-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. RE: [E36M3] Aiming Ellipsoids? - from twisty M3
Top
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 15:14:01 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Aiming Ellipsoids? Well, I like this method the best so far... It's the easiest! ;) Should there be a set measurement to start with, though (i.e. height from the ground), or is it just the drop off measurement of 2" that matters? Jonathan L. >From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> >Reply-To: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> >To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] Aiming Ellipsoids? >Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 14:42:42 -0600 > >Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 14:37:23 -0600 >From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] Aiming Ellipsoids? > >I believe that the proper way to aim the ellipsoids is park your bumper on >the wall, mark the spot of the top of the beam, back up 25ft and the drop >off from that point should be two inches >I've used this setup and no one has flashed me > >re > _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Differential and Transmission Fluid - from Mark Siismets
Top
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 17:20:09 -0800 (PST) From: Mark Siismets <msiismets@yahoo.com> Subject: Differential and Transmission Fluid I have a '95 M3 that sees frequent track use, and I will soon be changing the differential and transmission fluids. I seem to recall that BMW's fluid recommendations for the '95 model were a little different than those for later models, but I can't confirm this. In the past, my local shop has used BMW fluid for the diff and Redline MTL for the tranny with good results. We once tried Redline 75W90 in the diff, but it produced too much noice and was replaced with the BMW fluid. Going forward, I'd like to change these fluids myself, so I'm wondering what other '95 M3 owners have been using successfully in their cars. The BMW diff fluid is very expensive, and I believe it's only available in large quantities, so I need to find an alternative if I want to do this work myself. Thanks, Mark '95 M3 - Houston __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. GTR/LTW oilpan/pump - from James Clay
Top
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 21:22:48 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: GTR/LTW oilpan/pump I have one of these for sale from a Lightweight and will have another in a couple of weeks from a GTR engine coming from Europe. Will sell them for $850+ return of stock pan/pickup to list members. Listed on the website at http://www.nexternal.com/bimmerworl/?Target=products.asp&RowID=153 Enter coupon "E36M3LIST" for the reduced price. Only two available, first 2 to buy them get them, 2nd set will ship when we get it in the country. James -------------------------------------------------------------------- James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance Genuine and OEM BMW Parts 540.639.9648 --------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Hey Rich Nguyen - from Mark Kelly
Top
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 21:50:57 -0500 From: Mark Kelly <mark@garden.net> Subject: Hey Rich Nguyen Group, sorry for the private traffic... Rich, I can't return your e-mail, your return address appears to be busted. mark
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. RE: [E36M3] Aiming Ellipsoids? - from Robert Exconde
Top
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 00:03:47 -0600 From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Aiming Ellipsoids? I believe it is the angle from where the light starts from that matter, I think that it is the measuer of 2" that matters the most because it is the angle of the light from the glass with respect to the other drivers that matters most. I think that the only way that you could be offensive is if you drove a Jeep with 5' wheels with ellipsoids re-99E36M3 -----Original Message----- From: twisty M3 [mailto:twistym3@hotmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2003 5:14 PM To: 99e36m3@exconde.com; e36m3@bmw-m.net Subject: RE: [E36M3] Aiming Ellipsoids? Well, I like this method the best so far... It's the easiest! ;) Should there be a set measurement to start with, though (i.e. height from the ground), or is it just the drop off measurement of 2" that matters? Jonathan L. >From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> >Reply-To: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> >To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] Aiming Ellipsoids? >Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 14:42:42 -0600 > >Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 14:37:23 -0600 >From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] Aiming Ellipsoids? > >I believe that the proper way to aim the ellipsoids is park your bumper on >the wall, mark the spot of the top of the beam, back up 25ft and the drop >off from that point should be two inches >I've used this setup and no one has flashed me > >re > _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. bleeding brakes ASC+T??? 98 M3/4 Rotor/pad/ ss lines installed - from Paul Smith
Top
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 08:59:06 -0500 From: Paul Smith <pauls@ontario.com> Subject: bleeding brakes ASC+T??? 98 M3/4 Rotor/pad/ ss lines installed I went to the archives and found a few tips/processes but still have a question. I have the ASC+T on my M3. I pressure bled the lines after installing all new parts. Went around and checked again until a constant flow. In my manual is says if you have the traction control, take it to a dealer. What will they do that I did not do? Seem to work fine! Thanks in advance, Paul Smith 98 M3/4 with Zimmerman cross drilled and NO RUST (yet - about 8 days of driving in snow conditions)
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. VANOS and upper end noise - from Steve Klein
Top
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 10:18:24 -0600 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: VANOS and upper end noise Speaking of the VANOS issue and noise on the top end, can someone recommend an online source for the Upper (secondary) chain tensioner? I've had the VANOS replaced, but not the Cam Sprocket and I'd be interested in replacing that, too if I'm going in. Chester: Are you still compiling a tool set to facilitate VANOS and cam work? Hell, I might just convince myself that some Schricks need a home, too. But since the tensioner can be accessed without disturbing the chains or sprockets (am I correct in that?) just a source for the tensioner for now would be great. Thanks, Steve
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: [E36M3] VANOS and upper end noise - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 08:45:44 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] VANOS and upper end noise I'm not 100% sure, but if, in order to remove the secondary chain tensioner, you have to remove the VANOS, then you'd have a need for the tools. I gotz the tools and might rip open my valve cover this weekend. Chester --- Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> wrote: > Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 10:18:24 -0600 > From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> > Subject: VANOS and upper end noise > > Speaking of the VANOS issue and noise on the top end, can someone > recommend an online source for the Upper (secondary) chain tensioner? > I've had the VANOS replaced, but not the Cam Sprocket and I'd be > interested in replacing that, too if I'm going in. > > Chester: Are you still compiling a tool set to facilitate VANOS and cam > work? Hell, I might just convince myself that some Schricks need a home, > too. > > But since the tensioner can be accessed without disturbing the chains or > sprockets (am I correct in that?) just a source for the tensioner for > now would be great. =====
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Re: [E36M3] VANOS and upper end noise - from Steve Klein
Top
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 10:59:11 -0600 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] VANOS and upper end noise I'd love to hear what you find out. If I can get to the tensioner w/o disturbing the VANOS, then I'll plan on proceding with that soon. Otherwise, I'll get the cam sprocket, wait until I've got my bike back together (backup transport) and rent the tools/write up from you this spring. Once I'm in that far to replace the sprocket, how much further in is it to add the Schricks? And what else could be done in there while I'm at it? It's an 11/95 build with 111K mi., so does it have the hardened spring retainers? Thanks again, Steve On Thursday, January 16, 2003, at 10:45 AM, Chester Wong wrote: > I'm not 100% sure, but if, in order to remove the secondary chain > tensioner, > you have to remove the VANOS, then you'd have a need for the tools. I > gotz the > tools and might rip open my valve cover this weekend. > > Chester
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Re: [E36M3] VANOS and upper end noise - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 09:06:31 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] VANOS and upper end noise To replace the VANOS cam gear, you really need to remove the cam and mount it in a vise. That's the intake cam so all that would remain is removing the exhaust cam. The only problem is installing the hot cam will be a bit more difficult because the lobes are bigger and fatter. You'd need another special tool that I wasn't planning on including in the kit, but maybe will, in order to easily install a hot cam. BTW, not sure about the hardened retainers. Chester --- Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> wrote: > Once I'm in that far to replace the sprocket, how much further in > is it to add the Schricks? And what else could be done in there while > I'm at it? It's an 11/95 build with 111K mi., so does it have the > hardened spring retainers? =====
-------------------- 11 --------------------
#11. Re: [E36M3] VANOS and upper end noise - from Steve Klein
Top
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 11:05:56 -0600 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] VANOS and upper end noise That's what I'm trying to figure out. I replaced the primary tensioner this summer, and had the VANOS (but not the cam sprocket) replaced shortly thereafter, but the noise hasn't diminished much at all. At first I would have said it sounds like the can of marbles, but it's a very rythmic sound which I interpret to be more chain like. I.e. all the clicks and klacks are evenly spaced (but rapid) with no variance in their timing. Also, if I put my hand on the valve cover to the left of the VANOS while I blip the throttle, I can feel vibration associated with the noise. As others have said, I doubt the chain is hittiing the cover, but if it is slapping around with little dampening from the tensioner, that could explain the vibes. On Thursday, January 16, 2003, at 10:56 AM, alex.fadeev@verizon.com wrote: > How does the secondary tensioner noise sound with a known good primary > tensioner? > Where does the secondary tensioner go? Do you need special tools to get > to > it?