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#1. Re: [E36M3] Knock Sensor Fault Code - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 12:18:36 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Knock Sensor Fault Code "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> wrote: > > I've been getting O2 sensor fault code and a knock sensor code. This > is the second O2 sensor already. How many miles on the car? Mine has 75K and between smelly exhaust and decreasing milage I suspect my 02 sensor is on its last legs. > Are these faults related and do they usually come together? I do not believe they are related. Which knock sensor is faulting? The front one (cyl 1-3) could theoretically be accessed and replaced with the intake manifold in place. The rear one (cyl 4-6) is a royal PITA to replace requiring at least three hands and tons of patience and time. > Also, does the knock sensor error indicate that the knock sensor > itself is bad or that there is a condition going on in one of the > cylinders? I suspect the DME triggers CE light only if it suspects that the sensor itself is faulting. You could get plenty of knock from bad/oxygenated/low octane gas or a bad aftermarket chip that will run your engine dangerously lean and ping all the time (hi Al DuPont!), but those still do not throw a fault code. > What would be the ill affects of a bad knock sensor in terms of > performance? The DME will retard timing in an effort to reduce the knock. Thus reducing power. alex f 95 M3
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Seat-belted-occupant-blowing-bubble light - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 13:29:42 -0500 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Seat-belted-occupant-blowing-bubble light kim burgess writes: > I have a 99 M3 @ 52.8K that has illuminated its > SRS(?)Seat-belted-occupant-blowing-bubble light. > Is this a dealer only fix?" What is the warrenty on the SRS system - same as > the rest - 4 yrs/50,000? Yep, the light you got is the SRS light. As far as the warranty, not sure. I suspect it's under the 4yr/50k warranty. When mine illuminated last time I had the dealer fix it. As to whether it's a dealer only fix, that depends. Peake Research has a SRS scan / reset tool: http://www.peakeresearch.com/srstool.htm With this you can identify why the light is on. The seatbelt buckles have a sensor in them (to determine whether you're buckled or not), this sensor's longevity is rather suspect. When this sensor goes bad, the SRS light comes on. Unfortunately the fix is to replace the whole seatbelt buckle. Still, with how much the dealer charged last time, I can buy the tool, buy the seatbelt buckle, do the work myself, and still be well under what they charged me. Likely that's what I'll end up doing, my SRS light has been on for a little bit as well. Andrej '97 M3
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#3. RE: [E36M3] (follow up) Radiator about to go? Also, water pump Q - from Dames, Mark
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Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 10:48:34 -0800 From: "Dames, Mark" <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> Subject: RE: [E36M3] (follow up) Radiator about to go? Also, water pump Q Incontemplation of replacing my radiator, I'd like to get the part numbers for the necessary fasteners that mount the radiator if anyone has these. Is it correct that these are breakable upon disassembly? And is there a CD available for public consumption which lists M3 parts? TIA mark. -----Original Message----- From: Chris Teague [mailto:cteague@cox.net] Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 8:32 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] (follow up) Radiator about to go? Also, water pump Q Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 20:24:06 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] (follow up) Radiator about to go? Also, water pump Q Keith, Once the radiator is out, and hoses are off, changing the water pump is about 10 minutes. For the hassle factor alone, change the water pump now. I did the whole kit last August at 45K. Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 22:23:37 -0500 > From: "K Quistorff" <kqkq@nc.rr.com> > Subject: (follow up) Radiator about to go? Also, water pump Q > > In regards to my post yesterday about my radiator leaking coolant, upon > closer inspection this evening, it turns out the coolant is actually leaking > from the underside of the overflow hose, immediately above the upper > radiator hose neck. (At first it appeared to be coming from the upper > radiator hose neck itself, but that no longer appears to be the case.) Like > other fluid leaks I've found on my M3, the culprit seems to be the crappy > press fit hose clamp BMW chose to use on the overflow hose, replaced this > evening with a real hose clamp. Even so, since my M3 has 72 kmi and some > track time, I'm taking you guys' advice to replace the radiator before it > fails at a most inopportune time - I ordered a new radiator, water pump, > etc. from Bimmerparts this morning and should have it before my driver's ed > at VIR on Monday. > > BTW, is there an easy way to confirm whether my existing water pump has the > metal or plastic impeller? My M3 is a '96 model. If it came with the metal > impeller pump, what is the recommended replacement interval? Just wondering > if I should bother relacing the water pump now or if it's low enough risk to > hold off awhile longer. I realize it would be a convenient time with the > radiator out, but the radiator swap looks like a much quicker job than the > water pump, and I don't have much time to work on the car right now. > > Regards, > > Keith Quistorff > Cary, NC ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Knock Sensor Fault Code - from DiVincenti, A.J.
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Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 12:44:13 -0600 From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Knock Sensor Fault Code Thanks Alex, The engine has about 70k miles on it. It is the sensor for cylinders 4-6. I guess I'd better grow that third hand. I have experienced some unusual sudden drops in power. This could be the timing getting retarded. AJ -----Original Message----- From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com [mailto:alex.fadeev@verizon.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 12:19 PM To: DiVincenti, A.J. Cc: e36m3@bmw-m.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] Knock Sensor Fault Code "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> wrote: > > I've been getting O2 sensor fault code and a knock sensor code. This > is the second O2 sensor already. How many miles on the car? Mine has 75K and between smelly exhaust and decreasing milage I suspect my 02 sensor is on its last legs. > Are these faults related and do they usually come together? I do not believe they are related. Which knock sensor is faulting? The front one (cyl 1-3) could theoretically be accessed and replaced with the intake manifold in place. The rear one (cyl 4-6) is a royal PITA to replace requiring at least three hands and tons of patience and time. > Also, does the knock sensor error indicate that the knock sensor > itself is bad or that there is a condition going on in one of the > cylinders? I suspect the DME triggers CE light only if it suspects that the sensor itself is faulting. You could get plenty of knock from bad/oxygenated/low octane gas or a bad aftermarket chip that will run your engine dangerously lean and ping all the time (hi Al DuPont!), but those still do not throw a fault code. > What would be the ill affects of a bad knock sensor in terms of > performance? The DME will retard timing in an effort to reduce the knock. Thus reducing power. alex f 95 M3
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Euro Headlights - from Chris Conner
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Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 13:50:47 -0500 From: "Chris Conner" <chris@digital7.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Euro Headlights > -------------------- 10 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 13:07:43 -0500 > From: "Carey Probst" <Carey.Probst@oracle.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Euro Headlights > > OK, my perspective. > > 1. No visible change other than the projector lamp behind the lens. Not > that noticeable. The euros replace the headlights only. Going with clear > signals in another upgrade (downgrade) depending on point of view. [Chris Conner] I disagree completely. Ellipsoids give the car a huge visual improvement. Not only do they fill out the allotted space better, the glass stays much brighter and clearer than the shoddy US plastic lenses. Here are shots of my 328 with stock US lights/HIDs, and my m3 with ellipsoids/HIDs. 328: http://m3.digital7.com/xenons.jpg http://m3.digital7.com/old/frontsun.jpg m3: http://m3.digital7.com/shoot/newpaint.jpg http://m3.digital7.com/shoot/newpaint3.jpg
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#6. Re: [E36M3] control arm bushing options - from e36m3digest@jedinite.com
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Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 12:54:20 -0600 From: "e36m3digest@jedinite.com" <e36m3digest@jedinite.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] control arm bushing options Check out list sponsor Bimmerworld (www.bimmerworld.com). I run their Powerflex suspension bushings and highly recommend them if you are considering an aftermarket upgrade. Go to Bimmerworld's website and select their online catalog, then the suspension section, then the Urethane Bushings section. If you are not interested in going aftermarket, then the guys at Bimmerworld can hook you up with new stock control arms. Either way, they're the best place to talk you through your various options. Good luck, Eric M. Foster http://Performify.com Todd C. Merrill wrote: > Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 11:34:30 -0500 (EST) > From: "Todd C. Merrill" <tmerrill@mathworks.com> > Subject: control arm bushing options > > > I've noticed the control arm bushings starting to crack (the ones > rearmost in the car, with the axis of the bushing longitudinal to > the car). I've got 51k miles on the car. Out they will come > next week. A couple of questions...
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#7. RE: [E36M3] control arm bushing options - from Dames, Mark
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Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 11:00:12 -0800 From: "Dames, Mark" <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> Subject: RE: [E36M3] control arm bushing options chester wrote: "you'd need to use '95 kingpins, '95 control arms" I don't think this is correct. Dinan informed me that the 95 bushings will fit right onto a '98 control arm. But while you're into it you may want to replace the control arm if lower ball joint wear is or will be an issue. (The ball joints are a non-replaceable part of the control arm) The 96+ bushings have gaps in the rubber to allow to more compliance/better ride. The 95 bushings are solid rubber and the eccentric hole position will give you more castor (more stability at high speed). I believe that mounting them may be tricky because they are a press fit. They go on with a keroseen type lubricant, that dries, setting the bushing. Once the bushings are installed, I believe the car has to be lowered to load the control arm into proper position vis-a-vis the bushing before it sets. And with the eccentric 95 bushing, orientation of the bushing in the carrier will be critical. mark. -----Original Message----- From: Chester Wong [mailto:chester_p_wong@yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 9:02 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] control arm bushing options Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 08:52:55 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] control arm bushing options Some say you can use the '95 ones, some say don't. I dunno. I do know the '95 geometry is more aggressive, but you'd need to use '95 kingpins, '95 control arms and '95 bushings. As a side note, I think I toasted my Powerflex bushing in the accident. I will be going back to stock as I think it's a pretty good design and wasn't a big fan of the powerflex after seeing it. Chester --- "Todd C. Merrill" <tmerrill@mathworks.com> wrote: > o what would the eccentric bushings from the '95 give me? > I would imagine it would change my geometry (how?) > and require an alignment? > o is there a stronger OEM bushing than stock? Or, am I confusing > this with the regular 3-series bushing upgrade to the M? > o any other suggestions for aftermarket? I would be interested > in something a little better than stock, but not race > quality (which usually means lots of added NVH). ===== ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#8. Re: Control arm bushing options - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 13:58:13 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Control arm bushing options on 4/2/03 1:22 PM, "Todd C. Merrill" <tmerrill@mathworks.com> wrote: > I've noticed the control arm bushings starting to crack (the ones > rearmost in the car, with the axis of the bushing longitudinal to > the car). I've got 51k miles on the car. Out they will come > next week. A couple of questions... > > o what would the eccentric bushings from the '95 give me? > I would imagine it would change my geometry (how?) They would give you extra caster. Since the 96+ already has more caster than the 95 that would seem to be unnecessary. Although the 96+ M3 has less stock negative camber than the 95, that isn't really a function of the control arm bushings. > and require an alignment? Yes. > o is there a stronger OEM bushing than stock? Or, am I confusing > this with the regular 3-series bushing upgrade to the M? The 96+ bushing is slightly softer than the 95, since it has voids where the 95 bushing is solid. However the non-M bushing is much softer. If you want a less compliant bushing you would have to go aftermarket. The 96+ bushing is constructed to have more lateral compliance - relative to its axis - the main purpose of which is to soften impacts when the tire hits a bump. In addition to the front suspension compressing over the bump, lateral compliance in the bushing allows the control arm to rotate around the inboard ball joint, deflecting the wheel rearwards. It's not clear to me how much real world difference this makes to handling. Maybe someone else can chime in here? Neil 96 M3
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#9. Inspection II question - from Tucker Ryals
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Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 11:06:48 -0800 (PST) From: Tucker Ryals <tuckerryals@yahoo.com> Subject: Inspection II question My inspection light just came on (gotta love that after having bought the car only 2 months ago!). After checking with 2 local dealers and being quoted $580 and $675 for an Inspection II, I got curious and asked for a detailed list of what the Inspection II actually covers. The only actual services are: 1. Oil and oil filter change 2. New microfilter 3. New spark plugs 4. New air intake filter (n/a for me due to CAI) Other than these 4 items, it is only "check this and check that". I just purchased the car (1995 model with ~42k miles) and had a thorough pre-purchase inspection performed. So my question is...are there any advantages to letting the dealer perform the service as opposed to me changing the oil, filter, microfilter and spark plugs? It would be a whole lot cheaper to do it myself. Tucker Ryals 1995 M3 Gainesville, FL __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more http://tax.yahoo.com
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#10. re: control arm bushings - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 14:09:48 -0500 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: re: control arm bushings >> what would the eccentric bushings from the '95 give me? 1) Eccentric bushings (the bushings in the lollipop) would reduce your caster, unless you are running the old centered series one KMACs (like I am) on a '96+ car. I will be installing new '96+ control arms, with new offset '95 solid bushings and I should be within spec again (around ~6.5 vs. ~5.5) with my caster. Probably a good idea to get an alignment if you make a change with the bushings. No worries as I get at least one alignment every year anyway because the Boston roads do an ample job of rearranging my suspension. >> is there a stronger OEM bushing than stock? Or, am I confusing this with the regular 3-series bushing upgrade to the M? 2) There is a solid, centered replacement bushing that you can get from the M-Coupe (don't have a p/n handy). It does not have the extra slots like the '96-'99 centered bushing. >> any other suggestions for aftermarket? I would be interested in something a little better than stock, but not race quality (which usually means lots of added NVH). 3) Some people use powerflex, but NVH, longevity can be better or worse depending on your environment. Do you drive in the winter? If so, keep the rubber bushings. As always, YMMV. -Justin -- '76 02 '97 m3 (recovering from our long NE winter, finally washed this past weekend for the first time since November!) bmw cca checkout http://users.vei.net/jgerry