-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re: [E36M3] Koni SA -- when to adjust? - from Zachary Eyler-Walker
Top
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 10:32:27 -0500 (EST) From: Zachary Eyler-Walker <zwalker@cs.utk.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni SA -- when to adjust? On Wed, 2 Apr 2003 <snipped> wrote: > Well, I think the easiest way to answer this question is just to ask you > to adjust your Koni's to full stiff and ride on the street. Then adjust > them to full soft and ride on the street again. I assure you that after > that, you will always want to adjust them for full soft on the street. > > Now if you want to talk about maximizing handling performance on the > track or for autocross, that is another discussion entirely! I would long since, if I had them yet. I am trying to decide what shocks to get at the moment, and whether I spring (haha) for DAs or not. I guess the question is, does simply adjusting rebound move you from 'handles great, rides like a washboard' to 'handles okay, rides nice and smooth'? That seems slightly counterintuitive to me. If it seems like it's the case, can anyone explain why? Thanks, Zach
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Knock Sensor Fault Code - from DiVincenti, A.J.
Top
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 09:52:43 -0600 From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> Subject: Knock Sensor Fault Code I've been getting O2 sensor fault code and a knock sensor code. This is the second O2 sensor already. Are these faults related and do they usually come together? Also, does the knock sensor error indicate that the knock sensor itself is bad or that there is a condition going on in one of the cylinders? What would be the ill affects of a bad knock sensor in terms of performance? AJ 95 M3.
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Re: [E36M3] Koni SA -- when to adjust? - from Scott Yu
Top
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 08:31:29 -0800 (PST) From: Scott Yu <segascott@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni SA -- when to adjust? Wait - I've heard one camp saying "adjust from full soft," and the other party is saying "adjust from full stiff." I'd like to represent the middle man and say "adjust from the middle," but I think I'll have to choose a side... so which way should I go from where? scott '97 M3 Bay Area --- "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> wrote: > Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 06:46:59 -0800 > From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni SA -- when to adjust? > > > > >Hmm. So, why is it that people are always talking > about setting their > >shocks at "1/2 turn from full stiff for autox and > then back to full soft > >for the drive home" and similar things? Maybe > they're just not clued in? > > I've been told to always adjust from full stiff > towards soft. __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more http://tax.yahoo.com
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. control arm bushing options - from Todd C. Merrill
Top
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 11:34:30 -0500 (EST) From: "Todd C. Merrill" <tmerrill@mathworks.com> Subject: control arm bushing options I've noticed the control arm bushings starting to crack (the ones rearmost in the car, with the axis of the bushing longitudinal to the car). I've got 51k miles on the car. Out they will come next week. A couple of questions... o what would the eccentric bushings from the '95 give me? I would imagine it would change my geometry (how?) and require an alignment? o is there a stronger OEM bushing than stock? Or, am I confusing this with the regular 3-series bushing upgrade to the M? o any other suggestions for aftermarket? I would be interested in something a little better than stock, but not race quality (which usually means lots of added NVH). Thanks. Until next time... Todd 1998 BMW Dinan M3 coupe BMW CCA member, Boston Chapter ---
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Anyone with experience disassembling steering wheel? - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 08:45:19 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Anyone with experience disassembling steering wheel? I'm about to embark on retrofitted the E39M5 3-spoke steering wheel controls into my car. I bought the SWI-X (http://www.go2pac.com/products/swi.htm) universal controller that will learn the infrared signals from my alpine remote controller and control the Alpine CDA-7998 head. The only real concern is getting power to the switches. I'm not really sure how the wiring is behind the steering wheel and how it doesn't bind when you turn the wheel, etc. Any helpful tips would be great! TIA, Chester =====
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Seat-belted-occupant-blowing-bubble light - from kim.burgess@att.net
Top
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 16:51:29 +0000 From: kim.burgess@att.net Subject: Seat-belted-occupant-blowing-bubble light I have a 99 M3 @ 52.8K that has illuminated its SRS(?)Seat-belted-occupant-blowing-bubble light. Is this a dealer only fix?" What is the warrenty on the SRS system - same as the rest - 4 yrs/50,000? Thanks KLBurgess
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Re: [E36M3] control arm bushing options - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 08:52:55 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] control arm bushing options Some say you can use the '95 ones, some say don't. I dunno. I do know the '95 geometry is more aggressive, but you'd need to use '95 kingpins, '95 control arms and '95 bushings. As a side note, I think I toasted my Powerflex bushing in the accident. I will be going back to stock as I think it's a pretty good design and wasn't a big fan of the powerflex after seeing it. Chester --- "Todd C. Merrill" <tmerrill@mathworks.com> wrote: > o what would the eccentric bushings from the '95 give me? > I would imagine it would change my geometry (how?) > and require an alignment? > o is there a stronger OEM bushing than stock? Or, am I confusing > this with the regular 3-series bushing upgrade to the M? > o any other suggestions for aftermarket? I would be interested > in something a little better than stock, but not race > quality (which usually means lots of added NVH). =====
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: [E36M3] Koni SA -- when to adjust? - from cteague@cox.net
Top
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 12:08:35 -0500 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni SA -- when to adjust? Zach, Optimum handling is not the same as good ride quality. As far as rebound, going from full soft to full stiff has an effect on ride quality. Not huge, but easily noticible. To get maximum grip, I think you should find the optimum rebound setting and leave it thier. Whether or not that is the best ride quality is personal preference. I have the Koni DA's, which do allow both compression and rebound adjustment, idependently. Going from full soft to full stiff on compression makes the car almost undrivable on the street. IMHO, the compression setting has a much larger effect on ride quality than rebound. Chris 97 M3/4 > Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 00:40:39 -0500 (EST) > From: Zachary Eyler-Walker <zwalker@cs.utk.edu> > Subject: Koni SA -- when to adjust? > > > -------------------- 7 -------------------- > > Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 20:21:39 -0800 > > From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Terminology: Shocks....stiffness > > > > Chester, > > > > You have it right. Full stiff means it is harder to move the shock. > > If the shock is way underdamped, or way overdamped for the > > spring, the tire will not always be "on the road". Shocks need to be > > set to match the springs. > > > > Chris > > 97 M3/4 > > Hmm. So, why is it that people are always talking about setting their > shocks at "1/2 turn from full stiff for autox and then back to full soft > for the drive home" and similar things? Maybe they're just not clued in? > > It makes sense to change the compression damping to suit the driving > conditions, but rebound damping seems like it should always be governed > pretty much solely by the spring and you'd never want to change it very > much. I can see small adjustments to tweak handling, but cranking it up > so much that the difference in ride comfort is immediately noticeable > seems like something wrong must be going on. > > And, if that's the case, wouldn't it be nicer if Koni made their SAs > compression adjustable? > > Curious, > > Zach
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. RE: [E36M3] Euro Headlights - from K.C. Boyce
Top
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 12:51:22 -0500 From: "K.C. Boyce" <kcb@abcgroup-inc.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Euro Headlights Okay...I'm sold. I want Euros on my recently acquired M3/4. A couple of questions first, if the list will humor me: 1. How significantly do Euro headlights change the "face" of our cars? Anyone have before/after pics? I may be in the minority, but I like the visage of the E36 with the US headlights and amber turn signal indicators. 2. Did any E36 (US, Euro, or other) have HIDs as optional equipment? 3. How do 9006 HIDs compare with halogen Euros and HID Euros? I'm interested in both objective (i.e., light intensity) and subjective impressions. Thanks! KC Boyce '97 M3/4
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. RE: [E36M3] Euro Headlights - from Carey Probst
Top
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 13:07:43 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <Carey.Probst@oracle.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Euro Headlights OK, my perspective. 1. No visible change other than the projector lamp behind the lens. Not that noticeable. The euros replace the headlights only. Going with clear signals in another upgrade (downgrade) depending on point of view. 2. Don't know but there are lots of 3rd party HIDs available. 3. Putting a really bright HID into a US spec light gives you a brighter, more blinding blob of light. One site that I know of that specializes in high performance lights states simply that if you have the normal US light pattern of a round blob of light rather than the flat distinct cut off of the euro lights, not to waste your money upgrading the bulbs. I've noticed some new imports have the euro pattern lights standard. My wife's Tiburon has the same pattern as the euros rather than the US junk. Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. -----Original Message----- From: K.C. Boyce [mailto:kcb@abcgroup-inc.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 12:52 PM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Euro Headlights Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 12:51:22 -0500 From: "K.C. Boyce" <kcb@abcgroup-inc.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Euro Headlights Okay...I'm sold. I want Euros on my recently acquired M3/4. A couple of questions first, if the list will humor me: 1. How significantly do Euro headlights change the "face" of our cars? Anyone have before/after pics? I may be in the minority, but I like the visage of the E36 with the US headlights and amber turn signal indicators. 2. Did any E36 (US, Euro, or other) have HIDs as optional equipment? 3. How do 9006 HIDs compare with halogen Euros and HID Euros? I'm interested in both objective (i.e., light intensity) and subjective impressions. Thanks! KC Boyce '97 M3/4 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************