-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re: [E36M3] Aiming Ellipsoids? - from Jim Bassett
Top
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 11:23:57 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Aiming Ellipsoids? At 11:01 AM 1/15/03, DocWyte wrote: >Maybe I'm dense or something, but I read the aiming >description on the link on your site and my response >is "Wha?? Uh...um..." No comment :-) >What is that guy trying to describe? I can't envision >what he's talking about at all... Basically, setting up a target 10 meters (33 feet) away from the front of the car, with "X's" 10cm lower that the actual height of the beam. Ex: If your lights are 2 feet (60 cm) off the ground (measured at the car), the "X's" will be 50cm off the ground at the target. >All I need to know is what knobs control vertical and >horizontal movement of the headlites. There are two controls (hex inserts). IIRC, the middle one controls height, the outboard one controls horizontal. It is possible that you can't adjust horizontal because the adjuster is broken (one of mine is). How far away from the wall was the car when you tried to adjust? Too close, and you may not see any movement (small angle of movement, too close distance - it's a geometry thing :-)) >Targetting and >blocking beam patterns I'm more than happy to leave to >the techno nerds. (With apologies to all the techno >nerds, that's just not my bag, baby.) Just basic, high-school geometry, nothing "techno" about it. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Re: [E36M3] Aiming Ellipsoids? - from DocWyte
Top
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 11:53:07 -0800 (PST) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Aiming Ellipsoids? I would hope that they're not broken, the lights are new. I was approximately 25 feet from the wall. The vertical adjustment knob is fairly sensitive, but I was cranking away on the outboard knob with no perceived movement on the light pattern. -josh --- Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> wrote: > Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 11:23:57 -0800 > From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Aiming Ellipsoids? > > At 11:01 AM 1/15/03, DocWyte wrote: > >Maybe I'm dense or something, but I read the aiming > >description on the link on your site and my > response > >is "Wha?? Uh...um..." > > No comment :-) > > >What is that guy trying to describe? I can't > envision > >what he's talking about at all... > > Basically, setting up a target 10 meters (33 feet) > away from the front of > the car, with "X's" 10cm lower that the actual > height of the beam. > > Ex: If your lights are 2 feet (60 cm) off the ground > (measured at the car), > the "X's" will be 50cm off the ground at the target. > > >All I need to know is what knobs control vertical > and > >horizontal movement of the headlites. > > There are two controls (hex inserts). IIRC, the > middle one controls height, > the outboard one controls horizontal. > > It is possible that you can't adjust horizontal > because the adjuster is > broken (one of mine is). How far away from the wall > was the car when you > tried to adjust? Too close, and you may not see any > movement (small angle > of movement, too close distance - it's a geometry > thing :-)) > > >Targetting and > >blocking beam patterns I'm more than happy to leave > to > >the techno nerds. (With apologies to all the > techno > >nerds, that's just not my bag, baby.) > > Just basic, high-school geometry, nothing "techno" > about it. > > Hope that helps, > Jim Bassett > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > ===== Josh Wyte Momentum Motorsports 508-833-3024 After 5 pm EST __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Re: [E36M3] Aiming Ellipsoids? - from Jim Bassett
Top
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 12:11:53 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Aiming Ellipsoids? At 11:53 AM 1/15/03, DocWyte wrote: >I would hope that they're not broken, the lights are >new. Mine's been broken since new.... >I was approximately 25 feet from the wall. The >vertical adjustment knob is fairly sensitive, but I >was cranking away on the outboard knob with no >perceived movement on the light pattern. I'm guessing it's broken - you tried moving it in both directions, right? Something else to check (long-shot): The adjuster is a horizontal cam-gear that runs a vertical cam-gear, IIRC. Make sure they are aligned (i.e. that the horizontal one moves the vertical one). And maybe try turning the vertical one directly? Jim
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Re: [E36M3] Aiming Ellipsoids? - from Ron Buchalski
Top
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 15:19:52 -0500 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Aiming Ellipsoids? Are you looking for instructions to give to a shop, so they can align your headlights? If so, you're probably out of luck, unless the shop has alignment equipment designed for Euro lights. All US lights have three projecting alignment 'points' molded into the lens of the light. The shop has an alignment tool that uses these alignment points to insure that it's properly aligned with the light. Since the Euro headlights don't have the alignment points, using this method is useless. The method that Jim Bassett describes is correct, but it may be a little hard to follow. Here's another one: http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/aim/aim.html The key points: 1) The car is on level ground, gas tank filled 2) The car is perpendicular to the wall 3) The car is 30 feet from the wall 4) Measure the vertical height of your headlights, and draw a line on the wall, at this same height 5) Cover one light, align the other 6) Adjust the vertical headlight beam so that the line is 3" below the line drawn in Step 4. If your shop is equipped with Euro headlight alignment equipment, they'll know what to do. Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata >Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 11:01:03 -0800 (PST) >From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Aiming Ellipsoids? > >Jim, > >Maybe I'm dense or something, but I read the aiming >description on the link on your site and my response >is "Wha?? Uh...um..." > >What is that guy trying to describe? I can't envision >what he's talking about at all... > >All I need to know is what knobs control vertical and >horizontal movement of the headlites. Targetting and >blocking beam patterns I'm more than happy to leave to >the techno nerds. (With apologies to all the techno >nerds, that's just not my bag, baby.) > >-josh _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. The inside view of Vanos - from Paul Elliott
Top
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 15:29:01 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: The inside view of Vanos Ben, Thanks for the Vanos shots. In the text, it says, '...Over time, the helical piston and helical internal gear of the variable cam sprocket begin to wear, creating more and more noise. Some may sound like marbles, loose nuts, rattling, or even a "gargling" sound. This is normal for vanos to sound like this, but again, as it gets worse, it gets louder'. So, it begs the question, since the older it gets, the more noise it makes, does there come a point when it needs replacement? And, if so, how much noise is too much noise? I suspect it would be very difficult, from the noise alone, to know when it needs replacement. Except, perhaps, for someone who has heard enough Vanos representations, so as to be able to identify the noisy ones with problems. For those not so blessed, is there any way other than noise, to know if your Vanos needs replacement? Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. RE: [E36M3] Aiming Ellipsoids? - from Robert Exconde
Top
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 14:37:23 -0600 From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Aiming Ellipsoids? I believe that the proper way to aim the ellipsoids is park your bumper on the wall, mark the spot of the top of the beam, back up 25ft and the drop off from that point should be two inches I've used this setup and no one has flashed me re
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Re: Z3 Reinforcement Plates & GC RSMs - from Neil Maller
Top
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 15:51:16 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Z3 Reinforcement Plates & GC RSMs on 1/15/03 11:42 AM, "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> wrote: > Why would anyone want both? There would be no benefit to having both. The benefit is convenience: there's no need to extract the bolts from the GC horseshoe and have them tack welded to the Z3 plates. The bolts are easily long enough. Simply stack and assemble, no muss no fuss. Neil 96 M3
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: Bent Front rim--- NJ potholes! - from Neil Maller
Top
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 15:53:41 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Bent Front rim--- NJ potholes! on 1/15/03 11:42 AM, Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: > Do yourself a favor and get OE 8.5" forged wheels all around ;) I have the OE forged wheels and would love to replace my front 7.5s with 8.5s. But they're absurdly expensive new, and hard to come by used. A used staggered set sold for $950 on eBay a few weeks ago. Neil 96 M3
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Electric Radiator Fan - from Neil Maller
Top
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 16:06:52 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Electric Radiator Fan I'm playing around with the thought of going to an electric radiator fan when I install the PWR aluminum radiator that's on order. (Obviously this would be much easier when the radiator is out anyway.) I saw some info (less photos) at: http://home.earthlink.net/~rbirkz/E36M3_Electric_Fan_Install.htm It looks as if the whole thing can be done for under $200 (16" SPAL puller fan at $150 plus thermal switch, maybe a relay, and some wiring odds and ends). Benefits would include some hp gain at higher rpm, and improved cooling at idle or very low rpm. Downsides seem only to be cost and effort. I don't want to go fanless, since this car is a daily driver and occasionally gets stuck in traffic. Anyone got any comments, suggestions, success/failure stories? Neil 96 M3
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. FS: 1995 M3 Turbo (Price drop) - from Matt Henson
Top
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 13:18:49 -0800 (PST) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: 1995 M3 Turbo (Price drop) Hi, My 1995 M3 Turbo is still for sale. The price is dropping to $18,900. Also, there is a $500 finder's fee if you refer it to someone who buys is, or a $500 discount if a list member buys it. Some basic specs: 1995 M3 with upgraded AA Turbo system 85K miles ~350 reliable HP (engine has never required repair) Other upgrades Very Good condition. E-mail for pics or more information. Thanks, Matt __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com