-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. RE: [E36M3] Pressure Bleeding/clutch pedal - from Jamie Howton
Top
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 20:48:35 GMT From: "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@fotofab.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Pressure Bleeding/clutch pedal > the pedal and 'get' a functioning clutch pedal, but what > happened here? Any > ideas? IMHO, in order to _completely_ bleed the clutch circuit you need to remove the clutch slave from the trans housing and slowly depress the plunger whilst holding open the bleed screw. You need to orient the bleed screw up as you do this so that any trapped air bubbles are driven out, then close the bleed screw before slowly releasing the plunger. Make sure that you correctly locate the plunger on the clutch release arm when re-installing it or you will be removing the transmission too; ask me how I know. Regards Jamie Howton 02 330i 5 Spd 95 M3 5 Spd 79 928 5 Spd
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Battery maintainer - from Dave2664@aol.com
Top
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 17:58:42 EST From: Dave2664@aol.com Subject: Battery maintainer Any recommendations on a quality battery maintaniner? My M3 will be garaged for a few months. Thanks Dave
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Re: [E36M3] Battery maintainer - from Geof McLaughlin
Top
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 19:24:37 -0500 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Battery maintainer I heartily recommend VDC Electronic's BatteryMinder (http://www.vdcelectronics.com/batteryminder.htm). Best price with free shipping is $43.20 at RV Parts Express (http://www.rvparts.com/index.php?a4c04ca134b21507492d0dd43907c6f153da7dcb534d06a24fd8d28f0fbde14d10e4c5231debb76eabe0fc7d2d2067bf1d89224a34db8ddab92b4cc9ff52ce6cdd56518a11e166e8dbc67bdf6c115745ed322448b028710b029a31d65bf467d6b5541bf10c11abba8). Geof At 05:07 PM 1/19/2003 -0600, you wrote: >Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 17:58:42 EST >From: Dave2664@aol.com >Subject: Battery maintainer > > >Any recommendations on a quality battery maintaniner? My M3 will be garaged >for a few months. > >Thanks Dave > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >*************************************************
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Jacking Problems - from Patrick Dargan
Top
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 20:10:39 -0500 From: "Patrick Dargan" <darg01@earthlink.net> Subject: Jacking Problems I've been using the Steve D'G. jacking plate for about 3-4 years now and have been quite happy with it. Some time ago, however, I started to notice that the top of the insert was beginning to make two creases in the lower trim panel around the insert hole. Now, I cant put the jack plate into the hole at all, as the trim panel is too low. Has anyone else had this problem? Is it due to the lower trim panel slipping lower, or might it be due to the area that the insert goes into being bent upwards? It is more of problem than might be expected, as now the OE jack will not fit in the hole now either.
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Re: Pressure Bleeding/clutch pedal - from James Clay
Top
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 12:18:19 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: Pressure Bleeding/clutch pedal The clutch is tricky to bleed sometimes. Since the supply hose is at the top of the reservoir, it can go dry or get air in it faster than the brakes - you need to keep the reservoir full. Also, pressure bleeders are fair on clutch systems, but the old pump method is probably still best. Often we have to gravity bleed (nice feature of the clutch) after we finish. James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com 540.639.9648
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Good Shop Needed - from Raginglennie@aol.com
Top
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 19:20:26 EST From: Raginglennie@aol.com Subject: Good Shop Needed Looking for a good BMW independent mechanic in N. Central IL or S. Central WI. Would prefer to avoid Chicago suburbs & traffic. Is Howie Liebengood's Grand Am sponsor, Competition Preparation, located in S. WI? Thanks, Mike Bjerke '95 M3 (waiting for spring)
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Slightly OT: new BMW 745i bugs + videos - from Joseph Kannookadan
Top
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 18:50:16 -0600 From: "Joseph Kannookadan" <joe.kannookadan@sourcelight.com> Subject: Slightly OT: new BMW 745i bugs + videos Hey all, found an article about software bugs. It goes a little into detail about the Micros... BMW 745i. There's a link to videos on the second page. Enjoy... http://www.baselinemag.com/article2/0,3959,833926,00.asp Can't wait till winter's over... --- joe
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Inner Tie Rod Removal - from Geof McLaughlin
Top
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 20:00:18 -0500 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: Inner Tie Rod Removal Can the inner tie rod be removed from the power steering rack without the "special" BMW tool (as indicated in Bentley manual)? Any tips? Thanks. Geof
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Re: [E36M3] Inner Tie Rod Removal - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 19:12:57 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Inner Tie Rod Removal Yes. First, you need a plier to peel away the spring clip that keeps the boot in place (you'll need a replacement one). There is a lock plate that has it's surface bent around the tie rod nut to prevent it from backing out. It's pretty hard to bend back so I just used the wrench and turned the nut. You'll need a 32mm slim wrench to do this. I ground down the BMW tool for the fan nut. The TIS says not to bang the securing plate to lock it in place, but I don't see how else you could do this. Extend the rack about half way and have a few well placed strikes from a hammer hit the flange and it'll look like factory :) Torque spec is 71Nm. 32 21 1 139 786 Rubber boot (if yours is torn) 32 11 1 137 132 Tension strap (on the rack itself) 32 11 1 126 568 Tension strap (on the tie rod) 32 11 1 140 464 Securing plate (one for each side) 32 11 1 139 315 Tie rod left 32 11 1 139 316 Tie rod right HTH, Chester --- Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> wrote: > Can the inner tie rod be removed from the power steering rack without the > "special" BMW tool (as indicated in Bentley manual)? =====
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. When your Bimmer won't start - from PeterFry@aol.com
Top
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 23:51:33 EST From: PeterFry@aol.com Subject: When your Bimmer won't start Fellow M3'ers, Looking for a little troubleshooting help here... I've spent the day driving all over Phoenix in my 99 M3 trying to get the parts necessary to get my wife's 95 318i going. (Obligatory M3 content). The other day, the 318 just wouldn't start. Got all the dash lights, stereo worked, just no starter motor turning (or even any buzzing or clicking). I figured the battery charge had just gotten low, and replaced the (very old) battery. Then discovered a missing battery vent tube, and after attempts at improvising, just drove to the other end of town to get the OEM part. Trouble is... it still does the same thing!! Anyone have some troubleshooting ideas? I'm thinking solenoid, but I can't find the thing under the hood (I know where it is on the M3). I'm trying to avoid having to have the thing towed to a shop and paying too much to have someone apply the common sense that I hope to get from this group. Can anyone help? Peter