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#1. Strut reinforcement plates - from RonStygar@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 19:10:29 EST From: RonStygar@aol.com Subject: Strut reinforcement plates Plates 31 31 2 489 795 $4.85 retail each Gaskets 31 33 1 094 288 $3.35 retail each Connect to Dales Image page: www.unofficialbmw.com/images/ and check out pics shocked-1 > 3.jpg
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#2. Stock M3 spring rates - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 19:19:33 -0500 From: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> Subject: Stock M3 spring rates I know this has been discussed many times on the list, but when looking through my archives, I found about 10 different answers. I'm curious about the stock springs on a 1995 and 1996-1999 E36 M3 - what type and what rate they are. I've heard claims they are progressive, I've heard claims they are actually linear even though they appear progressive, I've heard spring rates that vary wildly. Ben Liaw's analysis using a spring testing machine (http://www.bmw-m.net/techdata/spring.htm) seems to indicate that they are linear (am I reading that correctly?) and about 87-98 #/in front and 210-240 #/in rear. Previously, I've heard 115-135# front and 335-350# rear. Is there a concensous on this anywhere? I'm not asking just for idle curiousity or to stir up another debate, but because I'm trying another suspension baseline setup on my 98 M3 and I wanted to know the stock rates and F/R ratio. Thanks, Vern Anderson 98 M3/2
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#3. Looking for magazine articles about '95 M3 - from DocWyte
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Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 16:28:11 -0800 (PST) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Looking for magazine articles about '95 M3 Hey all, I'm trying to find old magazine articles about the '95 M3. If anyone has the Car and Driver from April '95, and the earlier one which they actually did their first feature on the '95 M3, as well as the corresponding Road and Track articles from '95, I'd definately be interested in buying them... BTW, you can access and read most of the Car and Driver M3 articles on their website. Goes back to April '95, but not far enough back for their first feature on the M3. The Road and Track website only goes back far enough to cover the E46 M3. TIA! -josh ===== Josh Wyte Momentum Motorsports 508-833-3024 After 5 pm EST __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, more http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Strut reinforcement plates - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 20:05:18 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Strut reinforcement plates RonStygar@aol.com writes: > Plates 31 31 2 489 795 $4.85 retail each > Gaskets 31 33 1 094 288 $3.35 retail each > If you ever buy a set of strut plates/gaskets, you will be very disgusted. Those "gaskets" must have an 80,000% mark up! They are nothing but thin paper rings. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 - $7 paper rings BMW CCA #131505
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Idle hunts when coming to a stop... - from Dan Bocek
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Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 17:07:20 -0800 From: Dan Bocek <dan@rasy.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Idle hunts when coming to a stop... From what I understand of this problem, it only happens to 95's. Anybody with a 96+ care to comment? My theory, cobbled from experiences with my car (a 96) and Jim Conforti wisdom, is that BMW blew it when they designed the idle feedback loop. There's basically a bug in the code. The loop only uses the idle air bypass valve below 1.4 MPH. When this kicks in, the car idles fine. Above that speed, such as when you're coasting to a stop with the clutch in, the car runs closed loop around the O2 sensor. This is normally not a problem, assuming your O2 sensor is in good working order and up to proper operating temperature. The problem rears its head if the loop tries to close either before the sensor gets up to proper temperature, or if the sensor gets old and starts to slow down. My theory is that the gains used in the code to close the loop are too high, causing the feedback loop to oscillate under these circumstances. >I've had this problem on and off since I bought the car, always in the >colder months. FWIW, here's the history. > >With stock chip: did it often in cold weather. > >With Conforti chip (for intake, HFM): never did it. > >With Conforti chip (for intake, HFM, 24# injectors): never did it, but the >car pinged badly. > >With AA custom chip (for intake, HFM, 21.5# injectors, 3.2 headers): did it >occasionally in cold weather. > >Added new gas cap to above set-up (current): stopped immediately but now >does it very occasionally in cold weather. > >My theory: an old gas cap loses its seal when the rubber gets cold, causing >a vacuum leak. It's worth a try anyway. A new gas cap is $4.00, or >thereabouts. > >Craig Perrin >Helrot 95 M3 > > > >on 2/21/03 12:43 PM, E36M3 at e36m3@bmw-m.net wrote: > > > [E36M3] Idle hunts when coming to a stop...
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Idle hunts when coming to a stop... - from Dan Bocek
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Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 17:25:51 -0800 From: Dan Bocek <dan@rasy.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Idle hunts when coming to a stop... Sorry for the double post, but I think the first version of this made it out scrambled... From what I understand of this problem, it only happens to 95's. Anybody with a 96+ care to comment? My theory, cobbled from experiences with my car (a 95) and Jim Conforti wisdom, is that BMW blew it when they designed the idle feedback loop. There's basically a bug in the code. The loop only uses the idle air bypass valve below 1.4 MPH. When this kicks in, the car idles fine. Above that speed, such as when you're coasting to a stop with the clutch in, the car runs closed loop around the O2 sensor. This is normally not a problem, assuming your O2 sensor is in good working order and up to proper operating temperature. The problem rears its head if the loop tries to close either before the sensor gets up to proper temperature, or if the sensor gets old and starts to slow down. My theory is that the gains used in the code to close the loop are too high, causing the feedback loop to oscillate under these circumstances. On my car at least, the idle hunting only starts after a few minutes on a cold morning (as if some open loop/closed loop timer has expired, and the ECU starts paying attention to the sensor) but goes away a little while after that, once the sensor warms up and starts responding fast enough to prevent the loop from oscillating. On my car, the hunt is absolutely the worst when I've driven the car so that it's fully warmed up, leave it sit for an hour or two, and then start it up again. Now, the engine has some latent heat in it, so it warms up fast, but the O2 sensor and the exhaust system are at ambient temperature, so the ECU seems to start running closed loop a lot sooner that it would if the car were started from dead cool. What do you all think? Any of this jive with your personal experiences, or is there just something flat out broken in my car? -Dan Bocek-
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Idle hunts when coming to a stop... - from Zack Steinkamp
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Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 17:35:35 -0800 (PST) From: Zack Steinkamp <edsarkiss@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Idle hunts when coming to a stop... why hold the clutch in while coasting to a stop? when i know i have to stop, i push in the clutch, put it in neutral, and let the clutch out. seems that holding it in would just wear the TO bearing. in stop-and-go traffic, i play the "try to hold a constant speed" game, and have the clutch engaged unless i am shifting to another gear or to neutral. what situation am i missing here where you would need to hold the clutch pedal down? zs --- Dan Bocek <dan@rasy.com> wrote: > Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 17:07:20 -0800 > From: Dan Bocek <dan@rasy.com> > only uses the idle air bypass valve below 1.4 MPH. > When this kicks in, the > car idles fine. Above that speed, such as when > you're coasting to a stop > with the clutch in, the car runs closed loop around > the O2 sensor. __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, more http://taxes.yahoo.com/
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Idle hunts when coming to a stop... - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 17:53:07 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Idle hunts when coming to a stop... Zack Steinkamp at edsarkiss@yahoo.com wrote: > why hold the clutch in while coasting to a stop? > [snip] > > what situation am i missing here where you would need > to hold the clutch pedal down? Dangerous. What if the guy behind you can't stop in time and you need to get out of the way in a hurry? It's much faster to pop the clutch and stomp on the gas than push the clutch in, shift into gear, etc. - Mark -- mark@pdc-racing.net
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Idle hunts when coming to a stop... - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 21:10:21 -0500 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Idle hunts when coming to a stop... At 07:43 PM 2/24/2003 -0600, Zack Steinkamp wrote: >why hold the clutch in while coasting to a stop? > >when i know i have to stop, i push in the clutch, put >it in neutral, and let the clutch out. seems that >holding it in would just wear the TO bearing. Any time the car is in motion, I feel very uncomfortable about having the transmission in neutral and the clutch out. The only exception to this might be coasting down extremely long downgrades in the mountainous areas here. Once I'm sitting at a light, especially one that just turned red, I'll usually put it in neutral and let the clutch out to save wear on the TO bearing. Of course, by then, the idle has stabilized, which was the original topic of the thread. :) - Chris
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#10. Why am I losing coolant...? - from Juan Rico
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Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 18:36:58 -0800 From: Juan Rico <juan_rico@captionsinc.com> Subject: Why am I losing coolant...? Hi All, So at 150K on my car, I decide to replace the original radiator, water pump (my 3rd one....), fan clutch, thermostat, all associated hoses, etc. The work was done at a top-notch independent BMW garage here in LA. Before replacing everything, my loss of coolant was "zero". I did have a faulty coolant sensor triggering the low coolant warning, but the level was always where it should be. No variation. Well, ever since the work was done, I'm loosing coolant. I need to fill the radiator up with a pint of coolant every 2 to 3 weeks. I can't find any leaks anywhere, so where is the coolant going? There's none on my garage floor, nor in my parking space at work. If it matters, I had a compression test done a couple of weeks ago, and the car passed with flying colors... My oil consumption is normal-1 quart every 5K. And my engine runs cool. Any ideas? Jeez, it seems that whenever I do any work on this car, something goes wrong. ;( Every day I'm more convinced that the more you mess around with something, the more you stand to screw something up. Even if it's just precautionary measures... I swear, from now on I'll replace something ONLY if it breaks... (like my water pumps). Thanks, Juan. 95M3 - Still on original tranny and differential lifetime fluids-NOT touching those...