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#1. Re: [E36M3] Stainless Brake lines - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 21:02:09 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stainless Brake lines Jim Bassett at jimbassett@attbi.com wrote: >> List, I norked a connection between a brake line and >> the caliper. Since I'm going to be bleeding brakes I >> figure this is the opportunity to change the brake >> lines and go to stainless. Unfortunately, the search >> feature at http://www.bmw-m.net/search.htm is down. >> In my web search I did see mention that some suppliers >> / makers are better than others. Any suggestions on >> what to use, and where to buy. > > Fisher lines from Steve D'G at The Ultimate Garage. Perfect fit, great > service. I have a set on the M3. These are great lines. I had 'em on my old E30 M3 and I've got a set sitting here waiting to go on the new E36 race car. If you want a set from Steve D, get 'em soon. He told me he probably won't be carrying them much longer. - Mark -- mark@pdc-racing.net
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#2. FS: Euro Exhaust Headers - from Jon S.
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Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 00:22:53 -0600 From: "Jon S." <treehouse@comcast.net> Subject: FS: Euro Exhaust Headers Thanks, Jason.. I guess you beat me to it.. I'm Selling the Euro headers: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34203&item =2405360487&rd=1 I modified my E30/M50 conversion car into a concrete wall, so I'm trying to build up some cash to start another project. If you are interested, let me know and I will stop the auction for a reasonable offer. Thanks for the B-width Suz! Jon Siccardi 615.491.4212 > Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 19:14:03 -0800 (PST) > From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] FS Exhaust header bolts > > USe them to bolt this to your car: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2405360487#BID 1 > > Jason
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Replacing tranny fluid (and wiper refill addendum) - from Alan Taur
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Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 23:12:45 -0800 From: "Alan Taur" <alantaur@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Replacing tranny fluid (and wiper refill addendum) > Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 20:35:20 -0500 > From: "mike" <95m3ltw@charter.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Replacing tranny fluid (and wiper refill addendum) > > Try Mobil 1, I did not notice any improvement with Redlind, but did with > Mobil 1, I have noticed an improvement in 2 different M3s > > Mike I second this. I now use Mobil 1 ATF in my Getrag 6-speed exclusively after using various Red Line formulations. Cold shifts are much smoother with Mobil 1, and the performance has stayed very consistent (The Red Line stuff works well for several months, and then goes south very quickly). Again, YMMV. -Alan Taur 95 M3
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Stock M3 spring rates - from Ron Katona
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Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 06:36:45 -0500 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stock M3 spring rates Vern Anderson wrote: > At > Topeka I had major wheelspin problems. Without that, I'm sure I would have > caught Bob.... Yeah right.... I had major wheelspin issues at Topeka as well in the E36 323is I drove in DSP. To make matters worse, it had a Quaife which acts like an open diff when unloaded at one wheel. The grip is so amazing on the rubber impregnated concrete at Topeka that you're basically on two wheels all the time. I'm sure it was costing us 1/2 a second on the south course. We realized we need more rear wheel droop and a softer rear bar on that car (after the event, of course). That's what got me started on thinking about softer bars on my car. I went back to stock bars after I returned from Topeka and ran a few local events like that. > The professional instructor I mentioned says you should tune a car by > getting the springs and shocks where you want them and think of the swaybars > as "trim tabs" on a plane - for tuning, not to supplement spring rates. I'm > looking forward to trying it out..... I agree. I think the main benefit from larger bars is on stock cars where the owner doesn't want to degrade their street ride with extremely stiff springs. Or, in stock classes where spring swaps are illegal. Of course, there are limits to how stiff a spring you can run given the amount of travel you need and the stock geometry, yada, yada... I think you need bars on both ends of an E36, just not as much as most people run once you get up into the 500#+ spring rates. -- Ron Katona
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#5. Re: Stainless Brake lines - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 09:00:41 -0500 From: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Stainless Brake lines I installed Goodridge lines on my 98 M3 and was very impressed with the quality and fit. I was also extremely surprised at the difference in pedal feel at hard braking tracks like BeaveRun and Mid-Ohio. Much better braking feel, more consistent at higher temps. I bleed my brakes every other track event, so it wasn't a bleed issue - the lines did make a difference - I'm a convert. I got my from my local shop, my mechanic got them wholesale directly from Goodridge. I think TireRack sells them also. I've also heard very good things about Fisher (sp?). Vern -------------------- 5 -------------------- Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 18:25:43 -0800 (PST) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: Stainless Brake lines List, I norked a connection between a brake line and the caliper. Since I'm going to be bleeding brakes I figure this is the opportunity to change the brake lines and go to stainless. Unfortunately, the search feature at http://www.bmw-m.net/search.htm is down. In my web search I did see mention that some suppliers / makers are better than others. Any suggestions on what to use, and where to buy. Many thanks. Jason
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#6. Re: Stainless Brake lines - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 09:02:30 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Stainless Brake lines on 2/27/03 11:12 PM, Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> wrote: > List, I norked a connection between a brake line and > the caliper. Since I'm going to be bleeding brakes I > figure this is the opportunity to change the brake > lines and go to stainless. Unfortunately, the search > feature at http://www.bmw-m.net/search.htm is down. > In my web search I did see mention that some suppliers > / makers are better than others. Any suggestions on > what to use, and where to buy. Here are a couple of data points: 1) I do not recommend the Goodridge lines, a set of which I just removed from my car after a couple of years of use. They were slightly too long, posing potential kinking, clearance and rubbing problems, especially at the rear. Even more importantly they don't have enough swivel fittings on them, making proper installation and removal for caliper maintenance much more difficult that it needs to be. 2) I installed a set of Earl's which I happened to have in stock. (For those that don't know, Earl's is the leading supplier of hoses and fittings to the US racing industry.) On the plus side these fit perfectly, have more swivels than the Goodridge, have a protective sleeve over the braid to exclude grit, and were reasonably priced (from BMP). They also use slightly larger hex sizes on the fittings, making it easier not to round them off. As minuses, the sleeve doesn't overlap the crimp ferules (so I applied my own heatshrink there), and the fitting at the caliper doesn't swivel, which it really should. (I think I recall that the stock hoses do swivel there...correct?) The Fischer lines sold be Steve D'G are expensive but seem to be highly recommended by those who have bought them. No surprise there, since Steve is known for selling the best. Unfortunately I've never seen them myself. And let me point out before one of you does that yeah, I've noticed that the combined prices I've paid for the Goodridge and Earl's lines far exceeds what I would have spent on the Fischers! The only other comment I'd make about the Fischers is that they also have no protective sleeve over the braid. However we had a detailed thread here a few months back about how to do that yourself. Can anyone tell me whether the Fischers have a swivel fitting at the caliper end fitting? Now if I could just bleed that last bit of softness out of the brake system... Neil 96 M3
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#7. Transmission and rear diff change - from Robert Manger
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Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 09:30:11 -0500 From: "Robert Manger" <Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com> Subject: Transmission and rear diff change Group, In light of the recent diff and trans discusions. I want to change out my fluids for both. What has been the various experiences with the Mobil One products and what should I use in my 95? Or is royal purple even better than Mobil one. currently have Redline fluids that need to be changed. Thanks, Rob- Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@y To: Robert Manger <Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com> ahoo.com> cc: Subject: Re: Oil pump nut (was Re: [E36M3] Warning...) 02/26/03 12:20 PM Hey Rob. Well, the car is still where it was a while ago. It's just been too cold to work on the car :( If I could only get the windows adjusted right (the door windows to tilt in the right amount, I would just slap the door panels back on and the car would be 96% of the way there. Oh well. But I found another job that was too good to pass up....it involves leveraging my existing experience and at a 70% raise :) Woo hoo! Anyway, all you really need is a new gasket and red loctite which I have. Chester --- Robert Manger <Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com> wrote: > Chester, > > How is your car coming along? The last update I saw was that you needed to > put the interior panels back on after the stereo install. > > How difficult is it to does this on the car? What parts are required, > bedsides a new gasket for the oil pan? > > Thanks, > > Rob > > > > > -------------------- 2 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 09:45:30 -0800 (PST) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Oil pump nut (was Re: [E36M3] Warning...) > > Glad you caught this the way you did. I'm so good at doing that, I can > help > those in the tri-state area :) > > Chester > > --- Gcfuller@aol.com wrote: > > make me feel good. My shop, Bimmers R Us, has seen two '98's do this in > the > > past year. Everyone - locktite and/or wire your oil pump sprockets! > > The funny part is that the dealer told me they see this much more in BMW > > V8's, and I've got one of those too... That one is getting locktited > next > > week. > > Careful out there > > =====
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Transmission and rear diff change - from Dave Kelley
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Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 10:01:09 -0500 From: "Dave Kelley" <d.kelley@usa.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Transmission and rear diff change I have a 98 M3 with almost 70k miles. The tranny and differential fluid have never been changed. The car sees quite a bit of track time. I don't have any problems with my transmission and shifts are always smooth unless the driver messes up! :-) I have come to the conclusion that there is no reason the change the lifetime tranny fluid unless I start to have some problems. It seems that once people change tranny fluid, then they have to keep changing it on a regular basis. What do you all think? I'll be changing the differential fluid with Redline 75w/90. Dave Kelley 98 M3/4 94 325i > Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 09:30:11 -0500 > From: "Robert Manger" <Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com> > Subject: Transmission and rear diff change > > > Group, > > In light of the recent diff and trans discusions. I want to change out my > fluids for both. What has been the various experiences with the Mobil One > products and what should I use in my 95? Or is royal purple even better > than Mobil one. currently have Redline fluids that need to be changed. > > Thanks, > > Rob- >
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Stock M3 spring rates - from James Clay
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Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 10:55:55 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stock M3 spring rates We have been running stiff R springs, soft/no R bar for a couple years now - it is the hot ticket. Get rid of the roll with spring, help the wheelspin by dropping the bar. James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
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#10. EWS DME - from James Clay
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Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 11:02:15 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: EWS DME I don't know if this is general knowledge on this list, but you can use a non EWS DME if the chip doesn't have the EWS code. If you have an EWS DME, get the chip without the code and cut the wire at pin #66 from the back of the computer plug (usually green, but can be another color also, can't remember what though). James James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648