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#1. 95 M3 DME ? - from RacerxJLing@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 16:47:13 EST From: RacerxJLing@aol.com Subject: 95 M3 DME ? Hello- I am changing out my DME on my 8/95 M3 manual. It does have a RMS chip for a SC. Does it have to be re configured by the BMW dealer?? Thanks Jeff
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#2. 95 3.0L rear seal vs 96+ 3.2L rear seal - from Murray Roblin
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Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 13:57:41 -0800 From: "Murray Roblin" <murray@farleyroblin.com> Subject: 95 3.0L rear seal vs 96+ 3.2L rear seal Guys, Preparing to do clutch and rear crank my 95 M3. I was sorting/checking parts and found that the rear crank seal sent to me by Zygmunt has a part# (11 14 2 249 533) for a 96+ M3, rather than that listed in the ETK for my 95 (11 14 2 245 364). However, the ETK also refers to the -364 pn for the 96+. Both are claimed to be 90x110x12. Do I have the wrong seal? Thanks much, Murray
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#3. RE: Rogue Short Shift Kit - from racebro@santacruzbicycles.com
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Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 13:59:35 -0800 From: <racebro@santacruzbicycles.com> Subject: RE: Rogue Short Shift Kit Gruppe, I just wanted to echo a previous 'listers post about the Rogue Octane SS Kit. I just finished the install, and I can honestly say that as far as fun:dollar ratio, this ranks right up there. It makes the car feel tight-- kinda like driving a race car... You just can't wait to stretch your left leg and grab the next cog! Thanks Ben! Jason Lombard Santa Cruz Bicycles, Inc. (831) 459-7560 x 30 racebro@santacruzbicycles.com http://www.santacruzbicycles.com
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#4. RE: [E36M3] RE: Rogue Short Shift Kit - from Johnny Lee
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Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 17:21:18 -0500 From: Johnny Lee <mclee@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Rogue Short Shift Kit Does anyone know if the WSR can be changed the same time one put in the SS kit? In other words, does one have to go under the car or need to drop the transmission to do it? Thanks, Johnny 1998 M3/4 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Stock M3 spring rates - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 17:16:49 -0500 From: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Stock M3 spring rates Alex, group, I've been running a GC coilover setup with Eibach bars for about three years, with 400# rear springs and 450-500# front springs. Also camber plates, SA then DA Koni's and lots of other misc goodies. I have the car extremely well balanced now, but I have been suffering from too much inside rear wheelspin. My diff is still OK, I just have too much body roll. I can get the car on two wheels way too often autocrossing. In an effort to keep the car well balanced, but reduce the inside wheel lift (F and R), I'm going to go to a stiffer spring/softer swaybar setup. I am probably going to run 500# rears and 550# fronts. I am going to install a smaller (22mm RD vs the 24mm Eibach) rear swaybar and utilize the extensions I added to my front Eibach swaybar to further soften it. Since I was moving away from the basic spring rate setup I've been running for a while and take a new direction, I wanted to revisit the overall setup strategy - look at and verify stock on one end of the extreme and I know what a lot of E36 road racers are running on the other extreme. I still daily drive the car and track it about 20 days/year, but my main concern is autocrossing. My car was extremely good in transitions and slaloms, so I'm going to try to sacrifice a little there and work on cornering and to reduce the wheelspin. I have been running the same basic setup as Bob Tunnnell, but my car is 300 lbs heavier than his (sunroof, rollbar, etc.), so I've been experiencing much more body roll than desired. An increase in spring rate combined with slightly lowering the car should help reduce the body roll without sacrificing too much helpful weight transfer and traction. The weaker bars should reduce the tendency to keep the inside wheel(s) unloaded. Who knows, the experiment may fail and I may end up back where I started, which isn't a horrible place to be. I'm going to try this new setup for the first part of the season and hopefully either sort it out or abandon it by the time most of the National Tours and other big events come around. BTW, does anyone have any 6" long, 2.5" diameter 550# coilover springs for sale? I hate to buy new ones if anyone has used ones they're not using. Thanks, Vern 98 M3/2 guinea pig..... > -----Original Message----- > From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com [mailto:alex.fadeev@verizon.com] > Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2003 2:31 PM > To: Vern Anderson > Cc: E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stock M3 spring rates > > > "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> wrote: > > > > I know this has been discussed many times on the list, but when looking > > through my archives, I found about 10 different answers. I'm curious > > about the stock springs on a 1995 and 1996-1999 E36 M3 - what type and > > what rate they are. I've heard claims they are progressive, I've heard > > claims they are actually linear even though they appear progressive, > I've > > heard spring rates that vary wildly. > > Vern, > Stock M3 springs are most definitely progressive. That is pretty obvious > when you have them in your hands or by observing how unevenly the perches > are compressed on the car. > The trick is measuring the springs rates at static ride height. I forgot > the exact measurements, but the stock springs are significantly > preloaded. > So measuring the resistance during first 2-3 inches of travel is > meaningless since all of that will be taken up by the time the > springs are > installed. Some people content that after you preload stock > springs, their > resistance > > > Ben Liaw's analysis using a spring testing machine > > (http://www.bmw-m.net/techdata/spring.htm) seems to indicate that they > > are linear (am I reading that correctly?) and about 87-98 #/in front > > and 210-240 #/in rear. > > I seam to recall that whomever inherited that machine from Ben complained > that it was badly miscalibrated. Or I could be thinking of another event > altogether. > > > Previously, I've heard 115-135# front and 335-350# rear. Is there a > > concensous on this anywhere? > > I doubt it ;-) > Seriously though, even if you did know the exact stock and aftermarket > spring rates, how would you apply that knowledge? What would be your > formula for custom valving the shocks to match the springs (given rate, > height, etc)? > > > I'm not asking just for idle curiousity or to stir up another debate, > > but because I'm trying another suspension baseline setup on my 98 M3 > > and I wanted to know the stock rates and F/R ratio. Thanks, > > Vern, > What combo are you trying out? > > alex f > '95 M3 with TC Kline's TrackLine kit ++
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#6. Looking for coilover springs - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 17:22:04 -0500 From: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> Subject: Looking for coilover springs Hello everyone, I'm looking for 6" long, 2.5" diameter coilover springs, preferably Eibach, 550#, also perhaps 600# rates. If you have any sitting around, let me know, I'd be interested for the right price. Thanks, Vern Anderson
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Stock M3 spring rates - from kitwetzler@mindspring.com
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Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 17:26:06 -0500 From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stock M3 spring rates Chester said: > Don't mind me...I've been in a meeting with an imbecile with > broken English and bad breath. Not only that, but she has man > hands....MAN HANDS I SAY!! Ugh... Dude, I told you to be more selective about your online dating! when the girl says, "Healthy, with good grasp-ah of Engrish" you know you're in trouble. ;) Chester is right, stock springs are linear rate. H&R sports are progressive as are the coilovers. However, it's arguable how progressive they are in the usable range, though. The softer coils tend to coilbind as soon as you put the car on the ground, which may actually mean that they are essentially linear in the range in which they actually work. I believe this is why H&R claims them to be linear rate. That said, they feel nothing like real linear rate race springs, they take longer to take a set, etc. Alex wrote: > I have a similar setup, with Koni SA's instead of DA's and Eibachs > instead of RD sway bars. My TCK's TrackLine kit came with H&R Sport > (stage 2) front and Race (stage 4) rear springs. You realize of course, that the Koni DAs on the softest setting still are stiffer than the SAs? the ride on one has basically nothing to do with the other. We need to know spring rates, etc if you want to get an idea of how it rides. The trackline kit has 29910 front and 29936 rear springs if i remember correctly. The front is way too soft, the rear is ok, but still too soft for serious track work. (that was one of the iterations my suspension went through) Your suspension setup isn't much like a Trackline DA setup! (it'll come with adjustable height coilovers, with a stiffer linear rate spring) You'd be really surprised at how well really stiff springs ride, especially compared to H&R sports, which don't ride or handle that well. I run 400/450 on the street and they're great. -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .
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#8. Re: [E36M3] RE: Rogue Short Shift Kit - from Rich Beebe
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Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 17:33:59 -0500 From: Rich Beebe <rich@beebecomm.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Rogue Short Shift Kit it would be at the same time (the WSR) and, yes, you need to be under the car. lowering the trans simply makes the job easier. i've done it both ways with my SSKs. rich From: Johnny Lee <mclee@comcast.net> > Does anyone know if the WSR can be changed the same time one put in the SS > kit? In other words, does one have to go under the car or need to drop the > transmission to do it? > > > Thanks, > > Johnny > > 1998 M3/4
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#9. mushy brake pedal - from kitwetzler@mindspring.com
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Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 19:59:28 -0500 From: "kitwetzler@mindspring.com" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: mushy brake pedal I think I'm dealing with a bad master cylinder here. I can bleed my brakes all I want to, but they still get mushy. When I come to a stop I can push the pedal practically into the floorboards. I have bled and bled, and the get better for a few days and then go mushy... when I'm moving they feel less mushy, because the car stops, but the feel is never quite right. I've got new pads, new rotors, properly broken in, I've bled several times with a pressure bleeder and normally. Has anyone here replaced a master cylinder? I know you generally have to bench bleed them, what does that entail? What does changing out the MC entail? Peter G, I think you R&R'd the MC on your wife's car and saw an improvement... that true? Reply to me privately and I'll sum up and post to the list. Thanks all! -kit 97 m3/4 -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .
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#10. Replacing tranny fluid (and wiper refill addendum) - from Zachary Eyler-Walker
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Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 20:10:36 -0500 (EST) From: Zachary Eyler-Walker <zwalker@cs.utk.edu> Subject: Replacing tranny fluid (and wiper refill addendum) > Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 09:32:10 -0800 > From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@attbi.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Tranny & diff Fluids > > At 08:03 AM 2/26/03, Luis Rueda wrote: > >I'm in the process of performing inspection II on my '95 M3 > >& I was wondering how often is it recommended to replace > >the tranny & diff fluids? Every 25K miles? > > About every 30K was the interval, I believe, before BMW went to "lifetime" > fluids. > > Jim Bassett Hmm. On the other hand, I seem to recall a lot of people swearing that if you have Redline or possibly the Royal Purple transmission fluid, you probably need to change it much more often. My car was bought with Redline, and the transmission certainly seems to be feeling notchier and notchier. I don't think I'm an abusive shifter at all, so I am fervently hoping a fluid change will fix me up. I'm at about 40k miles on a '96. The 1->2 and 2->3 shifts are fairly notchy, while the rest are much more reasonable. Anyone have experience that bears on this situation? Thanks, Zach (PS: Got the wiper refills as recently discussed on the list, and the rotten Bosch wiper blade catch that holds it to the wiper arm promptly cracked, necessitating a change of the whole blade, after all. How annoyingly ironic..)
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#11. WTB: DME 95 M3 w/ EWS - from RacerxJLing@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 20:11:02 EST From: RacerxJLing@aol.com Subject: WTB: DME 95 M3 w/ EWS Anyone parting out a 95 M3 w/ EWS?? I need a new DME Know of a good & cheap place to find one? PM w/ any leads. Thanks Jeff 95 M3 (build date 8/95)