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#1. Oil Service light reset - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 14:36:32 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Oil Service light reset >>How do those of you that do your own service reset the dash lights back to all green?<< Its alot easier than you think. Simply run a jumper made of some twisted copper wire from pin 17 to pin 11 in the under hood diagnostic connector! Put the ignition in position II. For an oil reset, connect the jumper for about 3 seconds, and remove it. For an Inspection reset, connect it for approx. 11 seconds and remove it. Reset occurs with jumper removal. Turn the ignition off and on again to check your work. See how easy? Just make sure youre jumpering the right pins. Use a strong flashlight to see them; theyre numbered next to each pin in the black plastic. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Oil Service light reset - from DocWyte
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Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 12:19:21 -0800 (PST) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil Service light reset I used to use a wire to jump the contacts. Then I bought a used Peake Research tool from someone on the list. Now I use that, it can read fault codes and clear the check engine lite as well. Very cool. -josh --- Allen Hyman <allen.hyman@starcore-dsp.com> wrote: > Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 12:56:53 -0600 > From: "Allen Hyman" <allen.hyman@starcore-dsp.com> > Subject: Oil Service light reset > > > How do those of you that do your own service reset > the dash lights back > to all green? > > =20 > > Thanks, > > Al=20 > > 99M3 > > =20 > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > ===== Josh Wyte Momentum Motorsports 508-833-3024 After 5 pm EST __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com
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#3. Radiator - from Edward N Frank
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Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 17:46:03 -0500 From: "Edward N Frank" <enf@iglou.com> Subject: Radiator Just had my main radiator hose blow off its fitting on the radiator side. Clamp remained on hose. I replaced fluids and tightened it down. It happened again almost immediately. Any ideas as to why? My guess is pressure build up from maybe the thermostat sticking. It never ran long when it came of but did smoke both times. Temp never got to red line. Any dangers here to worry about. Ed Frank 97 M3/4
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#4. Cracked rear shock tower--resolution - from Don Chaney
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Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 17:22:44 -0600 From: "Don Chaney" <chaneydon@hotmail.com> Subject: Cracked rear shock tower--resolution I wanted to share some info with the list on the above problem. My RSM ripped through the sheet metal on the passenger side, apparently due to the age of the car (95M3 w/ 73k miles), poor roads in Chicago, Konis, and a fair amount of track duty. I received some helpful advice from some list members--you can drive the car w/o a shock FYI. I ordered the BMW parts to repair the shock tower--2 for each side from Pacific BMW (p/n 41-14-8-169-027 and 028, surprisingly inexpensive at only $8.02 each). The 2 supports for each side are used to sandwich the shock tower, one piece goes on top and one on the bottom. I had the supports welded on by a local body shop, they also rust-proofed the entire area inside and out, it looks pretty good and its not obvious it has been repaired. This cost $450, not including all the dirty work of removing and reinstalling the carpeting, speakers, etc. I put on the Z3 plates (p/n 51-71-8-413-359 $10.38 each) for good measure and I am back on the road. It may be overkill, but hopefully this particular problem is solved for good. Moral of the story is to add the Z3 plates if you havnt had this problem yet. Not sure if they would have prevented it, but I think they would have helped. Don 95 M3
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#5. Alum 2.8 block/with 3.2 internals? - from GGray657@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 20:57:14 EST From: GGray657@aol.com Subject: Alum 2.8 block/with 3.2 internals? Anyone ever build a 3.2 motor with the 2.8 Alum block? I am thinking of doing one fro my 95 Gary
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#6. Mikes ex-yellow M3 - from Tim Ng
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Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 18:40:55 -0800 From: "Tim Ng" <s14realm3@peachtreebmwcca.org> Subject: Mikes ex-yellow M3 Hi all, a few have asked me whats wrong with Mike's ex-M3. The fact is that Mike sold the car 2.5 yrs ago to someone else and that owner sold it now to the current owner. I wasn't infering that Mike sold the car to the current owner so if that is what you read or the way I expressed it, then I am wrong. So my point was just asking if Mike knew what the current owner has plans for that car, club racer or street car. Tim Ng 95 E36 M3 BzznM3 92 E30 325ic M-tech convetible 91 E30 M3 street car 88 E30 M3 Track car 93 Chevy Blazer 2 dr. tow vehicle
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Alum 2.8 block/with 3.2 internals? - from Patrick Buthmann
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Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 21:57:49 -0500 From: "Patrick Buthmann" <patrick@teutonic.ca> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Alum 2.8 block/with 3.2 internals? The US spec 2.8L block is actually cast iron, not aluminum. Only in Europe was the 2.8L motor aluminum (the 2.5L M50 is aluminum however). You can use the crank, but I believe the max you can bore out the 2.8L block is to about 86mm, which would leave you with a maximum displacement of 3.1L. Given how cheap used 3.2L blocks appear to be nowadays, I'd have to wonder what use it would be to build a 3.1L motor for more money.... Pat -----Original Message----- From: GGray657@aol.com [mailto:GGray657@aol.com] Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2003 9:01 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Alum 2.8 block/with 3.2 internals? Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 20:57:14 EST From: GGray657@aol.com Subject: Alum 2.8 block/with 3.2 internals? Anyone ever build a 3.2 motor with the 2.8 Alum block? I am thinking of doing one fro my 95 Gary ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Alum 2.8 block/with 3.2 internals? - from Andrew-Taylor Autosport
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 00:38:35 -0500 From: "Andrew-Taylor Autosport" <astaylor@taylorautosport.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Alum 2.8 block/with 3.2 internals? > Given how cheap used 3.2L blocks appear to be nowadays, I'd have to > wonder what use it would be to build a 3.1L motor for more money.... > 60 lbs off the heavy end. Andrew
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Alum 2.8 block/with 3.2 internals? - from Matt Malfa * UUC Motorwerks
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 01:23:18 -0500 From: "Matt Malfa * UUC Motorwerks" <matt@shortshifter.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Alum 2.8 block/with 3.2 internals? -----Original Message----- From: Patrick Buthmann >The US spec 2.8L block is actually cast iron, not aluminum. Only in >Europe was the 2.8L motor aluminum (the 2.5L M50 is aluminum however). US Spec Z3 2.8s had the aluminum block with iron sleeves. Unfortunately, the sleeves don't leave much room for an overbore. BTDT. -----Original Message----- From: Andrew-Taylor Autosport >60 lbs off the heavy end. According to my shop scale, not even that much. Like so many performance/dollar questions for the E36 M3, this one also points toward tweaking the nut behind the wheel as a better alternative. Shocking, isn't it? ;-) - -Matt
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Alum 2.8 block/with 3.2 internals? - from Patrick Buthmann
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 03:41:04 -0500 From: "Patrick Buthmann" <patrick@teutonic.ca> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Alum 2.8 block/with 3.2 internals? Ooops...my bad, forgot about the Z3. I was just looking at *normal* E36 models... ;-) However, I've heard that the weight difference is about 40-45 lbs max, (actually 20 kgs) and with the iron sleeves, about the most you can do is stroke it. You'd still be looking at a 3.0L max displacement motor (3024cc's actually), and highly undersquare (84 mm bore vs 91 mm stroke). It would certainly be a torquey bugger, but it could be tough to make it breathe well above 5500-6000 RPM. Reliability could be an issue, especially as you try to get the engine north of 300 HP (which the 3.2L can do and maintain decent reliability). As a track car, I'm not sure if 40lbs of sprung weight is enough to offset the loss of high RPM power, and some potential reliability issues. I'd think that 40 lbs could easily be made up by 20-25 HP in a competition environment, and even less under driving school conditions. While I agree that mass is the enemy on the race track, I'm not convinced that I'd go looking for 40 lbs under the hood for that kind of money. JMHO. Pat -----Original Message----- From: Matt Malfa * UUC Motorwerks [mailto:matt@shortshifter.com] Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 1:31 AM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Alum 2.8 block/with 3.2 internals? Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 01:23:18 -0500 From: "Matt Malfa * UUC Motorwerks" <matt@shortshifter.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Alum 2.8 block/with 3.2 internals? -----Original Message----- From: Patrick Buthmann >The US spec 2.8L block is actually cast iron, not aluminum. Only in >Europe was the 2.8L motor aluminum (the 2.5L M50 is aluminum however). US Spec Z3 2.8s had the aluminum block with iron sleeves. Unfortunately, the sleeves don't leave much room for an overbore. BTDT. -----Original Message----- From: Andrew-Taylor Autosport >60 lbs off the heavy end. According to my shop scale, not even that much. Like so many performance/dollar questions for the E36 M3, this one also points toward tweaking the nut behind the wheel as a better alternative. Shocking, isn't it? ;-) - -Matt ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************