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#1. Help finding noise. - from bmw
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 05:24:52 -0800 (PST) From: bmw <m3lawdawg@yahoo.com> Subject: Help finding noise. OK, this is driving me nuts. When going over indentions in the road,I avoid pot holes if I can, I hear a clunk coming from the rear of the car, more so on the drivers side than on the passenger side. Between me a friend and the mechanic we can not find the source. The following has been done to the car. Eibach bars, H&R sport springs Koni shocks new e46 RSM W/Z3 plates New sway bar links New 96 training arm bushings W/GC inserts I have checked and there are no cracks in the shock tower mounts. I thought it might have been the GC inserts so I took them out, the noise was still there. I thought one of the Konis might be bad so I swaped them L and R, but the noise remained mostly on the drivers side. Last weekend while doing the clutch I put in new sway bar links, noise still there. Thinking that maybe the springs have settled a bit and now the car sits a bit lower, that the sway bar or exhaust is hitting. I wraped a rubber hose around where they could be hitting, hoping this would be it. The noise was still there, with no change in sound by maybe hitting the rubber hose. My next step is to use 10mm spring pads to raise the car a bit, I was wanting to do this anyway so I hope it helps. THe sound appeared not to long after putting in the new RTAB, when I took out the GC inserts they still looked good no cracking or rips. The sound seems to come when the rear wheel dips down and then compresses quickly. I hope you guys can offer some suggestions, I want to find this before VIR in March. Tony __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com
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#2. E36M3 #2860 - from Charles R
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 08:37:13 -0500 From: "Charles R" <Chasliv@directvinternet.com> Subject: E36M3 #2860 Hi All, Can anyone comment on the M-Roadster intake boot upgrade that Kit mentions below? Does this work inconjunction with a euro HFM? Will it fit a 7/95 build M? Regards, Chas Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2003 03:32:42 +0000 From: kim.burgess@att.net Subject: MANIFOLD FLOW KIT - I was under the impression that the intake improvements were only realized on the OD-I engines? Do you have pictures to show the differential sizes? Potentially if the reduction in port size is in the manifold (smaller in manifold) and not at the head - then it is port velocity that is achieved and manifold-to-head port matching is not required for peak flow from the factory. I believe someone on this list has accomplished quite a bit of flow bench testing and determined no benefit to the OB-II flow numbers. The smallest point in the intake tract is the ASC throttle body. Even when fully open, it is the smallest point. Last weekend, I replaced my 97 m3's intake manifold and the ASC throttle body with an OBD-1 intake manifold and an M-roadster intake boot. Car feels much faster, although with some loss of torque around 3000 rpm... it feels a lot faster after 4000rpm though. I would do the intake manifold and remove the ASC, first. The intake manifold on the 3.2l cars is TINY! the intake ports are sized for the obd-1 manifold, and the manifold ports are about 50% smaller than the intake ports. -kit
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Help finding noise. - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 06:52:37 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help finding noise. This is a long shot, but it may be your problem. I had a similar problem. Got under the car and did several things. Tightening diff bolts, RSM bolts, lower shock bolts, etc. But, there was one thing I could do to replicate the sound when I was under there. It was to wiggle the e-brake cable on the driver's side. It goes thru a rubber grommet, in a bracket, attached to the floor pan, forward of the upper control arm. The grommet wasn't soft anymore, had shrunken and wasn't firmly holding the cable. Allowing it to move up and down when hitting bumps and slapping the floor pan. I took a short length of poly hose, like used to bleed brakes, and forced it into the hole so the e-brake cable wouldn't flop around anymore. Just to take up some space. But, to allow some flexing. Not sure if this was what fixed my problem. But, the noise is gone. Good luck - Jay At 07:30 AM 1/13/03 -0600, you wrote: >Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 05:24:52 -0800 (PST) >From: bmw <m3lawdawg@yahoo.com> >Subject: Help finding noise. > >OK, this is driving me nuts. >When going over indentions in the road,I avoid pot >holes if I can, I hear a clunk coming from the rear of >the car, more so on the drivers side than on the >passenger side. >Between me a friend and the mechanic we can not find >the source. >The following has been done to the car. >Eibach bars, >H&R sport springs >Koni shocks >new e46 RSM W/Z3 plates >New sway bar links >New 96 training arm bushings W/GC inserts > >I have checked and there are no cracks in the shock >tower mounts. >I thought it might have been the GC inserts so I took >them out, the noise was still there. >I thought one of the Konis might be bad so I swaped >them L and R, but the noise remained mostly on the >drivers side. >Last weekend while doing the clutch I put in new sway >bar links, noise still there. >Thinking that maybe the springs have settled a bit and >now the car sits a bit lower, >that the sway bar or exhaust is hitting. >I wraped a rubber hose around where they could be >hitting, hoping this would be it. The noise was still >there, with no change in sound by maybe hitting the >rubber hose. >My next step is to use 10mm spring pads to raise the >car a bit, I was wanting to do this anyway so I hope >it helps. > >THe sound appeared not to long after putting in the >new RTAB, when I took out the GC inserts they still >looked good no cracking or rips. > >The sound seems to come when the rear wheel dips down >and then compresses quickly. > >I hope you guys can offer some suggestions, I want to >find this before VIR in March. > >Tony > >__________________________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. >http://mailplus.yahoo.com > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > >
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#4. RE LTW flywheel first impressions - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 09:56:26 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: RE LTW flywheel first impressions Tony says > > As far clutch chatter goes, when I first started the > car Mike looked at me and said I don't here any noise, > thats a good sign. He had told me the last LTW > flywheel he put made alot of noise. Why would you get clutch chatter with a brand new clutch? Regards, Rich
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#5. Input shaft seal?? - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 09:57:52 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Input shaft seal?? You have to be very careful not to scratch or mar the Input Shaft when removing the old seal or installing the new one. You don't need the special tool but it helps some to ensure proper installation the first time. If you have a leak, take a close look at the Input shaft itself and hope that it isn't the reason there is a leak. Hopefully the seal you put in was bunged up before you installed it and you just need to install another one. The tool costs what, something like $20 IIRC. Be sure the seal is in good shape before installing (smooth, burr free, proper spring ring inside, etc.). I bought two the last time I installed one (Murphy's Law) and now I have one sitting on the shelf :-) Good luck, Rich
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#6. Re: Oil Service light reset - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 10:34:55 -0500 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Oil Service light reset Paul, I'm not sure where you got pins 17 and 11 from. The SI Reset is Pin 7, and it should be connected to Ground via either Pin 19, or just a direct ground to the engine block. http://www.unofficialbmw.com/repair_faqs/sil.html The Peake tool connects to 7 and 19 for the new style (1989 to present) diagnostic connector. Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata >Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 14:36:32 -0500 >From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> >Subject: Oil Service light reset > > >>How do those of you that do your own service reset the dash lights back >to >all green?<< > >Its alot easier than you think. Simply run a jumper made of some twisted >copper wire from pin 17 to pin 11 in the under hood diagnostic connector! > >Put the ignition in position II. For an oil reset, connect the jumper for >about 3 seconds, and remove it. For an Inspection reset, connect it for >approx. 11 seconds and remove it. Reset occurs with jumper removal. Turn >the ignition off and on again to check your work. See how easy? Just make >sure youre jumpering the right pins. Use a strong flashlight to see them; >theyre numbered next to each pin in the black plastic. > >Paul Elliott _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
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#7. Re: Oil Service light reset - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 11:12:09 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: Oil Service light reset Yes...youre absolutely right...Its pins 19 and pins 7. I wrote to the author of the question and immiately corrected myself, but I had forgotten I also released this misinformation to the digest. Forgive the pin mixup. Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> To: <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Cc: <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 10:34 AM Subject: Re: Oil Service light reset > Paul, > > I'm not sure where you got pins 17 and 11 from. The SI Reset is Pin 7, and > it should be connected to Ground via either Pin 19, or just a direct ground > to the engine block. > > http://www.unofficialbmw.com/repair_faqs/sil.html > > The Peake tool connects to 7 and 19 for the new style (1989 to present) > diagnostic connector. > > Ron Buchalski > BMWCCA #76387 > 1995 E36 M3 > 1993 E34 525iT > 1999 Mazda Miata > > > >Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 14:36:32 -0500 > >From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> > >Subject: Oil Service light reset > > > > >>How do those of you that do your own service reset the dash lights back > >to > >all green?<< > > > >Its alot easier than you think. Simply run a jumper made of some twisted > >copper wire from pin 17 to pin 11 in the under hood diagnostic connector! > > > >Put the ignition in position II. For an oil reset, connect the jumper for > >about 3 seconds, and remove it. For an Inspection reset, connect it for > >approx. 11 seconds and remove it. Reset occurs with jumper removal. Turn > >the ignition off and on again to check your work. See how easy? Just make > >sure youre jumpering the right pins. Use a strong flashlight to see them; > >theyre numbered next to each pin in the black plastic. > > > >Paul Elliott > > > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE* > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus > >
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#8. Cracked rear shock tower--resolution - from Darling Christopher O Maj ACSC Student AY03
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 10:44:15 -0600 From: Darling Christopher O Maj ACSC Student AY03 <Christopher.Darling@MAXWELL.AF.MIL> Subject: Cracked rear shock tower--resolution Just for a reminder for me: do the Z3 plates go "on top" of the shock tower (inside the trunk), or underneath (inside the wheel well)??? Cod -------------------- 4 -------------------- Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 17:22:44 -0600 From: "Don Chaney" <chaneydon@hotmail.com> Subject: Cracked rear shock tower--resolution Moral of the story is to add the Z3 plates if you havnt had this problem yet. Not sure if they would have prevented it, but I think they would have helped. Don 95 M3 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------
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#9. Part Numbers... - from Mark Kern
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 09:08:20 -0800 From: "Mark Kern" <markkern@cox.net> Subject: Part Numbers... Hey folks: I'm about to install a Parrot hand-free, Bluetooth cell phone kit into my e36 M3. I would like the install to be as stealth as possible, so I want to use the mic placement of the standard BMW phone kit (roof, by mirror, across from sunroof switch). Does anyone have a part number for the BMW mic or, more importantly, the mic grill that clips into place on this panel? Thanks, Mark P.S. Would love to hear if anyone else has installed the Parrot kit and hear experiences about the best way to install, etc.
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Cracked rear shock tower--resolution - from John Van Houten
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 11:15:32 -0600 From: "John Van Houten" <jvh_lists@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cracked rear shock tower--resolution > Just for a reminder for me: do the Z3 plates go "on top" of the shock tower > (inside the trunk), or underneath (inside the wheel well)??? On top, in the trunk. Make a sandwich of the shock tower with the shock mount and the Z3 plate. jvh