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#1. Jack Points - from Jason Knight
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:01:34 -0800 (PST) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: Jack Points I am trying to determine the best place to put the jack stands after I have raised my car. After an extensive search, I'm still unsure. I have three jacks (two 1 tonners, and the one that came with the car), and four jack stands. The best I can determine is to jack the car with the jack points (hockey puck), then place the jack stands in a different location. A previous post indicates a couple of locations to use to support the vehicle. Are these what are generally used, and will I know them when I'm looking under the car? Or does anyone have alternate, acceptable support locations? The post: http://www.bmw-m.net/digest/archive%5F2002%5F11%20digest%202729%2D2787/digest2745.htm#1 And Brett's photos: www.koalamotorsport.com/misc/e36pics-02.jpg www.koalamotorsport.com/misc/e36pics-01.jpg A different post indicates that I can use the cross member for the fronts: http://www.bmw-m.net/digest/archive%5F2001%5F09%20digest%201587%2D1652/digest1636.htm#1 But Ron Stygar seems to indicate in his photos that this is not acceptable: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/tools/all_jacking_and_supporting_your_car.html Perhaps these are different locations. I do not have the metal accessory that goes in the factory jack point (jack plate), but if I purchased that could I then place the jack stands under the "hockey puck" locations with either a round bit for proper weight distribution and stability, or a piece of hard wood to perform a similar function? I apologize for bringing up a subject that appears to have come up frequently, but I figure if I'm confused others may be as well. Or I'm just missing something obvious, which happens with increasing frequency. But I certainly don't want to get something like this wrong. Also, I sincerely appreciate the efforts of the members of this list. Glad I didn't decide to buy that Boxster S. Thanks! Jason __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com
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#2. Re: Suspension - from James Clay
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 17:08:25 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: Suspension Trim the bump stops! E36 cars have a tendency to ride on the bumpstops when they are lowered even a little. I installed H&R/Bilsteins that were takeoffs on my car (bumpstops were supposedly trimmed) and it was absolutely miserable to be in. I disassembled, trimmed the untrimmed bumpstops, and put on a coilover conversion kit (with stiffer spring rates) and it feels much better and less jarring now. James -------------------------------------------------------------------- James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance Genuine and OEM BMW Parts 540.639.9648 --------------------------------------------------------------------
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Jack Points - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:17:00 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Jack Points The main reason you don't place jackstands under the hockey pucks is their plastic construction. Plastic is pretty darn smooth and slippery. If you have an adapted jack stand that will mate with the hockey puck, that that's sufficient. The alternative jack stand locations as pointed out on Brett's site looks a bit iffy. BMW engineered the cars with the minimal (or close to) gauge steel necessary for the application. I would always try to lift a car and support it at the same location as intended by the factory. Placing a jackstand at the rear trailing arm location seems odd. The trailing arm is not a load bearing structure. It's there to make sure your wheel points the right way, no? The trailing arm also works in conjunction with the lower and upper control arm, but it's the spring pad area in the back of the car that is designed to handle the weight of the car. You can always remove the hockey pucks and plate a piece of plywood (not pine as that will split) between the hockey puck area and the jackstand. The main thing is you shouldn't be able to kick out a jackstand once the car is supported. With an uneven floor, your car might be able to rock back and forth (a testament to the stiffness of the car). You wouldn't want to unload one jackstand, kick it, and then have it come crashing down. As always, use your common sense. If you have none, you shouldn't be working on your car underneath in the first place :) Chester --- Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> wrote: <much stuff about jack points snipped out> =====
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#4. Re:Chester's Woes - from shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 17:24:54 -0500 From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com Subject: Re:Chester's Woes Chester wrote: >At the beginning I asked whether I should total it or have it repaired...would >it be the same? The answer? Definitely not. I regret deciding to repair the >car and should have just cut my losses at the time of the accident and moved >on. I have invested way too much time and effort into it and there's still a >ton of work to do. If the engine lets go because of the oil pump nut, I think >I'll take a sledge hammer to the car. Shane Replies: Chester, don't EVER build a race car :-) Seriously, when it's done you'll be glad you did it. The after is always better than the during. Shane K. <-- no time to work on cars since I'm in Massachusetts '96 M3 <-- Rattles in the rear, new stereo whines (wow could I write a post on what I've been through with this), window squeaks '94 325i ITS/JP <-- don't get me started. Stack install in progress. This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited.
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re:Chester's Woes - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:45:03 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re:Chester's Woes --- shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com wrote: Accenture, eh? You guys hiring? I recently resigned from PwC/PwCC/IBM....hahaha....the 17th will be my last day > Chester, don't EVER build a race car :-) > > Seriously, when it's done you'll be glad you did it. The after is always > better than the during. If I built my race car, it would be on my terms and hopefully in my shop. I have just learned not to trust anyone. If you do, you have to make absolutely sure that that person is capable. > '96 M3 <-- Rattles in the rear, new stereo whines (wow could I write a post > on what I've been through with this), window squeaks Stereo whine? Factory setup? My slight alternator whine drove me crazy. My recent running a power and a ground from the trunk to the head seems to be working. I'll know for sure once everything is buttoned up. Chester =====
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#6. RE: where's Chester - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 16:03:36 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: where's Chester Chester wrote: "If the engine lets go because of the oil pump nut..." ....you'll have the best sounding 'couch' in NY City!!! KLBurgess 99M3/2
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#7. Any interest in an M steering wheel w/airbag? - from DocWyte
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 16:19:54 -0800 (PST) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Any interest in an M steering wheel w/airbag? Thinking about getting one of those nice euro M steering wheels with airbag. Obviously I wouldn't have much use for my current stock one. Anyone interested in buying it? -josh ===== Josh Wyte Momentum Motorsports 508-833-3024 After 5 pm EST __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com
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#8. Sparco seat mount help... - from Bruce
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 18:29:31 -0600 From: "Bruce" <gobuffs93@attbi.com> Subject: Sparco seat mount help... I have been told that the TC Kline seat mount is the one to get. Ok, that's all well and good, but I have a Sparco seat I want to mount (my butt is too big for any Recaro). Can I use the TC Kline mount and the Sparco slider? Any other suggestions? Anything that will allow me to mount the stock seat belt latch? Thanks, Bruce 95 M3 89 M3 2.5
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Damaged M3s - from ChuckBrazeau@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 19:54:49 EST From: ChuckBrazeau@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Damaged M3s Chester, I recently changed my primary timing chain tensioner (to the upgraded one) to get rid of the chain rattle i was getting at 1500 RPMs, BUT... ever since i did, i now get a sound similar to a chain saw buzz at 2500 RPMs and up (i guess to around 4000 or so). If you ever figure out what the cause of your chain noise is, please post to the list so we'll all have a better knowledge of what causes this (maybe dying VANOS? maybe normal? i dunno). Chuck Brazeau '95 BMW M3 - Violet on Black SCCA Solo2 - B Stock #95 <A HREF="http://www.brazeauracing.com/">http://www.brazeauracing.com/</A> In a message dated 1/13/03 2:06:38 PM Pacific Standard Time, chester_p_wong@yahoo.com writes: > One of the first projects was to drop the oil pan to red-loctite the nut. > After doing that, the car now makes a noise at around 2500rpms...sounds > like a > chain saw. Not sure if it's just a resonant frequency or if it's VANOS or > something turning on and I assembled something incorrectly. I did take the > sprocket off the oil pump to take a look, but I don't think the oil pump is > timed to anything. If anyone knows, please let me know. My only thought is > that I removed the sprocket twice: once I just took it off and said, "Oh, > pretty..." and the second time was to clean the threads for the loctite. > Putting the sprocket on (the chain was left wrapped around the sprocket at > all > times) the first time was easy. Putting it on the second time was not as > smooth (it's as if it binded a bit). So I'm thinking that it binded a bit > and > since the torque on the nut isn't too high, the nut was tightened with the > binding resulting in a gap :( Needless to say, I think I'll be dropping the > oilpan soon.
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Cracked rear shock tower--resolution - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 20:14:03 -0500 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cracked rear shock tower--resolution At 11:30 AM 1/13/2003 -0600, Chester Wong wrote: >On top, in the car. For the bottom, you have the RSM itself that distributes >the load. Chester, if I'm running the Ground Control RSMs with their semi-circular bar/stud thingy on top, would this serve the same purpose as the Z3 plate, namely to spread the clamping force over a broader area? http://www.ground-control.com/gcbmwcat.htm (note the gold-colored arm in the upper shock mount picture) - Chris