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#1. Re: Wiper blade refills? - from Zachary Eyler-Walker
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Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 13:09:30 -0500 (EST) From: Zachary Eyler-Walker <zwalker@cs.utk.edu> Subject: Re: Wiper blade refills? On Tue, 28 Jan 2003, Dorffer, Rich wrote: > >>>> I posted this to the E36M3 list back in November 2002: > I know we had a lot of discussion regarding the availability of Bosch > wiper refills. I looked into this and found the same thing, limited > availability and no availability locally. One person pointed out Parts > America (i.e., Advance Auto Parts) and I found they had them according > to their on-line website (none in their local stores at all) but their > shipping was exorbitant (like $14 for a few sets of refills). > > Anyway, I found that World Wide Auto Parts (http://www.nosimport.com) at > 800-362-1025 had them and the pricing was as follows per pair of > refills: > > WWAP Parts America > > Bosch 43321 $7.78 $8.99 > Bosch 43320 $6.39 $6.99 Thanks for the repost, Rich. I was still secretly holding out hope for a local source, but no dice. I picked up several sets from WWAP and with any luck they'll be here monday. The price has gone up 20c or so -- no big deal, and it was nice and easy once I called them. Think I got stalled on their less than helpful website, last time I checked. Cheers, Zach
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#2. bleeder - from James Clay
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Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 13:49:40 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: bleeder 7mm box end. Does your old tool rhyme with "mice trip"? James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
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#3. Bleeder Valve Tools Specs - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 14:20:45 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Bleeder Valve Tools Specs Any 7mm closed end wrench will work and I used to use a Snap-On midget 7mm closed ended wrench. But, I stopped at the bank for a loan and bought a Snap-On Offset 6 Point Bleeder Wrench S6143 (7mm on one end and 9mm on the other). Here is a link to the tool at Snap-On: http://tinyurl.com/55xb Anyway, this tool works best as it is a 6 point (so it grips the bleeder nipple best) and it is properly offset to allow a good range of movement. Regards, Rich
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#4. Changing antifreeze - from Carey Probst
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Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 14:44:04 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: Changing antifreeze Decided it's time to change the antifreeze (I know, should have done it when it was warm, but....) Is there a trick to getting at the engine drain plug? The oxygen sensor blocks a socket and I couldn't reach with an open end. Any reason I can't drain while the front is on ramps? The plus is at the rear of the engine. As usual, TIA. Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed.
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#5.Comparison: E36M3 vs 2001 Z06 Opinions - from Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com
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Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 15:45:17 -0500 From: Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com Subject: <uuc> Comparison: E36M3 vs 2001 Z06 Opinions I was wondering if anyone had any experience with a '01 Z06 and an E36M3. I currently have a '98 M3, but was looking to supplement it with a 2001 Z06. I have an older, heavily modified '80 Turbo Trans Am, so I'm into the muscle car thing, and I thought this might be an excellent modern replacement. Anyways, I was just looking for opinions from those that own one (Z06) or have driven one, and what they thought. I'm a bit worried about quality, durability, GM service... (If anyone could run a VIN on carfax, that would be great too.) Thanks, Colin '98 M3 (JC intake + software, X-brace, Dinan suspension, Euro rotors...) '80 Turbo Trans Am (4.9L bored 0.030" over, 14 psi of boost, big brakes, full suspension...) '01 Z06 ????
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#6. Re: Aluminum Racing Jack - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 17:35:39 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Aluminum Racing Jack on 1/31/03 12:53 PM, "Patrick Dargan" <darg01@earthlink.net> wrote: > Does anyone have a recommend brand and source for one of these? Several of us have been using the low cost aluminum racing jack sold by Harbor Freight for $199. It's very functional, and obviously a lot more affordable than the traditional $600-800 racing jacks. However it's probably not as strong. > It was so hot last summer, that when changing my tires, the jack sunk into > the asphalt and the carrier bent. Note that a racing jack may well do the same, and if so the HF unit would almost certainly break, as in "snap in pieces" rather than just bending. Some people use a sheet of plywood to spread the load when jacking on a less than ideally firm surface. However plywood tends to split, and the jack wheels dig into it. A friend of mine came up with a much better solution: a sheet of galvanized steel - maybe 30 thous thick? I haven't measured - large enough to provide an area for the jack to rest on. I've used it many times, and it works a treat. Neil 96 M3
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Horrible Vendor Alert - from Dave
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Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 17:39:43 -0500 From: "Dave" <bmwracefan@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Horrible Vendor Alert On Thu, 30 Jan 2003 "James Clay" james@bimmerworld.com wrote: Not real fun to deal with, but I have a good suggestion. I see a lot of people hunting for the best possible deal on parts while = not really considering the customer service that goes with it. I see a = trend in the industry for cheap mail-order houses that stock a wide range of = parts, some good, some trash. Can you really expect someone who sells all = kinds of import parts to know or really care what works on your specific = car unless their computer tells them (sometimes incorrectly)? These = guys make commission on volume, not service quality or return customer = percentages. When you chase cost, you open yourself up to this. How about buying from a vendor who knows the car inside out, has a = wealth of personal experience with the car, and cares about your = business? We bend over backward, even if it sometimes costs money, to = make sure our customers are satisfied with a sale. I can honestly count = on one hand the number of problems I have had that we couldn't resolve = in the duration of our business. This isn't a buy-from-us email either. I know all of the sponsors on = the list personally and I know they conduct business with their customers in = the same way, plus they care enough about this list to get involved on it. Outside of list sponsors, there are other enthusiast-owned companies - = the ones that are actually designing parts for the cars, racing the cars, = etc (throwing a name on someone else's car doesn't count usually). These = are the companies that care about how your car performs and whether the part they sell is honestly going to work correctly or give you the desired effect. And often, the prices are very similar to the cut-rate = businesses. Just my opinion from having seen the industry from both sides. James Clay _________________________________________________________ I want to go on record that Bimmer World has helped my nephew and myself = more than ANY reseller. Not to mention how much time James and his guys = spend on helping the BMW racers at the track. Their prices have been as = good as anyones. PLEASE support the people that help BMW racers and = track junkies. =20 No affiliation!=20 Dave & Justen @ Team No Money
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#8. Re: electronic fan controls - from John Pease
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Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 14:41:48 -0800 (PST) From: John Pease <john_pease123@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: electronic fan controls Neil wrote in response to my post about electronic fan controls: >Technically this is obviously feasible. Oh yea it is so obviously feasible, I'm looking for the slightest justification. >The problem is not just the cost, but whether the potential benefit >justifies it. Assuming the fan is correctly sized for max demand in >each >case there would be no peak consumption savings. Yup, can't do it without some economic and perfbenefit benifit. The economics suck ($100 vs $10) and so far, I only see marginal benefit: A huge fan could be current limited to avoid over-taxing the electrical system. Proportional control only demands fan power as needed which gives longer fan life, less wasted power, and lower fan noise. From a rational perspective there isn't much reason to build such a product. But it would be a truly Gucci fan control and some (but how many??) motor-heads like me would probably spend the money for such a neat toy. This controller could also drive transmission and differential fluid pumps. >There's also another way of getting to the same place. There's an >Australian >company that makes an electric coolant pump with variable speed >controller. >This substitutes for both the water pump and coolant thermostat, >varying >coolant flow to maintain temperature. Neil, do you have their link? Thanks John Pease 02 Z06 82 Toyota PUT drive-train 95 m3 drivetrain SOLD! 74 Tii SOLD! __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com
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#9. Electric fans - from David Hogg
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Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 17:41:38 -0500 From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> Subject: Electric fans This thread has rolled on for some time now, and I understand the instinct to innovate, but really the stock auxiliary plastic fan is great by itself. Stock class E36 M3 Club Racers run without the mechanical fan. Josh sells a tidy conversion kit that comes with a lower-temp thermostat (I think from the E30 M3?) and a nice cap to dress it off and protect the threads after the fan and clutch are removed. If it can keep the motor cool running during a red flag condition for 15 minutes after being fully lathered up on the track (which it can), I foresee no problems with it for road use except in possibly the most extreme heat conditions, when you might have to turn off the a/c sometimes (track cars don't have that "problem"), or if the intake is pressurized. So, why reinvent the wheel here? Just asking. Dave Hogg
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#10. E36 Vibration - from Go, Jeffrey
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Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 23:50:44 +0100 From: "Go, Jeffrey" <jeffrey.go@sap.com> Subject: E36 Vibration Hi gruppe I have a 1996 M3...recently replaced Cat converter.. then started having vibration issues in early AM startup.. repair shop then replaced the cat converter again...and still having issues.. it goes away after a few mins of driving.. could it be driveshaft? thanks jeff ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************