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#1. Contour Wheels? - from Nancy Fluharty
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Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 19:55:42 -0500 From: "Nancy Fluharty" <fluhar@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Contour Wheels? Trying to determine if I have the real thing or a replica. My wheels have no BMW stampings or anything that looks like a BMW part number. On the backside are size/offset information, "Kontour," and "Made in Italy." On the front (outside) is a small logo of stylized interlocked letters which might or might not be JWL. Real or pretend? If they are replicas, can anyone comment on their quality? Bob Fluharty 95 M3 87 325is Cincinnati
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Contour Wheels? - from Lee E. Piccione
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Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 00:10:56 -0500 From: "Lee E. Piccione" <leepic@smart.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Contour Wheels? Sounds like a set of AT Italia Type-V. I have a set, I like them... Lee '93 M3 Violet Nancy Fluharty wrote: > Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 19:55:42 -0500 > From: "Nancy Fluharty" <fluhar@worldnet.att.net> > Subject: Contour Wheels? > > Trying to determine if I have the real thing or a replica. My wheels have no > BMW stampings or anything that looks like a BMW part number. On the backside > are size/offset information, "Kontour," and "Made in Italy." On the front > (outside) is a small logo of stylized interlocked letters which might or > might not be JWL. > > Real or pretend? If they are replicas, can anyone comment on their quality? > > Bob Fluharty > 95 M3 > 87 325is > Cincinnati > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > *************************************************
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#3. Re: oil starvation question - from James Clay
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Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 11:27:47 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: oil starvation question The oil pres warning light means REALLY low pressure (6 psi?), not good. Check oil level, should be a the top line for a street car, we fill track cars about 1/2 qt higher. If you are still having starvation, I have one more LTW oilpan FS. James James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
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#4. Re: oil starvation question - from shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com
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Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 15:13:02 -0500 From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com Subject: Re: oil starvation question > There are some interstate exit ramps that form a loop > that I have been taking at high speeds. During the > turn, I consistently get the "low oil" light. This > situation normally occurs for 10-15 seconds during the > turn. > > I have heard about the oil starvation issue and was > wondering if the 10-15 seconds is sufficient to damage > the engine? > > Is there a fix to the problem? Before you go into a panic do two things: 1. Check your oil level, and if that is not the problem 2. Replace the oil pressure sender. If the problem persists you need to look at the oil pump, but they usually go all at once and pressure will drop to zero. Always check the easy stuff before assuming it is something big. Shane K. This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited.
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#5. Re: [E36M3] RD Rear Sway Bar rod ends - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 15:36:41 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] RD Rear Sway Bar rod ends In a message dated 2/15/03 6:26:52 PM Eastern Standard Time, KLchmn@aol.com writes: > I think I might have a rod end on my RD rear sway bar going bad (i.e., > click/click). > Hi Kirk, Are you talking about the end links? I've had a click, click sound that occurs over small bumps. Large bumps cause the usual 'solid' sound. I have Eibach sways and end links. A short time after installing Koni DAs this pass fall, the sound is there. I also use the JTD RSMs and a Dinan rear brace with the reinforcement plates. All of this hardware appears rock solid. These little sounds, drive me crazy. If the radio is on -- no problem, but sometimes I just want to listen to the engine growl ;-)) Did you replace the links yet? If so, did this do the job? TIA, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion '97 & '00 BSP Champion '01 & '02
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#6. Interior question - from Lee E. Piccione
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Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 08:26:35 -0500 From: "Lee E. Piccione" <leepic@smart.net> Subject: Interior question Does anyone know how to remove the interior threshold plate (w/o breaking it) at the bottom of the door that holds the floor carpet? Thanks, Lee '95 M3 Violet
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Interior question - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 05:42:03 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Interior question You have to remove the rear-most section from this circular clip. Once you do that, you have to pull the whole piece backwards to remove it from the clips holding it down. If you break any of the clips, they are a bitch to replace. You'd need to clamp down on them lengthwise and pull, pull, pull! You might even deform the sheet metal a bit. Chester --- "Lee E. Piccione" <leepic@smart.net> wrote: > Does anyone know how to remove the interior threshold plate (w/o > breaking it) at the bottom > of the door that holds the floor carpet? =====
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#8. rear brakes - curse this rotor! - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 10:36:15 -0500 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: rear brakes - curse this rotor! Hey guys, I've done the front brakes (pads and rotors) on my M3 before, around 80k miles. Well, I'm at 131k miles now and the rears are about shot, so I put the car up in the air last night to tackle the rear pads and rotors. After removing the wheel, pads, caliper and rotor retaining screw, I tried pulling the rotor off. No dice. I tried hitting it several times on the front of the rotor surface with a soft-faced mallet. I tried hitting it a little harder from the back side where the caliper used to be, no dice. I took a framing hammer (metal face) and got a little more friendly with it, and it's still not budging. The parking brake is off and I can spin the hub/rotor, I just can't remove the damn thing. Are there any tricks to this, or is it just a matter of getting rough and showing it who's boss? More often than not, this approach tends to result in a bigger job than I planned for. I wish BMW provided a threaded hole in the hat of the rotor like some other cars do, so I could thread a bolt in there to break the rotor free. One additional question I had concerns the brake pad wear sensor, which I must replace. I traced the wire back to unplug the connector, only to follow the wire into a dirt-encrusted plastic box. I haven't spent the time to clean it up to figure out how to open it up yet, but since I'm posting, does this just pry open with a small flathead screwdriver? - Chris
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#9. Re: [E36M3] rear brakes - curse this rotor! - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 08:03:46 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear brakes - curse this rotor! Something that worked for me on the fronts. Put the wheel back on there and tighten the lugs hand tight. Now loosen all of them about a half turn. Drive the car forward and backward and jam on the brakes. With a little slop in the lugs, this will break the rotor loose. Jay At 09:43 AM 2/18/03 -0600, you wrote: >Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 10:36:15 -0500 >From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> >Subject: rear brakes - curse this rotor! > >Hey guys, > >I've done the front brakes (pads and rotors) on my M3 before, around 80k >miles. Well, I'm at 131k miles now and the rears are about shot, so I put >the car up in the air last night to tackle the rear pads and rotors. After >removing the wheel, pads, caliper and rotor retaining screw, I tried >pulling the rotor off. No dice. I tried hitting it several times on the >front of the rotor surface with a soft-faced mallet. I tried hitting it a >little harder from the back side where the caliper used to be, no dice. I >took a framing hammer (metal face) and got a little more friendly with it, >and it's still not budging. The parking brake is off and I can spin the >hub/rotor, I just can't remove the damn thing. Are there any tricks to >this, or is it just a matter of getting rough and showing it who's >boss? More often than not, this approach tends to result in a bigger job >than I planned for. I wish BMW provided a threaded hole in the hat of the >rotor like some other cars do, so I could thread a bolt in there to break >the rotor free. > >One additional question I had concerns the brake pad wear sensor, which I >must replace. I traced the wire back to unplug the connector, only to >follow the wire into a dirt-encrusted plastic box. I haven't spent the >time to clean it up to figure out how to open it up yet, but since I'm >posting, does this just pry open with a small flathead screwdriver? > > - Chris > > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > >
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#10. E36M3 Instrument Cluster Troubleshooting - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 11:31:49 -0600 From: "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@fotofab.com> Subject: E36M3 Instrument Cluster Troubleshooting Hi all, I am having a problem with my instrument panel on my 95 M3 that I would like your advice on. The symptoms are fairly random in frequency but repetitive in nature: The tachometer and coolant temp gauges don't work. Sometimes they begin working after a short period of driving, other times not. Sometimes, I'll start the car and they don't work so I'll shut it down and start it again and then they'll work, other times not. I have run the instrument cluster self-test and all of the gauges sweep through their entire range of operation. This past weekend, I removed the cluster, disassembled it, cleaned all of the contacts and leads with Stabilant 22 and re-assembled, re-installed it all for nothing. The syptoms are exactly the same, no tach or coolant temp. I am thinking that there are three possible causes: 1. Defective instrument cluster main circuit board or connector. 2. Flaky cables or connectors between sensors and cluster 3. Flaky sensors Anyone BTDT on this problem? What worked what didn't? Anyone know of a source that can diagnose/repair faulty instument clusters? BTW, thanks to all who contributed to the Drei Bond thread, I ended up going with some High Tack gasket sealant from Autozone (-65 to 500 degrees F, non-drying and Oil/gasoline repellent). One of the easier jobs that I have tackled on this car. Many regards Jamie Howton 2002 330i 5 Spd Steel Blue Metallic SP 1995 M3 5 Spd Arctic Silver 1979 Porsche 928 5 Speed Opalmetallic