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#1. Re: [E36M3] Cracked rear shock tower--resolution - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 22:32:55 -0500 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cracked rear shock tower--resolution When you get your E46M3 mounts and Z3 plates, just push out the studs on the mounts and reverse tack weld them onto the Z3 plates. (NOTE: there is a correct orientation to the Z3 plates--chamfered side down) This way you'll get more load distribution and be able to remove the shock from the outside, never having to remove your trunk interior again. Jeremy Lucas 95 M3 with aforementioned mounts ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chester Wong" <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Not sure if Jay at Ground Control was really thinking, but the design of their > banana bar is really great in one aspect: if you should ever have to replace > the darn thing, you can always do so from under the car in the wheel well. >
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#2. rear subframe mounts - from Scott Smith
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 19:38:37 -0800 From: Scott Smith <scott@gelatinous.com> Subject: rear subframe mounts Some of the rear subframe mounts on my racecar broke. While in there, we noticed the bushings are still the stock rubber bushings. Are there aftermarket solid replacement pieces for these bushings or any other type of upgrade for this area? (I'm having the cage extended to the front two rear-subframe mounts, which seems to be common on a number of E36 racecars). Scott
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#3. Front, Lower Control Arm Bushings - What to replace? - from The Buch
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 19:39:33 -0800 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Front, Lower Control Arm Bushings - What to replace? I had instructed the local dealer to replace the "front, lower control arm bushings" on my '99M3. For some reason I thought this part was around $50(Cdn) per side, but I ended up with the following parts plus one hour of labour: Rubber Brg (31 12 9 069 035) 2 for $100 (Cdn) Rubber Mounting Set (31 12 9 064 875) for $147 (Cdn) Guide Supp (33 52 6 754 096) 2 for $52 (Cdn) The car feels new, but did I get what I was expecting?? Thanks, Doug
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#4. Re: mods... obd-1 vs obd-II - from Rob
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 20:42:12 -0700 From: "Rob" <speedmaster@telus.net> Subject: Re: mods... obd-1 vs obd-II Excellent post Josh! Always full of useful and accurate info! Keep the info flowing and all of our E36s will keep getting better :) Rob Josh wrote: "As I understand it Eurospeed's 264hp car requires resetting of the Check Engine light every 2 days. From what I hear they are using the Peak Research R5Fcx code tool to reset the light/it's required if you are going to do their kit. I guess since Jim C did design the software in the Peak Research R5Fcx maybe they could say that the car is sort of Jim C tuned.. more like Jim C defibrillated ;-)...."
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#5. Let's talk about front upper strut braces... - from DocWyte
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 19:52:53 -0800 (PST) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Let's talk about front upper strut braces... OK, I already have the x-brace on my M3. It was on the car when I bought it, so I can't really comment on its effects. Thinking about an upper strut brace. Obviously there are alot on the market and I think that any benefit from one will be small. However, there are the bling, bling ones like Racing Dynamics, the obscenely expensive one, BMW Motorsport, and the stupidly cheap ones, eBay special. As far as construction, they all look very similar. Circular tie down to the strut tower, some kind of unhinged bar to span the engine bay and a bolt to attach the bar to the aforementioned circular tie downs. The Motorsport bar has a threaded sleeve in the bar, the others use a perpendicular bolt arrangement. I don't see the advantage to the motorsport arrangement. Why is this so much better? Why are all the others around $200, yet a strut bar on eBay can be had for as little as $12? Yeah, yeah, quality. I've actually seen, felt, played with the $12 bar and it was stout. It's an aluminum bar, not a rocket part! No reason for it to cost bank except for marketing... I see two schools of thought here. #1 Get the motorsport bar. The factory designed it, so it'll probably give the most benefit. #2 Get the eBay $12 bar. It has the same contruction as all the other "pretty" bars that cost $200. If it doesn't really do anything, no real investment lost. What do you all think? -josh ===== Josh Wyte Momentum Motorsports 508-833-3024 After 5 pm EST __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com
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#6. Re: [E36M3] rear subframe mounts - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 20:13:07 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear subframe mounts I know Powerflex makes replacements and I'm sure poly ones are available as well. Chester --- Scott Smith <scott@gelatinous.com> wrote: > Some of the rear subframe mounts on my racecar broke. While in there, > we noticed the bushings are still the stock rubber bushings. Are > there aftermarket solid replacement pieces for these bushings or any > other type of upgrade for this area? (I'm having the cage extended to > the front two rear-subframe mounts, which seems to be common on a > number of E36 racecars). =====
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#7. Sponsorship... - from Rustysells@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 23:41:21 EST From: Rustysells@aol.com Subject: Sponsorship... I own a 1995 M3 (coupe) show car that I plan to show in various venues this summer. Do any of you have any experience getting BMW parts providers to sponsor you with parts or service? Thanks!
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#8. RE: Engine Noise (was damaged M3s) - from Steve Klein
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 22:46:02 -0600 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: RE: Engine Noise (was damaged M3s) So what about the upper tensioner and its potential for noise? I've mentioned this before and had some input, but my 11/95 M3 has developed an anoying rattle much like the buzzsaw noise directly to the left (facing the engine from the front) of the intake VANOS that I can FEEL when I blip the throttle. It's louder when I release the throttle and the engine is unloaded and unwinding. I've had the VANOS unit replaced which quieted a *bit* of the noise, but not nearly all. Chester had mentioned other parts aside from the actual unit which can be replaced, but given the sound and feel of the noise, and the pretty pictures in the Bentley, I can't help but suspect the secondary tensioner. I have replaced the lower with the newer unit. Love to hear comments, Steve, who misses how damned quiet Em used to be when puttering around. . . <snipersnack> Chester, I recently changed my primary timing chain tensioner (to the upgraded one) to get rid of the chain rattle i was getting at 1500 RPMs, BUT... ever since i did, i now get a sound similar to a chain saw buzz at 2500 RPMs and up (i guess to around 4000 or so). If you ever figure out what the cause of your chain noise is, please post to the list so we'll all have a better knowledge of what causes this (maybe dying VANOS? maybe normal? i dunno).
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Let's talk about front upper strut braces... - from ChuckBrazeau@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 23:49:28 EST From: ChuckBrazeau@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Let's talk about front upper strut braces... For a good explanation of why an un-hinged bar is better than the hinged bars, theres a nice write-up on RacePad.com here... <A HREF="http://www.racepad.com/tech/bmw/about_strut_bars/about_strut_bars.htm">http://www.racepad.com/tech/bmw/about_strut_bars/about_strut_bars.htm</A> The Strong Strut is a nice unhinged alternative to the expensive Motorsports bar... <A HREF="http://www.strongstrut.com/">http://www.strongstrut.com/</A> Chuck Brazeau '95 BMW M3 - Violet on Black SCCA Solo2 - B Stock #95 <A HREF="http://www.brazeauracing.com/">http://www.brazeauracing.com/</A> In a message dated 01/13/2003 10:00:20 PM Central Standard Time, josh_wyte@yahoo.com writes: > As far as construction, they all look very similar. > Circular tie down to the strut tower, some kind of > unhinged bar to span the engine bay and a bolt to > attach the bar to the aforementioned circular tie > downs. The Motorsport bar has a threaded sleeve in > the bar, the others use a perpendicular bolt > arrangement. > > I don't see the advantage to the motorsport > arrangement. Why is this so much better? Why are all > the others around $200, yet a strut bar on eBay can be > had for as little as $12? Yeah, yeah, quality. I've > actually seen, felt, played with the $12 bar and it > was stout. It's an aluminum bar, not a rocket part! > No reason for it to cost bank except for marketing... > > I see two schools of thought here. > #1 Get the motorsport bar. The factory designed it, > so it'll probably give the most benefit. > > #2 Get the eBay $12 bar. It has the same contruction > as all the other "pretty" bars that cost $200. If it > doesn't really do anything, no real investment lost. > > What do you all think?
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Cracked rear shock tower--resolution - from ChuckBrazeau@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 23:51:50 EST From: ChuckBrazeau@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cracked rear shock tower--resolution Like this? :-) <A HREF="http://www.brazeauracing.com/shockmounts.htm">http://www.brazeauracing.com/shockmounts.htm</A> Chuck Brazeau '95 BMW M3 - Violet on Black SCCA Solo2 - B Stock #95 <A HREF="http://www.brazeauracing.com/">http://www.brazeauracing.com/</A> In a message dated 01/13/2003 9:39:47 PM Central Standard Time, jlucas@columbus.rr.com writes: > When you get your E46M3 mounts and Z3 plates, just push out the studs on > the mounts and reverse tack weld them onto the Z3 plates. (NOTE: there > is a correct orientation to the Z3 plates--chamfered side down) This > way you'll get more load distribution and be able to remove the shock > from the outside, never having to remove your trunk interior again. > > Jeremy Lucas > 95 M3 with aforementioned mounts