-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re: [E36M3] Cracked rear shock tower--resolution - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 09:23:59 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cracked rear shock tower--resolution On top, in the car. For the bottom, you have the RSM itself that distributes the load. Chester --- Darling@yahoo.com, UNEXPECTED_DATA_AFTER_ADDRESS@.SYNTAX-ERROR. wrote: > Just for a reminder for me: do the Z3 plates go "on top" of the shock tower > (inside the trunk), or underneath (inside the wheel well)??? > > Cod =====
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Suspension questions - from Luis Rueda
Top
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 12:39:23 -0500 From: "Luis Rueda" <Luis_Rueda@Interliant.com> Subject: Suspension questions Gang, Since my GF now "owns" my old '95 M3, she has been complaining that the suspension (Bilstein/ H&R sports)is a bit too stiff for her as well as a little too low . My chioces are to install the stock springs back on (not as stiff & low) & keep the current Bilsteins (would trimming the front bumbstops on the Bilsteins help?) or replace everything w/Koni SAs & stock springs. Does anybody here care to comment how would these two different setups compare? I would assume that the Koni setup would be (or can be made) a lot more compliant since it's adjustable but I'm curious by how much. TIA, Luis BMWCCA member
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Re: [E36M3] Help finding noise. - from Scott Yu
Top
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 09:52:12 -0800 (PST) From: Scott Yu <segascott@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help finding noise. Howdy there, One more possible thing to check for: does the clunking occur under braking? I tore most of my rear suspension apart looking for a clunking, then realized it only occurred when braking. Long story short, I had not tightened the caliper guide pins enough the last time I did a pad change, and the rear driver's caliper was clunking over bumps unless I had the brakes engaged. just another fun thing to think about ;) scott --- bmw <m3lawdawg@yahoo.com> wrote: > I have checked and there are no cracks in the shock > tower mounts. > I thought it might have been the GC inserts so I > took > them out, the noise was still there. > I thought one of the Konis might be bad so I swaped > them L and R, but the noise remained mostly on the > drivers side. > Last weekend while doing the clutch I put in new > sway > bar links, noise still there. > Thinking that maybe the springs have settled a bit > and > now the car sits a bit lower, > that the sway bar or exhaust is hitting. > I wraped a rubber hose around where they could be > hitting, hoping this would be it. The noise was > still > there, with no change in sound by maybe hitting the > rubber hose. > My next step is to use 10mm spring pads to raise the > car a bit, I was wanting to do this anyway so I hope > it helps. > > THe sound appeared not to long after putting in the > new RTAB, when I took out the GC inserts they still > looked good no cracking or rips. > > The sound seems to come when the rear wheel dips > down > and then compresses quickly. __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. RE: Help finding noise - from Chip Mitchell
Top
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 13:25:27 -0500 From: "Chip Mitchell" <chipm@arches.uga.edu> Subject: RE: Help finding noise Go through and check every possible nut and bolt in the rear of the car. I had a clunk like this that turned out to be a loose camber bolt on the rear wheel (at the end of the control arm). Good luck. ChipM -------------------- 1 -------------------- Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 05:24:52 -0800 (PST) From: bmw <m3lawdawg@yahoo.com> Subject: Help finding noise. OK, this is driving me nuts. When going over indentions in the road,I avoid pot holes if I can, I hear a clunk coming from the rear of the car, more so on the drivers side than on the passenger side. Between me a friend and the mechanic we can not find the source. The following has been done to the car. Eibach bars, H&R sport springs Koni shocks new e46 RSM W/Z3 plates New sway bar links New 96 training arm bushings W/GC inserts I have checked and there are no cracks in the shock tower mounts. I thought it might have been the GC inserts so I took them out, the noise was still there. I thought one of the Konis might be bad so I swaped them L and R, but the noise remained mostly on the drivers side. Last weekend while doing the clutch I put in new sway bar links, noise still there. Thinking that maybe the springs have settled a bit and now the car sits a bit lower, that the sway bar or exhaust is hitting. I wraped a rubber hose around where they could be hitting, hoping this would be it. The noise was still there, with no change in sound by maybe hitting the rubber hose. My next step is to use 10mm spring pads to raise the car a bit, I was wanting to do this anyway so I hope it helps. THe sound appeared not to long after putting in the new RTAB, when I took out the GC inserts they still looked good no cracking or rips. The sound seems to come when the rear wheel dips down and then compresses quickly. I hope you guys can offer some suggestions, I want to find this before VIR in March. Tony __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. RE: [E36M3] Alum 2.8 block/with 3.2 internals? - from Carl Stern
Top
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 11:29:37 -0700 From: Carl Stern <Carl.Stern@xilinx.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Alum 2.8 block/with 3.2 internals? I assume the 3.2l block is a bored and stroked 3.0 block? What are the bore and stroke limits for this block (assuming reasonable longevity)? thanks, Carl Stern
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. U.S. 3.2 OBD I 95 M3-Won't start!! - from RacerxJLing@aol.com
Top
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 13:53:33 EST From: RacerxJLing@aol.com Subject: U.S. 3.2 OBD I 95 M3-Won't start!! Hello- Just did the following in a 95 (7/95 build date) M3 w/ 105xxx miles: Had a RMS SC/euro hfm/3.0 U.S. motor Dropped in a U.S. 3.2 in lieu of the 3.0 w/ the RMS SC/euro hfm Car ran fine for 60k miles w/ the SC/euro hfm/3.0 Car will turn over and dash lights on but now it won't start w/ the 3.2. Car's battery was completely dead for about 2 months. I heard something about the ecu having to be reset after being dead for a period of time. Is this the same as the EWS "realignment" I've been reading about? Any other ideas? Thanks Jeff 95 M3/RMS SC/3.2/euro hfm "stuck in the mud" :-(
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Re: [E36M3] Suspension questions - from Rex Tener
Top
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 11:11:29 -0800 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Suspension questions At 11:40 AM 1/13/2003 -0600, Luis Rueda wrote: >My chioces are to install the stock springs back >on (not as stiff & low) & keep the current Bilsteins >(would trimming the front bumbstops on the >Bilsteins help?) or replace everything w/Koni >SAs & stock springs. I have run over 100K combined miles on two different M3's (1995 and 1996) with Bilstein shocks and stock springs. I think it is a great setup, on the small bumps it is more compliant than stock, but it is a littler stiffer than stock on the big bumps. I have not trimmed the bump stops on either set, but probably would if I went to stiffer springs that lowered the car. -- Rex Tener rex_tener@yahoo.com
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: [E36M3] Oil Service light reset - from Jim Bassett
Top
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 11:17:51 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil Service light reset At 11:00 AM 1/12/03, Allen Hyman talked about: >How do those of you that do your own service reset the dash lights back >to all green? I use a Peake Research code reader/reset tool. If you plan on doing your own maintenance work, I'd highly recommend it. You won't make a mistake as to which pins to jumper (Hi Paul! :-)), rendering your DME an expensive paperweight, and you'll have the ability to check any fault codes. Now with 2 E36s to care for, it's been invaluable. I can diagnose & correct about 95% of the CE lights I get (there's been a few that the Peake tool just doesn't give enough description - having a good independent mechanic as a backup is a good thing :-)). My 2 cents, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 A5/JP - getting more & more ready
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Re: Help finding noise - from Neil Maller
Top
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:27:39 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Help finding noise on 1/13/03 12:30 PM, bmw <m3lawdawg@yahoo.com> wrote: > The sound seems to come when the rear wheel dips down > and then compresses quickly. Check all 4 exhaust hangers (2 rear, 2 mid). Neil 96 M3
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Insurance, again - from carl sewell
Top
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:31:09 -0500 From: "carl sewell" <jzy308@adelphia.net> Subject: Insurance, again All the recent comments re insurance prompted me to request a specimen policy from my carrier, Travelers, since the annual billing/statement does not include the “fine print.” Travelers (in Virginia) says they will provide neither liability, collision, nor comprehensive coverage for: Any vehicle located inside a facility designed for racing for the purpose of: a. Competing in; or b. Practicing or preparing for; Any prearranged or organized racing or speed contest. Obviously many driving school participants have no intention of ever racing, and I wonder how the group sees “prearranged or organized…” If you never race, are you covered? If you ever race, have you no coverage for driving schools? Any comments welcomed. Carl Sewell Charlottesville VA e36 M3/4 CCA 151298
-------------------- 11 --------------------
#11. Re: [E36M3] Suspension questions - from Luis Rueda
Top
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:32:21 -0500 From: "Luis Rueda" <Luis_Rueda@Interliant.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Suspension questions Thanks for the response Rex. Did you have the Bilstein sports on both cars? Thank you, Luis At 11:40 AM 1/13/2003 -0600, Luis Rueda wrote: >My chioces are to install the stock springs back >on (not as stiff & low) & keep the current Bilsteins >(would trimming the front bumbstops on the >Bilsteins help?) or replace everything w/Koni >SAs & stock springs. I have run over 100K combined miles on two different M3's (1995 and 1996) with Bilstein shocks and stock springs. I think it is a great setup, on the small bumps it is more compliant than stock, but it is a littler stiffer than stock on the big bumps. I have not trimmed the bump stops on either set, but probably would if I went to stiffer springs that lowered the car. -- Rex Tener rex_tener@yahoo.com