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#1. WTB: M3 rear bumper and side skirts - from DrDan976@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 19:46:55 -0500 From: DrDan976@aol.com Subject: WTB: M3 rear bumper and side skirts I have a 95 m3 lux package. I am looking for a rear bumper and the regular style M3 side skirt (rocker panels). If anyone has these for sale please email me. Thank you. Dan Wang 95 M3
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#2. LTW flywheel and timing issues - from Josh
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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 18:31:52 -0700 From: Josh <eurosprt@xmission.com> Subject: LTW flywheel and timing issues At 12:07 PM 1/23/2003 -0600, you wrote: >-------------------- 5 -------------------- >Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 11:21:15 -0500 >From: Chris Gant <cgant@cox.net> >Subject: LTW flywheel and timing issues > >Has anyone with the LTW Flywheel successfully removed the Cams and/or head >without totally messing up the timing? I recently had an issue with >coolant in the oil, so I've dedided to R&R the head gasket myself, and >possibly add some cams while I'm in there, but my local mechanic says >without the locking pin in the flywheel my chances for accidentally >turning the crank while re-installing everything are pretty high, and that >once that happens it's almost impossible to get everything straight again. >This is the only real issue that's keeping me from starting this project >myself. Anyone have any comforting advice? > >Chris Gant > >BTW, does anyone have an OBC that they don't need? Doesn't need to be >working, I just want the LCD out of it. Chris, Yes, I have personally installed cam systems on two cars locally with LTW flywheels and you are right to be concerned with the fact that you will likely not have the slot in the back of the LTW flywheel for proper fixturing of the crankshaft via BMW's special tool p/n 88 88 6 112 300. Unfortunately, many of the LTW flywheels on the market are improperly designed without the locating slot. However if you are very careful, you can still install the cams without the tool. The key to doing the install under this circumstance is paying close attention to the crankshaft position during the removal and installation of the VANOS assembly. You need to accurately line up the crankshaft at TDC using the mark on the harmonic balancer and timing chain cover. Technically you will be best off using a dial indicator or similar device through the spark plug hole to even more accurately track and maintain the crank position throughout the process. If you are diligent with maintaining crank location and use the cam blocks/fixtures BMW special tool p/n 88 88 6 113 240 during the install process you will be just fine. Regards, Josh MacMurray http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com/cams.html
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#3. RE: Z8 Driving Experience - from Joseph L Bachman III
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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 22:29:17 -0500 From: "Joseph L Bachman III" <josephbachman@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Z8 Driving Experience The Z8 school was all taught on Z8s, so it was quite a nice treat to have that much more power over my M. I would love to do it all in a race tuned car. The class was 2 days: First day was on the BMW test track you mentioned. (and yes, 100+ down that back straight was very scary given the lack of a runoff area). Day two was at the Michelin tire testing facility. Huge place with a 12 acre asphalt 'lake,' irrigated road/auto-x course, large road course, and several other test facilities. That place is much more suited to high speed driving. It is free (with the purchase of a Z8!) They just announced an advanced M school that will be held at Lowes motor speedway. The prerequisite is M school, M5 school, or Z8 school. Should be quite a lot of fun. I'm signing up ASAP. -------- 2 questions Is it free besides buying a new M or have they lowered the price yet? Haha And do they use anything besides the small track behind the Performance center now? If you think it is fun in a stock M, you should try that small course in a B modified M3 race car. I think I remember doing about 110 around the back corner. Very scary considering the elevation of the track and the soft ground it was built on. Kind of surprised they did not have a more safety oriented track in mind.
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#4. RE: [E36M3] RE: Z8 Driving Experience - from Michael
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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 23:43:26 -0500 From: "Michael" <95m3ltw@charter.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Z8 Driving Experience On a side note, Michelin is nice enough to let the local CCA chapter use that site for an autoX. Have not been to one yet there, but plan on it in the near future. Mike -----Original Message----- From: Joseph L Bachman III [mailto:josephbachman@hotmail.com] Day two was at the Michelin tire testing facility. Huge place with a 12 acre asphalt 'lake,' irrigated road/auto-x course, large road course, and several other test facilities. That place is much more suited to high speed driving.
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#5. Clutch R&R/Transmission Output seal question - from mroblin@att.net
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Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 05:23:40 +0000 From: mroblin@att.net Subject: Clutch R&R/Transmission Output seal question Hi All, 95 M3, planning a clutch R&R and other bits/seals whilst I've got things out and accessible. How tough is it to replace the transmission (rear) output seal? Bentley shows a BMW tool to hold the output flange, another to pull it, a seal puller for the seal, and a BMW seal driver for the replacement. Do I need these special tools? Also, a thinwall 30mm deep socket is required to losten the output shaft collar nut. In searching, people have described grinding on a standard Craftsman socket - how much grinding is required - how much thickness and how far up the socket? It looks like I could rig up tool to hold the flange, and use a 3 arm puller for pulling the flange. Are the clearances between the seal ID and the shaft OD too tight for a regular seal puller? Will I nead the seal driver? Thanks, Murray
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#6. [E36M3] Re: New AA Superchargers - from ajoseph1981@earthlink.net
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Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 05:34:54 -0600 From: <ajoseph1981@earthlink.net> Subject: [E36M3] Re: New AA Superchargers I thought that 'roots-type' fixed displacement superchargers were more prone to heating the charge air than centrifugal type compressors due to the charge air wanting to pulse and create turbulence; turbulence being caused by the fact that these superchargers do not actually compress the air, just move it in high volume. The air backs up in the intake tract of the engine and this is what creates the boost pressure. Since the air wants to 'go' somewhere it tries to go back in to the blower and this fights the air coming in and heat is created because of this chaos. Efficiency here ~65%-ish I know there is a Lysholm type of fixed displacement blower, but I don't know much here other than it is more of twin screw type compressor and more efficient (?). It was my understanding that a centrifugal type compressor actually compresses the air as it moves it, thus being more efficient and heating the air less. Now I know this is dependent on the vane design, housing, how fast it has to spin to move a given volume...a lot of other things I'm probably ignorant about. Efficiency of this type compressor being in the ~70-75% neighborhood. So I guess I would ask this: What type crank-driven compressor is the best and of those which is the best bang for the buck? What's the hot new set-up coming this spring? Andrew Joseph ajoseph1981@earthlink.net ----- Original Message ----- > -------------------- 7 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 16:35:21 -0500 > From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> > Subject: Fw: Fw: [E36M3] Re: New AA Superchargers > > >From the BMW software guru, Jim C. > > Regards, > Ben Liaw > Rogue Engineering . 201.444.8150 . http://www.rogueengineering.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jim Conforti" <lndshrk@xmission.com> > To: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> > Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2003 3:44 PM > Subject: Re: Fw: [E36M3] Re: New AA Superchargers > > > > > Unfortunately, the Rotrex is nothing new, it was tested and > > then summarily rejected by us back in 1998. I think if I > > look to the back of a dusty shelf in our shop, I can still > > find the culprit. > > > > We went so far as to design/build custom bracketry and piping for > > the Rotrex and actually install it on a vehicle only to find that > > the compressor maps purported by the manufacturer were "mostly > > a fantasy". In short, the Rotrex made a great HEAT GUN, but > > a rather poor air compressor if you wanted COOL compressed air. > > > > It's efficiency (that's the amount of pressure increase due to > > actual density increase, versus the amount of pressure increase > > that is due to temperature increase) is quite low at the speeds > > and pressure ratios needed by a 3-3.2 BMW engine. > > > > The use of an intercooler in this case is strictly a bandaid. > > > > I'd suggest waiting for one of the multiple "fixed displacement" > > forced induction kits that are coming out this spring. > > > > Jim > >
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#7. lifetime? - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 10:26:07 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: lifetime? I probably couldn't agree with you less Mike. I do understand the economics of tools and do find a lot of the Snap-On stuff overpriced, but you don't have to buy it all at retail. Matter of fact, much of it can be found for 50% to 90% of retail for like new or lightly used stuff. I just bought a like new tap and die set for 26% of retail. This set makes all other tap and die sets I have seen look like Little Tikes stuff in comparison. Also, Snap-On has the nicest range of tools I have ever seen. No one can match their breadth of offering. The stuff from Mac is not bad but Matco is not good IMO. SK is alright for the money and Facom is pretty nice. One of my favorite ratchets is a 3/8" Craftsman Thin Profile Ratchet. It is very nice and complements the 6-7 Snap-On ratchets I have. My favorite torque wrench is the new electronic one from Snap-On (first saw one at Brett Anderson's garage). Snap-On swivel (flexockets) are great (both impact and hand) as are all their sockets and ratchets. Lastly, and most importantly, if you have ever used other sockets or wrenches other than the Flank Drive stuff from Snap-On and compared them to it, you would see a difference. Round off a couple of fasteners with the competitors and you will see. Also, I am not claiming everything made by Snap-On (or rebranded by Snap-On) is the best, especially for the money, but certain items are worth every penny like the ratchets, sockets, wrenches, etc. Some stuff is just rebranded and overpriced. Regards, Rich - has Snap-On tools mainly with a smattering of Craftsman and Facom, everything else was sold off, nothing was bought at retail except the Craftsman.
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#8. warranty question - from Hunt Hodgetts
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Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 10:12:41 -0800 (PST) From: Hunt Hodgetts <hhodgetts@yahoo.com> Subject: warranty question In addition to my 99 M3, I have a 99 323 with 65k miles. The driver's seat belt is no longer retracting. Is BMW required to provide an additional warranty on seatbelts? or does the 4yr/50k mile warranty apply? Hunt 99 M3 Atlanta __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com
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#9. RE: [E36M3] warranty question - from Doug Wirth
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Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 10:31:06 -0800 From: Doug Wirth <DWirth@SERENA.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] warranty question I just had the seatbelt buckle go out on my 99. part was $100 and they wanted $150 to install it. they would not cover it as I am 4k over my 50k. I did the install myself. in about 1 hour. Doug Wirth *********************************************************************** This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. ***********************************************************************
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#10. Please help me choose a daily driver - from Jon Phillips
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Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 10:49:30 -0800 From: jon@maximumpc.com (Jon Phillips) Subject: Please help me choose a daily driver OK, gang, I know this doesn't directly apply to E36 M3s, but I trust the opinions on this list more than any other source. Long story short, I'm tired of the harshness of my M3 for daily driving, and I want to reduce my yearly M3 milage. The M3 will be saved for weekends, track days, and bursts of inspiration. I have about $10,000 to spend. I want a relatively soft ride (compared to the M3), decent power, and above all else, a cabin free from all the squeaks, rattles and groans suffered by my E36. Looking at both new and used. Any suggestions? Would I be completely insane to buy something like a new Hyundai? And as for used cars, what's the book on build-quality for interiors? Between Mercedes, Audi and Lexus, does any single marquee have a notable track record for interiors that survive the years? Thanks for bearing with me on this tangent...