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#1. Re: Jacking Problems - Answer - from shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com
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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 09:59:15 -0500 From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com Subject: Re: Jacking Problems - Answer >Anyone who has a car with a lowered suspension needs to use these inserts to jack up the car. Moreover, even those >who don't the factory jack uses these holes. Also if you are going to put your car up on jack stands with flat >tops (like those 5 ton ones from Griots) you have to use these inserts to jack up the car and then slide the jack >under the jack pads. If you jack the car up by the jack pads - no way to get a jack there. Guys, there is a very simple solution to all of this. Go out and buy a cheapie Sears jack that has a low saddle point to use in conjunction with your hefty 3 ton, 90 pound floor jack that you use in the garage. Use the cheapie jack (or the factory jack, or a scissor jack that you steal from your wife's car or whatever) to lift the car by the hockey puck or the factory hole, only enough so that you can then slide your floor jack under the car to lift the rear by the differential carrier and the front by the subframe. Alternatively, if you have a jack plate, and you have not damaged the jack holes yet, you can continue to use the jack plate to get the car in place to get the jack in the proper location for lifting the car onto stands. This alleviates the need to lift the car by one side using the hockey puck, and now you have no problem getting the stands where you need them. I do this with my race car all the time and works just as described with no drama. Be safe out there. Shane K. '96 M3 '94 325i #335JP This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited.
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#2. Re: [E36M3] coolant freezing- a solution.. now Parking Brake - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 10:13:18 -0500 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] coolant freezing- a solution.. now Parking Brake Not sure about this... Cables are almost never the problem unless you are talking a super high mileage car with really bad rear brakes. I grew up in a pretty cold climate (winters would reach -35F) and as long as you use your parking brake regularly then I've never seen a problem with using them. It is more prone to happen with cars that have rear drums, as a shoe would stick to the drum itself (large hammer anyone?). Yes, I do know that the handbrake does actuate a small drum brake on our E36s but as long as its used regularly I've never had a problem. I ran into someone who left a car parked for 6 months in cold weather and the clutch disk glued itself to the flywheel (or maybe the TO bearing froze not 100% sure). Could not shift it at all. Little bit harder to fix than a rear drum. YMMV as always. -Justin -- '76 02 (Whimsical) (sleeping with no parking brake and its not in gear) '97 M3 (Orion) (parking brake every night) BMW CCA#77056 check out http://users.vei.net/jgerry
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#3. Anyone with the freeform euro headlights? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 07:53:29 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Anyone with the freeform euro headlights? I have two replacement lenses that I can't use on my car (I have the projector lamps). Before I send them back, I was wondering if anyone would want to buy them off me. Chester =====
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#4. exhausts - thanks - from James Clay
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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 11:10:14 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: exhausts - thanks Thanks to all who replied. I still can't find the site - wish I had bookmarked it, but I was club racing an E30 M3 then, had a different job, and couldn't care less about E36 cars... I was looking for two things - a cheaper exhaust for the street/track crowd and one that makes the most power for a T2 car we are building. Looks like there are no good cheap alternatives unfortunately and I will probably stick with what we have there. And apparently I can do better than any stock system I have seen with a custom merge collector into a 3" oval, similar to the rear of the World Challenge exhaust we have. Thanks again. James http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance
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#5. LTW flywheel and timing issues - from Chris Gant
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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 11:21:15 -0500 From: Chris Gant <cgant@cox.net> Subject: LTW flywheel and timing issues Has anyone with the LTW Flywheel successfully removed the Cams and/or head without totally messing up the timing? I recently had an issue with coolant in the oil, so I've dedided to R&R the head gasket myself, and possibly add some cams while I'm in there, but my local mechanic says without the locking pin in the flywheel my chances for accidentally turning the crank while re-installing everything are pretty high, and that once that happens it's almost impossible to get everything straight again. This is the only real issue that's keeping me from starting this project myself. Anyone have any comforting advice? Chris Gant BTW, does anyone have an OBC that they don't need? Doesn't need to be working, I just want the LCD out of it.
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#6. Harbor Freight - from Kris Welhart
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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 10:33:22 -0600 From: "Kris Welhart" <kris.welhart@cyou.com> Subject: Harbor Freight Hello all, With all of the talk about Harbor Freight, I just wanted to give some personal experinces and practices so that it might save someones Sunday afternoon. I have cracked an entire Pittsburg (harbor freights tool brand) Impact Socket set (The thick black ones), some were done by hand. I have sheared numerous bolts from equipment and other tools as well. When I bought my engine stand, I replaced all the load bearing hardware with Quality grade 8 bolts, the stuff that comes with it is NOT grade 8, or it is a different scale. I have lost bolts on my $40 floor jack that almost ruined the entire day. The point is to try to buy quality tools in order to avoid being stuck from finishing an install on a Sunday afternoon. I have seen the aluminum jack and it looks pretty slick, but I would have another jack in the same garage if I was going to use it. I think this is a case where you get what you pay for, so just use caution and think about the potential outcomes before you start. I am not saying I won't buy anything else from HF, I am just saying be careful. Heres to the Craftsman lifetime guarantee, Kris
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#7. Aftermarket seats: need opinions! - from Jon Phillips
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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 08:52:02 -0800 From: jon@maximumpc.com (Jon Phillips) Subject: Aftermarket seats: need opinions! I'm fed up with my Vaders: They're too difficult to position just right; too creaky; too heavy; and showing signs of age. I'd like as much feedback as possible on what aftermarket seats people have installed. Please include info on: - name/model - what you like and don't like about your new seats - fitment issues (problems with installation, does your helment still fit, that sort of thing...) - As far as controls, do they NOT offer any adjustment options provided by Vaders? For what it's worth, I will not be buying leather, and I'm not interested in a full-blown competition seat. My car is a daily driver that sees 6 or so track days a year. Finally, can aftermarkat seats run either standard 3-point belts or competition belts, and can the two be swapped back and forth in an hour or so? Thanks. And spare no details!
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#8. Re: [E36M3] LTW flywheel and timing issues - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 09:13:18 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] LTW flywheel and timing issues Well....if you rotate the engine to get the cam blocks locked into place and then take the car out of gear, you should have no problems putting everything back in using the cam locks again. Ya see? It is possible, just not as easy. Also...you can get one of those TDC indicators that screw into the spark plug. Maybe the timing from the factory could be off by a little? Chester --- Chris Gant <cgant@cox.net> wrote: > Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 11:21:15 -0500 > From: Chris Gant <cgant@cox.net> > Subject: LTW flywheel and timing issues > > Has anyone with the LTW Flywheel successfully removed the Cams and/or head > without totally messing up the timing? I recently had an issue with coolant > in the oil, so I've dedided to R&R the head gasket myself, and possibly add > some cams while I'm in there, but my local mechanic says without the locking > pin in the flywheel my chances for accidentally turning the crank while > re-installing everything are pretty high, and that once that happens it's > almost impossible to get everything straight again. This is the only real > issue that's keeping me from starting this project myself. Anyone have any > comforting advice? > > Chris Gant > > BTW, does anyone have an OBC that they don't need? Doesn't need to be > working, I just want the LCD out of it. > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > =====
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#9. Re: [E36M3] jacking problems - answer - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 09:18:10 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] jacking problems - answer Wasn't sure if I was going off on a tangent, but I still don't see why people have to use the holes in the side of the car. I understand the lowered car and everything, but....if you shove a floor jack and lift at say the front hockey puck until the wheel is off the ground and then lower the car again (car in gear or parking brake engaged), the tire will bite first and leave the car in a jacked up state. That's usually enough to then get the jack under the front of the car to lift by the subframe. If you need more, then do repeat for the other side or do what someone said about getting a cheap Sears jack and lifting from the hockey puck. Or....spend a few minutes and get some plywood and make little ramps. Chester --- dholeman <dholeman@racepad.com> wrote: > People are going off on the wrong tangent in answering this question. The > rocker panel is not slipping. The the jack insert goes into a hole in the > rocker panel. On a car in good condition you will notice that there is a > sleve that this sides into. This sleave is welded to sheet metal. What has > happened is that this can not bear much weight and the sleve has torn from > from its lower weld and is being pressed up into the sheet metal above. The > outward symptom is that you can't fit the jack insert into the sleve or when > jack up the car the insert is pressing against the top of the sideskirt hole. > I know this because I have this problem. =====
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#10. RE: [E36M3] jacking problems - answer - from Michael
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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 12:47:10 -0500 From: "Michael" <95m3ltw@charter.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] jacking problems - answer If someone needs to jack up a lowered M3 more than once, then just go buy some 1x6's and make a 2 level ramp, so to speak. Pull the car up on the wood and presto, you have the clearance you need. I am sure I had the lowest M3 possible with my Hstock LTW club racer. It was very low. Could not drive it on alignment machines etc. I just used some 2x6's I had laying around, took a table saw, notched the end so it was ramped a bit, like 45degrees etc and just used that. Much easier than jacking twice or using the pads. Never have liked the jacking plates for some reason, could just imagine one slipping out etc. Mike -----Original Message----- From: Chester Wong [mailto:chester_p_wong@yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2003 12:27 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] jacking problems - answer Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 09:18:10 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] jacking problems - answer Wasn't sure if I was going off on a tangent, but I still don't see why people have to use the holes in the side of the car. I understand the lowered car and everything, but....if you shove a floor jack and lift at say the front hockey puck until the wheel is off the ground and then lower the car again (car in gear or parking brake engaged), the tire will bite first and leave the car in a jacked up state. That's usually enough to then get the jack under the front of the car to lift by the subframe. If you need more, then do repeat for the other side or do what someone said about getting a cheap Sears jack and lifting from the hockey puck. Or....spend a few minutes and get some plywood and make little ramps. Chester --- dholeman <dholeman@racepad.com> wrote: > People are going off on the wrong tangent in answering this question. The > rocker panel is not slipping. The the jack insert goes into a hole in the > rocker panel. On a car in good condition you will notice that there is a > sleve that this sides into. This sleave is welded to sheet metal. What has > happened is that this can not bear much weight and the sleve has torn from > from its lower weld and is being pressed up into the sheet metal above. The > outward symptom is that you can't fit the jack insert into the sleve or when > jack up the car the insert is pressing against the top of the sideskirt hole. > I know this because I have this problem. ===== ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************