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#1. Rear Suspension-Complete rebuild?? - from twisty M3
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Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 09:18:51 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Rear Suspension-Complete rebuild?? Okay, so I got my front control arms/bushings replaced a few months ago, and I'm noticing more and more that the rear of my car sometimes wants to keep going one way when I'm trying to go the other (sometimes during hard acceleration and/or over rough pavement, etc.). With 94k+ miles on my car, I'm certain that the RTABs need to be replaced and I was going to do so while getting the front done, but my mechanic suggested waiting until 100k and then completely redoing all the bushings in the rear suspension. He stated that it is good to replace the RTABs, but that most people overlook all the other bushings. Sounded like a fine idea at the time, but now that I think about the HUGE expense, I'm wondering if that's really necessary. What do y'all think. All of it in one shot, or RTABs now and just wait to see if I end up having to pay double labor later to replace anything else? Also, like the front control arms, is it a good idea to replace any of the other rear suspsension components due to fatigue? For what it's worth, the rear shocks and RSMs are relatively new, but I'll probably replace RSMs again anyway... just because. Thanks, Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
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#2. wheel arch liners - from fourfa@fourfa.com
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Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 12:46:45 -0500 From: "fourfa@fourfa.com" <fourfa@fourfa.com> Subject: wheel arch liners I need new plastic wheel arch liners. Are these prohibitively expensive to ship, should I order from the local CCA-discount dealer (some 10% off) instead? Thanks, andy r. 98 m3/2 -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .
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#3. Re: [E36M3] VANOS and upper end noise - from Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering
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Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 14:23:13 -0500 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] VANOS and upper end noise Do you mean the tensioner UNDER the Vanos? If that's the one, you don't have to remove the Vanos to replace that. You don't have to take out the cam to replace the splined cam sprocket that interfaces with the vanos. To replace the tensioner (between the exhaust and intake cam gears), that's definitely easier when doing the vanos cam sprocket. It will help to have the spanner to turn the gear (to install the vanos properly). Cam locks are not required when doing the vanos (obviously, only when replacing the cams, to ensure proper installation). Chester, you don't have to remove the intake cam (nor mount it in a vise). Also, you don't need the tool to compress the cams with agressive lobes...you can do it slowly, a little at a time. Otherwise, you run the risk of snaping the camshaft. When doing Schrick cams, you do have to remove the helical splined adapter from the stock intake cam and transfer it to the new schrick intake cam. THAT'S when you need the vise (and a big-ass breaker bar!) Regards, Ben Liaw Rogue Engineering . 201.444.8150 . http://www.rogueengineering.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Klein" <klein@robinsonad.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003 11:22 AM Subject: [E36M3] VANOS and upper end noise > Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 10:18:24 -0600 > From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> > Subject: VANOS and upper end noise > > Speaking of the VANOS issue and noise on the top end, can someone > recommend an online source for the Upper (secondary) chain tensioner? > I've had the VANOS replaced, but not the Cam Sprocket and I'd be > interested in replacing that, too if I'm going in. > > Chester: Are you still compiling a tool set to facilitate VANOS and cam > work? Hell, I might just convince myself that some Schricks need a home, > too. > > But since the tensioner can be accessed without disturbing the chains or > sprockets (am I correct in that?) just a source for the tensioner for > now would be great. > > Thanks, > Steve > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#4. Re: [E36M3] VANOS and upper end noise - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 11:44:36 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] VANOS and upper end noise --- Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering <ben@rogueengineering.com> wrote: > Chester, you don't have to remove the intake cam (nor mount it in a vise). > Also, you don't need the tool to compress the cams with agressive > lobes...you can do it slowly, a little at a time. Otherwise, you run the > risk of snaping the camshaft. > > When doing Schrick cams, you do have to remove the helical splined adapter > from the stock intake cam and transfer it to the new schrick intake cam. > THAT'S when you need the vise (and a big-ass breaker bar!) I was referring to that helical splined adapter. If you want to replace that, you would need to remove the cam to get at it. That helical splined adapter incurs wear, no? My point was that if you're going in and thinking about revamping the VANOS, you might as well replace all moving parts associated with VANOS. About the aggressive lobes, yes, you don't need the special tool, but it's certainly a bit more difficult to get the caps back on (well the nuts that secure the caps) with the bigger lobes. Since one cylinder is at TDC, any turning of the cam needs to be done carefully. That's at least how I watched Ray do it to Wayne's car. I was just thinking in terms of providing a kit and making it idiot proof....well, less likely to screw something up than to have someone blame me for providing an incomplete kit, etc. If I was installing aggressive cams into my car, I wouldn't need the cam lock down tool. Chester =====
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#5. Re: [E36M3] VANOS and upper end noise - from Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering
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Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 15:11:30 -0500 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] VANOS and upper end noise > I was referring to that helical splined adapter. If you want to replace that, > you would need to remove the cam to get at it. That helical splined adapter > incurs wear, no? according to ray adam, under warranty (and under typical service), a vanos repair would ONLY include the vanos unit and associated intake cam sprocket. the helical adapter on the cam is made from a much different steel and does NOT wear the same rate as the cam sprocket and vanos. > My point was that if you're going in and thinking about > revamping the VANOS, you might as well replace all moving parts associated with > VANOS. Might as well just replace the entire engine, then. There is a BMW number for the entire short engine. > About the aggressive lobes, yes, you don't need the special tool, but > it's certainly a bit more difficult to get the caps back on (well the nuts that > secure the caps) with the bigger lobes. Since one cylinder is at TDC, any > turning of the cam needs to be done carefully. That's at least how I watched > Ray do it to Wayne's car. I was just thinking in terms of providing a kit and > making it idiot proof....well, less likely to screw something up than to have > someone blame me for providing an incomplete kit, etc. If I was installing > aggressive cams into my car, I wouldn't need the cam lock down tool. BMP sells a cam tool to push it down (with agressive or cams). the BMW tool doesn't work on the exhaust side, since the E36 shock tower gets in the way. I took about 60 digital pics, of a recent schrick cam install (on a 3.0L M3) and was thinking about putting them on our website...until I realized just how many pictures there were! Cheaper just to have someone do it then chance a botched install. Regards, Ben Liaw Rogue Engineering . 201.444.8150 . http://www.rogueengineering.com
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#6. Re: [E36M3] VANOS and upper end noise - from Scott Yu
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Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 12:35:40 -0800 (PST) From: Scott Yu <segascott@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] VANOS and upper end noise Ooh, those pictures would be _so_ cool to see. Any chance you could make those a downloadable .zip file or something similar? scott yu --- Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering <ben@rogueengineering.com> wrote: > > I took about 60 digital pics, of a recent schrick > cam install (on a 3.0L M3) > and was thinking about putting them on our > website...until I realized just > how many pictures there were! > > > Regards, > Ben Liaw > Rogue Engineering . 201.444.8150 . __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com
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#7. Re: [E36M3] wheel arch liners - from twisty M3
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Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 12:41:58 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] wheel arch liners Are you sure you need to actually replace them? Mine came loose from one side, but it was only one bolt that it had gotten torn off from. Rather than spending a ridiculous amount of money on a big plastic part, a friend and I drilled a couple of holes through the fender via the engine bay and attached a couple of bolts and washers. This not only repaired the problem, but allowed us to reinforce both sides. Total job was $7 (for drill bit and nuts, bolts and washers) and took less then an hour (inlcuding jacking, wheel removal and eating a sandwich). ;) Jonathan L. >From: "fourfa@fourfa.com" <fourfa@fourfa.com> >Reply-To: "fourfa@fourfa.com" <fourfa@fourfa.com> >To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> >Subject: [E36M3] wheel arch liners >Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 11:52:40 -0600 > >Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 12:46:45 -0500 >From: "fourfa@fourfa.com" <fourfa@fourfa.com> >Subject: wheel arch liners > >I need new plastic wheel arch liners. Are these prohibitively expensive >to ship, should I order from the local CCA-discount dealer (some 10% >off) instead? Thanks, > >andy r. >98 m3/2 > _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
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#8. Re: [E36M3] VANOS and upper end noise - from Steve Klein
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Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 14:56:39 -0600 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] VANOS and upper end noise Under as in right behind, on the top end of the engine, right between the cams. Although it's easier with VANOS removed, can one replace the secondary tensioner without removing it? On Thursday, January 16, 2003, at 01:23 PM, Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering wrote: > Do you mean the tensioner UNDER the Vanos? If that's the one, you don't > have to remove the Vanos to replace that. > > You don't have to take out the cam to replace the splined cam sprocket > that > interfaces with the vanos. > > To replace the tensioner (between the exhaust and intake cam gears), > that's > definitely easier when doing the vanos cam sprocket. It will help to > have > the spanner to turn the gear (to install the vanos properly). Cam > locks are > not required when doing the vanos (obviously, only when replacing the > cams, > to ensure proper installation). > > Chester, you don't have to remove the intake cam (nor mount it in a > vise). > Also, you don't need the tool to compress the cams with agressive > lobes...you can do it slowly, a little at a time. Otherwise, you run > the > risk of snaping the camshaft. > > When doing Schrick cams, you do have to remove the helical splined > adapter > from the stock intake cam and transfer it to the new schrick intake cam. > THAT'S when you need the vise (and a big-ass breaker bar!) > > Regards, > Ben Liaw > Rogue Engineering . 201.444.8150 . http://www.rogueengineering.com
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#9. Re: [E36M3] VANOS and upper end noise - from Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering
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Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 16:36:29 -0500 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] VANOS and upper end noise Generally speaking, that tensioner between the cams doesn't go bad often. The oil pressure from the engine keeps the tensioner "taut". Over time, the piston can wear, as well as the guide itself. The only bad thing about a defective tensioner is that it can allow for cam timing changes (unintentional) if it does not keep constant "tension". Most people replace it as a maintenance item...and it only retails for $66.75. There is a lower bolt on the tensioner, which is really long, and would probably bottom out on the vanos housing (preventing it from completely coming out). With the proper tools, the vanos removal isn't that difficult. Regards, Ben Liaw Rogue Engineering . 201.444.8150 . http://www.rogueengineering.com > Under as in right behind, on the top end of the engine, right between > the cams. Although it's easier with VANOS removed, can one replace the > secondary tensioner without removing it?
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#10. FS: Turner Motorsport H/I-Stock Suspension w/RD Swaybars - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 17:02:27 -0500 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: FS: Turner Motorsport H/I-Stock Suspension w/RD Swaybars Practically new Turner Motorsport H-Stock/I-Stock E36 M3 suspension consisting of H&R's Group G racing springs (648 lbs. front, 798 lbs. rear) and Turner-spec Bilstein Monotube shocks/struts. Included is the complementary Racing Dynamics swaybar kit consisting of adjustable 27mm front (3-hole) and 22mm rear swaybars (2-hole) with polyurethane bushings and rear adjustable links. Used only 6 race weekends. New $1600+. Asking $1250/BO. Located in Mansfield, MA 02048. Contact me at gfmiiilist@attbi.com or 508-337-4951. - Geof
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#11. ***Welcome JT-Designs and Bimmerworld*** - from Sue Kraft
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Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 16:04:10 -0600 From: Sue Kraft <suekraft@new.rr.com> Subject: ***Welcome JT-Designs and Bimmerworld*** I'd like to take this opportunity to welcome JT-Designs http://www.jt-designs.com/ and Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com/ to our growing family of E36M3 list sponsors. It's really nice to see so much support from the vendors on our list. Please be sure to show your appreciation by paying them a visit the next time you are in the market for some new M3 toys. Thanks Jim and James!! Maybe I'll be able to afford a new whip and handcuffs this year :-) Suzy Your E36M3 list mistress
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#12. WTB: In-Dash CD-Player from Z3 - from Don Trieu
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Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 14:06:16 -0800 From: "Don Trieu" <trieu@mbkengineers.com> Subject: WTB: In-Dash CD-Player from Z3 Looking to buy a factory OEM in-dash single CD-Player from a Z3, please contact me offline at ttrieu@pacbell.net Thanks Don