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#1. Re: mods... obd-1 vs obd-II - from Josh
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 12:43:19 -0700 From: Josh <eurosprt@xmission.com> Subject: Re: mods... obd-1 vs obd-II >How about Alex at Eurospeed? 264 at the rear wheels with fully functioning >OBD-II. (sure, he has cams.) Ok, I won't argue that OBD-II systems are >harder to tune. They aren't socketed. They do require either a flash >programmer or a socket to be added to the DME. As I understand it Eurospeed's 264hp car requires resetting of the Check Engine light every 2 days. From what I hear they are using the Peak Research R5Fcx code tool to reset the light/it's required if you are going to do their kit. I guess since Jim C did design the software in the Peak Research R5Fcx maybe they could say that the car is sort of Jim C tuned.. more like Jim C defibrillated ;-) Slapping together a whole bunch of things may work (sort of), but I don't think that is an acceptable modification path for most BMW owners. If BMW owners wanted "slapped" together, they would have bought a 1980's mustang. But seriously, there is definitely a benefit to switching an OBDII manifold to OBDI manifold, however you will lose hp and torque from 3250rpm to 4250rpm (in our tuned tests w/ a euro hfm intake filter system this loss peaked out at 15ft/lbs rwtrq and 11rwhp @ 3950rpm). Depending on how you drive your car this may or may not effect your experienced performance. If you keep the car above 4250rpm then you will be enjoying the pleasant hp and torque improvements of the OBDI manifold (in our tuned tests w/ a euro hfm intake filter assembly system this gain peaked out at 33.7 ft/lbs rwtrq and 25.8rwhp @6870). If you aren't ready to buy a full OBDII cam system, just the manifold is a reasonable compromise as far as upgrades go. We can provide all of the hardware and manifold (no software/no intake filter assembly) for around $549 (add the fuel rail cover for $37). You can run this with our standard intake system and software for a gain that is somewhat similar to the gains we saw with the euro hfm version/combination. If you are really interested in gaining all you can gain without buying the cams, you could probably get by running the OBDII cam system minus the cams for around $2195 (Cam Shark Injector, Euro HFM intake, CNC manifold adapter system, manifold, fuel rail cover, ASC delete, fan delete w/ switch, and six 24lb fuel injectors). When Jim and I worked on the cam kit we tried a lot of different things including running several different engine upgrades by themselves and together with other things e.g. manifold, cams, intake filter system, euro intake filter system, asc delete, fan temp switch/fan delete, manifold & intake filter system, cams & intake, manifold-intake filter-asc, manifold-euro intake-asc, etc...for over 100 individual dyno runs with tuning. In the process we found that these mods had their pluses and minuses and though it isn't cheap, the combination of manifold, euro intake filter system, cams, asc delete, and fan delete, was the best combination of things/best ride. Regards, Josh www.eurosporthighperformance.com (801) 886 2185
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Insurance, again - from DocWyte
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 11:51:34 -0800 (PST) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Insurance, again It could be argued that a drivers education event isn't a "speed contest", but I'd bet that the ins co would deny the claim and you'd have to take them to court to fight it. Maybe you'd win, maybe you wouldn't. Depends on how good your lawyer is and how sympathetic the judge is. -josh --- carl sewell <jzy308@adelphia.net> wrote: > Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:31:09 -0500 > From: "carl sewell" <jzy308@adelphia.net> > Subject: Insurance, again > > All the recent comments re insurance prompted me to > request a specimen > policy from my carrier, Travelers, since the annual > billing/statement does > not include the “fine print.” > > Travelers (in Virginia) says they will provide > neither liability, collision, > nor comprehensive coverage for: > Any vehicle located inside a facility designed for > racing for the purpose > of: > a. Competing in; or > b. Practicing or preparing for; > Any prearranged or organized racing or speed > contest. > > Obviously many driving school participants have no > intention of ever racing, > and I wonder how the group sees “prearranged or > organized…” If you never > race, are you covered? If you ever race, have you no > coverage for driving > schools? Any comments welcomed. > > Carl Sewell > Charlottesville VA > e36 M3/4 > CCA 151298 > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > ===== Josh Wyte Momentum Motorsports 508-833-3024 After 5 pm EST __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com
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#3. re: Help finding noise - from Michael Schaublin
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:49:58 -0500 From: "Michael Schaublin" <mike_schaublin@hotmail.com> Subject: re: Help finding noise Tony, I had the exact same noise in mine after I installed my Koni/H&R sport setup. In my case, the RSMs were not sufficiently tightend. By normal expectations, they were _really_tight_. But I still needed to add a few more clicks to both of the RSM to body nuts and the shock rod end nut. Problem solved. One other possibility is that the "bent" washer was installed facing down instead of facing up. That will cause noise at times as well. _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
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#4. Re: [E36M3] U.S. 3.2 OBD I 95 M3-Won't start!! - from NickG
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 15:15:58 -0500 From: "NickG" <nick@tech-nick.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] U.S. 3.2 OBD I 95 M3-Won't start!! Jeff, So all you did was replace the 3.0 engine with a 3.2 engine, right? You left all the DME/chip/SC alone? What did you do about the crank position sensor? Do you reuse the 3.0 piece, or the 3.2 sensor? Nick > Hello- > > Just did the following in a 95 (7/95 build date) M3 w/ 105xxx miles: > > Had a RMS SC/euro hfm/3.0 U.S. motor > Dropped in a U.S. 3.2 in lieu of the 3.0 w/ the RMS SC/euro hfm > > Car ran fine for 60k miles w/ the SC/euro hfm/3.0 > Car will turn over and dash lights on but now it won't start w/ the 3.2. > Car's battery was completely dead for about 2 months. I heard something > about the ecu having to be reset after being dead for a period of time. Is > this the same as the EWS "realignment" I've been reading about? Any other > ideas? > > Thanks > > Jeff > 95 M3/RMS SC/3.2/euro hfm "stuck in the mud" :-(
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#5. Re: Insurance, again - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 15:38:08 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Insurance, again on 1/13/03 2:50 PM, "carl sewell" <jzy308@adelphia.net> wrote: > Travelers (in Virginia) says they will provide neither liability, collision, > nor comprehensive coverage for: > Any vehicle located inside a facility designed for racing for the purpose > of: > a. Competing in; or > b. Practicing or preparing for; > Any prearranged or organized racing or speed contest. > > Obviously many driving school participants have no intention of ever racing, > and I wonder how the group sees “prearranged or organized…” If you never > race, are you covered? If you ever race, have you no coverage for driving > schools? Any comments welcomed. Since for a Driver School you are not there "for the purpose of...any...organized racing or speed contest" a Driver School would not be excluded, according to what the policy says. This is pretty much traditional insurance coverage. Some policies (e.g. USAA) have now started to exclude any form of driving activity at a racetrack. Note that we at BMW CCA schools typically go to some considerable trouble to state, both in writing (school docs) and orally (driver/instructor meetings) that these are schools, and not races or competitive or timed events. We do so both for safety and for insurance reasons. Neil 96 M3
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#6. Damaged M3s - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 15:52:10 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Damaged M3s Curious what the status of Chester's M3 is these days? Haven't heard/seen anything for a while. Also, how about some other projects or repairs/upgrades that were underway recently. Can we get some updates? Regards, Rich - can't afford to spend much money right now so I have to live vicariously through others.
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#7. Oil Service light reset - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 16:03:53 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Oil Service light reset >>I use a Peake Research code reader/reset tool. If you plan on doing your own maintenance work, I'd highly recommend it. You won't make a mistake as to which pins to jumper (Hi Paul! :-)),<< Yup Jim, youre right. Especially if youre getting senile like I am! As for diagnosing CE lighs, I have an 'autoxray' obd2 scantool for that, which also will show me key performance measures. I still find the little copper jumper perfect for resetting srvc lights. To each his own. regards, Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#8. Modifying an E36 316i - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 21:34:13 +0000 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Modifying an E36 316i A friend of mine is looking to modify his 316i back in Pakistan. Here is what he wrote: (Any help, greatly appreciated). What are his other alternatives? Thanks in advance. Ahmad As you know I have a BMW 3.16i manual 1994 (E36) with an M43 motor 1596cc (in-line 4) producing only 100bhp. I am looking to upgrade the engine to either: 1. M43 motor 1796cc (115bhp, in-line 4) which comes in 3.18i models or 2. M44 motor 1895cc (140bhp, in-line 4) which comes in either 3.18ti or 3.18iS models I want to upgrade to one of the above two motors without changing the transmission. As you know that in Pakistan there is no expert help available who I can consult with if: (a) changing to above two options I would need to change the transmission or my original transmission would be compatible with these two upgrades? (b) Also I need to know if installing one of the two options above would I need to modify the engine compartment and make room for the bigger engines or they would fit perfectly? (c) would I need to rechip or modify the ECU? Can you help me out here and find out for me from the BMW dealers or technicians or anyone you know who might know the answers. I would really appreciate it. Once you let me know then I can start looking for a good motor in Dubai and get it shipped to Pakistan for installation in my Bimmer. Man, as is right now, my bimmer is a turtle yo! I need a bit of thrust to shake my ass. _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Suspension questions - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 21:30:31 +0000 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Suspension questions Luis, Rex is right. Between Four E36 M3 and many different susp. setups I have enjoyed bilsteins with stock springs and swaybars the most. Unlike stock shocks, they last and last and last. plus they are under warranty. Ride is great. Not too stiff on the street and decent on the track. (I have ran H&R Race and Sport springs with this setup on my previous car and didnt enjoy street driving the car). Keep in mind that you will raise the car by approx 1 full inch in the front with this setup. Goodluck. Ahmad _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
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#10. Re: Damaged M3s - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 13:51:09 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Damaged M3s LOL! The car is back at my house finally. Aside from making sure your fingers don't get caught in the door mechanism (the door panels are off), it's fine. One of the first projects was to drop the oil pan to red-loctite the nut. After doing that, the car now makes a noise at around 2500rpms...sounds like a chain saw. Not sure if it's just a resonant frequency or if it's VANOS or something turning on and I assembled something incorrectly. I did take the sprocket off the oil pump to take a look, but I don't think the oil pump is timed to anything. If anyone knows, please let me know. My only thought is that I removed the sprocket twice: once I just took it off and said, "Oh, pretty..." and the second time was to clean the threads for the loctite. Putting the sprocket on (the chain was left wrapped around the sprocket at all times) the first time was easy. Putting it on the second time was not as smooth (it's as if it binded a bit). So I'm thinking that it binded a bit and since the torque on the nut isn't too high, the nut was tightened with the binding resulting in a gap :( Needless to say, I think I'll be dropping the oilpan soon. An observation last night: At approx 2000rpm in 5th gear, you're travelling at 50mph, right? I noticed that my oil pressure gauge reads 40psi! Not sure if this was normal. I also noticed that when I then stepped on the gas, the needle actually dips a little. Anyone know some engine builders that might offer some insight? Other than that, I've been waiting for the door handle surrounds. I decided to delete the keyhole from the doors. The european M3s had an infrared alarm and only had a keyhole on the driver side. You were able to order the left-hand-drive right-side surround, but were unable to order the right-hand-drive left-side. They finally came in sometime last week so it's off to the painters. I also do not have the rear valence attached to the car because the rear bumper has a flap that gets bolted down to the trunk floor. The new trunk floor doesn't have the post and the posts were not transferred over before painted/sealed/undercoated :( There have been plenty of f*ck-ups on my car and I'm weary of letting someone take a welding stick to my car (or doing anything for that matter). I've been thinking about buying rivet studs from McMaster Carr but they want you to buy a box of 100 :( There is new stuff on the stereo front. The Nak MB75 was pulled and a purty Alpine-7998 installed in its place. I also got some Monster Cable M1001XLNs ($600 retail) patch cables from a guy who worked for Monster Cable for much less (he saw my stereo writeup and complimented me...when I saw his domain name, I was like, "Hey....."). I gutted the old RCAs and ran the new ones properly since all of the trim was removed from the car and all I had to do it remove the driver seat. The RCAs now run down the left side of the car and head towards the tranny tunnel right in front of the driver seat rail. I also ran both power and ground down the right side of the car. With the old setup, I had some alternator whine. I had the amp in place hooked up temporarily and started the car, turned on the rear window defroster....no whine :) I'm happy about that. I finally mounted one stealthbox yesterday night and figured out that I screwed up big time the first time around. The way I had it wired up, the driver tweet never worked. HAHAHAHAHA! The Alpine also has 3 pairs of outputs and my amp can accept up to 8 inputs so I utilized all 6 outputs. The cool thing about the new head is it has an active crossover built into it as well as time correction. So I ditched the passive crossovers that came with the a/d/s/ fronts and turned off all crossovers on the amp. The time correction is pretty cool where you measure the distance between your ear (or I guess center of your head) and the speaker. The closest speaker drivers will have the biggest delay and in the end, the sound appears to come from the center of the dash. You can store the settings so I can have one optimal for me when I'm alone and have another when there are two people in the car....oh, alright...I'll even have one for the passenger so he/she can get a feel for what I get to enjoy when I'm driving solo. I also realized that I had my stealthboxes wired up somewhat incorrectly. The subs are 8ohms each. There's no way my a/d/s/ amp was pushing those subs at that resistance. I now have them wired in parallel (to drop the resistance down to 4ohms) and have megabass! Needless to say, it's been a very long journey. The cold weather in NYC hasn't helped at all with my efforts. There have been many times where I'm so frustrated that I just want to roll the car off a cliff. I actually pray someone t-bones me hitting either the front, the rear or the passenger side (of course, no passenger) while breaking the law and a valid insurance carrier. I gotta give mucho thanks to Wayne Miller and Jim El Nabli (though he really doesn't do much...more like yacks with the shop people and leaves me alone) for moral support and their help. Wayne was key in helping me get my car back on the day I said I would take it back...when I despaired and didn't care anymore, Wayne was there to kick me in the ass and say, "What do we have to do to wrap this up?" I've learned way too much about the whole process and I also know way too much about how are cars are assembled. I can replace a window in a 2 door in record time (I just have to figure out how to adjust it to point inwards enough).....ugh. At the beginning I asked whether I should total it or have it repaired...would it be the same? The answer? Definitely not. I regret deciding to repair the car and should have just cut my losses at the time of the accident and moved on. I have invested way too much time and effort into it and there's still a ton of work to do. If the engine lets go because of the oil pump nut, I think I'll take a sledge hammer to the car. Chester --- "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> wrote: > Curious what the status of Chester's M3 is these days? Haven't heard/seen > anything for a while. > > Also, how about some other projects or repairs/upgrades that were underway > recently. Can we get some updates? > > Regards, > > Rich - can't afford to spend much money right now so I have to live > vicariously through others. =====