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#1. Re: [E36M3] Damaged M3s - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 21:28:06 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Damaged M3s Very, very interesting... I'm not sure about the intricacies of VANOS and how it's all timed, but maybe when all the oil was drained from the block and me torquing down on the nut caused the VANOS timing to get changed? I guess I could try to disable VANOS and see if the noise persists. I wonder if it's as simple as disconnecting the solenoid connector. Sure, I might get a check engine light, but I can reset that. If the noise goes away, then I guess I can be sure that my work on the bottom wasn't performed incorrectly.. If it's the VANOS, I guess I can check proper operation as I have the tools to do so.... Chester --- ChuckBrazeau@aol.com wrote: > I recently changed my primary timing chain tensioner (to the upgraded one) to > > get rid of the chain rattle i was getting at 1500 RPMs, BUT... ever since i > did, i now get a sound similar to a chain saw buzz at 2500 RPMs and up (i > guess to around 4000 or so). If you ever figure out what the cause of your > chain noise is, please post to the list so we'll all have a better knowledge > of what causes this (maybe dying VANOS? maybe normal? i dunno). =====
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Cracked rear shock tower--resolution - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 06:34:25 -0500 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cracked rear shock tower--resolution Exactly what I did. :) Jeremy Lucas 95 M3 ----- Original Message ----- From: <ChuckBrazeau@aol.com> http://www.brazeauracing.com/shockmounts.htm
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#3. Re: [E36M3] UUC swaybarbarian installation - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 06:17:40 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] UUC swaybarbarian installation My experience is with RD sways, but the adjustment should be the same. You must check the clearance with the wheels at full droop as well as with the car's full weight on the suspension. The clearance between the end of the sway bar and the control arm and the halfshaft is very tight. As you raise and lower the car, you'll see what I mean. Jay At 09:24 PM 1/13/03 -0600, you wrote: >Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 21:15:19 -0600 >From: "Bill Kim" <billkim@texas.net> >Subject: UUC swaybarbarian installation > >Hi, > >This is my first post to the list - please be kind. :-) > >I recently installed the UUC swaybarbarians and had some questions. Where >did you set the end links at in the rear? The instructions said to show >about 8 threads, but at that length, the end link was almost resting on the >control arm. I set it to almost full short position. > >Also, the car seems to ride much worse than before - especially in the rear. >Could pre-load on the bar cause this? > >I have a 95 w/ GC coilovers. > >TIA > >Bill Kim > > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > >
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Jack Points - from Dave Kelley
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Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 09:23:19 -0500 From: "Dave Kelley" <d.kelley@usa.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Jack Points I'll tell you where "not" to put the jack stands! I was just doing some work on my car and jacked it up from the front undercarriage with a floor jack as I usually do. For some reason, I decided to put the jack stands under what I thought was the frame just behind the front wheel wells. Bad Idea. This is apparently not a structural point. When I lowered the car, it "crumpled" the fender behind the wheel well and popped off the front of the sideskirts. Really pissed me off! As a follow-up.... is there any trick to getting the sideskirt off. It looks like there are some rivets on the bottom that have to be cut off to replace? I assume they are one time use and have to be replaced with new ones. Hopefully, I can bend everything back in place and get the sideskirt reattached. Dave Kelley 98 M3/4 > Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:01:34 -0800 (PST) > From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> > Subject: Jack Points > > I am trying to determine the best place to put the > jack stands after I have raised my car. After an > extensive search, I'm still unsure. I have three > jacks (two 1 tonners, and the one that came with the > car), and four jack stands. The best I can determine > is to jack the car with the jack points (hockey puck), > then place the jack stands in a different location. A > previous post indicates a couple of locations to use > to support the vehicle. Are these what are generally > used, and will I know them when I'm looking under the > car? Or does anyone have alternate, acceptable > support locations? > > The post: > http://www.bmw-m.net/digest/archive%5F2002%5F11%20digest%202 > 729%2D2787/digest2745.htm#1 > > And Brett's photos: > > www.koalamotorsport.com/misc/e36pics-02.jpg > www.koalamotorsport.com/misc/e36pics-01.jpg > > A different post indicates that I can use the cross > member for the fronts: > > http://www.bmw-m.net/digest/archive%5F2001%5F09%20digest%201 > 587%2D1652/digest1636.htm#1 > > But Ron Stygar seems to indicate in his photos that > this is not acceptable: > > http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/tools/all_jacking_and_suppo > rting_your_car.html > > Perhaps these are different locations. > > I do not have the metal accessory that goes in the > factory jack point (jack plate), but if I purchased > that could I then place the jack stands under the > "hockey puck" locations with either a round bit for > proper weight distribution and stability, or a piece > of hard wood to perform a similar function? > > I apologize for bringing up a subject that appears to > have come up frequently, but I figure if I'm confused > others may be as well. Or I'm just missing something > obvious, which happens with increasing frequency. But > I certainly don't want to get something like this > wrong. Also, I sincerely appreciate the efforts of > the members of this list. Glad I didn't decide to buy > that Boxster S. > > Thanks! > Jason > > __________________________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. > http://mailplus.yahoo.com > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue > Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#5. Cam upgrade on a 7/95 M3 - from Charles R
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Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 09:20:56 -0500 From: "Charles R" <Chasliv@directvinternet.com> Subject: Cam upgrade on a 7/95 M3 Hi Guys, I would like to poll the guys that have upgraded their cams to the Schrick ones. Is the motor just as smooth as stock cams? at idle and at WOT. Any problems or issues that I should know about besides upgrading the valve retainers. Is running dual springs on the valve train necessary? Thanks, Chas
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#6. Cam upgrade on 2000 M Roadster - from George R Carr Jr
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Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 08:04:18 -0700 From: George R Carr Jr <georgercarrjr@earthlink.net> Subject: Cam upgrade on 2000 M Roadster I'm interested in talking with those who have gone through the Conforti cam et al upgrade, particularly one of the 240HP M Roadsters (last model year 2000) although e36M3 experience is relevant. My Roadster now has over 10000 miles on it. Time to do it or not. TIA. -- =========================== georgercarrjr@earthlink.net
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#7. New AA Exhaust - from Grant.Fairweather@abbott.com
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Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 09:27:52 -0600 From: Grant.Fairweather@abbott.com Subject: New AA Exhaust Mo: I'll check AA's site, but is there any chance that you have a sound bite of the new exhaust or know of a site that does? Regards, Grant 98M3/4 >Dear All, >Wayne helped me put my new AA Gen III exhaust on my e36 M3/4 on Sat.. WOW, >what a difference! This is the way the car should have come from the >factory. The factory exhaust is sooooooooooooooooooooo quiet compared to >this one. The exhaust has a very nice sound to it, not very loud, but VERY >nice.. It was also significantly lighter than the stock exhaust. >Anyways, >thanks for the help Wayne!
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#8. E46 M3 RSM P/N - from Junaidi Irwan
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Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 07:31:34 -0800 (PST) From: Junaidi Irwan <cuwei@yahoo.com> Subject: E46 M3 RSM P/N Can you provide me the part number for E46 M3 RSM? Are those the same as the P/N that I got from UUC site (#33 52 6 754 096)? Thanks! Jay > > -------------------- 1 -------------------- > > Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 22:32:55 -0500 > > From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cracked rear shock > > tower--resolution > > > > When you get your E46M3 mounts and Z3 plates, just > > push out the studs on > > the mounts and reverse tack weld them onto the Z3 > > plates. (NOTE: there > > is a correct orientation to the Z3 > plates--chamfered > > side down) This > > way you'll get more load distribution and be able > to > > remove the shock > > from the outside, never having to remove your > trunk > > interior again. > > > > Jeremy Lucas > > 95 M3 with aforementioned mounts __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com
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#9. Front, Lower Control Arm Bushings - What to replace? - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 11:33:45 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Front, Lower Control Arm Bushings - What to replace? > I had instructed the local dealer to replace the "front, lower control > arm bushings" on my '99M3. For some reason I thought this part was > around $50(Cdn) per side, but I ended up with the following parts plus > one hour of labour: > Rubber Brg (31 12 9 069 035) 2 for $100 (Cdn) > Rubber Mounting Set (31 12 9 064 875) for $147 (Cdn) > Guide Supp (33 52 6 754 096) 2 for $52 (Cdn) > The car feels new, but did I get what I was expecting?? Well, unless they gave you a spare set of the control arm bushings, you may have been ripped off. The first two part numbers are the same thing. They are the control arm bushings and they come in a set (2, one for each side of the car). The first part number is the current part number. The second part number is the old part number for the same thing as the first (superceded by that first part number). Also, the last part number is the E46 M3/convertible rear shock mounts. I assume you requested that those be replaced as well (although you didn't mention it)? Later, Rich
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#10. Chester's Woes - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 11:34:28 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Chester's Woes Shane K. wrote>> >> '96 M3 <-- Rattles in the rear, new stereo whines (wow could I write a post >> on what I've been through with this), window squeaks >> '94 325i ITS/JP <-- don't get me started. Stack install in progress. Yeah, I have certain parts of your race car in my garage right now. Do you want those back or was this just a weight saving effort? :-) What is the story on the radio? Chester wrote > > Accenture, eh? You guys hiring? I recently resigned from > PwC/PwCC/IBM....hahaha....the 17th will be my last day Hmm... my old employer. I wonder what is going on in the accounting and consulting industry lately. I need to tap some of my old sources to see how things are shaking out lately. Later, Rich