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#1. Re: [E36M3] Inner Tie Rod Removal - from Ron Katona
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Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 06:41:08 -0500 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Inner Tie Rod Removal Chester Wong wrote: > Yes. First, you need a plier to peel away the spring clip that keeps the boot > in place (you'll need a replacement one). Use your basic plastic cable tie to replace the spring clips. There is a lock plate that has it's > surface bent around the tie rod nut to prevent it from backing out. It's > pretty hard to bend back so I just used the wrench and turned the nut. You'll > need a 32mm slim wrench to do this. Use a *punch* to straighten the bent over flap for removal. Do not pound on the rack with a hammer. Use same punch to bend the flap over upon installation of the new plate. Along with having a flap bent back, there's a small alignment tab in the lock plate that falls into a hole on the rack. I ground down the BMW tool for the fan > nut. The TIS says not to bang the securing plate to lock it in place, but I > don't see how else you could do this. Extend the rack about half way and have > a few well placed strikes from a hammer hit the flange and it'll look like > factory :) Torque spec is 71Nm. > You can use an large adjustable wrench to remove and install the inner tie rod just by grabbing the ball joint itself if you don't have the BMW tool or a slim 32mm. You'll mar the outside finish of the joint... which will never be seen by man nor beast again once installed. -- Ron Katona
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#2. Battery maintainer - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 10:52:32 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Battery maintainer Geof says > > I heartily recommend VDC Electronic's BatteryMinder > (http://www.vdcelectronics.com/batteryminder.htm). I second that. I have three of them in use and they work great. My 1996 motorcycle still has its original battery due to the Battery Tender and it works like a new battery every time I use the motorcycle. Best regards, Rich
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#3. [FS] Nady PMC-2 Intercom - from Ned Coonen
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Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 10:08:42 -0600 From: "Ned Coonen" <Ned@fastbears.com> Subject: [FS] Nady PMC-2 Intercom New in box, never opened. My wife won this at our chapters annual dinner last weekend. I already have two so this one is for sale cheep. $55 including UPS to you (USA only). Here's more information on the unit. http://www.nadywireless.com/products/product_pgs/prcmoto_pg1.html Ned Coonen Windy City Chapter
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#4. Re: PWR Aluminum Radiator - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 15:24:54 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: PWR Aluminum Radiator This radiator, about which I posted last week, was delivered today from Absoluteradiator.com. The unit was nicely double boxed and arrived unscathed. I won't be installing it for a while, so I can't comment on fit yet. Appearance however is fine. It is, as advertised, all aluminum. Welds are workmanlike rather than works of art, but no worse for all that. All the expected features seem to be present in the expected places: spigots for hoses, sensor ports, stepped shape of the side tanks, etc. The overall profile certainly appears similar to the stock part, and nicely machined alloy parts provide mounting features where called for. My bathroom scales say it weighs 13 lbs, compared with stock at 9.5 (per the ETK), which is what hybrid plastic construction would get you. Of course my bathroom scales say I weigh 20 lbs more than I'm sure is correct, so the real weight of the new radiator is probably minus 7 lbs. ;) Will report further on installation. Neil 96 M3
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#5. Re: Jacking Problems - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 19:06:36 -0500 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Jacking Problems Did you read the instructions for using the jackplate? http://www.ultimategarage.com/jackplat.html It says that you can use it to lift a single wheel, or a single side of the car (when the jackplate is inserted in the rear hole). But, if you first lift one side of the car, put it on jackstands, and then use it on the other side of the car (to put the car on four jackstands), you will be putting a much heavier load on the second side, since the body of the car will be tilted, and you'll be lifting alot more weight. If you've done this, it's a good possibility that you've bent the chassis! Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata >Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 20:10:39 -0500 >From: "Patrick Dargan" <darg01@earthlink.net> >Subject: Jacking Problems > > >I've been using the Steve D'G. jacking plate for about 3-4 years now and >have been quite happy with it. > >Some time ago, however, I started to notice that the top of the insert was >beginning to make two creases in the lower trim panel around the insert >hole. > >Now, I cant put the jack plate into the hole at all, as the trim panel is >too low. > >Has anyone else had this problem? > >Is it due to the lower trim panel slipping lower, or might it be due to the >area that the insert goes into being bent upwards? > >It is more of problem than might be expected, as now the OE jack will not >fit in the hole now either. _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
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#6. To sell or not to sell - from Shelhart2@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 20:47:38 EST From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: To sell or not to sell Group, I advertised my 1998 M3 a couple weeks ago at $25.5k and received an offer today for $22k. My main driver was a need for a 4 door and I am closing in on that magical depreciation point of 70k miles. The car is in great shape. I personally did the 60k service. The car is starting to feel a little loose and has a few rattles. Could use a complete suspension upgrade and bushings. I don't have to sell the car and have been unimpressed in the 4 door options I've driven (when $$ is factored in). My thought is to keep the car as a "toy" and buy a bit lesser of a 4 door (older 5 series, etc.). Question: 1. Approaching 70k, when might I run into Vanos issues? Any signs I should be aware of? With another $2k ish invested (suspension + possible clutch), can I get the reliability out of the car for another 30k without a major issue (assuming I do thorough maintenence and don't drive like a complete idiot)? Or is it time to part with it for $22k? Thoughts? TIA. Shel Hart 1998 M3
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#7. Frozen Coolant - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 21:54:58 -0500 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: Frozen Coolant I just went outside to do some work on my 1995 M3 and while working on that car discovered that my coolant is frozen rock solid. I did not start the engine. Am I screwed in terms of any possible engine damage? Geof
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#8. RE: [E36M3] To sell or not to sell - from Michael
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Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 21:56:41 -0500 From: "Michael" <95m3ltw@charter.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] To sell or not to sell You ask a question that is next to impossible to answer. I have known M3 owners to drive 150k with 0 ZERO issues, and I have known owners that had almost every issue at 50k. Driving style does affect it sometimes, sometimes not. Maintenance helps, but then again, sometimes not. I will tell you, sometimes trying to sell a car can go on for months, sometimes it is worth taking an offer if within a few thousand of what you need. Also, what kind of search will it take to find the replacement car. Several other issues to expand on, but the only important question can be answered by you and you alone. DO you like the car??? Or do you want another car??? Answer that, then enjoy what you decide. I put 85k on my M3, with no problems whatsoever. It didn't need rear control arm bushings, shock mounts, nothing. I did change the water pump and I am sure it could have used new shocks, but it drove great and felt as good as my other 95 with all new bushings. Now if you are worried about being stranded and want to do preventive maintenance on your car, here is a list that others will add stuff to as well 1. radiator, plastic weakens over time and if it breaks on a trip, you are stranded. Cheap replacement 2. All belts and hoses, should be routine every 2-3yrs 3. fan clutch 4 budget money to do all of the bushings plus shocks if needed. It will make the car feel 'like new' again. But with this you can wait until needed, at 70k plus, most likely needed though. Beyond that, do anticipate certain things to fail, be prepared to pay for the repairs etc, but it is still cheaper than buying new and depreciating the cost. Plus, be ready to have a rental car handy, they are very cheap nowadays etc. If you do the math, ownership of your present car still is cheaper than a newer one . When you get to 150k, then it is time to consider selling IMO. Mike -----Original Message----- From: Shelhart2@aol.com [mailto:Shelhart2@aol.com]
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#9. Re: [E36M3] To sell or not to sell - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 10:53:39 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] To sell or not to sell Shelhart2@aol.com wrote: > > I advertised my 1998 M3 a couple weeks ago at $25.5k and received an > offer today for $22k. My main driver was a need for a 4 door and I > am closing in on that magical depreciation point of 70k miles. Shel, What's so magical about the 70K point? > The car is in great shape. I personally did the 60k service. The > car is starting to feel a little loose and has a few rattles. Could > use a complete suspension upgrade and bushings. All of the above can be DIY-ed in under $1K. > Question: > 1. Approaching 70k, when might I run into Vanos issues? Any > signs I should be aware of? I do not believe anyone has established a correlation between Vanos failures and any specific mileage. If you engine feel strong and you don't hear any rattling sounds in the engine bay, you have nothing to worry about. > With another $2k ish invested (suspension + possible clutch), > can I get the reliability out of the car for another 30k without > a major issue (assuming I do thorough maintenence and don't drive > like a complete idiot)? You can probably get 'enough' reliability out of that car for the next 130K miles! > Or is it time to part with it for $22k? Thoughts? Your call. alex f
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Frozen Coolant - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 09:13:33 -0800 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Frozen Coolant Re: >I just went outside to do some work on my 1995 M3 and while working >on that car discovered that my coolant is frozen rock solid. I did >not start the engine. > >Am I screwed in terms of any possible engine damage? You are if it expanded in the block ... let it thaw out completely, then fire it up -- you'll know soon enough if there's damage. BTDT with an Alfa. -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com