I still prefer to get my hands out as soon as possible. > > alex f > Believe me, this is how Alex installs BMW fans. First time I saw him was when he helped me replace the water pump on my M3. He volunteered to hold the fan while I cranked the engine. I did make him sign a waiver (while he still had hands!) that he wouldn't sue me. But believe it or not, this works slick as a whistle. I've since done it a couple of times. I'll bet you won't find this methodology in Bentley's! As for trouble removing the fan. Others have mentioned that the fan nut is REVERSE threaded. Make sure you are trying to turn it the right direction. Reverse threaded nuts are so rare you have to think which direction to go. And if that doesn't fail, like Alex said - just use a bigger hammer and hit harder. ;-) Lowell Seaton '95 M3 - currently fanless Dallas, Texas
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#7. Re: Front Camber - from Joe Tan
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Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 15:24:51 -0800 (PST) From: Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Front Camber It seems like swaping the '96+ strut hats is a popular mods. However I would like to warn those people that if you look closely at the design of the '96+ hat. In it's original setup the back has some ribbed reinforcement to witdstand the punishment of the road while the front side does not have this. If you swap them you will have the front facing the back and the back facing the front and therefore your strut hats will not have the proper reinforment underneath. This might not be a problem at all but there must be a reason why they welded the reinforcement piece in there. Just a thought. Joe. '98 M3/4 __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Front Camber - from Chris Teague
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Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 15:35:11 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Front Camber Joe, I am not sure I follow you on this. There is an arrow pointing forward. When you swap the hats L to R side, the arrow should still be facing forward. The reinforcements will be in the same place. But you will have a lot more camber. The L front will still be in front, just on the R side, and visa versa. Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 15:24:51 -0800 (PST) > From: Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: Front Camber > > It seems like swaping the '96+ strut hats is a popular > mods. However I would like to warn those people that > if you look closely at the design of the '96+ hat. In > it's original setup the back has some ribbed > reinforcement to witdstand the punishment of the road > while the front side does not have this. If you swap > them you will have the front facing the back and the > back facing the front and therefore your strut hats > will not have the proper reinforment underneath. This > might not be a problem at all but there must be a > reason why they welded the reinforcement piece in > there. Just a thought. > > Joe. > '98 M3/4
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#9. RE: [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal - from Carey Probst
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Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 18:49:29 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal Might want to use a big screwdriver for that. I snapped the end (well past the tapered part) on a Craftsman large driver hitting the 32 mm wrench on the E30. Now I have to explain to Sears how the screwdriver just snapped. Don't understand it. Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. -----Original Message----- From: Zack Steinkamp [mailto:edsarkiss@yahoo.com] Sent: Friday, January 03, 2003 4:27 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 13:21:44 -0800 (PST) From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal i use a small screwdriver wedged between two of the bolt heads surrounding the big nut. also remember that the big nut is reverse-threaded, so if you are facing the car you will need to rotate the nut clockwise to loosen it. zs --- Jeff_Wingstrom@jackmorton.com wrote: > Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 15:11:42 -0600 > From: Jeff_Wingstrom@jackmorton.com > Subject: [E36M3] that special tool for fan removal > > Anybody know where I can buy the tool for holding > the water pump pulley > while wrenching on the 32mm bolt to get the fan off? > Dealer parts counter > does the blank stare thing and I can't find it > online. I know Brett > Anderson rents it out ($30) and I've seen mention of > making your own with > a slice of sheet metal and a drill... > > Or.. any other suggestions for holding that damn > pulley still without > said tool? I've never removed the fan myself, and > whoever did last > (dealer) musta tightened that sucker down big time > because nothing I've > tried short of the special tool has enabled me to > loosen it. TIA for any > suggestions! > > -Jeff > > > > > ************************************************* > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > ************************************************* DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10. My temp gauge is a-wandering... - from Steve Walsh
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Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 21:31:07 -0800 From: Steve Walsh <stevewalsh@earthlink.net> Subject: My temp gauge is a-wandering... The temp gauge on my 1993 325is isn't showing it's stead-fast 12 o'clock position lately. Background - 1993 325is, 207K miles; 50+ track days, about 10 track days a year, but mostly instructing not driving for the past 2yrs; original engine; 4th radiator - 1st lost to broken plastic neck, 2nd to accident, 3rd to incorrect accident repair - maybe 30k miles on current one; no vicious-coupled fan, just the lower temp. aux-fan switch for the aux fan; no overheats - ever, including track days at 100 degrees, and a/c on the drive home. But for the past 2 weeks the gauge will climb to 12 o'clock from cold, but will sometimes drop 2 needle-widths into the cold side when I'm at 75+ in 50 degree or less temps. Going faster will bring the temp up slightly, slowing to 50 will drop it a hair. Normal surburban-street speeds (35-40) brings it back to normal too. Is it just cold? Is the sensor going bad ? Is it a portent of imminent doom ?