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#1. Re: [E36M3] EWS and 506 vs 413 questions - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 01:14:55 -0500 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] EWS and 506 vs 413 questions At 09:34 PM 2/23/2003 -0600, DocWyte wrote: >Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 11:56:02 -0800 (PST) >From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> >Subject: EWS and 506 vs 413 questions > >Hi, > >What's this EWS I've been hearing about? I have a >8/95 M3 with the 413 dme. Do I have EWS? How can I >tell? EWS is BMW-speak for driveaway protection. All M3s produced 1/95 and after have EWS although even then there are different versions. >Could I swap out my 413 dme for a 506 dme with no >other changes? No, but you could by cutting the wire to the EWS module in the wiring harness. Not much point in doing so as either DME is going to cost approximately the same amount for replacement. Geof
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#2. Neil's bonnet - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 01:20:19 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Neil's bonnet Neil, Did you ever figure out how to get your hood open? My hood release is getting more stubborn (especially in cold weather) to open. I'm curious to know what I might have to do. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, TX - temps in the 30's
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Ferodo Brake Pad Question - from Rob Birkhead
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Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 23:40:30 -0800 From: Rob Birkhead <rbirkz@earthlink.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Ferodo Brake Pad Question Tom, Ok, the disclaimer is that I sell brake pads for a living. (But I don't make more money on one line than the other so I just sell what works.) Having said that, I love the DS3000 on the M3. I have used them for my last several events and find them to be a definite step above the PF90/97. Their friction level is a bit higher (.62) and the torque curve is really flat. Really really flat. That is what makes them special. No matter how easy or hard the braking zone was in the last corner you know what the pedal is going to feel like when you hit it in the next one. That is my biggest beef with the Hawks, that have really progressive torque curves, each corner can be a slightly different braking experience. I am sure you will find them a nice upgrade from the PFs. Don't get me wrong the PF97 are nice pads but the DS3000 are something to experience. Let me know if you have any specific questions I can answer. Rob Birkhead | Principal MPact Motorsports rob@mpactmotorsports.com -----Original Message----- From: Tom Tice [mailto:tetice@triad.rr.com] Sent: Sunday, February 23, 2003 8:44 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Ferodo Brake Pad Question Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 23:52:55 -0800 From: "Tom Tice" <tetice@triad.rr.com> Subject: Ferodo Brake Pad Question I let someone talk me into trying Ferodo DS3000 brake pads for the track. They didn't arrive in time for my last track event in December so I squeaked by with my old PF97s for the event - but now I've got to decide if I'm really going to give these a try. Anybody have experience with the DS3000s? I'm used to running Performance Friction (PF90, PF93, PF97 and maybe even PF83s). I really had no motivation to switch from PFs (other than a ruined set of wheels due to the dust which mixed with a hard rain and created a super crud epoxied to the wheels - but that's another story). TIA, Tom Tice '98 M3/4 '99 540/6 '02 325iT/5 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Setting Up My M3 for OTC (long) - from Ron Katona
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Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 06:28:56 -0500 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Setting Up My M3 for OTC (long) I agree to a point. I'd probably just slap a blower kit on it as well and forget it, but keep in mind the TEC3 will enhance a blower too. As I said, Vic's got a 400 hp M3 running around using the TEC3 in addition to a blower. Vic will ship it with baseline maps - just tune the ones that matter to you most. It is expensive, but if you want to go totally custom it's really the only way to go. Even the best chips are limited to a certain set of mods. The beauty of any aftermarket engine management module is that you can tune it in conjunction with any combination of mods you want and you can change and experiment with those mods until you've reached the power you want, or emptied your wallet. You want a blower, cams, injectors, no downstream fuel pressure regulator... where else are you going to get that kind of flexibility? There's no doubt you can get significantly more power this way than with an off the shelf chip package. Now is it cheap hp/dollar? Nope... but that's why it's a "how fast do you want to go" option. If he really wants to compete with 500 hp Supras, he needs something more than what's available off the shelf. It all comes down to $$. -- Ron Katona DocWyte wrote: > > I just can't see spending the $3k to go to a TEC3, > especially with the tuning time needed to thoroughly > iron out the maps (ture idling, cold start, hot start, > part throttle etc) when with a '95 M3, numerous eprom > chip programs are available... > > that $3k would go alot farther powerwise with a > blower... > > -josh > > --- Ron Katona <rkatona@cox.net> wrote: > > Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 23:06:24 -0500 > > From: Ron Katona <rkatona@cox.net> > > Subject: Re: Setting Up My M3 for OTC (long) > > > > > Any other ideas out in M3-land? Dinan blowers and > > > Euro motors _are_ legal in class. ;-) > > > > It's the old "how fast do you want to go - how much > > money do you have" > > thing, but a TEC3 would help. Vic Sias has this down > > to as close to a > > plug and play solution as possible with the TEC3 > > plugging directly into > > the existing harness. There are a couple sensors to > > change, but it's > > pretty basic stuff. You'll have to find someone who > > can tune it and pay > > for the dyno time. Jim Ochi's Street Mod autocrosser > > was making 260 hp > > at the rear wheels with a naturally aspirated 3.2 > > and a TEC3 setup. > > Other than that, a blower is an obvious choice. Vic > > has a 400hp > > blown/TEC3'd 3.2 running around as well... that's > > about 340 rear wheel > > hp! You don't have to be down on power if you've got > > the cash. > > -- > > Ron Katona
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#5. RE: Track pipe with OEM Muffler? - from Wesley A. Nicolas
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Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 05:21:46 -0800 (PST) From: "Wesley A. Nicolas" <wes@nicolas.org> Subject: RE: Track pipe with OEM Muffler? I have the AA Track pipe with OEM Muffler on my 1995 M3. The sound barely increased but I do get an improvement in power and TQ (at least by my seat of the pants). Also, my VANOS was fixed (I think it was broken since I bought the car over a year ago) so that may have something to do with it. However, I feel an increase below 3,500 RPM so that is before the VANOS kicks in. Good luck! Wes '95 M3 >Has anyone installed an AA Track Pipe with the OEM M3 >Muffler? Would it be correct to assume that I would see >approx. the same amount of TQ and HP gains with the track >pipe alone?
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#6. K-mac camber plates - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 09:00:21 -0800 From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: K-mac camber plates No, the k-macs do not raise the car. Pure Urban Legend. I've measured the stack heights and they are exactly the same. It's possible that the 325i K-Macs do, but I've never seen a set. FYI, there are three K-Mac plates that fit the M3. 1. 325i plate. This was the first, and is characterized by a perfectly centered strut bearing. These aren't great, you get a max of about 2 degrees of negative camber (at stock height) and about 5-6 degrees of caster. 2. Series 1 M3 plate. This has 95 M3 Geometry, with strut bearing offset to the middle of the car. You can get 3 degrees of camber at stock height and about -4 lowered. (this is my setup) Disadvantage is that you have limited caster adjustment, something around 5.5 degrees is the maximum, if you have 96+ geometry arms and control arm bushings. I have offset bushings and get 6.5 degrees, which is close enough. 3. Series II M3 plate. These plates have 96+ geometry, the strut bearing is offset to the inside and to the rear of the car, to give more caster and camber. Probably don't want to run offset bushings and 96+ arms with these guys. (well, you just don't have to) -kit
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#7. Re: Setting Up My M3 for OTC (long) - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 09:02:24 -0800 From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Setting Up My M3 for OTC (long) > Vic has a 400hp blown/TEC3'd 3.2 running around as well... > that's about 340 rear wheel hp! You don't have to be down on > power if you've got the cash. Actually... it's 406 at the rear wheels. Jeff Rosen's car. Pretty incredible, it has an RMS stage II kit, 10psi, 8 rib pulley, after cooler, full Euro supersprint exhaust, Schrick Manifold, etc. -kit
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#8. M3 camber w/stock plates and shims - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 09:23:32 -0800 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: M3 camber w/stock plates and shims Hi All. Just to let you know ... I've been in search for more front camber since I made a big leap in my driving style and found that I was obliterating the outside edges of my RA-1s despite around 2.5 degrees of front camber. I now have 3.3 degrees of front camber. Hopefully that will improve wear, turn-in and overall front grip. This is all with a completely stock '95 E36 M3 LWT suspension. Oh, and I have those BMW front-strut-housing reinforcement plates (the ones that install from underneath the car to prevent the strut hats from tearing out), too. They add about 1/16" to the strut assembly height. I did this by using the '96+ hats, swapped L<->R, and rotated 120 degrees for maximum camber. This results in pretty minimal (around 2 degrees, IIRC) front caster, but it's camber that I really need. The front struts also have some ground hardened washers I modified (now around 1/8" thick, sized slightly differently on each side to even things out nicely) to round out the camber settings. -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Re: Setting Up My M3 for OTC (long) - from Jason Knight
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Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 10:15:06 -0800 (PST) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Setting Up My M3 for OTC (long) I'm guessing that the use of the term blower means some sort of forced induction, in which case I believe they would be upclassed to T1/U1, unless there is some special scenario or dispensation that I'm not aware of / privy to. Speaking of which, how is an e36 328i in T4/U4, but an E36 M3 is in T2/U2? I'm sure there is some logic, I just can't see it. Jason P.S. Whenever I hear blower I picture a 70s American muscle car with a big thing sticking out of the hood, then I try to translate that to an M3, but it just doesn't seem to fit. --- Ron Katona <rkatona@cox.net> wrote: > Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 06:28:56 -0500 > From: Ron Katona <rkatona@cox.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Setting Up My M3 for OTC > (long) > > I agree to a point. I'd probably just slap a blower > kit on it as well > and forget it, but keep in mind the TEC3 will > enhance a blower too. ____________________- > > > > Any other ideas out in M3-land? Dinan blowers > and > > > > Euro motors _are_ legal in class. ;-) __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, more http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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#10. Battery Advice - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 13:35:56 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Battery Advice Neil says > > Jeez, Mo! Did that price include the K-Y jelly? <vbg> > I only paid $75 for my MTP-91. I concur, I paid about $75 - $80 for both of mine at the distributor. List price is $116 and suggested retail is $96 so you should find it for suggested retail or less. Go here to find distributors in your area (http://www.ibsa.com/estore/dealer_locator.asp). > BTW, for anyone else contemplating this battery, don't get confused and buy > the MT-91. The extra letter 'P' indicates the reversed position of the > positive terminal, necessary for our cars. Not too often I get to correct Neil :-) The "P" stand for "Plus" as in Mega-Tron Plus. There is an MTP-91 and there used to be a regular MT-91. The MTP-91 has 875 CA and 700 CCA and a 72 month warranty while the regular MT-91 had less amps (I think it was something like 700 CA and 600 CCA) and a shorter warranty (like 60 months or something like that). I don't think they even offer the MT-91 anymore. The MT-91 was just a few dollars less back in 2000 when I bought my first one. The second time, I just went in and bought the MTP-91 since it was a no-brainer for the few extra dollars. I believe they only have one type of top posts for these batteries. Regards, Rich