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#1. Koni SA -- when to adjust? - from Zachary Eyler-Walker
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Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 00:40:39 -0500 (EST) From: Zachary Eyler-Walker <zwalker@cs.utk.edu> Subject: Koni SA -- when to adjust? > -------------------- 7 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 20:21:39 -0800 > From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Terminology: Shocks....stiffness > > Chester, > > You have it right. Full stiff means it is harder to move the shock. > If the shock is way underdamped, or way overdamped for the > spring, the tire will not always be "on the road". Shocks need to be > set to match the springs. > > Chris > 97 M3/4 Hmm. So, why is it that people are always talking about setting their shocks at "1/2 turn from full stiff for autox and then back to full soft for the drive home" and similar things? Maybe they're just not clued in? It makes sense to change the compression damping to suit the driving conditions, but rebound damping seems like it should always be governed pretty much solely by the spring and you'd never want to change it very much. I can see small adjustments to tweak handling, but cranking it up so much that the difference in ride comfort is immediately noticeable seems like something wrong must be going on. And, if that's the case, wouldn't it be nicer if Koni made their SAs compression adjustable? Curious, Zach
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#2. RE: [E36M3]Crappy hose clamps - from d.kelley@usa.net
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Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 06:26:17 -0500 From: d.kelley@usa.net Subject: RE: [E36M3]Crappy hose clamps I replaced my clamps twice before I finally gave up and had the whole hose assembly replaced. The new clamps started leaking earlier and more... after each change. I think new clamps may be just a temporary fix for many people but YMMV. Dave Kelley 98 M3/4 > Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 22:45:51 -0600 > From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3]Crappy hose clamps > > > <Like other fluid leaks I've found on my M3, the culprit seems to be the > crappy > press fit hose clamp BMW chose to use...> > > As Keith mentioned these "hose clamps" have caused me to have a power > steering fluid leak at the pump. Replaced the BMW part with a worm gear > clamp and no more leak. Just FYI. > > Mel > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#3. Re: (follow up) Radiator about to go? Also, water pump Q - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 08:03:22 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: (follow up) Radiator about to go? Also, water pump Q on 4/2/03 12:12 AM, "K Quistorff" <kqkq@nc.rr.com> wrote: > BTW, is there an easy way to confirm whether my existing water pump has the > metal or plastic impeller? My M3 is a '96 model. Only by removing it for inspection. As a data point, my 5/96 production M3 had a plastic impeller pump. Supposedly production was switched to metal right about that time. My water pump let go while I was on the track, but at least the car was still under warranty at the time. > If it came with the metal impeller pump, what is the recommended replacement > interval? Nothing lasts forever, but I'm not sure there is any established preventative replacement interval for the metal water pump. > Just wondering if I should bother relacing the water pump now or if it's low > enough risk to hold off awhile longer. I realize it would be a convenient > time with the radiator out, but the radiator swap looks like a much quicker > job than the water pump, and I don't have much time to work on the car right > now. However as Chris Teague pointed out, if you have the radiator out it's scarcely any extra work to replace the water pump. I'd suggest replacing the thermostat at the same time. They're also failure-prone. Neil 96 M3
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#4. Re: Was Wheel Bearing/Tire Noise - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 08:13:32 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Was Wheel Bearing/Tire Noise on 4/2/03 12:12 AM, "Jason \(RaceBro\)" <racebro@santacruzbicycles.com> wrote: > Anybody want to pitch in and put this on the back of a t-shirt for Neil? ;P > "ask me how I know... ;) "Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgment." Neil 96 M3
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#5. Euro Headlights - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 09:15:49 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Euro Headlights Several months ago I bought some used Euro headlights from another Digest member who had sold his car. These replaced my cloudy and pitted stock lights. It wasn't until last weekend that I had occasion to really put them to the test, driving home at night on a winding country road. Man, those Euro lights are really a big improvement, to the point that my wife specifically remarked on it. Yeah, yeah, I know, all you guys who've had Euro headlights for years are saying, "Well, duh!" Just thought I'd mention it for anyone still just wondering whether making this upgrade is worth it. It is. (Incidentally I don't generally use the long sig below, but just for fun...and remember, NEVER add it all up!) Neil 96 M3 CHASSIS: Koni externally adjustable SA shocks front and rear with H&R Sport springs; RD Sport swaybars and reinforced rear mounts; X-brace; UUC Strut Barbarian; Ground Control RSMs and rear trailing arm bushing shims, Z3 RSM reinforcing plates; reversed stock front strut mounts; wheel studs. BRAKES: Bimmerworld brake ducts and backing plates; Earl's sleeved SS brake lines; TMS stainless steel front brake caliper pistons. BODY: Stock front undertray with reinforced mounting; Euro headlights. DRIVETRAIN: Eurosport/Conforti OBD-II Cam System; PWR aluminum radiator plus metal thermostat housing; UUC short shift kit with ERK; UUC Big Boy clutch stop; Ron Stygar clutch pedal. SAFETY: TC Kline roll bar with 6 point 3" Schroth Profi III harnesses. OTHER: VDO gauges; hardwired Valentine 1; additional 12V power outlet behind central console for phone; retrofitted BMW Business CD single disc in-dash player with factory HK sound system.
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Euro Headlights - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 06:26:59 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Euro Headlights Hey Neil! Now all you need are HID bulbs in them euro headlights :) --- Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> wrote: > Yeah, yeah, I know, all you guys who've had Euro headlights for years are > saying, "Well, duh!" =====
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Terminology: Shocks....stiffness - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 06:35:02 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Terminology: Shocks....stiffness You are correct. Stiffer SA means slower rebound. If it's set too stiff, car will jack down and the tire won't stay on the road. Jay At 08:52 PM 4/1/03 -0600, you wrote: >Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 18:44:09 -0800 (PST) >From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> >Subject: Terminology: Shocks....stiffness > >I just want to make sure that what I am thinking is conveyed when I'm speaking >valving about shocks. With Koni SA and DA shocks, you can adjust the shock to >"stiffer" or "softer". My question is: what do you mean when you talk about >setting the shock to full stiff or full soft? > >To me, when I talk about setting a shock to full stiff, I'm talking about >setting the shock where rebound is the slowest (it takes the shock longer to >return to full length). This made sense to me as I would set the shock to full >stiff for a stiffer spring. Now I'm hearing the opposite where shocks set to >full stiff have minimal rebound dampening so that the tire is "always on the >road". > >Comments? > >TIA, >Chester > >===== > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > >
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Koni SA -- when to adjust? - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 06:46:59 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni SA -- when to adjust? > >Hmm. So, why is it that people are always talking about setting their >shocks at "1/2 turn from full stiff for autox and then back to full soft >for the drive home" and similar things? Maybe they're just not clued in? I've been told to always adjust from full stiff towards soft. If the range of adjustment is 2.5 full turns, then 1 turn from full soft should be the same as 1.5 turns from full stiff. But, in reality, the shocks are slightly different. One might have 2.4 turns and the other might have 2.6 turns. As you get closer to the stiff setting, a small adjustment has more effect on shock valving. Theoretically, the shocks valving should be identical at full stiff. So, start from there and adjust each equally. >It makes sense to change the compression damping to suit the driving >conditions, but rebound damping seems like it should always be governed >pretty much solely by the spring and you'd never want to change it very >much. I can see small adjustments to tweak handling, but cranking it up >so much that the difference in ride comfort is immediately noticeable >seems like something wrong must be going on. > >And, if that's the case, wouldn't it be nicer if Koni made their SAs >compression adjustable? They do. They're called DAs (double adjustable). Jay
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#9. Re: Euro Headlights - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 10:00:04 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Euro Headlights on 4/2/03 9:26 AM, Chester Wong at chester_p_wong@yahoo.com wrote: > Hey Neil! Now all you need are HID bulbs in them euro headlights :) True, except that HIDs fail the "how many track tires could I get for that much money" test. ;) Neil 96 M3
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#10. Front Suspension Noise - from Kris Welhart
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Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 09:16:41 -0600 From: "Kris Welhart" <kris.welhart@cyou.com> Subject: Front Suspension Noise Hello all, I am having trouble diagnosing a strange noise from the driver side front suspension. It happens on two occasions, when only the driver front tire goes over a bump (it does not happen when both sides hit a bump at the same time). This is repeatable, I found a pot hole and drove back and forth over it and it happened every time. If you drive over a series of rough bumps, ie patched pavement, it rattles. It also happens occasionally under light braking at around 5 mph. It started in stop and go traffic (in ATL of course). This is not repeatable. I have pulled the tire and made sure that everything is tight- strut, sway links, subframe, control arms, tie rod end, strut hat (to strut and strut tower), removed caliper and reinstalled, inspected control arm busihing. The only thing I can think of is the tie rod, but the noise does not seem to be affected by steering. Give me every option that you can think of, and is the tie rod a possibility? Single answers and lists are equally accepted. I have eibach sways with poly bushings, Koni SA and Eibach springs, the CA's and bushing are less than one year old, so are the strut hats and sway links. Let me hear it, I can take it. Thanks, Kris