-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Toyo tires, more info - from James Clay
Top
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 17:23:08 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Toyo tires, more info I am responding to the list due to the massive amount of email I have gotten. The Toyos are T1-S street tires, shaved and used. They are all 225/45-17 ( I think we have one nice set of 235-18 one of the shop guys picked up). The tread is not a ton and may not be 100% perfect, but they are not corded and don't have big flatspots. The tires themselves are fairly sticky for a street tire (not far off a good race tire and probably better than some). I have a ton of them so no real need to keep all the extra sets. I think they would make great driver's school tires because they are generally good tires, cheap, not a ton of tread, and a good stepping stone for a couple of schools between street tires and race tires. Life depends on how you drive them, I would get about 1-2 days at a school but an intermediate student could get a couple of weekends. James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. RE: new engine cost - from BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)
Top
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 17:57:27 -0500 From: "BOOM,BILL (HP-Roseville,ex1)" <bill_boom@hp.com> Subject: RE: new engine cost > From: Hunt Hodgetts <hhodgetts@yahoo.com> > Subject: new engine cost? > > I'm thinking about purchasing a 96 M3 with 154k miles. > The engine is in bad shape and will need to be > replaced or rebuilt. Does anyone know "ballpark" what > it is likely to cost to: 1. rebuild an M3 engine or 2. > replace an M3 engine? I'm in the Atlanta area. > Thanks, > Hunt I had to price this stuff myself last year. At the time, a remanufactured (which is as close to new as you can get, AFAIK) E36 M3 engine from BMW went for ~8K. If you're lucky and/or patient you may be able to find a used engine in good shape from a totaled car for 4-5K. Or, you could easily buy a rebuilt for about 6K. Labor to remove and replace from an independent shop, at least one here in Sac, would be about 2K. Don't know what a full rebuild on your existing engine would cost, but it would probably be the least expensive route - assuming it makes sense to rebuild, which would probably depend on how far gone the existing engine is. - Bill
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Re: [E36M3] re: control arm bushings - from Todd C. Merrill
Top
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 18:17:53 -0500 (EST) From: "Todd C. Merrill" <tmerrill@mathworks.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] re: control arm bushings On Wed, 2 Apr 2003, JUSTIN GERRY wrote: > 2) There is a solid, centered replacement bushing that you can get from > the M-Coupe (don't have a p/n handy). It does not have the extra slots > like the '96-'99 centered bushing. It looks like this is turning out to be a rumor. The p/n for both the E36 96+ and the Z3/M3 coupe+roadster is 31-12-9-069-035. My local dealer looked up the E30 M3, the '95 E36 M3, Euro E36's, E39 M5, and a few others, looking for something similar. Nada. Looks like I'll be replacing OEM, then. Thanks, all. Until next time... Todd 1998 BMW Dinan M3 coupe BMW CCA member, Boston Chapter ---
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. re: control arm bushings - from James Clay
Top
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 20:09:27 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: re: control arm bushings 95 bushings in a 96+ car usually are positioned for more castor. They can be used (or the Powerflex equivalent) but I prefer a slightly different alignment of them to avoid some geometry issues. James James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Re: Control arm differences (95 vs. 96-99) - from James Clay
Top
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 20:13:22 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: Control arm differences (95 vs. 96-99) No real difference, interchangeable. The 325 parts are way cheaper, legal, and you will bend them long before they wear Mike! James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Re: [E36M3] Knock Sensor Code - from Roger Graves
Top
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 19:48:07 -0600 From: Roger Graves <RogRacer@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Knock Sensor Code Before you replace the knock sensor(s), consider 1) retorque or replace the spark plugs, and 2) Clean the connector at the DME with electrical contact cleaner. IIRC, the knock sensors share a common ground with the 02 sensor at the DME....a little corrosion on the connector could explain both faults. If neither 1) nor 2) fix the problem, you may have to replace the knock sensors, as they are known to crack :( Roger '95 M3 w/ clean DME connector
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Re: [E36M3] Koni SA -- when to adjust? - from Steven Hazard
Top
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 21:03:02 -0500 From: "Steven Hazard" <98m3@attbi.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni SA -- when to adjust? Chris, not only does Compression settings effect ride quality, it also makes a huge difference in handling traits!!!!.... One to two clicks on the compression adjustment to a Koni DA yields huge changes in slip angles and a M3's feedback, and personality to the driver :-) You can dial in oversteer, or understeer at will, with DA's....as long as you have also done a good spring upgrade.... If your budget minded, the new hot setup is to run SA Koni's up front dialed into your Spring purchase and DA rears.....Saving about $800...... SA shocks are designed to mate up to multiple spring rates/manufacturers, not fine tune a suspension like a DA can........ Been there done that............I ran SA's on two Ford SHO's in the early 90's and learned the hard way! DA's are awesome! And of course expensive................If I had to rate all the purchases I have made on my 98M3 the DA hand made Koni's from TC Kline are the best return on investment I ever made on my car! Steve Boston Chapter Autocross Chair Cheers, Steve -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 12:08:35 -0500 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni SA -- when to adjust? Zach, Optimum handling is not the same as good ride quality. As far as rebound, going from full soft to full stiff has an effect on ride quality. Not huge, but easily noticible. To get maximum grip, I think you should find the optimum rebound setting and leave it thier. Whether or not that is the best ride quality is personal preference. I have the Koni DA's, which do allow both compression and rebound adjustment, idependently. Going from full soft to full stiff on compression makes the car almost undrivable on the street. IMHO, the compression setting has a much larger effect on ride quality than rebound. Chris 97 M3/4
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. engine swap question - from Hunt Hodgetts
Top
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 19:02:01 -0800 (PST) From: Hunt Hodgetts <hhodgetts@yahoo.com> Subject: engine swap question I'm looking at a 96 M3 with 150k miles. It probably needs a new engine. I have found two used engines with 50k each. One is from a 97 M3 and the other from a 99 M3. Would either engine be a clean swap? My mechanic warned that minor changes between model years such as different hose sizes & locations etc could make it a nightmare. I was wondering if anyone knows how easy it would be to swap engines from different year vehicles? Hunt __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more http://tax.yahoo.com
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Re: [E36M3] Koni SA -- when to adjust? - from Chris Teague
Top
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 19:26:01 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni SA -- when to adjust? > Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 21:03:02 -0500 > From: "Steven Hazard" <98m3@attbi.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni SA -- when to adjust? > > Chris, not only does Compression settings effect ride quality, it also makes > a huge difference in handling traits!!!!.... > > One to two clicks on the compression adjustment to a Koni DA yields huge > changes in slip angles and > a M3's feedback, and personality to the driver :-) You can dial in > oversteer, or understeer at will, with DA's....as long as you have also done > a good spring upgrade.... I will second that. My car got much faster at the autox when I switched from Koni SA's to Koni DA's, and it's easy to dial in the handling and feel of the car. Chris 97 M3/4
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Koni SA adjustment issue - from KLchmn@aol.com
Top
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 23:06:40 EST From: KLchmn@aol.com Subject: Koni SA adjustment issue I don't claim to be an expert and I don't play one on TV, but adjusting rebound only can make your car handle *better*, without jacking the springs down, etc. One of the ways to get some oversteer is to overdamp your rear shocks (i.e., crank in some rebound damping). A great book you should buy if you track or autocross your car is Carroll Smith's "Engineer in Your Pocket -- A Practical Guide to Tuning the Race Car Chassis and Suspension." It has a cause and effect section that will help you understand what effects what. It also has a problem -- possible solution section. Some things don't apply to our cars very well, but most of the obvious spring/shock/sway bar things do. Cheers, Kirk Lachman Sin City Chapter '95 M3 #21 I-stock