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#1. Re: [E36M3] Frozen Coolant - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 12:48:34 -0500 From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Frozen Coolant Geof, If it is really "frozen rock solid" like you imply, then unfortunately that is not good. I would suspect your radiator is destroyed. As for the engine block, you might get lucky here. First, the engine will be a few degrees (hopefully) warmer than the radiator. It is more protected from the wind and it takes longer to cool down than the radiator. Second, there are "freeze" plugs in the engine block. They are just tin can shaped plugs pressed into the block. They should pop out if the engine freezes. I don't know what it takes to put the freeze plugs back in but I doubt it is easy. At least it will be cheaper than a new block. Good luck! Lowell Seaton '95 M3 - Dallas, Texas -------------------------------------- > I just went outside to do some work on my 1995 M3 and while working on that > car discovered that my coolant is frozen rock solid. I did > not start the > engine. > > Am I screwed in terms of any possible engine damage? > > Geof
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#2. Jacking Problems - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 13:00:22 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Jacking Problems >>It says that you can use it to lift a single wheel, or a single side of the car (when the jackplate is inserted in the rear hole).<< Instead of Steve's jack plate, Im using a similar looking one but much cheaper from Pelicanparts. Im sure its not as good a tool, but its been working fine for me. Anyway, I dont know if this is true to all M3s, or just to ones with X braces, but Ive found that when I jack up one side using the rear side jack point with the jack plate inserted, not only do I get the rear wheel off the ground, but the front comes off the ground enough such that with that one jack location, I can easily change both wheels on that side. I presume This is ok, as its still only lifting a single side. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio
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#3. Re: To sell or not to sell - from Ivan Chou
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Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 13:05:27 -0500 (EST) From: Ivan Chou <ichou@sdf.lonestar.org> Subject: Re: To sell or not to sell Shelhart2@aol.com wrote: > Or is it time to part with it for $22k? Thoughts? Shel, If not now for $22k, then it will be later for $19k, $16k, etc. Factor that in with the upcoming repairs/costs that you forecast, and it does not look like a good ROI down the line. I will have to agree that even with all the nice performance cars coming out recently, there is still nothing quite like the E36 M3 sedan. Ivan
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Jacking Problems - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 10:06:14 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Jacking Problems Why the need to even use the hole in the side of the car anyway? Is your car significantly lowered that you can't get the saddle below the car? I really see absolutely no reason to use that hole at all. We once took off Wayne's rocker panel and saw how screwed up the hole was from the first body shop. IMO, that hole should only be used for emergency situations where you don't have a floor jack and are stuck using the factory jack from the trunk. It simply is not worth the risk of bending that hole. Chester --- Paul Elliott <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> wrote: > Instead of Steve's jack plate, Im using a similar looking one but much > cheaper from Pelicanparts. Im sure its not as good a tool, but its been > working fine for me. Anyway, I dont know if this is true to all M3s, or > just to ones with X braces, but Ive found that when I jack up one side using > the rear side jack point with the jack plate inserted, not only do I get the > rear wheel off the ground, but the front comes off the ground enough such > that with that one jack location, I can easily change both wheels on that > side. I presume This is ok, as its still only lifting a single side. =====
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#5. Re: Frozen Coolant - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 13:05:51 -0500 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Re: Frozen Coolant I assume these cars have frost/freeze plugs in the block (someone correct me if I am wrong)? I'd check those, they are supposed to save the block if the coolant freezes. They all should be popped out if things are really frozen. -Justin -- '76 02 (Whimsical) '97 M3 (Orion) BMW CCA#77056 check out http://users.vei.net/jgerry
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#6. Re: Jacking Problems - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 13:25:41 -0500 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Jacking Problems Steve's web page says that it's okay to lift the entire side of the vehicle via the rear jacking location. What is NOT okay is to jack one side, put it on jackstands, and then use the jack plate to jack the other side and also put it on jackstands. Since you have the car's weight shifted (one side up), the stress on the jacking hole for the other side will be much higher, and could result in bending the chassis. I use the jackplate to get the chassis raised, but always put the car on jackstands. I don't leave the car's weight suspended by the jack plate any longer than necessary. Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata >From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> >To: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> >CC: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> >Subject: Jacking Problems >Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 13:00:22 -0500 > > >>It says that you can use it to lift a single wheel, or a single side of >the >car (when the jackplate is inserted in the rear hole).<< > >Instead of Steve's jack plate, Im using a similar looking one but much >cheaper from Pelicanparts. Im sure its not as good a tool, but its been >working fine for me. Anyway, I dont know if this is true to all M3s, or >just to ones with X braces, but Ive found that when I jack up one side >using >the rear side jack point with the jack plate inserted, not only do I get >the >rear wheel off the ground, but the front comes off the ground enough such >that with that one jack location, I can easily change both wheels on that >side. I presume This is ok, as its still only lifting a single side. > >Paul Elliott _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
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#7. Re: To sell or not to sell - from Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
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Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 13:40:10 -0500 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Re: To sell or not to sell Shel, I have @130k on my car, and did many of my performance upgrades after 100k miles. I have owned the car for 5 years and since it had 45k miles. I have had no major issues with my car....other than it falling over a cliff... Regards, Stan Shaw Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net http://www.excell.net/ "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Benjamin Franklin
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Jacking Problems - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 13:52:14 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Jacking Problems Chester, >>Why the need to even use the hole in the side of the car anyway? Is your car significantly lowered that you can't get the saddle below the car?<< Thats pretty much it. I CAN get it under there depending on whether or not Ive got a very level surface, but, I prefer to jack using the jack tool in the stock hole, and save the hockey puck location for a stand, if I have to crawl under. > It simply is not worth the risk of bending that hole Ill keep that in mind. Paul Elliott --------------------------------------------------------- '99 White M3; 45K miles; Dinan stage II SC kit with 6" RMS crank pulley: 11 psi; AA Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection; Fikse FM-10s; X-Brace; Dinan Koni Suspension; Stygar SS and Clutch Stop; Sound by Polk, Excelon, JLAudio ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chester Wong" <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> To: "Paul Elliott" <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net>; "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 1:06 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Jacking Problems > Why the need to even use the hole in the side of the car anyway? Is your car > significantly lowered that you can't get the saddle below the car? I really > see absolutely no reason to use that hole at all. We once took off Wayne's > rocker panel and saw how screwed up the hole was from the first body shop. > IMO, that hole should only be used for emergency situations where you don't > have a floor jack and are stuck using the factory jack from the trunk. > > It simply is not worth the risk of bending that hole. > > Chester > > --- Paul Elliott <elliott.paul@worldnet.att.net> wrote: > > Instead of Steve's jack plate, Im using a similar looking one but much > > cheaper from Pelicanparts. Im sure its not as good a tool, but its been > > working fine for me. Anyway, I dont know if this is true to all M3s, or > > just to ones with X braces, but Ive found that when I jack up one side using > > the rear side jack point with the jack plate inserted, not only do I get the > > rear wheel off the ground, but the front comes off the ground enough such > > that with that one jack location, I can easily change both wheels on that > > side. I presume This is ok, as its still only lifting a single side. > > > ===== > >
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Frozen Coolant - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 12:00:42 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Frozen Coolant "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> wrote: > > >I just went outside to do some work on my 1995 M3 and while working > >on that car discovered that my coolant is frozen rock solid. I did > >not start the engine. > > > >Am I screwed in terms of any possible engine damage? > > You are if it expanded in the block ... let it thaw out completely, > then fire it up -- you'll know soon enough if there's damage. There are 6? water plugs obscured from view by the intake manifold. In theory, they are supposed to pop to relieve the pressure of the freezing water. I don't know how well it works in practice or how easy it is to tell by looking at them if they had popped or not. If you start the car and see coolant dripping down the driver side of the block, they probably had popped. Geof, Out of curiosity, what coolant/water mixture were you running and how cold did it get your neck of the woods? alex f
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#10. Desperate: Help needed in Bay Area - from Michael Maigret x2196
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Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 11:15:25 -0800 (PST) From: "Michael Maigret x2196" <studmuffin@galaxy.nsc.com> Subject: Desperate: Help needed in Bay Area My M3's slave cylinder piston has fallen into the transmission along with a small magnet I was using to try and fish it out. Does anyone in the Bay Area have a tool like the one Griot's Garage sells that is flexible with a small, but strong sheathed magnet? http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=65001 If so, I would greatly appreciate borrowing it. Please e-mail me privately if you can help me-- thanks!