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#1. RE: [E36M3] Koni SA -- when to adjust? - from Jason \(RaceBro\)
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Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 11:32:11 -0800 From: "Jason \(RaceBro\)" <racebro@santacruzbicycles.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Koni SA -- when to adjust? I'll chime in here with my two cents. When damping is setup, typically all adjustments are made in reference to turns from fully closed. Whenever you hear (most) pro's talk about suspension setup (cars, bikes, motorcycles, etc.) you'll hear them refer to the adjustments in "turns out", i.e. turns back from the fully closed (maximum damping) position. The reason for that has already been explained, so I'll spare you all the reiteration. Whether you adjust in from full soft or out from full stiff is really moot-- however, the idea is to standardize the way that it's measured and quantify accurately the amount of damping used. Given that the "industry" chooses to measure in "turns out", that's the way that I would choose to measure it... Hope that clears up some confusion... :) Jason Lombard Santa Cruz Bicycles, Inc. jason@santacruzbicycles.com (831)459-7560 x 30 http://www.santacruzbicycles.com <http://www.santacruzbicycles.com> --- -------------------- 3 -------------------- Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 08:31:29 -0800 (PST) From: Scott Yu <segascott@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni SA -- when to adjust? Wait - I've heard one camp saying "adjust from full soft," and the other party is saying "adjust from full stiff." I'd like to represent the middle man and say "adjust from the middle," but I think I'll have to choose a side... so which way should I go from where? scott '97 M3 Bay Area -
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#2. Control arm differences (95 vs. 96-99) - from Michael Turgeon
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Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 11:35:42 -0800 (PST) From: Michael Turgeon <turgeon1@yahoo.com> Subject: Control arm differences (95 vs. 96-99) Gruppe: I thought someone had also posted the differences in the control arm dimensions as well. If so, does any one have the post handy. I have to replace the control arms on my race car and would like to know the advantages/disadvantages of each. TIA, Mike #418 JP __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more http://tax.yahoo.com
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#3. new engine cost? - from Hunt Hodgetts
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Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 11:50:02 -0800 (PST) From: Hunt Hodgetts <hhodgetts@yahoo.com> Subject: new engine cost? I'm thinking about purchasing a 96 M3 with 154k miles. The engine is in bad shape and will need to be replaced or rebuilt. Does anyone know "ballpark" what it is likely to cost to: 1. rebuild an M3 engine or 2. replace an M3 engine? I'm in the Atlanta area. Thanks, Hunt ===== Hunt Hodgetts (404) 644-6020 Wholesale Auto Broker Atlanta, GA __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more http://tax.yahoo.com
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#4. RE: control arm bushing options - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 14:51:58 -0500 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: control arm bushing options Todd, I used the E30 M3 aluminum control arms with 95 M3 bushings. I believe it adds a bit of + caster and makes slight camber difference (negative). Not 100% sure (someone please correct me if I am wrong). I bought it from www.bimmerparts.com and they had good pricing (control arms on special, plus they install the bushings on the arms too). As for me, couldn't tell seat of the pant difference. YES you do need an alignment. Mine was out of whack after my install (too much toe out). Whatever you do STAY with OEM parts (control arms at least). My previous bushings held up fine at 60K but there was slight play at the arm joints. Ahmad 98 M3 Atlanta
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#5. Re: [E36M3] re: control arm bushings - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 11:58:24 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] re: control arm bushings --- JUSTIN GERRY <JGERRY@butchers.com> wrote: > 2) There is a solid, centered replacement bushing that you can get from > the M-Coupe (don't have a p/n handy). It does not have the extra slots > like the '96-'99 centered bushing. I'm not sure why people say this, but I haven't seen any different front control arm bushing for the M Coupe. Anyone have a part number to prove me wrong? Chester =====
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#6. FS: 1994 325is race car - from Patrick Buthmann
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Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 12:36:14 -0800 From: "Patrick Buthmann" <patrick@teutonic.ca> Subject: FS: 1994 325is race car For sale: 1994 BMW 325is race car, fully prepared for running in D-Modified (BMW CCA Club Racing or the Actionfront BMW Ontario Race Series). Stock 2.5L motor, always run with Amsoil 20W50 synthetic. 126,000 km. Jim Conforti chip, CAI. AC Schnitzer exhaust. Full 6-point roll cage by Raven Performance (chro-moly), gusseted to A/B pillars, roof line and door jamb. Turner Motorsports / BMW Groupe N suspension (coilovers) with 650 lbs/in springs in front, 900 lbs/in springs rear. Racing Dynamics sway bars (27mm front, 24mm rear). Ground Control rear shock mounts, front caster / camber plates. Racing Dynamics rear strut tower brace. Spherical bearings for lower control arms and rear trailing arms. (Ground Control) 75mm BBS wheel studs at all corners, including 5 spares. Stoptech 332mm x 32mm big brake kit (4-piston caliper). Stainless steel brake lines. M3 (25.4mm) Master cylinder. 3.46:1 M3 rear differential with 60% limited slip. Also includes factory 3.15:1 rear differential. New gearset from Jim Blanton in 2002. Fully stripped interior with OMP Grip fibreglass buckets, 60% short shift kit. Includes new OMP 3 inch harnesses (driver and passenger). Includes IO Port racing video camera mount. Many spare parts from stripped interior (including AC) included. 10 (ten) OZ Superleggera wheels (17x8), 6 mounted with Toyo RA1s (235/40/17) and 4 mounted with Kumho Supra 712s (235/40/17s). M3 LTW rear wing (full height). AC Schnitzer front splitter and body kit (side panels and rear diffuser). Many more minor upgrades and improvements included. $19,000 USD or best offer. Will NOT part out car. Please e-mail for additional information or pictures. Thanks, Pat ____________________________________________________________ Free 20MB Web Site Hosting and Personalized E-mail Service! Get It Now At Doteasy.com http://www.doteasy.com/et/
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#7. Re: [E36M3] re: control arm bushings - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 15:37:37 -0500 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] re: control arm bushings The solid bushing could be just a rumor. I've not seen a part number either, but then again I have not looked. Hopefully we can get some pics of the various bushing types to really answer the question. -Justin -- '76 02 '97 m3 bmw cca checkout http://users.vei.net/jgerry >>> Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> 04/02 2:58 PM >>> --- JUSTIN GERRY <JGERRY@butchers.com> wrote: > 2) There is a solid, centered replacement bushing that you can get from > the M-Coupe (don't have a p/n handy). It does not have the extra slots > like the '96-'99 centered bushing. I'm not sure why people say this, but I haven't seen any different front control arm bushing for the M Coupe. Anyone have a part number to prove me wrong? Chester =====
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#8. 4-point harness install on 4-door E36 cars - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 14:42:00 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: 4-point harness install on 4-door E36 cars Folks, I have a friend who is trying to install a 4-point Schroth harness in a 4 door E36 car. I did not have any problems doing similar installs on my E30 and E36 2-doors, but we've already run into the following problems with his car: 1. the 17mm bolts holding the front seat in place are so close to the power seat rails to squeeze in a socket. Has anyone identified an especially thin wall socket that fits? 2. the rear outboard latch attachment points are obscured by a plastic that extends from the bottom of the rear doors up to the rear back cushion. There are no visible screws or bolts holding it in place. Any tricks to removing it other than brute force pulling up? 3. any other hidden gems in the 4-door back seat before we get access to the outboard seat belt anchor points? TIA, alex f
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#9. Re: [E36M3] re: control arm bushings - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 15:15:49 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] re: control arm bushings "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> wrote: > > >> what would the eccentric bushings from the '95 give me? > > 1) Eccentric bushings (the bushings in the lollipop) would reduce > your caster, I guess that depends on how you install them! Front control arm geometry look something like this: O - nose \ \ \ O - wheel / / O - rear bushing bracket attrached to the body If you move the rear attachment point (bushing hole) inboard, you gain caster and a tiny bit of camber (I'm not doing 3-D diagrams to demonstrate ;-). Mounting the eccentric bushing with the hole moved inboard is how it's done on '95 E36 and E30M3s. > unless you are running the old centered series one KMACs (like I > am) on a '96+ car. The front camber plates are a separate issue altogether. > I will be installing new '96+ control arms, with new offset '95 > solid bushings and I should be within spec again (around ~6.5 > vs. ~5.5) with my caster. This is the first I hear of anyone going with '96 arms on a '95 M3. Let us know how it works out. > No worries as I get at least one alignment every year anyway because > the Boston roads do an ample job of rearranging my suspension. Unless you are bending suspension pieces, your alignment should not be changing much. > >> any other suggestions for aftermarket? I would be interested in > something a little better than stock, but not race quality (which > usually means lots of added NVH). > > 3) Some people use powerflex, but NVH, longevity can be better or > worse depending on your environment. Do you drive in the winter? > If so, keep the rubber bushings. Agreed. alex f
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#10. Re: Radiator about to go? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 17:04:52 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Radiator about to go? on 4/2/03 2:22 PM, "Dames, Mark" <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> wrote: > Incontemplation of replacing my radiator, I'd like to get the part numbers > for the necessary fasteners that mount the radiator if anyone has these. Parts you might care to think about: Part Number Description Qty 17 11 1 723 341 Radiator upper mounting clip 2 17 20 1 719 414 Radiator upper mounting rubber 2 17 11 1 178 412 Rubber buffer 2 11 53 1 726 344 Radiator hose 1 11 53 1 708 499 Radiator hose 1 11 53 1 265 084 O ring - thermostat * 1 32 41 1 093 596 Sealing ring - fan switch 1 * If you get a new t'stat housing it'll come with the O-ring. You may also need hose clamps. You will definitely need a replacement worm drive hose clamp for the small overflow hose at the top of the radiator on the driver's side. There are also some miscellaneous plastic push-rivets which you may need to replace if they break. > Is it correct that these [the clips] are breakable upon disassembly? Yes. It's not obvious how the clips work until you've broken the first one. They're inexpensive though. Neil 96 M3