E36M3 #2885

Friday, January 17, 2003 10:28:30

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Brake pad wear warning light - from Dmitri Zorine
#2. Re: [E36M3] Rear Suspension-Complete rebuild?? - from Robert Chay
#3. Re: [E36M3] wheel arch liners - from Robert Chay
#4. Re: (broken?) aluminum floor jacks - from Neil Maller
#5. Chester's Woes and speaking of employers - from Paul Elliott
#6. Brake pad wear warning light - from Paul Elliott
#7. Re: [E36M3] Brake pad wear warning light - from David Ngo
#8. Re: [E36M3] Brake pad wear warning light - from Tom Byrum
#9. RE: [E36M3] Brake pad wear warning light - from Carey Probst
#10. RE: [E36M3] Chester's Woes and speaking of employers - from Carey Probst

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#1. Brake pad wear warning light - from Dmitri Zorine
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Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 08:10:20 -0500 From: "Dmitri Zorine" <dzm3@technologyoasis.com> Subject: Brake pad wear warning light Hi, Sorry for the previous bad post. Here it is again. The brake pads wore just a bit too thin and the warning light came on the other day. After replacing the pads, the light is still on. Will it reset itself after a while or do I need to do something to reset it? If yes, what's the procedure? Thanks Dmitri '99 M3 Coupe

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#2. Re: [E36M3] Rear Suspension-Complete rebuild?? - from Robert Chay
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Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 08:46:23 -0500 From: "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Suspension-Complete rebuild?? Hey Jonathan, 94k miles on the stock RTAB's??? I'm impressed. You should really replace them and they are most definitely shot. Don't forget to get the GC plates too. I don't think ~6k miles will make a difference when you change all the bushings in the rear. What RSM's did you put in there? How many miles are on them? I've had the JTD RSM's in mine for about 50k miles and they're doing fine with the 'his' bushings. -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> > > Okay, so I got my front control arms/bushings replaced a few months ago, and > I'm noticing more and more that the rear of my car sometimes wants to keep > going one way when I'm trying to go the other (sometimes during hard > acceleration and/or over rough pavement, etc.). > > With 94k+ miles on my car, I'm certain that the RTABs need to be replaced > and I was going to do so while getting the front done, but my mechanic > suggested waiting until 100k and then completely redoing all the bushings in > the rear suspension. He stated that it is good to replace the RTABs, but > that most people overlook all the other bushings. Sounded like a fine idea > at the time, but now that I think about the HUGE expense, I'm wondering if > that's really necessary. What do y'all think. All of it in one shot, or > RTABs now and just wait to see if I end up having to pay double labor later > to replace anything else? > > Also, like the front control arms, is it a good idea to replace any of the > other rear suspsension components due to fatigue? For what it's worth, the > rear shocks and RSMs are relatively new, but I'll probably replace RSMs > again anyway... just because. > > Thanks, > Jonathan L. >

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#3. Re: [E36M3] wheel arch liners - from Robert Chay
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Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 08:48:29 -0500 From: "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] wheel arch liners Andy, They're not that expensive to begin with so I'd say pick them up at your local dealer. I paid ~$18 @ for the fronts and put rubber and metal washers about the size of quarters where they are screwed on so they don't rip out. -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- From: <fourfa@fourfa.com> I need new plastic wheel arch liners. Are these prohibitively expensive to ship, should I order from the local CCA-discount dealer (some 10% off) instead? Thanks, andy r. 98 m3/2

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#4. Re: (broken?) aluminum floor jacks - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 08:56:51 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: (broken?) aluminum floor jacks on 1/16/03 11:30 PM, Skip Bogard <skip.bogard@alumni.duke.edu> wrote: > Here's my data point to contribute...I was at Harbor Freight in Raleigh and > examined two of them at the store side-by-side: > > Silver model - had a reinforcement rib running the length UNDER the lift > arm...much like a reinforcement rib seen designed into plastic moldings for > things like fishing tackle boxes, plastic tools boxes, or large plastic > storage boxes... > > Blue anodized model - was prettier than the silver model, but did not have the > rib! was completely absent. That's interesting. My original silver model certainly has reinforcing gussets under the lift arm as Skip describes. I've seen the blue model at the HF store here, but didn't think to look underneath. and on 1/16/03 11:30 PM, "KMS - Brett Anderson" <brett@koalamotorsport.com> wrote: > Obviously the silver model has a greater lift capacity. Wasn't the colour > difference discussed recently, one at 3000lb and the other at 4000lb? The new 4000 lb model is apparently blue, but recent sightings of the 3000 lb version also show it as blue. The original 3000 was silver, may also still be available? Back to Skip: > You can't see the reinforcement rib unless you pick up the jack(s) & look > UNDER the lift arm. Other than that...and the color, they looked identical. > > This tells me I should share with list members a warning that they should know > Harbor Freight is not selling a consistent product in their stores...at a > minimum. As to overall quality, I do not know, but it is not consistent > product. Question for Stan or anytone: Any detail(s) on what seems to > allegedly fail? (perhaps the Lift arm or some other part?) I've heard but not seen specifics of two HF failures. One broke off an overhanging segment of the saddle, apparently because the contact point wasn't positioned centrally when jacking. This might not matter much with a steel part, but care needs to be taken with aluminum. James Clay at Bimmerworld previously posted here about breaking an HF side plate while jacking an "angled load." In my experience with lifting cars at the track it's not hard for a jack to tilt if the ground isn't flat and level. Maybe that's what happened here? I've previously pointed out that the HF jack uses aluminum castings for the main load-bearing parts: side plates and lift arm. This isn't as strong a construction as the machined and assembled aluminum plate found in the high end ($600+) racing jacks. So, no surprise here, you get what you pay for. I've been very satisfied with my HF jack, but I'll continue to be careful in how I use it at the track. (At home I have a pair of behemoth "survive a direct hit from a nuke" Lincolns that can be abused all you want.) Neil 96 M3

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#5. Chester's Woes and speaking of employers - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 11:00:33 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Chester's Woes and speaking of employers >>Rich, I can tell you that IT Consulting has but dried up and blown away<< Its not just IT Consultant jobs which have dried up. Its fortune 500 IT shops too. I was laid off from a 4.5 yr gig at GE Capital from an IT development and analysis job. Ive been in the field since the early '90s when I got my MS in CS. And still, there just arent alot of jobs being offered in the field . Didnt really think Id see times like this in this field with my credentials, but there you are. And, those few jobs which do come up have only about 50 guys applying all with tongues out eager to do anything they have to. All I can say is, its a good thing Ive bought all my car goodies and other hobby upgrades when I was flush. Now I can just sit back and enjoy it all. But still, its somewhat disconcerting. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio

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#6. Brake pad wear warning light - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 11:03:01 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Brake pad wear warning light >>The brake pads wore just a bit too thin and the warning light came on the other day. After replacing the pads, the light is still on<< I think that the light should have gone out. Are you sure you put the sensor in the right way, ie, facing the right direction? Or that there's not a short or a break in the wire? Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio

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#7. Re: [E36M3] Brake pad wear warning light - from David Ngo
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Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 08:09:44 -0800 (PST) From: David Ngo <rudngo@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake pad wear warning light Once the light's on, it means that the sensor has been worn down and the circuit broken. Once that happens, you also have to replace the sensor - it's pretty cheap. Dave --- Paul Elliott <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> wrote: > Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 11:03:01 -0500 > From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> > Subject: Brake pad wear warning light > > >>The brake pads wore just a bit too thin and the > warning light came on the > other day. After replacing the pads, the light is > still on<< > > I think that the light should have gone out. Are > you sure you put the > sensor in the right way, ie, facing the right > direction? Or that there's > not a short or a break in the wire? > > Paul Elliott > --------------------------------------------------------- > '99 White M3; 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with > 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 > psi; AA Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse > FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan > Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound > by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com

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#8. Re: [E36M3] Brake pad wear warning light - from Tom Byrum
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Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 11:07:29 -0500 From: Tom Byrum <mycroft@academus.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake pad wear warning light "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> wrote: (01/17/2003 10:57) >I think that the light should have gone out. Are you sure you put the >sensor in the right way, ie, facing the right direction? Or that there's >not a short or a break in the wire? Doesn't the sensor function on a normally closed circuit, and when the pad gets too thin the rotor cuts wires in the sensor, opening the circuit and throwing the light? Replace the sensor whenever the light comes on. Alternatively tie it down somewhere and pay attention to your brake pads. Tom B

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#9. RE: [E36M3] Brake pad wear warning light - from Carey Probst
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Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 11:14:28 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Brake pad wear warning light Did you replace the brake sensor with the pads or reuse the old one. Those sensors are single use. When the pads wear thin they rub the rotor and wear off the insulation, shorting the sensor which sends the signal. They can't be reused, must be replaced. Also a broken or worn wire will cause the problem. I got a false light last year when the 16" wheels for my snows wore some insulation off the wires. Had to replace the sensor then too. >>The brake pads wore just a bit too thin and the warning light came on the other day. After replacing the pads, the light is still on<< Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed.

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#10. RE: [E36M3] Chester's Woes and speaking of employers - from Carey Probst
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Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 11:20:07 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Chester's Woes and speaking of employers There are still some IT consulting groups actively hiring, but not necessarily where you guys want to live. The Oracle Consulting group I'm in is looking to double in size over the next year and is hiring but not actively recruiting. If you are an IT person looking for work with heavy Oracle experience, DBA, OLAP, Data Warehouse, Apps, let me know, I'' see what I can do. You must be willing to travel, possibly heavily, and may need to relocate, depending on position. My work sig. Carey Probst Technical Director Oracle Consulting Dept. of Homeland Security Phone: (518) 584-4388 Fax: (518) 584-8037 E-Mail: Carey.Probst@oracle.com <mailto:Carey.Probst@oracle.com> Member, M.I.T. Educational Council Perm: hcprobst@alum.mit.edu <mailto:hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. -----Original Message----- From: Paul Elliott [mailto:elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net] Sent: Friday, January 17, 2003 10:57 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Chester's Woes and speaking of employers Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 11:00:33 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Chester's Woes and speaking of employers >>Rich, I can tell you that IT Consulting has but dried up and blown away<< Its not just IT Consultant jobs which have dried up. Its fortune 500 IT shops too. I was laid off from a 4.5 yr gig at GE Capital from an IT development and analysis job. Ive been in the field since the early '90s when I got my MS in CS. And still, there just arent alot of jobs being offered in the field . Didnt really think Id see times like this in this field with my credentials, but there you are. And, those few jobs which do come up have only about 50 guys applying all with tongues out eager to do anything they have to. All I can say is, its a good thing Ive bought all my car goodies and other hobby upgrades when I was flush. Now I can just sit back and enjoy it all. But still, its somewhat disconcerting. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************

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